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#351 Mitchyboy

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Posted 31 May 2020 - 05:04 PM

My big one used to trip the safety switch on the motor now and again, but I think it is more to do with the power supply out here in the sticks. It was measured here at 224 volts a few years ago.

It did it like 20 times and when it got hot it would throw the power then I would have to hit reset on the motor it would come back on straight away and then boom off again.
It was definetley getting too hot.
I think it's this unloader valve from what j have been reading.
I will ring pilot tomorrow and see how much a replacement is.
I may give it an oil change as well. It should run all day even if blasting

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#352 sibhs

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Posted 01 June 2020 - 11:01 AM

Hi Mitch,

Try another power source (different circuit on the house) and no extension cords.  Could be cutting out when a fridge cuts in etc..??

 

Good idea using the tipper for blasting, I've used my trailer to do the same. Love seeing garden panel and paint, great job.

 

What do you use to clean the KBS out of gun? I thought you could only use KBS thinner which gets expensive.

 

Marty



#353 Mitchyboy

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Posted 01 June 2020 - 12:24 PM



Hi Mitch,
Try another power source (different circuit on the house) and no extension cords. Could be cutting out when a fridge cuts in etc..??

Good idea using the tipper for blasting, I've used my trailer to do the same. Love seeing garden panel and paint, great job.

What do you use to clean the KBS out of gun? I thought you could only use KBS thinner which gets expensive.

Marty


Hey Marty
Thanks mate.
I was hooked into the garage power which cuts off the whole kitchen etc
I then ran a lead into one of the bedrooms and it still did it aswell.
The stupid house Im in has 3 x 20amp rcds for power. Mustn't be powerful enough.
I still think it could be that valve in the compressor I'm gunna pull it apart one arvo this week if I get a chance because I wanna sand blast all long weekend.

The KBS sprayed out really well.
I used the KBS thinners and I did thin it 10% before using it in the gun , i used a 1.4mm tip and it worked great.
I did clean the gun with the KBS thinners.
I do have some other spray gun cleaner which I will try to clean it with next time and see if it works.
The finish is much better than when I have brushed it on previously. Very happy with it.
But it's hard to see the second coat going over black at 4:45 pm hhaa.
There is some minor bubbling where I have obviously sprayed over twice wet which your not meant to do.
The compressor cutting out half way through the k frame didn't help me with the finish either.
My OCD has kicked in and i plan to rub back the top of the K frame with 220 and give 1 more nice coat in the sun.




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#354 Mitchyboy

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Posted 02 June 2020 - 08:52 AM

I started tearing down the front and rear brake calipers after work yesterday.
I got the bleeders off and lubricated up the pistons from both sides and they all popped out easily with compressed air. (My compressor started up perfect and didn't miss a beat, I think I over worked it on the weekend but surely it should run all day for the size of it?)
All Pistons are in good condition so i plan to just buy re seal kits. Front brakes more wear and tear than the back by far.
I wanna get them all apart for painting them up as they are 2 parts.
I got the rears apart by lubing up and punching the pins that hold the caliper together right through. A bit rusty but they came out in the end, heaps of wd40.
Can you purchase new pin sleeves for these? Mine aren't in good condition and I'd like to replace them (That's what I'm calling them)
Can't find them online anywhere.
I cannot get the front caliper apart. Is there a trick to this? I can't find any info on the net to help me either. The pins can't be punched through and i can't work out how to get them out.
Help.
Also should I pull the back off of the rear calipers for restoring? The part where it is all bolted up.

I've circled photos below so u can see what I'm on about a2de24c1a7dd6fb19bd82424c5ebcfe3.jpg94f3bb047d565f40b6b8ebc10610b5e9.jpg2d24bd64239a4f0db67bd584da95c676.jpg5411bce3def290806beac321917f9a2e.jpg7aa33c0dcb0be4f59b70031428124693.jpgfa736e33782980efbd3b1edad430d259.jpg2448cd1e0a9fe2302d9c4644b30efb8b.jpg

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#355 Rockoz

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Posted 02 June 2020 - 09:53 AM

You need to work out whether the compressor is tripping on overload or earth leakage.

An RCD only trips with an earth fault, whereas a circuit breaker trips on over current or overload.

Are your breakers combo RCD and current, aka RCBO in some terms.

If it is tripping a 20 amp circuit breaker there is real cause for concern.

But if you are running a stupidly long extension lead, then that could just be the problem on its own.

The compressor should be as close to the house wiring as possible.

Realistically it should be on its own circuit. Anything else on the circuit could be just what is needed for a trip.

An electric motor will have a start current way higher than its rated current. An unloader valve will help if its working.

 

Cheers

 

Rob


Edited by Rockoz, 02 June 2020 - 09:56 AM.


#356 Mitchyboy

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Posted 02 June 2020 - 02:25 PM

You need to work out whether the compressor is tripping on overload or earth leakage.
An RCD only trips with an earth fault, whereas a circuit breaker trips on over current or overload.
Are your breakers combo RCD and current, aka RCBO in some terms.
If it is tripping a 20 amp circuit breaker there is real cause for concern.
But if you are running a stupidly long extension lead, then that could just be the problem on its own.
The compressor should be as close to the house wiring as possible.
Realistically it should be on its own circuit. Anything else on the circuit could be just what is needed for a trip.
An electric motor will have a start current way higher than its rated current. An unloader valve will help if its working.

Cheers

Rob

I'll try another power point inside at the far end of the place.
No way the misso will let me have the compressor inside hahaa plus it needs to be outside so have to run a lead to it either way.
I have worked out the garage is on the same circuit as the kitchen which also has my large aquarium filters running from it also so inside the lead now goes to see if it's any better.
I'm going to give it an oil change as well see if that helps.
Starts up perfect yesterday so who knows.



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#357 Mitchyboy

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Posted 02 June 2020 - 02:28 PM

Got my goodies delivered today.
Working out all the brake stuff now.
Gonna try heat on them caliper pins this arvo got a hot tip
Found a major rebuild kit online aswell so plan to purchase that, only for the front though not the rear, still searching 55a80350dde14bfc44f2848eb34fe365.jpg

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#358 Mitchyboy

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Posted 02 June 2020 - 03:31 PM

OCD kicked in yesterday
Rubbed back the k frame with 220
Ready for the final coat with a freshly serviced compressor later in the week 0654cd245ebf23a85c2ac7ff48ee42ee.jpg42bfd67a195720624aa7ba593db391f0.jpg

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#359 ReplicarSLR

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Posted 02 June 2020 - 04:17 PM

You need to work out whether the compressor is tripping on overload or earth leakage.
An RCD only trips with an earth fault, whereas a circuit breaker trips on over current or overload.
Are your breakers combo RCD and current, aka RCBO in some terms.
If it is tripping a 20 amp circuit breaker there is real cause for concern.
But if you are running a stupidly long extension lead, then that could just be the problem on its own.
The compressor should be as close to the house wiring as possible.
Realistically it should be on its own circuit. Anything else on the circuit could be just what is needed for a trip.
An electric motor will have a start current way higher than its rated current. An unloader valve will help if its working.
 
Cheers
 
Rob


Agree with what Rob has said. My old shed was wired to the house circuits and I had exactly the same problems, was like that when I bought the house. When I built my new shed I had a mate who’s a sparkly wire the new shed properly. It has its own big dedicated feed from the house main board with a big main breaker etc, which then feeds a sub board with breakers, RCD’s etc for lights, normal power points in the shed also with a 20A outlet (with I believe has a slow breaker on it) for mig and compressor, stops it tripping with the initial spike in current draw. Mitch you may have to do the same, you won’t regret it, Ive never had a problem since my sparky mate did it properly.

#360 Mitchyboy

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Posted 02 June 2020 - 04:23 PM

Agree with what Rob has said. My old shed was wired to the house circuits and I had exactly the same problems, was like that when I bought the house. When I built my new shed I had a mate who’s a sparkly wire the new shed properly. It has its own big dedicated feed from the house main board with a big main breaker etc, which then feeds a sub board with breakers, RCD’s etc for lights, normal power points in the shed also with a 20A outlet (with I believe has a slow breaker on it) for mig and compressor, stops it tripping with the initial spike in current draw. Mitch you may have to do the same, you won’t regret it, Ive never had a problem since my sparky mate did it properly.

Sounds like the way the go
If only it wasn't a rental

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#361 Mitchyboy

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 07:35 PM

Cleaned up my axles with a wire brush.
Treated with rust blast then painted 4 light coats of clear engine enamel.
Diff dropped off to my Diff guy to recondition and install the new centre.
Sprayed painted with KBS rust seal the K frame again, trailing arms and upper control arms.
Much happier with finish on the K frame but I think I am going to buy a 1.8mm tip to paint KBS and primer with as not enough paint seems to come out of the 1.4.
Had to paint slow
Came up wellc199673ab2f32552d5816ce00f693cf5.jpg0adbf43b48347d95dc747e4d681059ef.jpg57c96e0fb52eb268823995389803b274.jpgae86f469b8e2d6c7ee2f9b7b1101936b.jpg3d5f797836e5e744ce41a4711544d608.jpgb646327f2d0ec33d27463b9ff4e29bef.jpgcc064f30a389446386336ea1d1d4fd18.jpg8f9ab65a8955acbcba0c8338d412b14b.jpg83d217f9d90dd98e9e6b25c0ae5b8cbe.jpg

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#362 Mitchyboy

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 07:50 PM

Also brought KBS high temp paint cans and primer for my brake calipers.
I went for cast iron grey colour.
Welded a new nut on arm for shock install on my lower control arms. Plus I welded up a slight crack and also fixed the rounded out sway bar holes on both.
KBS degreased and rust blasted them all ready for paint.
Boxed in my lower and upper trailing arms.
Stitch welded and KBS 3 stepped them as well753deb0b0f6d1b1d48ec7d98ca724e10.jpg066e1a0c2804326fc6e23e2f9937e927.jpgcd866c76a2b04a8b41343103309992c9.jpg94b39f4ea130cc43802acdaaaf9cf8ed.jpge23e5d4977f0c7c0533c93f4c9c6a860.jpgce7ad56f36216e3c1f547bb1d33d70d7.jpg

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 12 June 2020 - 07:54 PM.


#363 Mitchyboy

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 10:26 PM

First time I've sat in my Torana
Installed my back seats to see how they fit, all is good.
Screwed down the front bucket seats with the only 2 holes I have in the floor on both sides for the bench seat and thought I would direct mark the runners to the floor.
Didnt work as hoped a little bit of play so i had to measure them out.
With the back hole/mount that is already in my floor there is one nut accessible from the floor but underneath there is 2 x nuts.
Should I drill out to make the 2nd nut operational aswell?
Also should I have 2 nuts on each corner or just 1?
I've seen conflicting photos when researching.
I might just make my plates up with 2 nuts just to be safe.
Also is there measurements to follow for the install of the center the console?
The 2 x mounting plates
I have the rare spares mount kit, there is a little play with the console just curious before I stuff it up
Cheers 4f2010ad894f941139b6f9218c201d67.jpge033ec27d785b0d04045203c66878ddd.jpgc0dc3cbf0b1d6686a36df6ff2770ab2a.jpg2cf1af8d0027a1b949e5aaf29733e224.jpg3addd3bd46c6d5f9e301f646e680aedb.jpgbb2633325cc37f4f13cfb1c6f6ba83cc.jpg250bc2fe04887a93064547fa3a4856ce.jpge5e73646bdb9c2d443ec24d461a6df3f.jpg

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#364 Mitchyboy

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 10:28 PM

Also look how big the existing cut out is in my trans tunnel.
When I sit the centre console in place the hole is out the side.
Shoukd I weld this smaller with a plate or something?

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#365 Rockoz

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 12:30 PM

Here is what you need to do Mitch.

Wont take long, but you will need to reset clocks etc if they arent automatic or whatever.

 

Turn something on in each room of the house in each power point.

Turn off a breaker and see what rooms go out.

Plug your shed into the same circuit as the one that has zero or the least number of high draw appliances connected.

 

There is a chance that you dont actually have RCDs.

Lots of people think that any circuit breaker is a safety switch (RCD)

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#366 SLR202

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 03:50 PM

Hey mate, this is my 6/74 LH. Hope it helps 78fffe3a16f6f0d646f9aa5767b985d9.jpg

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#367 snuff1966

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 04:21 PM

Col's brake bits on Ebay is where I've bought kits to reco those rear calipers. Came with the sliders and pins as well as the pistons and seals. The handbrake part is a bit tricky, remember how it comes apart, just gotta take your time. Dave



#368 Mitchyboy

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Posted 18 June 2020 - 10:06 PM

Hey mate, this is my 6/74 LH. Hope it helps 78fffe3a16f6f0d646f9aa5767b985d9.jpg

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Cheers mate

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Col's brake bits on Ebay is where I've bought kits to reco those rear calipers. Came with the sliders and pins as well as the pistons and seals. The handbrake part is a bit tricky, remember how it comes apart, just gotta take your time. Dave

Cheers bud
I have rang a few brake shops and they have told me to leave the handbrake part alone.
I have found rebuild kits for the rears but not the fronts.
Having trouble getting the pins out of the fronts. Any ideas??
I've tried heat and all

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#369 Mitchyboy

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Posted 18 June 2020 - 10:10 PM

Here is what you need to do Mitch.
Wont take long, but you will need to reset clocks etc if they arent automatic or whatever.

Turn something on in each room of the house in each power point.
Turn off a breaker and see what rooms go out.
Plug your shed into the same circuit as the one that has zero or the least number of high draw appliances connected.

There is a chance that you dont actually have RCDs.
Lots of people think that any circuit breaker is a safety switch (RCD)

Cheers

Rob

They all Rcds yeah?
If I run a lead from a power point in the second bedroom i have no cutting out issues.
I think it's because of the fridge, aquarium filters etc
Cheers eec1a1db1e743df06d5ff85ce3e1f8eb.jpg

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#370 Mitchyboy

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Posted 19 June 2020 - 06:24 PM

Love getting deliveries
Dash complete - just needs painting
Happy Friday 0f561efb553d348a3b6b1b176c91bd99.jpgb9a056a923413fc772c9fbc67d2a3330.jpg3b514b0b06056ad155c16f28bcd5b8a3.jpg922bc9f50aca171df0b82c1c8639e83e.jpg

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#371 Com_VC

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Posted 19 June 2020 - 09:49 PM

I think you only have two rcds there?

 

One is the 40A in position 4 & 5 and the other 20A one is for your oven.



#372 Rockoz

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Posted 20 June 2020 - 03:25 PM

Tight arse way of doing RCD protection.

You have a single RCD protecting 3 power circuits.

Ideally they should have individual combos such as the oven one.

So what is tripping, the RCD in position 4,5 or the overcurrent circuit breakers in 6,7 and 8?

 

Cheers

 

Rob


Edited by Rockoz, 20 June 2020 - 03:25 PM.


#373 Mitchyboy

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Posted 20 June 2020 - 10:48 PM

Tight arse way of doing RCD protection.
You have a single RCD protecting 3 power circuits.
Ideally they should have individual combos such as the oven one.
So what is tripping, the RCD in position 4,5 or the overcurrent circuit breakers in 6,7 and 8?

Cheers

Rob

Number 7 runs the garage and the whole kitchen and that's the culprit.
I have been running a lead from a bedroom and i haven't had it flick the power yet.
I think it's just because of the fridge, aquarium etc. Plus welder and compressor then booom.
All been good so far
Fingers crossed
Cheers

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#374 rodomo

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Posted 20 June 2020 - 10:52 PM

Electric oven?



#375 Com_VC

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Posted 21 June 2020 - 10:24 AM

;Well you shouldn't be running the welder and compressor at the same time, that's just asking for trouble.  Fridges usually only have small motors, shouldn't draw a lot of current.






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