2088 replies to this topic

[Heath]

I'm very flattered, and even more sorry that I don't work faster.

[76lxhatch]

I'm very flattered, and even more sorry that I don't work faster.

Do as we say, not as we do ;-)

[Heath]

I'd turn into a muscle man if I had to stretch metal every day hahaha

 

Edited by Heath, 28 June 2016 - 10:34 PM.

[turbo76lx]

See easy, I told you just use a big hammer and hit it.

[SHEEL]

Mint...bit of stoneguard over that and nobody would know!

 

and don't worry, your time between updates is pretty good I reckon...

[Heath]

Every kg in that box is going to hurt this vehicle hahaha. I hope it ain't as bulky as you describe!
 
My mate at the factory with the MIG has selfishly moved out and forced me to buy my own haha. I went and picked up a new Unimig to make a nice pair with the TIG but forgot to see if wire was included, so I had to return to cutting stuff rather than 'gluing stuff' together (lol).
 
There were some subtle indicators that the driver's side lower guard was not in as great a shape as the paint suggested. Decided to do some further investigation.





2nd repair in this car where sheet metal has just been overlapped and welded... I think I can do a bit better than that.

 

Edited by Heath, 29 June 2016 - 10:42 PM.

[ben23]

Great progress mate I wish I could say the same haha!

[Heath]

Ah well enough talking about it lol, your car won't build itself

The new machine:


The cute couple:


Tack, tap, tack, tap:


Brrzzzz, brrrzzz:


Grrrrzzzzgrrgrgzrrrrzzz:


Rinse and repeat:



Trimmed the lip out of the arch of the flares to get the tyre sitting nice and flush which is what I'll aim for on the car.


If you don't like this then... you're clearly not me because I reckon it looks amazing hahaha

Edited by Heath, 04 July 2016 - 10:37 PM.

[Heath]

Behind the bit of panel at the bottom of the guard that I cut out earlier in the week, there was rust right at the front (back of the driver's side wheel arch) where it tapered down to a little gap. Ground it out with a die grinder as access is pretty difficult.


Got some panel steel and put a fold in it, then stuck it on a curve dolly and stretched on one side of the bend to maker a curved edge:


Planished it out:


Cut it to shape:


Solid steel again:


Gave the back of it a little tidy up while the hole is still open:


And I had to make the big bit which was considerably more tricky. Cut a cardboard template and traced it onto some steel, got no workbench at the moment (lol) thankfully there's some angle on this shelving unit to help me make a bend:


Very very rough fit, gotta start somewhere:


Lots of grinding and massaging, then marked out the line where the arch starts... although it'll all be hidden by the flare anyway.


Quick planish to grow it into the arch shape.


Pretty neat fit:

[SHEEL]

I held my laptop upside down to look at the full car shots....

 

i got aroused

[bullitA9X]

Nice work heath looking kills mate hey you going to the torana nationals...

[myss427]

Nice work heath looking kills mate hey you going to the torana nationals...

 

Will you be bringing your two Toranas? Would be great to see them.

[bullitA9X]

Will you be bringing your two Toranas? Would be great to see them.

yeah mate definitely the a9x and if all goes well the hatch look forward to meeting ya mate....

[myss427]

Cool!

[cameron]

Trimmed the lip out of the arch of the flares to get the tyre sitting nice and flush which is what I'll aim for on the car.


If you don't like this then... you're clearly not me because I reckon it looks amazing hahaha

 

 

 

 

How much wheel travel do you have before the tyre hits the cut away 1/4 panel edge that is under the flare?

 

Cameron

[Heath]

Cheers guys. I don't think I'll make it to the Torana nats as I think I'm doing an alpine drive in the Porsche that weekend. If anything changes, count me in obviously.

[Heath]

The TIG is an AC/DC 200A, and the MIG is just a 175A. Both are fine for anything you'd do on a car, but by MIG standards it ain't a big one.

How much wheel travel do you have before the tyre hits the cut away 1/4 panel edge that is under the flare?

Cameron, I'm not sure how you want me to quantify this? I just got a fat arse tyre and made sure I could stick it up nice and high. Obviously it'll touch the guard at some point and I'll probably extend the bump stops to prevent that from happening. Wheel travel will be determined by the difference between that point, and the final ride height, which is unknown.

[Bigfella237]

Looking good H... just out of interest (assuming those tyres are pretty much where they're gonna sit), what's your rear track measurement gonna be?

 

(If you know where the exact centre of the car is, you could just measure from there to the centre of the tyre and double it?)

 

And have you decided on a (hub-to-hub) diff width yet?

[Statler]

Coming along nicely.

[Heath]

Assuming the diff kit has been ordered correctly, it'll be about 56" WMS to WMS, so not a super short diff... not familiar with floater ends and stuff and thought I'd stay a bit conservative for more wheel options without needing -50 offset to fill the flares lol, and to also make sure I had plenty of room to fit brakes in (although I've since decided to move the shock anyway)

 

Hadn't had a reason to measure the track, but yes I could get a measurement of that with the tyre in there. I'd expect it would be very similar to most flared cars.