653 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

The Bathurst cars werent seam welded.

That is just one of the fallacies that keeps being perpetuated.

When they were walked down the line they got lots of extra spot welds.

When you see the A pillar for example of a race shell, you will understand what I mean.

They got a few extra MIG welds as well. The internal roof frame got a bit of attention in that regard.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Rockoz]

Double post

Edited by Rockoz, 30 August 2020 - 12:14 PM.

[Bigfella237]

 ~ Is there a difference? ~

The 6 cylinder booster (VH271) is only a single diaphragm, whereas the V8 booster (VH329) is a double diaphragm.

 

Would you believe I can't lay my hands on a clear photo right now, out of the thousands of photos in my files!

 

The VH329 is the straight-sided, straight pushrod, double diaphragm booster used on all V8 Toranas up until around 09/76 when they swapped to alloy calipers. Then there was a very short run of VH345 boosters, which had straight sides but bent pushrods, and they were replaced only a couple of months later with the newer style pressed-shell VH346 double diaphragm with the bent pushrod.

 

If your brake "expert" told you that yours suited an SLR5000 then he either was telling porkies or he ain't much of an expert!

[myss427]

The Bathurst cars werent seam welded.

That is just one of the fallacies that keeps being perpetuated.

When they were walked down the line they got lots of extra spot welds.

When you see the A pillar for example of a race shell, you will understand what I mean.

They got a few extra MIG welds as well. The internal roof frame got a bit of attention in that regard.

 

Cheers

 

They were close to seam welded, the chassis rails were stitch welded on the race shells, shock towers and floor panels, quite a bit extra welding when you really look over one. But yes they went overboard on the extra spot welds.

[Mitchyboy]

The 6 cylinder booster (VH271) is only a single diaphragm, whereas the V8 booster (VH329) is a double diaphragm.

Would you believe I can't lay my hands on a clear photo right now, out of the thousands of photos in my files!

The VH329 is the straight-sided, straight pushrod, double diaphragm booster used on all V8 Toranas up until around 09/76 when they swapped to alloy calipers. Then there was a very short run of VH345 boosters, which had straight sides but bent pushrods, and they were replaced only a couple of months later with the newer style pressed-shell VH346 double diaphragm with the bent pushrod.

If your brake "expert" told you that yours suited an SLR5000 then he either was telling porkies or he ain't much of an expert!

Mate he just told me if it was running like this on the car previously that it will be fine.
From all my research it just assists with pedal feel not help with the actually braking.
Hope it works OK.

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[Rockoz]

Funny that I didnt find any evidence of a lot of stitch welding on the race shell I had.

In fact I cant remember any on the rails at all.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[myss427]

The two GMP shells we have in Canberra do, they have the rails to wheel wells done, sides of inner engine bay panels near bonnet hinges, shock towers at rear and chassis rails. As well as all the extra spot welds. I remember Red A9X putting an image up years ago showing the engine bay ones, will have a hunt for it. 

[Shiney005]

It is always a good idea to stitch weld the forward control arm mounts. I have torn one off the floor before.

 

This is the HDT Negus hatch currently.

 IMG_0422small.jpg   315.29K   15 downloads

Edited by Shiney005, 01 September 2020 - 09:55 AM.

[LXCHEV]

Nothing wrong with a 6 cylinder brake booster. Plenty of V8’s (mine included) running them. Particularly handy for low vacuum engines.

[Bigfella237]

Only thing is, it's a bit like removing the panel seams from a hatchback C pillar, might be nothing wrong with it but you will get sick of all the comments from all the 'experts' who look at the car!

[Mitchyboy]

Had a go today and decided to do some more extra welding before I throw paint around.
Still have alot of sand coming out when we turn the car so decided to hold off.
Crazy how much is still coming out.
Whilst I welded and grinded all day Dad was blowing out and vacuming the car and its still coming out.
Welded up the shock towers, extra welds on the chassis rails in the engine bay.
Extra spot welds on the lower lip in the fire wall and welded up the entire lower lip aswell.
Trimmed back the drip lip in the engine bay as suggested by my engine builder for the distributer clearance. Had to weld this totally up after..
Welded up all holes in the engine bay, tidied up the fire wall, welded in patch panel for the rust repair on the on the remaining bonnet hinge side.
Hope to prep for paint next weekend, see how we go.
Plan is to paint the bottom and engine bay in one day, then the inside and the boot another day.
Cant wait to see some paint down

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Only 2 photos today

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[Mitchyboy]

Thinking to just spray the entire engine bay with KBS rust seal now due to all the welding on the fire wall etc.
Then I'll paint over that with the epoxy primer.


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[Mitchyboy]

Didnt do anything last weekend on the car as I was down the snow.
Yesterday we went over the entire car inside, bottom, engine bay and boot area and finished up all welds ready for paint.
Blew and vacuumed all extra sand that we could.
We paint stripped the 2 quarter panels so everything is in bare metal now.
KBS degreased again everywhere inside and out.
Dried the whole car and then KBS rust blasted the car for over 30mins spraying over 10litres of it into every nook and cranny and then hosing it all off, so no more sand.
All ready for the bottom and the inside to be painted.
Next weekend is the go weather permitting.


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[sibhs]

That's the way to do it.

Seems crazy spraying water over a bare medaled body but that KBS just works like magic.

That's another huge step there Mitch. I hope to do that to mine in the next 6 months.

 

Marty

[Mitchyboy]

That's the way to do it.
Seems crazy spraying water over a bare medaled body but that KBS just works like magic.
That's another huge step there Mitch. I hope to do that to mine in the next 6 months.

Marty

Cheers Marty
We are pumped to get some painting going now.
Need to get it down off of this rotisserie.

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[Heath]

Your progress astounds me, Mitch. You've certainly got some go!

 

Give yourself a pat on the back.

[Mitchyboy]

Your progress astounds me, Mitch. You've certainly got some go!

Give yourself a pat on the back.

Thanks Heath.
I am really pumped to get it down and rolling around.
I am buggered too by the way mate hahaa


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[Heath]

Haha, yes, I've certainly had those weekends just doing one job on the car from waking up to going to sleep and your body just hurts afterwards, lol.

 

Just want to echo what LXCHEV said and some of the others. In my opinion, the single diaphragm booster is a better thing than the dual diaphragm. It's the one you want. You'll get a bit better pedal feel with the single diaphragm, and the "V8" dual diaphragm booster provides no functional benefit, just a lighter pedal, which is obviously not helpful for the modern demographic of Torana owners. The V8 one is also kinda ugly, and heavier if you care about those things.

Of course, people often like to stroke their ego by showing off how much they know, and will be happy to annoy you by pointing out that they reckon your car "should" have a V8 booster. Many of these people will also tell you that it is offers a braking performance upgrade, because they're idiots. For these people, you need to have an explanation so that you can confidently tell them to f uck off. I have provided this above, and hope that it's helpful.

Edited by Heath, 22 September 2020 - 11:25 AM.

[Mitchyboy]

Haha, yes, I've certainly had those weekends just doing one job on the car from waking up to going to sleep and your body just hurts afterwards, lol.

Just want to echo what LXCHEV said and some of the others. In my opinion, the single diaphragm booster is a better thing than the dual diaphragm. It's the one you want. You'll get a bit better pedal feel with the single diaphragm, and the "V8" dual diaphragm booster provides no functional benefit, just a lighter pedal, which is obviously not helpful for the modern demographic of Torana owners. The V8 one is also kinda ugly, and heavier if you care about those things.

Of course, people often like to stroke their ego by showing off how much they know, and will be happy to annoy you by pointing out that they reckon your car "should" have a V8 booster. Many of these people will also tell you that it is offers a braking performance upgrade, because they're idiots. For these people, you need to have an explanation so that you can confidently tell them to f uck off. I have provided this above, and hope that it's helpful.

I did do alot of research before I dropped 600bucks on reconditioning my booster,master and valve and everything I read said the same about the pedal feel.
You make me feel good about my decision now dude
Cheers Heath haha

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[Ricky Bobby]

Fantastic work mate, we all know how much it takes to  " get it done "

[Mitchyboy]

Fantastic work mate, we all know how much it takes to " get it done "

Thanks mate
Trying to catch up to you legends

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[Mitchyboy]

Prepped and ready to go.
No 40km an hr winds are going to stop us from painting tomorrow!!!
Ferrai Charcoal tinted Raptor Liner coming up!!!!
Happy Friday

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 25 September 2020 - 07:02 PM.

[Mitchyboy]

Thats after 2 x coats of KBS rust seal!!
Big day tomorrow
Pumped!!!

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 25 September 2020 - 07:04 PM.

[jeffblanco]

Good luck, hope everything goes well.

 

Regards Mando.

[Mitchyboy]

Some shots from today.
2 x coats of rust seal applied first.
Touch dry between coats, roughly 2 hrs between coats.
Thats nasty stuff to spray


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