389 replies to this topic

[yel327]

350 SBC and Supra 5spd:

http://www.gumtree.c...&utm_source=sms

[hawk]

Wrong state sadly haha. I may have a 308 lined up for a reasonable price with new rings, bearings and VN heads.

Picked up a V8 radiator, alternator and bracket and engine mounts recently. Also have high energy sump and extractors lined up too.

The mounts on the 31 diff are done. Just need to pick the housing up.

Due to a surgery last week I still can't drive to pick it up. Probably be out of action for at least another couple of weeks.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Oh dear, what did the doctor stitch you up for?

[hawk]

Long story short. Had my Galbladder out late last year. After the recommended recovery time I went back to gym and popped a hernia at the incision. So this was to fix the incisional hernia.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Hate to state the obvious, but whatever you did at the gym, do a LOT less next time.

[hawk]

Well while I've been out of action, I have amassed most parts I need for the V8 conversion.

Still need a few things:
Clutch
flywheel
starter
hoses
modify the 4 speed for v8
etc.

Plan is to run the motor essentially as is.
It has a mild cam, VN heads with 600 holley.

It it worth changing it cack to mechanical fuel pump or should I just run an inline holley pump?

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[yel327]

First step. Find a bin and throw the Holley in it. Buy a complete Quadrajet off a 308 or 304 and get it rebuilt. Won't look back.

[neglectedtorana]

Hi Steve,

 

Good shopping, before you fit it check the dip stick height is where you want it. Someone else will need to advise the height for a 308, I did my LS1 dip stick to match the original by measuring off the windage tray.

Hope you are mended soon so you can get back to progressing on the Torana

 

Cheers, Tom

[Heath]

Nice little package coming together. 

 

I would recommend adding a trap door box in that new sump, like I did, as I know you'll want to do some motorsport. You may even want to consider making the sump a little larger in capacity while you're at it (I will be modifying the hell out of mine next time the motor is out)

 

It looks like the design of those Pro Flow stainless extractors has changed a bit since I bought mine. They've changed the flanges (they were a real problem) and copied my pipe-transition modification and now they're doing it from the factory! Haha

[hawk]

Thanks guys,

Yel the Holley is staying for now for the sake of my wallet. The guy I bought it off said it was probably a bit small for the motor and the vac secondaries are pretty average.

Heath, I'm not sure where to start on the sump, I'll have a bit more of a look at it tomorrow when I get the engine on the stand. The proflow extractors are second hand although only meant to have been test fitted. Maybe they were modified after purchase?

Overall it's a pretty budget setup.
2k for the motor
$500 for the engine mounts, radiator and alternator with torana bracket.
$550 for the sump, extractors and dipstick.
$300 for the cable bellhousing with fork.

Been quoted $450 to re-drill to trimatic pattern.
Quoted $500 to supply and fit a V8 input shaft on the 4 speed.

In other news the recovery is going well and I can do most things again, doctors still want me to take it easy for a few more weeks.

With a house move more than likely in the next few months the car will be on the back burner for a while.

I'm still contemplating what to do with the diff. Not sure if it's worth getting it powder coated or jist leaving it with the rattle can black the diff shop put on it. Being an R31 diff, what diff gears will work out of which cars?
I really need a different ratio somewhere around the 3.0 to 3.3 mark. Might just weld the open centre to save a bit of money for now and get it in the car sooner.

I have pretty much decided the way I want to go with the car and some may not like it. I want to flare it and not run the standard style front spoiler. In my opinion the aftermarket UC spoilers look like crap. I will be making up something custom and a little different. It will be bolt on so if it doesn't work out I can always remove it.

I won't be running a reverse cowl scoop either as they don't suit the UC bonnet lines and have something more 70's/ 80's style for that.

Wheel wise, I've considered going wider barrels on the simmons although I'm tempted to get a set of superlites in 15's or 16's

The car will overall stay rough with anything added just being paint matched.

Edited by hawk, 26 May 2023 - 09:35 PM.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Whatever you do, don't split yourself open again.

[hawk]

so I made a start on my custom front spoiler. This is something I've wanted to try for a while and finally bit the bullet.

While I've only made a small start, you'll get the idea of it pretty quick.

Started out with a UC valence panel

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Cut the lip off and cut in half.

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Bitif hammer and dolly work to get it in the rough shape I'm after.

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And finally test fitted on the car.

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It's going to require some more bolt holes for mounting and the sides need to be sorted.

I have some buggered front guards lined up so that I can wrap the spoiler around under the guards. Same theory as the valence, chop the lower guards off, flip them upside down and join to the spoiler.

Actually really happy with how its coming up so far.

[hawk]

Hey Guys,

 

Currently trying to work out a gearbox to go with behind the 304. As far as I'm aware there are 3 main options:

 

1. TKX - I believe the complete setup is around 10k. Mal Wood hasn't returned my calls about this yet.

 

2. Toyota R154 - I can purchase from Toyota brand new although the shifter is remote and in the wrong position, does anyone know if this can be changed? and where I'd be likely to find the correct shifter. Currently waiting on Dellows to send me through a price for the complete conversion kit to bolt into Torana.

 

3. Ford T5 - If I found a Ford 6 Cyl T5 and did the conversion , once the box is rebuilt it would come out to roughly the same as the Toyota box. I believe the Toyota box is stronger.

 

Then I need to decide on hydraulic or cable clutch, is it even worth considering cable?

 

At the end of the day I'm after something that will be trouble free behind a mild 304, with a bit of motorkhana and other track work in mind. It will be driven hard.

 

Next up is Front Brakes. Looking at the hoppers kit or the Wilwood kit from the Rod shop. Still deciding which to go with. Currently leaning towards the Wilwood kit as it has 4 pot calipers.

I understand I'll need a new master at minimum as I'll be running 4 wheel discs, any recommendations?

 

Is there anything I'm missing or not considering? I know a custom tail shaft is on the cards regardless of what I choose.

[Peter UC]

Personally I would go with a T5 with a cable clutch if you know you're not going to have scope creep in the future. It's an easy fit with minimal to no tunnel mods, clutches are easy to source and the cable clutch works fine.

Obviously if you want more power in the future than consider the other options

 

Personally for brakes go with the Hoppers, yes the Wilwood are 4 pot but a way smaller, have smaller pads, flex more, have less pad/disk options and I really like using OEM parts rather than aftermarket, they are just better quality.

[Peter UC]

Also have you seen my front spoiler? It was made from a heavily modified VH HDT front spoiler.

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[yel327]

If you decide to go Toyota box let me know. I'll look and see if I have a bellhousing. Pretty sure I have a few cable clutch types in Chev and Holden patterns. But I haven't seen them for a long time, buried up on the mezzanine.

[rodomo]

Cable 

[neglectedtorana]

Hi Steve,

Good your mending enough to get back into the area, like your plans.
Build a fun car and drive e it in fun events.
Hope you find all the bits you need.

Cheers, Tom

[hawk]

Thanks guys, it's a hard decision.

Mal Wood quoted 10500 for the TKX and all the gear, so almost 11k with shipping.

The problem is if I do that then I'm not left with enough cash to finish the car.

I've been told I'll probably break a T5 with the way I drive the car. Plus I'm struggling to find one.

I could go an auto for now and I'd get it in for 5k then have enough left to do my brakes, tailshaft, exhaust and maybe even get it engineered.

What's still pending once it's in is:
exhaust $600 to $800
Hoppers brake kit $2200
Tailshaft $800 approx
I still need to get the skyline brakes rebuilt and brake lines run on the diff, then handbrake cables and probably booster and master.
That would leave me 5k to 7k for a box if I do it all at once.

[mr5000]

Great to see you out and about the other week in torana run I’ve just started down the track of new front brakes for mine too I bought a similar kit to hoppers at a fraction of the price from planet parts runs au series 2 calipers with ba falcon discs have to supply pads discs and bearings but the rest including brake lines are included for $700


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[yel327]

Thanks guys, it's a hard decision.

Mal Wood quoted 10500 for the TKX and all the gear, so almost 11k with shipping.

The problem is if I do that then I'm not left with enough cash to finish the car.

I've been told I'll probably break a T5 with the way I drive the car. Plus I'm struggling to find one.

I could go an auto for now and I'd get it in for 5k then have enough left to do my brakes, tailshaft, exhaust and maybe even get it engineered.

What's still pending once it's in is:
exhaust $600 to $800
Hoppers brake kit $2200
Tailshaft $800 approx
I still need to get the skyline brakes rebuilt and brake lines run on the diff, then handbrake cables and probably booster and master.
That would leave me 5k to 7k for a box if I do it all at once.

 

There are some cheap W Toyota boxes around, like this:

 

https://www.gumtree....rona/1317254330

 

By the ratio on it I reckon its a W55 but I think they use the same bellhousing etc. Not ideal but would still work until your funds allow for a different box.

 

As I said, if you decide to go this way let me know and I'll have a look and see if I have a bellhousing for you, and you can have it nice and cheap. I'll also be down on the Mornington Peninsula in the next month.

 

Here is a proper W58, lot dearer:

 

https://www.gumtree....box-/1315738512

[SmacT]

I put the TKX set up in mine and it seems great, though haven't driven on it. It is A LOT of coin though. You may blow a T5, they aren't strong, but Mal Wood does a T5 option with s couple of strengthening mods, a rear housing that will fit in a Torana and still let you use cable clutch - that was half the price to a TKX I seem to remember, so maybe worth asking him? 

Also, diff brakelines are really easy to make yourself: $60 worth of tubing, nipples and a flare tool (Amazon or Ebay) will do the job.

[hawk]

Well I've found a guy who will supply a full falcon T5 conversion locally with a rebuilt box for 4500. so it looks like I'm going with that.

Sadly I've had a massive setback. The dumb frOck diff joint made it to suit LH/LX instead of UC and apparently won't redo the mounts in UC position because of the cast centre.

Specifically asked for UC. so that's 4k out of pocket and no idea what to do for a diff now.

[AbsynthHatch]

You could sell the diff and start again, I suppose.

They're a pretty popular setup and surely there's plenty of people who are chasing one.

I'd be pissed off to mate.

It's a bit bloody rude that he's not willing to repair his stuff up.

[yel327]

That does suck. At least you have a diff for LH-LX that is saleable so you can recoup most of the $. Would be harder to offload if it was the other way around.