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Holley ls retro sump


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#51 rexy

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 02:53 PM

The structural oil pan is often misunderstood. What GM said is that the bolting the transmission to the oil pan increases the structural integrity of the powertrain. I guess it would also add a little to the strength of the block however if you were serious about strengthening the block then your would probably fit a steel girdle on the mains not a cast aluminium oil pan. The deeper skirt on the LS block with cross bolt mains already increases the strength of the bottom end compared to a SBC block.
 
This quote is discussing the V6 oil pan but I read a similar quote for the LS1 although I can't find it at the momement.
 

 
http://gmauthority.c...gm-engines/lfx/
 
 
It is also mentioned here.
http://www.hotrodlan...nstallation.htm
 
 

 
 
The older transmissions are only bolted to the block so the bolts cover a little over 180°. The LS transmissions are bolted to the block and the oil pan giving 360°. The drivetrain is less likely to flex with 360° bolts than it is with 180° bolts. If you are not running a LS transmission then it doesn't matter what pan you use. If you are running a LS transmission with a aftermarket pan then you are no worse off than someone running a SBC. You could run a brace from the block to the bottom transmission holes if you wanted additional strength.
 
 
000042_Turbo_350_LVL_2-1.jpg000060_4L65E_LVL_3.jpg
 
 
 
 
 
There is baffling in the Mast oil pan but no trap doors. From memory the baffling is similar to the Camaro pan. I can take a picture tonight. I plan to run an Accusump as insurance against oil surge and to prime the engine before starting.


I wouldn't be too fussed about pan baffling and the extra bolt hole. I have run a cut up remodelled original commodore sump on the LS1 in the LJ for many years now without issue. I also run a remote filter setup and the total capacity with filter is 6.5 litres. Oil pressure is always rock steady despite the flogging it receives.
It's a low 11 second car so the oil gets plenty of chance to move around.
I think the potential for drivetrain instability is not relevant with respect to the engine/trans interface with a remodelled or aftermarket pan.

#52 DanWA

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 04:05 PM

So now that i am re-motivated to finish mine Andy, reckon i should shell out fort a Mast Sump or AutoKraft?

 

Bit of a bummer as i didn't notice this and just bought a new moroso pickup and sump gasket ha ha

 

Oversteer: I am definately considering the Mast sump now to... see what Andy's thoughts are, i'm up for new pipes or modifying my custom pipes already and i have a fresh set of tuff mounts to sit engine slightly higher and slightly more forward


Edited by DanWA, 11 March 2014 - 04:13 PM.


#53 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 09:25 PM

What is the problem with the Moroso oil pan? 

 

The AutoKraft dimensions are similar to the Moroso.



#54 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 09:40 PM

Agree with Andy, Dan. I've got no issues with the Moroso and since you've already got it and the remote filter setup it's a good idea to run it mate.

#55 DanWA

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 10:07 PM

I'm just sick of having to do shit again and again so would take the hit for another sump to make it come together easier haha

 

Will just roll with the moroso then



#56 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 12 March 2014 - 01:17 AM

Moroso one has worked fine for me as well..

#57 Growla

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Posted 12 March 2014 - 08:26 AM

The mast motorsport is the shallowest at the front of them all. But it doesn't have any holes for the gearbox to connect to at the lowest point. I used the Camaro sump and recessed the cross member to suit with CAE engine mounts.






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