Spoke to CRS. They said both the TF9 and the TF12 can work. For my application, he didn't seem to have an exact answer for me on the spot about which one is the better option.
Also mentioned there may be a need to elongate the hole in the bellhousing where the fork fits in. They're not cheap either, but I'm happy to spend the cash to do this right.
Supra 5 Spd behind 253/308 - WHICH CLUTCH SETUP?
Started by
LXCHEV
, Aug 28 2006 11:51 PM
103 replies to this topic
#26
LXCHEV
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Posted 08 April 2008 - 02:48 PM
#27
_Toranamuk_
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Posted 09 April 2008 - 12:39 AM
TF9 is hat I used to use a long time ago, but the last few I used te original like the TF12 & modified it myself.
Craig.
Craig.
#28
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Posted 09 April 2008 - 10:30 PM
Ok well since I don't have a fork to start with, I think I'll just buy myself a TF9 - this should provide a good starting point for me.
#29
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Posted 17 April 2008 - 03:55 PM
I thought I'd chase up the UC 6cyl clutch cable today - called Holden spare parts, no joy there. Called Rare Spares, and they have 2 options:
UC cable suit torque master box
UC cable suit non torque master box
Their website lists # 92002739 as UC 6 cyl - Rare Spares said this is the Torque Master one. So is this the one I need to purchase???
These Rare Spares cables are made to order, with a 2 week turnaround time (and cost $49.50) for those interested in following this conversion.
UC cable suit torque master box
UC cable suit non torque master box
Their website lists # 92002739 as UC 6 cyl - Rare Spares said this is the Torque Master one. So is this the one I need to purchase???
These Rare Spares cables are made to order, with a 2 week turnaround time (and cost $49.50) for those interested in following this conversion.
#30
rodomo
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Posted 17 April 2008 - 05:45 PM
This is the mob who make them. You can look up all Torana cables on this site:
http://www.fdrive.co...earchcables.php
I have a UC Torque master cable here if you want to try before you buy.
(Just don't tell Heath I lent it to you)
http://www.fdrive.co...earchcables.php
I have a UC Torque master cable here if you want to try before you buy.
(Just don't tell Heath I lent it to you)
#31
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Posted 20 April 2008 - 11:23 PM
Thanks for the kind offer rodomo - but I'm just going to order one anyway. That website lists 2 UC cables - both have the same part number anyway, so sounds like I can't go wrong. I'll order the Torque master one this week.
Cheers (and thanks for the handy link too).
- Brett.
Cheers (and thanks for the handy link too).
- Brett.
#32
_RTS Guy_
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Posted 22 April 2008 - 10:03 PM
Brett make sure you keep us posted with how it all goes.
#33
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Posted 22 April 2008 - 11:53 PM
Shall do mate... I have committed to the conversion now by ordering all the bits.
I have some old PM's from Craig (Toranamuk) and he's given me some pointers on the mods coming up (As discussed AGES ago, I'll probably have to ask you some more questions too Craig if that's cool).... so stay tuned....
I have some old PM's from Craig (Toranamuk) and he's given me some pointers on the mods coming up (As discussed AGES ago, I'll probably have to ask you some more questions too Craig if that's cool).... so stay tuned....
#34
_Toranamuk_
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Posted 24 April 2008 - 12:30 AM
Feel free to ask me as you go, there's little things that pop up that can cause a headache.
You'll need to do a bit of measuring to get the pivot ball height set correct & to also make sure the clutch fork doesn't contact the pressure plate as it travels forward.
Using the longer V8 thrust bearing will require the clutch fork & bell housing to have some modifications made to ensure it has adequate "back travel".
The shorter 6cyl thrust bearing may cause the clutch fork to contact the pressure plate on full travel.
The proper thrust bearing is not the CT22 type as used in the standard HQ & Torana assemblies.
Be prepared to pull the box out a couple of times if needed. If possible, when you fit the spigot bush into the crank, fit it until it sits flush with the back of the crank, (approx 5mm protruding from where the original spigot sits). Fit the gearbox & bell housing & check the input shaft & spigot depth. I have found no consistency in the machining of the bell housings, so this is more of a safety measure.
I'll PM you my mobile no. if you get really stuck over the weekend.
Craig
You'll need to do a bit of measuring to get the pivot ball height set correct & to also make sure the clutch fork doesn't contact the pressure plate as it travels forward.
Using the longer V8 thrust bearing will require the clutch fork & bell housing to have some modifications made to ensure it has adequate "back travel".
The shorter 6cyl thrust bearing may cause the clutch fork to contact the pressure plate on full travel.
The proper thrust bearing is not the CT22 type as used in the standard HQ & Torana assemblies.
Be prepared to pull the box out a couple of times if needed. If possible, when you fit the spigot bush into the crank, fit it until it sits flush with the back of the crank, (approx 5mm protruding from where the original spigot sits). Fit the gearbox & bell housing & check the input shaft & spigot depth. I have found no consistency in the machining of the bell housings, so this is more of a safety measure.
I'll PM you my mobile no. if you get really stuck over the weekend.
Craig
#35
Evan
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Posted 27 April 2008 - 02:17 AM
And breaking off bits of a cake of soap and pushing them into the old spigot bush with a dummy shaft is the best for getting out the old spigot bush, especially if its worn.
Evan.
Evan.
#36
_LHSLR5.0_
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Posted 14 July 2008 - 12:29 AM
Hope to speak to Chris (Toranamuk)re this conversion. I have PM'd him and have asked some questions. Want to complete this set up as have month off work. Just need to know what type of bell housing, thurst bearing, and fork to use, and I'll be away, have everything else. Does anyone know if the cable goes through the standard hole, or will i have to drill another, have not looked yet. Will post pics and pn's as I go to help others. Thanks for your help. This post rocks!!! Will have to make it sticky when were done. 
Andrew
Andrew
#37
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Posted 14 July 2008 - 12:48 AM
Sorry Toranamuk I mean't Craig not Chris.
Andrew
Andrew
#38
_LHSLR5.0_
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Posted 15 July 2008 - 07:25 PM
Just spoke to Craig on PH good bloke! Thanks again for your time. Have as much info on doing this as I can get! Will keep everyone updated and will take heaps of pics when doing mods. Hopefully we can all do this one day!
Andrew
Andrew
#39
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 11:47 AM
Grab a stock UC 6cyl cable clutch pedal. The top of the pedal needs to be modified to get the pivot ratio correct to suit the longer clutch fork
Ok, I'm chasing up a pedal this week, I need to get cracking on this conversion again.
With the pedals - is there a definite need to source a UC pedal, or can a standard LH/LX clutch pedal be modified?
#40
_UC HATCH_
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 01:37 PM
Hi Brett
Have you read this topic http://www.gmh-toran.......=27769&st=0 it may be some help.
I ended up going hydraulic with the friends LX and supra box and worked well.
Have you read this topic http://www.gmh-toran.......=27769&st=0 it may be some help.
I ended up going hydraulic with the friends LX and supra box and worked well.
#41
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 02:38 PM
Yeah I've read that thread, very informative.
I was just curious if standard LH / LX pedals could be easily modded to turn them into cable type pedals - but for simplicity, I'll just go and buy a UC pedal anyway, and keep this pedal as a spare, should the car ever need to be converted back to stock one day.
I'm about to remove my Supra box for a full rebuild with new bearings. So when I refit it, I will finally be finishing this cable setup once and for all!
I was just curious if standard LH / LX pedals could be easily modded to turn them into cable type pedals - but for simplicity, I'll just go and buy a UC pedal anyway, and keep this pedal as a spare, should the car ever need to be converted back to stock one day.
I'm about to remove my Supra box for a full rebuild with new bearings. So when I refit it, I will finally be finishing this cable setup once and for all!
#42
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Posted 15 October 2008 - 04:31 PM
Hi guys,
Just finished doing this setup and it is brilliant! I have taken heaps of pics on my mobile and will try and send/post them if people want to see them. It is well worth while and is very easy to do, with the hardest part being the modification to the clutch pedal. Thanks heap to Craig for his time, as i had to call him a couple of times. The key is to wind that pivot ball out if you are not getting enough throw. Cut the hole out for the extended clutch hook with a body saw, and make sure you bend your standard fork back 20 degrees before you install it, everything else is easy if your a bit mechanical. I have heard blokes talk about getting the right pedal height, I did as Craig suggested and only moved the hook up 25mm and did not change position towards fire wall. I then used the spring that sit s on the main clutch mounting bolt and wrapped it around backwards towards the firewall and slotted the loose end with the cink/hook on it, into a factory hole on the metal bracket that the steering column mounts to. If any one has any q's feel free to ask and i will help if i can.
Regards
Andrew
Just finished doing this setup and it is brilliant! I have taken heaps of pics on my mobile and will try and send/post them if people want to see them. It is well worth while and is very easy to do, with the hardest part being the modification to the clutch pedal. Thanks heap to Craig for his time, as i had to call him a couple of times. The key is to wind that pivot ball out if you are not getting enough throw. Cut the hole out for the extended clutch hook with a body saw, and make sure you bend your standard fork back 20 degrees before you install it, everything else is easy if your a bit mechanical. I have heard blokes talk about getting the right pedal height, I did as Craig suggested and only moved the hook up 25mm and did not change position towards fire wall. I then used the spring that sit
s on the main clutch mounting bolt and wrapped it around backwards towards the firewall and slotted the loose end with the cink/hook on it, into a factory hole on the metal bracket that the steering column mounts to. If any one has any q's feel free to ask and i will help if i can.Regards
Andrew
#43
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Posted 09 September 2009 - 02:04 PM
Hey Andrew, when do we get to see these mobile phone pics of yours mate?!!
I still haven't changed my setup yet. I've got 98% of the bits sitting there ready to go though!
I still haven't changed my setup yet. I've got 98% of the bits sitting there ready to go though!
#44
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Posted 18 September 2009 - 04:44 AM
Hey Andrew, when do we get to see these mobile phone pics of yours mate?!!
I still haven't changed my setup yet. I've got 98% of the bits sitting there ready to go though!
#45
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Posted 30 September 2009 - 11:00 AM
Can anyone tell me what thrust bearing I need to buy? I'm using the TF9 CRS throw-out fork. Does this use the same thrust bearing as the TF12 and other styles?
#46
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Posted 30 September 2009 - 04:06 PM
Can anyone tell me what thrust bearing I need to buy? I'm using the TF9 CRS throw-out fork. Does this use the same thrust bearing as the TF12 and other styles?
I thought it was just the Holden bearing if you are using the Holden type pressure plate, the carrier is different.
#47
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Posted 01 October 2009 - 04:19 PM
So what's the go with carriers??? I have very little knowledge on this area. I just have a standard V8 thrust bearing which slips over the input shaft of the box. Are carriers a separate piece, or part of the thrust bearing which comes apart?? Anyone got a photo to show me an example?
#48
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Posted 01 October 2009 - 04:29 PM
The bearing and the carrier looks like one part but are two separate pieces.
Most of my stuff is packed away ATM to verify but I assume a quick check would be to slide the bearing and carrier on to the input shaft carrier and see if it is a clean fit, im sure one won't fit the other and the other way one would be loose.
Do you know the history of the bearing/carrier?
Most of my stuff is packed away ATM to verify but I assume a quick check would be to slide the bearing and carrier on to the input shaft carrier and see if it is a clean fit, im sure one won't fit the other and the other way one would be loose.
Do you know the history of the bearing/carrier?
#49
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Posted 29 March 2010 - 07:43 PM
I prefer to use the pull cable clutch system like the commodore/UC set ups.
Using the BH 40 bell housing, purchase a CB2 cable bracket & either one of CRS's custom clutch forks, or modify a commy/WB V8 clutch fork. The outer protruding edge of the fork from the bell housing needs to be heated & bent towards the rear of the bell housing.
Use a standard UC 6cyl Aussie 4sp clutch cable.
Grab a stock UC 6cyl cable clutch pedal. The top of the pedal needs to be modified to get the pivot ratio correct to suit the longer clutch fork.
Cut the hook off flush with the top of the pedal. Add a 25mm piece between the pedal & the hook to raise the hook up by 25mm & weld it in (good quality welding needed).
Modify the panel above the clutch pedal with a die grinder where the hook will swing to give it enough clearance. It will go right up to the brake pedal bolt crush tube.
It might sound like a lot of work or a bit odd, but its worth the effort, & to only have 1 effective wearing part (the cable) it gives a nice smooth & not heavy clutch.
I've done a lot of these conversions, & even one for "dangerous" for his hatch.
For more info if you need , PM me. More info to give than what it'll take to post, like cable position in the firewall etc etc
#50
_fitzsi_
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Posted 29 March 2010 - 07:50 PM
HiI prefer to use the pull cable clutch system like the commodore/UC set ups.
Using the BH 40 bell housing, purchase a CB2 cable bracket & either one of CRS's custom clutch forks, or modify a commy/WB V8 clutch fork. The outer protruding edge of the fork from the bell housing needs to be heated & bent towards the rear of the bell housing.
Use a standard UC 6cyl Aussie 4sp clutch cable.
Grab a stock UC 6cyl cable clutch pedal. The top of the pedal needs to be modified to get the pivot ratio correct to suit the longer clutch fork.
Cut the hook off flush with the top of the pedal. Add a 25mm piece between the pedal & the hook to raise the hook up by 25mm & weld it in (good quality welding needed).
Modify the panel above the clutch pedal with a die grinder where the hook will swing to give it enough clearance. It will go right up to the brake pedal bolt crush tube.
It might sound like a lot of work or a bit odd, but its worth the effort, & to only have 1 effective wearing part (the cable) it gives a nice smooth & not heavy clutch.
I've done a lot of these conversions, & even one for "dangerous" for his hatch.
For more info if you need , PM me. More info to give than what it'll take to post, like cable position in the firewall etc etc
The son is wanting now to put a cable clutch into his LH Torana ( Coke LH )instead of the rat trap now ( Lucky me )Do you have any pictures of the actual clutch pedal etc where the new hook is to be welded and do you know of anyone that sells the hooks.Any help would be appreciated so I can get the car running again and I can get back to putting my hot rod back together.
Thanks Fitzsi
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