242 replies to this topic

[grumpy xu1]

Oh & the bungs in the boot floor & their screws should be zinc plated too Kev, at least that's a cheap fix Gary.

[Kevrev]

Good tip Gary, I'll rip the bungs out today and have them plated. Having an RDO today, will pick up the rear window filler panel and have a crack at welding it in.

Then I'll have a better look at the boot floor, I want to finish the rear window before tackling anything else. Will also need some more MIG gas, used a whole E size bottle on the project so far!

 

 

[Kevrev]

I also test fitted the new tail light surrounds, along with some NOS lenses I bought at Ballarat swap meet some time ago.

Fitted a NOS original decal to petrol cap. I know it's all coming off again, it helps with the motivation though to see some shiny bits!

 

Attached Files

•  Rear panel.jpg   231.81K   4 downloads
•  RH Tail light.jpg   214.48K   4 downloads
•  LH Tail light.jpg   212.04K   5 downloads

Edited by Kevrev, 11 October 2016 - 08:03 AM.

[jd lj]

Kev,
The radiator with the blank shroud is the one that you want to use for your car. The shroud should have a small hole on the side closest to the radiator cap which allows any spilt coolant to drain away. Instead of having numbers on the shroud there should be a number stamped on the passenger side of the top tank, possibly "K3" or "L3" in your case. If not next time the radiator is pulled apart this date code can be replicated by hand if necessary, it looks like you've got the skills to do it.
I've been told by a reliable source that after 1/4/1973 that all 202 LJ's received the xu-1 radiator and should therefore have a LN decal next to the top hose inlet instead of a LE decal which early 202 Lj's would have had.
It's good to see a LJ GTR which isn't going to be a xu-1 replica. Not enough of them are kept in gtr spec in my opinion.

I've been informed by a fellow forum member that my previous information about Lj gtr's and 202 Lj's being fitted with xu-1 radiators after 1/4/73 is not correct and this was only an option. So since I wasn't around at the time and have now been told different opinions by different people may I suggest that people do further research of their own and make their own decisions either way.

Kev, sorry for sidetracking your thread, keep up the good work.

James

[S pack]

I've been informed by a fellow forum member that my previous information about Lj gtr's and 202 Lj's being fitted with xu-1 radiators after 1/4/73 is not correct and this was only an option. So since I wasn't around at the time and have now been told different opinions by different people may I suggest that people do further research of their own and make their own decisions either way.

Kev, sorry for sidetracking your thread, keep up the good work.

James

James, the LJ XU1 radiator was the Heavy duty radiator for all LJ 6cyl engines with manual transmission (excl XU1).

[grumpy xu1]

Hi Kev, nos lenses (the red one's are hard to get mate) & im sure we all know what you are doing by fitting things for some inspiration! It's a big job you're doing, so Totally understandable. You're going well mate ! Adelaide car Kev ? If so i see the masking in the boot edge doesn't look right. There's so many things to look for on these car's. If you're wanting to change things back to original, you could ask the guy's & girls what they can notice isn't & what you need ? I don't know if that's your intention? But if it is might make it easier for you! Gary.

[Ice]

Stupid question is there a reason you havnt stripped your car before any body work has been done
seems strange to me to leave bumpers etc etc etc on thats all
just curious

[grumpy xu1]

Hi Gene, it's called the snow bawl effect mate, you know do a good job sit to look at it, observe something else not quite right do that too, all of a sudden crap, i wasn't going to do that ! & thinking we're does this bit stop & that bit begin. Possibly a bit of oh great an extra 2 grand that i didn't even realize that id need to spend, nor do i know where im going to get it ect. We've all been down that road before mate. & Kev stated "quik tidy up" (now) turning into a restoration! Can seem daunting to see thing's keep progressing so fast. I think Kev is going well though. Gary.

[Kevrev]

Hi Gene, it's called the snow bawl effect mate, you know do a good job sit to look at it, observe something else not quite right do that too, all of a sudden crap, i wasn't going to do that ! & thinking we're does this bit stop & that bit begin. Possibly a bit of oh great an extra 2 grand that i didn't even realize that id need to spend, nor do i know where im going to get it ect. We've all been down that road before mate. & Kev stated "quik tidy up" (now) turning into a restoration! Can seem daunting to see thing's keep progressing so fast. I think Kev is going well though. Gary.

 

Hi Gary you're spot on, the job has just escalated as I've found more rust and repair work needed.

The rear bumper, tail lights and fuel tank are all off the car now. 

Thanks to you and and Warren for the encouragement, much appreciated.

By the way this is a Brisbane built car, it doesn't surprise me that the blackouts are wrong I'll be looking for some advice when it comes times to respray the car.

And James don't worry about sidetracking the thread, I'll be wanting to get the correct radiator in the car so any tips on what it should have are helpful

Anyway here's how the bootlid came out after the repairs. Tiny bit more filling and sanding needed but getting there

Attached Files

•  Boot repair 1.jpg   255.31K   4 downloads
•  Boot repair 2.jpg   260.02K   4 downloads
•  Boot repair 4.jpg   173.77K   3 downloads
•  Boot repair 3.jpg   204.31K   5 downloads

[Kevrev]

Also started on the rear window filler panel, looks to be a pretty good fit. I had to cut out more rust on the passenger side, cut and folded another piece of steel. 

Attached Files

•  Boot repair 5.jpg   147.39K   4 downloads
•  Rear window filler panel 1.jpg   183.95K   5 downloads
•  Rear window filler panel 2.jpg   152.95K   4 downloads
•  Rear window filler panel 3.jpg   200.74K   4 downloads

[Kevrev]

I also have to repair a section of parcel shelf on the passenger side just in front of the filler panel, yet more cutting/fabricating/welding.

I bought some cavity spray to coat inside the rear window panel, and some more weld thru zinc primer. 

Hopefully what I've brought is alright, panel beater supply place reckons it's good stuff.

[S pack]

G/day Kev

 

The correct part number radiator for LJ 3300 (M) is 2809857E.

The 2809857 radiator you have suits LC 2600 (M) and 2850 (M) .

[Kevrev]

Hi Dave,

 

Do you know what the E on the end of the part number means? Almost the same part number, maybe different number because of mounting holes? (just guessing)

The LJ radiators I've seen have 8 mounting holes to mount to the body, the LC one I have has only 4 holes

[S pack]

Hi Dave,

 

Do you know what the E on the end of the part number means? Almost the same part number, maybe different number because of mounting holes? (just guessing)

The LJ radiators I've seen have 8 mounting holes to mount to the body, the LC one I have has only 4 holes

No idea what the E stands for, sorry.

[Kevrev]

Hi Dave no probs, thanks anyway would be interesting to see if the E was stamped in the radiator after the part number also

[grumpy xu1]

Hi Kev, all good mate. I know the snow ball effect personally too bud, it happens with houses too ! You are doing a good job mate. & the masking is correct style in the boot jam, for a Brisbane car it looks. Gary.

[Kevrev]

Todays progress, attacked the dent in the rear quarter with the dent puller.

Used lots of weld on studs to spread the load, came out pretty well

Attached Files

•  rear qtr2.jpg   74.34K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr3.jpg   73.25K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr4.jpg   82.61K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr5.jpg   74.6K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr6.jpg   60.73K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr7.jpg   68.71K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr8.jpg   77.67K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr9.jpg   72.15K   4 downloads
•  rear qtr10.jpg   87.42K   4 downloads

[Kevrev]

Next was inside the boot, used Gary's tip to attack the sealer with a heat gun and scraper, then the wire brush.

Not good news, started pretty good around the fuel tank, but by the time I got to the wheel well and rear section near the bumper mount it started looking pretty ugly.

Could be worse I suppose, just needs more work than expected

Attached Files

•  Inside boot 4.jpg   68.76K   3 downloads
•  Inside boot 5.jpg   54.82K   3 downloads
•  Inside boot 6.jpg   57.12K   2 downloads
•  Inside boot 7.jpg   50.92K   2 downloads
•  Inside boot 8.jpg   54.88K   3 downloads

[grumpy xu1]

Hi Kev, I'll give you another tip mate, if you stretched the steel whilst doing the repair on the quarter. You simply use the pin puller for x amount (can't remember) seconds then place a damp rag around the pin to quench it cut the pin & sand the head off. Works a treat & concentrates the heat to a small area. We used to use it for this all the time, great tool to own. The boot looks pretty good compared to a lot of torana's honestly mate. It's strange some cars are rusty around the tank & great in the sills or floor pan ect & other's are stuffed sills first 10 inches & a great boot ? I'm sure that we don't look brand new at 43 either mate ? Probably cheaper to restore the torana though. What brand of 2k epoxy did you end up buying Kev. Gary. I see you have a ht as well 😎 very nice !

[grumpy xu1]

Hi Kev, I'll give you another tip mate, if you stretched the steel whilst doing the repair on the quarter. You simply use the pin puller for x amount (can't remember) seconds then place a damp rag around the pin to quench it cut the pin & sand the head off. Works a treat & concentrates the heat to a small area. We used to use it for this all the time, great tool to own. The boot looks pretty good compared to a lot of torana's honestly mate. It's strange some cars are rusty around the tank & great in the sills or floor pan ect & other's are stuffed sills first 10 inches & a great boot ? I'm sure that we don't look brand new at 43 either mate ? Probably cheaper to restore the torana though. What brand of 2k epoxy did you end up buying Kev. Gary. I see you have a ht as well 😎 very nice !

[Kevrev]

Hi Gary thanks for the tip on shrinking the metal, I'll give that a try. 

I'm going for the PPG 302 Multietch primer, decided against the 408 Epotec as it is only suitable for use under 2 pac paint, and I'll be painting the car in acrylic. My HT looks good in photos, (it was used in the Rare Spares ads) not perfect up close but at least it's together and driveable.

It will get a good tidy up one day, might end up as a "Quick fixup on HT Monaro turning into major resto" thread!

[S pack]

Hi Dave,

 

Do you know what the E on the end of the part number means? Almost the same part number, maybe different number because of mounting holes? (just guessing)

Hi Kev

 

Think I found what the E at the end of the radiator part number in the LJ parts catalogue stands for.

E = Exchange.

 

I was looking at info regarding GMP&A replacement radiator assemblies.

GMP&A had what they called Exchange Radiators available for most GMH petrol engine passenger vehicle models.

Although they were called Exchange radiators they were actually complete ready to bolt in brand new assemblies.

All the available exchange radiator part numbers are suffixed with an E.

Obviously these E suffixed part numbers were also printed in the parts catalogues.

Whether or not the E was also added to the end of the part number stamped into the fan guard is anyone's guess however that may only apply to the exchange radiators.

[liswar2]

Excellent effort, and the snow ball effect we can all relate to that ,
I agree with Cyan being 1 of the better colours as well but that's my Xu-1s colour as well ,
Soon you will be on the road and cruising,
Keep enjoying the journey thanks for the build thread.
Warren