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#26 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 01:53 AM

Yep but i may not need to go that deep, i might find out tomorrow

#27 TerrA LX

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 02:00 AM

good luck, champion effort. :rockon:



if you dont need much, maybe you can notch it then sandwich a plate each side.

Edited by ALX76, 04 July 2006 - 02:09 AM.


#28 makka

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 11:32 AM

that rear notch will be the killer, the front one would be fine with a little plate to strengthen it. at least you have some room to strengthen that rear 1 above where you need to notch it.
You cant modify your rocker covers a little by any chance?

Edit: how deep do you need to take the notches into the rails?

Edited by makka, 04 July 2006 - 11:33 AM.


#29 _doucmyuc_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 12:05 PM

you do seem to have quite a predicament here :huh:

what made you go with the infinity motor?

maybe if you showed your engineer those pics get him to design a way in which he will allow you to strengthen the rails.

but im thinking already you may have to add an extra beam inside the rail welded in and also boxing the holes your cutting as well as the front shassi strengthening kit.

go throw all your ideas at the engineer as hes the one who has the final say.


i stil think your going to have some problems with the exhaust manifolds and heat to the bushes and mounts

#30 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 07:34 PM

that rear notch will be the killer, the front one would be fine with a little plate to strengthen it. at least you have some room to strengthen that rear 1 above where you need to notch it.
You cant modify your rocker covers a little by any chance?

Edit: how deep do you need to take the notches into the rails?

Approx 10mm deep each side
And i cant really mod the rocker covers i dont think. I dont think it will leave enough room anyway if i do.
Im leaning towards low mounted motor (there is a limit to this of course) and modifying the cross member to make room for the sump.
I will see soon

#31 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 09:18 PM

This was my original thought, that is to cut out this section on both sides, outwards direction (approx 15mm) then replace it with 3mm steel plate welded in. With some triangular gussetting on the outer side of the chassis rail. This will give me approx 25-30mm to play with.
I may throw this one at the engineer also, even thow he wasnt keen on it.

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Edited by Bart, 04 July 2006 - 09:21 PM.


#32 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 09:38 PM

This is where i got the idea of modifying the rails, as you can see these rails have been cut down/shaved back, the actual rail is narrower

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#33 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 09:43 PM

Still this all means shit if the engineer dosnt like it.

#34 TerrA LX

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 09:51 PM

i think youll find the rails in the blue torry have been reinfirced, not just shaven.

shave the rails and box them internally thru to the lower xmember point and beyond and u shouldnt have a problem. i know its overkill for your weight but it will be staunch.

#35 _LHoon_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:04 PM

Bart, have you considered a Lexus 4L?
Here's a few pics of my LJ which fits without chassis modifications.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#36 lakeside

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:14 PM

if you notice where the rail has been shaven, isn't the orig part of the rail. That firewall has been moved back on the BB. No rails in the cabin of a lc/lj

#37 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:16 PM

i think youll find the rails in the blue torry have been reinfirced, not just shaven.

shave the rails and box them internally thru to the lower xmember point and beyond and u shouldnt have a problem. i know its overkill for your weight but it will be staunch.

How do you mean box them internally??
The way i had thought was to weld 3mm plate all over the outside length of the front rails down to the gearbox member after shaving down the rails.
Is this what you meant??

#38 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:18 PM

Bart, have you considered a Lexus 4L?
Here's a few pics of my LJ which fits without chassis modifications.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

I have but i wanted to be different :rolleyes:
Nice fit though mate, nice work

#39 _dannylxss_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:21 PM

bart you are in quite a pickel i just rembered with my engineers you need at least 12mm space bettwen motor and rails and pipes to rails and steering shaft as well also allengineers are differnt too hope this helps

#40 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:23 PM

Thanks mate, if i shave the rails ill get 13-15mm approx

#41 TerrA LX

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:25 PM

slice open the whole side and stitch in box section, then weld the plate your talken about back over the job. engineer approved first of cause.

#42 Bart

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 10:30 PM

slice open the whole side and stitch in box section, then weld the plate your talken about back over the job. engineer approved first of cause.

Ok.
Slice open, weld in 2mm wall square tube inside? is this what is boxing section? then plate over that?
Sorry just to be clear.

#43 makka

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:42 AM

yes, basically thats what ALX is saying. so inside the chassis rail you will have RHS going along the rail

#44 TerrA LX

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 02:29 PM

yes. go to a fence fabricator or engineer shop who works with RHS and have them curve the box section to your rail conture. oviously you will need a template for this.
cross braces are also needed at the front (small, near rad) and another further back (see below)

note; you are going to loose a major crumple zone with this mod and suggest taking the RHS back as far as you can to link the rear suspension and cross brace at the gear box xmember, otherwise you may end up with a dash on your lap.

cheers.

Edited by ALX76, 05 July 2006 - 02:35 PM.


#45 Bart

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:35 PM

Basically i need RHS, 80mmx45-40mm, i dont think they do 45mm and cut down the sections where the rail goes smalller.
Basically the narrowest part of the original rail is 45mm and the tallest part is 80mm
I tried the engine in from the bottom and its way too low so realy the only way is the cut the rails.
Have to shoot of some emails to the engineers. Do you think i should draw up some designs to prestent it to them in a more profosional way, kind of help convince them to go along with the idea, perhaps talk to a chassis builder and go with there engineer??

Edited by Bart, 05 July 2006 - 09:36 PM.


#46 TerrA LX

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:43 PM

yeah that might help, cant hurt but at the end of the day you will need an engineer and do it HIS way, you know what i mean.

this motor have senitmental value to you?

#47 Bart

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:39 PM

Sentimental, maybe
I love a challenge i guess, the more i read about this motor the more i liked it over the years.
The motor is an engineering great i believe.

#48 _doucmyuc_

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:00 PM

Sentimental, maybe
I love a challenge i guess, the more i read about this motor the more i liked it over the years.
The motor is an engineering great i believe.

strong and realiable yes, potential hp yes, but out of the box their a touch sluggish.

However i have a neighbour who threw one in a hq or hz ute a few years back, ill ask him how he went baout htings for you

#49 Bart

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:17 PM

Engine too bloody high
This placing it over the car as normal

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Engine too bloody low
This is when i tried to go from under the car

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#50 Bart

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:50 PM

Chassis rail mod sketch
Dont laugh i got out my crayons lol
Hope it comes out clearly

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Edited by Bart, 05 July 2006 - 11:54 PM.





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