1102 replies to this topic

[Bigfella237]

That distributor pictured above is electronic ignition, it's the HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor from a blue motor (WB or Commodore), providing it works I'd be using that over a points dizzy any day, although it requires a different coil, leads and some re-wiring of the ignition circuit in a Torana.

 

It looks like only the bottom half of the cap that's broken and it looks like you're missing the top half of the cap, but I think those large caps hit the firewall in a Torana anyway? You can get a smaller cap and rotor for those distributors, from memory I think there was a ford HEI cap that fitted but wasn't as big as the Commodore one?

 

But honestly I wouldn't be taking on any new projects for now, just get it running with what you have and worry about upgrades later, unless there's some wrong with your current dizzy of course?

Edited by Bigfella237, 03 March 2017 - 06:04 PM.

[EunUCh]

you know what they say about the cat , had a look at a pollution WW stromy (253) , there is a vac. take off marked CAN on the carb. , i am thinking that there was a tube from CAN that led to PURGE on the canister ? (someone might be able to confirm or otherwise ?)

 

If this is so the then it is ported in a similar fashion as the vac. advance to the dizzy and only operates at part throttle and is fairly restricted by the drill hole sizes  used . It may well work ok connected to full vac. but if the idle speed is too high and there is not enough

adjustment left on the idle screw then i would look at just kinking that tube and see what happens to idle speed once fired up ?

[EunUCh]

That's ok ,  and its all a learning curve anyway where we just try and sort things out bit by bit

 

I think what i was trying to say that "if" the original pollution carb. had a line from the PURGE nipple on the charcoal canister to the CAN fitting on the carb. that was "ported", or probably more correctly said, "timed" with a small hole that the butterfly  exposed when at light throttle that those nasty petrol fumes that were "trapped' in the charcoal canister were "purged" or drawn off the canister under vac. and get burnt , and that introducing full vac. to the canister would be like a massive "air leak" ?

Yes ,the holley does not have too many "extras" in the way of vac. take offs hence the comment by another member that the holley

may be a small glitch but things can be overcome in various ways

 

dunno

[gtrboyy]

Ditch glass filter...when it's running you'll see fuel in plastic filter easily enough.

 

If I was doing it for first start up I'd use gerry can or 1 litre bottle(long hose off fuel pump)...that factory tank will need a good cleanout..bet ya smells like paint stripper & manky rusted water.

 

 

 

Ps Looks like that new rotor(xd falcon??) button is for small cap so it's probably hiding somewhere,check if points one fits (search on forum to be sure)

     Coil looks 6cyl hei,bolt it to the exposed bolt hole 4 inches behind 'firing order'

 

*Hose from vacuum tree to modulator should be ok...can check again later when it drives.

 

*starter motor looks like chunky earlier version,will be fine with cast headers...check that it works off the car then use it untill it dies,get proper factory bolts

 

Not keen on purge line like that...rather glue fake nozzle underneath aircleaner or carb for it.

Same with pcv hose off rocker cover goes to fitting underneath aircleaner...then VAC hose off canister to that.(My guess)

 

How's that for sensory overload haha

[Bigfella237]

 

I can't remember exactly but I think there's a twist to that PCV valve, I think the top port 'controls' when the lower port opens, or something like that?

 

Are you running the auto trans cooler lines to the radiator (is that even a radiator from an automatic car)?

 

Or are you using a dedicated transmission cooler? If so, you'll need to get your air con condenser mounted in front of the radiator first, then mount the cooler in front of that.

 

I would definitely install and test (or test and install) the starter motor before installing the exhaust, if you're gonna test it on the car, make sure you have engine oil and trans fluid before turning it over (do you even have a tailshaft in yet)?

 

Did you get the speedo cable in too? Did you happen to see what coloured speedo drive gear was inside the trans? If we know that, and your diff ratio and tyre size, we can tell you how accurate your speedo will read and which driven gear you need to fix it?

 

EDIT: I've been meaning to mention as well...

 

I'd be a little concerned with the way those heater hoses are angled too, there's a good chance you will get two pockets of air trapped in those? Is there any way you can turn them clockwise so they run flat or is that second bend moulded into them?

 

Technically the radiator cap is supposed to be the highest point in the cooling system so any air pockets find their way there and are expelled automatically when the system builds pressure, but I don't know if the flow through those heater hoses would be enough to push such a big air bubble through?

Edited by Bigfella237, 04 March 2017 - 06:06 AM.

[Bigfella237]

Errgghh, I'm just gonna pick a few things from that list...

 

1. may as well leave that glass fuel filter where it is for the initial start up, the more filters the better for now!

 

2a. looks like you just have a standard mechanical fuel pump it won't pump unless the engine is running.

 

2b. the only way to really clean a fuel tank is to remove it so you can slosh it around and drain every last drop (the fuel pickup never gets the last little bit on the bottom of the tank and that's where any water/rust/crud/etc. will be). You can get fuel tank "treatments" that leave a coating on the inside of the tank but you still have to clean it properly first.

 

If you're not going to pull the tank out, then you can put some fresh fuel in, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and siphon it through the line to the front of the car yourself (try not to swallow too much), in this case, include a couple of litres of mentholated spirits in your first flushes (it absorbs water).

 

5. the modulator is the round thing on the back of the transmission that the vacuum line plugs into

 

7. you already have the PURGE line connected so leave it now until the engine runs, you can test whether it draws too much vacuum then.

 

8. no point running two PCV valves, the hose to the second rocker cover (which you don't have a hole for BTW) is just an open hose which runs into the air cleaner, it just vents crankcase fumes into the air cleaner instead of the atmosphere... more pollution crap that you don't really need.

 

10. radiators from automatic cars have an extra tube inside the lower tank (you will see two 1/4" flare nut fittings on the back of the lower tank), the oil lines from the trans goes into one end and out the other just to cool the fluid, or you can buy a separate trans fluid cooler, like a mini radiator.

 

You can simply leave those fittings on the radiator open (disconnected) if not used, the pipe inside the radiator is sealed off from the coolant.

 

12. tailshaft... who knows! All the yokes on the back of Trimatics are the same, but I think you said this car was originally a 4 cylinder, which I think have the same diff yokes as 6 cylinders? But V8's have a bigger diff yoke and different length tailshafts.

 

All you can do is crawl under there and see if it fits I guess, if it's the right yoke it will probably be the wrong length and vice versa.

 

Do you know what diff ratio is in the car now (if it's the original diff, tell us what the "RR AXLE" code is on the body plate (passenger's side engine bay))?

[Bigfella237]

"GV4" is a 3.36:1 diff ratio

 

What size are your rear tyres (they look something like 245/60R14)?

[Bigfella237]

Okay some "fun with numbers":

 

Tyre Size = 245/60R14
Tyre Revolutions = 490 per km
Diff Ratio = 3.36 : 1
5000 RPM in 1st Gear (2.31 : 1) = 79 km/h
5000 RPM in 2nd Gear (1.46 : 1) = 125 km/h
5000 RPM in 3rd Gear (1.00 : 1) = 182 km/h
5000 RPM in Rev Gear (1.85 : 1) = 98 km/h

 

This does not account for any torque converter slippage. I can change the RPM figure above if you want?

 

Tyre Size = 245/60R14
Tyre Revolutions = 490 per km
Gear Ratio = 1.00 : 1 (drive / third gear)
Diff Ratio = 3.36 : 1
40 km/h = 1098 RPM
60 km/h = 1646 RPM
80 km/h = 2195 RPM
100 km/h = 2744 RPM
120 km/h = 3293 RPM
140 km/h = 3842 RPM
160 km/h = 4390 RPM
200 km/h = 5488 RPM
 

So your 3.36 diff will be good fun around town, but probably annoying if you plan to spend any length of time at highway speeds?

 

As far as your speedo goes, we know you have a red driven gear (on the end of the cable) so

 

IF you have a red drive gear (inside the trans) then your speedo will read very slow (reading 80.1km/h at 100)

IF you have a white drive gear then your speedo will read a little slow (reading 91.6km/h at 100)

IF you have a blue drive gear then your speedo will read a little fast (reading 103km/h at 100)

IF you have a yellow drive gear then your speedo will read a lot fast (reading 114.4km/h at 100)

 

Once you confirm the colour of the drive gear we can change the gear on the cable to fine tune the speedo reading, for example IF you have the white drive gear, you will need to change the driven gear (on the cable) to a green (21 tooth) gear, which will give you a speedo reading of 100.3 at 100

 

You can either hunt around for one second hand or hit up Rare Spares for replacements, for example:

 

http://www.rarespare...cription=SG1008

 

P.S. Don't even try that tailshaft into the transmission without first scouring all the rust off that slip yoke, otherwise you'll damage the rear seal and possibly the bush in the extension housing!

Edited by Bigfella237, 04 March 2017 - 11:58 AM.

[Bigfella237]

thought a "60" wall was a set "60" wall.

but no.   is a heaps taller/bigger diameter tyre

 

The "60" is a percentage of the width, so a 245/60R14 tyre is 245mm wide and has a (60% of 245 = ) 147mm high sidewall

 

A 225/60R14 is 225mm wide and has a (60% of 225 = ) 135mm high sidewall (12mm less)

 

Remember that you have sidewall at the top as well as the bottom so the overall height of the rears would be 24mm (or roughly 1 inch) bigger

[EunUCh]

You might find that with the lectronic dizzy  it looks like once the "lower" bit that is broken is taken off the dizzy it might reveal that the dizzy will take a standard cap and rotor ? , i think the bit in between was only an adapter to take a bigger cap which was supposed to have had something to do with genetic engineering in the spark school that was an attempt to space out the posts that led to the leads and plugs to stop "cross fire" within the cap ?

 

Maybe take the broken bit off and put up a picture so that we might be able to see what can be done , if it is just a stock body then it is a hell of a lot easier just to put on a stock cap and rotor and retain the lectronic side of things , it won't arc over , i put the guts of one of those electronic setups into a points body dizzy and had no trouble , just be careful with the stuff inside the dizzy , there are some very fine wires on the coil , when i say fine i mean like about .04mm and they can be damaged easily and i am not sure if you can still get the pick up coil anymore ?

[grumpy xu1]

By memory the dissy cap & rotor button is 351 Cleveland xd falcon. Repco stock them, can't remember the part numbers & i think when running the 2 breathers that the pcv went from the passenger side rocker cover to the back of the carby, under throttle plate & the drivers side rocker cover vented to under the air cleaner base. The vacuum tee has the brake booster vacuum pipe & the line to the vacuum modulator on the transmission ( make sure it's clean inside the tee or the trimatic changes are pretty ordinary ) coils are pretty cheap so I'd buy a new 1, the vs v8 starter is very easy to fit in with extractors anyway so that would be what I'd use when you need to replace it. Personally I'd run a separate Trans cooler with a good gap to the air con condenser, pwr coolers are stocked at repco too & cheap enough. 3.36 should be fine in that i have run 3.9 on 50 series tyres on the highway before with a trimatic, got of the line quick though