389 replies to this topic

[toryman76]

Many ways to remove the old spigot. A proper tool is always the best way. Alternatively pack it with grease or wet newspaper then using an old input shaft or similar put it in and tap it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure in behind it will push it out. Keep packing it every so often as it starts coming out to make sure the void is still fully packed. When putting the new one in. Freeze it over night. Make sure you take care when starting to tap the new one in. You need to make sure it starts nice and straight. I used a piece of wooden dowel to knock it in so as to not damage the bush. I would also take some reference measurements to ensure the bush is in the correct spot relative to the input shaft. If you drive it home too far than the input shaft isn't supported correctly. If you leave it proud you will have difficulty getting the box in.

[claysummers]

Have a look at the position of the old bush. Should be inset in the crank a bit, flush with bottom of chamfer. Measure input shaft chamfer relative to bell housing face.


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[Rockoz]

Many ways to remove the old spigot. A proper tool is always the best way. Alternatively pack it with grease or wet newspaper then using an old input shaft or similar put it in and tap it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure in behind it will push it out. Keep packing it every so often as it starts coming out to make sure the void is still fully packed. When putting the new one in. Freeze it over night. Make sure you take care when starting to tap the new one in. You need to make sure it starts nice and straight. I used a piece of wooden dowel to knock it in so as to not damage the bush. I would also take some reference measurements to ensure the bush is in the correct spot relative to the input shaft. If you drive it home too far than the input shaft isn't supported correctly. If you leave it proud you will have difficulty getting the box in.

 

Bread works really well getting the spigot bush out as well.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[hawk]

Little more progress finally.

Callipers are rebuilt, new pads and lines. Finally has working brakes.

picked up a new clutch, 4 speed shifter, flywheel machined and extractors are on order.

picked up some rear seatbelt bolts locally through lockdown and gotvthose fitted.

New ignition barrel fitted. The end of the column was a mess and had to be straightened.

High beam switch is stuck on and front lights need replacing.

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[hawk]

So I finally got my bellhousing and extractors.

Cleaned up the bellhousing, fitted the machined flywheel and new clutch.

When I got the bellhousing it came with a torana cable and I've got the torana pedal and bellhousing. It appears the cable is an inch or two too long and won't work. Am I missing something? is there a spacer? I don't remember having to use a spacer last time.

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[Potta]

Looking good mate, you'll be driving this before you know it.

[yel327]

From memory there is conical shaped cable support on the bellhousing end, do you have that?
Also is it the right clutch pedal?

[Heath]

2 inches seems a lot. I always used the "CC100" (flexdrive) clutch cables... and I may even have one spare but not on me currently (and not able to get it during lockdown). They never had a spacer fitted.

Some difference could be made up for by altering the position of the hook on the clutch pedal, but really a standard UC full cable pedal should be spot on with a CC100. 

I've seen people put big spacers on the firewall when using Commodore V8 clutch cables, but this should not be necessary on a correct set-up (even with a V8).

[toryman76]

2 inches seems a lot. I always used the "CC100" (flexdrive) clutch cables... and I may even have one spare but not on me currently (and not able to get it during lockdown). They never had a spacer fitted.

Some difference could be made up for by altering the position of the hook on the clutch pedal, but really a standard UC full cable pedal should be spot on with a CC100.

I've seen people put big spacers on the firewall when using Commodore V8 clutch cables, but this should not be necessary on a correct set-up (even with a V8).

I have the UC cable in my LX with V8 and modified pedal hook (just raised up from UC 6cyl position). Seems to work fine. No spacers. But as mentioned there is a conical bush that goes at the end of the cable at the bellhousing.

[UCSLE]

From memory there is conical shaped cable support on the bellhousing end, do you have that?
Also is it the right clutch pedal?

only V8s had that , the 6cyl bellhousing didn't need it .

[yel327]

That’s right, I forgot it was going back to a 6cyl.

[hawk]

Progress has still been happening although very slowly as I'm waiting for parts to arrive still.

Clutch, gearbox and shifter are all in. Ended up buying a rares shifter. The gearbox is still an unknown so it'll be interesting to see if its any good.

Tailshaft has new uni joints and is fitted.

Waiting for a heavy duty clutch cable from dellow. been waiting for 2 weeks and looks like it may take another week.

Fitted the extractors, new carb and new manifold. extractors are a tight fit. Got it running and idling finally.

So still to finish:

replace the heater core and hook it up.
replace the indicator stalk.
replace the reverse switch and wire it.
Fix engine bay wiring
reconnect washer bottle.
new headlights and parkers.
fit and setup the clutch cable.
gearbox oil.
exhaust.
Wheel alignment.
wiper blades.
Shifter boot.
Correct clutch dust cover (if anyone has one to suit cable bellhousing please pm me)

And I guess anything else that comes up.

One the clutch cable comes and I fill up the gearbox oil it'll be ready for a short test drive to check over the gearbox.

[LXCHEV]

It wouldn't be a Torana if it didn't have tight extractor fitment - and that's what makes Torana owners so resilient!

 

Awesome to see the "to-do" list is shrinking - time to get excited.

[hawk]

Well the to do list is getting smaller all the time.

So still to finish:

replace the heater core and hook it up. Purchased and not fitted
replace the indicator stalk. purchased and not fitted
replace the reverse switch and wire it. reverse switch replaced, yet to be wired
Fix engine bay wiring
reconnect washer bottle.
new headlights and parkers.
fit and setup the clutch cable. Done.
gearbox oil. Done
exhaust.
Wheel alignment.
wiper blades.
Shifter boot.
Correct clutch dust cover, purchased and fitted


The Rare spares 4 speed shifter broke a gate before the car even moved and the dellow clutch cable was the wrong length. I sourced the correct second hand parts and changed them over.

Then it finally moved under its own power for the first time in roughly 12 months.

Still a lot of bugs to iron out. I can't get it to idle correctly.

I have replaced the carb, manifold, points, plugs and leads. I shifted the dizzy a tooth to get it in the right spot. Firing order is correct.

I adjusted the float level and mixture.

I think the float level needs a little more adjustment.

It jist doesn't want to run right no matter how I set it up. seems to be missing on a couple of cylinders at lower rpm or if I can get it to idle it splutters to the point of stalling then the rpm rises, drops again then dies.

pretty much at the point of dropping it off to a mechanic to get it sorted out. Not what I would prefer but seems necessary.

[LHSL]

I would start with a compression test first.
Check for air leaks from hoses and intake manifold.
Change distributor and coil with a set you know are working.
Good luck with it I doubt you will find a mechanic with more knowledge than yourself.

Edited by LHSL, 29 October 2021 - 01:38 PM.

[hawk]

Thanks LHSL, I may just buy a manifold,350 holley and electronic distributor.

I adjusted the float level a bit more, resealed the base of the carb and checked that the idle jet is clear. Slightly better although still not great. Took it to the end of the street and back yesterday and at speed it seems to run well. Just wanted to spin one of the rears halfway back up the hill.

Anyway, Front and rear lights are all working now. Wired in the reverse switch, extended the washer bottle loom and added a kill switch (yet to be mounted)

Everything now works except the heater as I still haven't fitted the new heater core.

Current list to complete stands as:

Fit and plumb the new heater core.
get a universal shift boot and fit it then refit the centre console.
Wheel alignment.
Exhaust.
Tune.
Brakes probably need another bleed.

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[Rockoz]

Not sure if it is the same inlet manifold, but when I fitted extractors to a 202 in a HZ, one of the bolt holes from the hot box between manifolds goes right into the inlet tract.

Had similar issues to what you describe.

A bolt with a bit of silicone on it screwed in fixed the problem.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

I fitted extractors and 2 inch sports system to a HX 202 years ago. Ran lean down low and needed to be rejetted. They were set up to run lean from factory to comply with ADR 27A. The exhaust improved flow yo th sd extent they were just too lean. I took it to west torrens dyno tuners in Adelaide.

early Holden nut

[neglectedtorana]

You could spray some Aerostart, WD40 or carby cleaner around the manifold while it is running to check for leaks,

[rodomo]

EGR too could be a problem

[claysummers]

Blanking plate the solution


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[hawk]

Thanks heaps guys, it's all sorted. It was one of the bolt holes.

[RIM-010]

Ticking boxes mate! Cruising in no time.

[hawk]

Wheel alignment is done.
About 2.5 degrees of castor
1.75 degrees camber.

that was about as much as it would go. Passengers side where the most damage to the rails was it where it was the furthest out.

Bought a rares lower shift boot and fitted that.
I think the box may need a bit more adjustment or maybe the clutch cable.

Still needs a bit more of a tune a lot of pops out the exhaust when decellerating. More than usual anyway.

Lights are playing up, I got told it may be because of the filament type in the parkers or brake lights. any suggestions?

Anyway, absolutely stoked with how its looking and felt awesome to be out for a drive in a Torana again.

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[rodomo]

Bad earth is the usual culprit on tail lights playing up.

Air leaks into the exhaust is the usual suspect of pops n bang on deceleration.

 

Getting there!