76 replies to this topic

[kimbo]

How percentage of flattener went into the paint? It looks pretty well spot on.

50/50 mix sikkens superior matte clear

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[kimbo]

Not sure if the glovebox lids have a bend in them or I am just lucky. I will be painting to SS colours so wanting to clamp, heat and straighten before then. Do yours have bends in them? :-)  20240331_185507.jpg   62.28K   8 downloads  20240331_185524.jpg   59.93K   6 downloads  20240331_185537.jpg   55.28K   5 downloads

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[Cook]

Hi Kim. Yes mine was quite bent. Guess it's due to the constant pressure against the rubber stoppers whilst sitting in the sun. I heated up mine as much as possible whilst having a weight sitting on it. Not perfect but a lot better.

[Kevrev]

Same here, lid bent, heated it up very carefully with a heat gun and placed a weight on it to straighten. Came up OK

Attached Files

•  Glovebox lid bent small.JPG   77.69K   5 downloads

[kimbo]

Just installed a Crow 5689-9 cam into the 308 before installing into the Torrie. Much of the gear hanging off the motor is just for the test bed. Checkout the YouTube video of it running, I am happy with the choppiness :-)

https://youtube.com/...4UgSuDxmsG5JTey  20240409_181139.jpg   42.72K   4 downloads  20240409_190817.jpg   78.8K   4 downloads

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[Shiney005]

I think that nice sounding idle may smooth out quite a bit once you get a torque converter full of oil attached to it.

[kimbo]

Installed the diff and fitted the rear wheels  20240418_174014.jpg   85.62K   6 downloads  20240418_174038.jpg   79.08K   5 downloads  20240418_141231.jpg   88.43K   5 downloads

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[jeffblanco]

Hi Kim,

looks great.

Could you able to measure the sizes of the tyres at the fronts and backs if you could thanks you me.

 

Regards Mando

[kimbo]

Hi Kim,
looks great.
Could you able to measure the sizes of the tyres at the fronts and backs if you could thanks you me.

Regards Mando

The nominal measurements are 315 for the rears and 245 for the fronts. The actuals are 300 and 245.

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[jeffblanco]

Thanks for the tyres, could send with the 40s or 45s and anything I have forgot.

The Kim brand are tyres and I am assume they are 17 x 8 and 17 x 10s.

Are you able to send some side pictures.

 

Regards Mando.

[Bigfella237]

Hey Mando, seems like you're on the mend and getting back into the Torana? Good to hear!

 

Kim, I think Mando is trying to duplicate your car's stance, so could you let us know:

 

1) Is the diff standard width, or has it been shortened?

 

2) Could you let us know the rim sizes and offsets front & rear (for example, the rears might be something like 15x10" with a 3" backspace)?

 

3) And the brand and size written on the tyres themselves (for example, the rears might be something like Goodyear Eagle 315/40R15)?

 

Thanks!

[jeffblanco]

Hi Andrew,

I write the best I can.

 

=  10 x 17 8 x 8 in hotwires

=  275 x 245

=  the need measurements need to flare the edge then tyres to start

    my look rears and fronts seem a gap then my Torana from Kim's white hatches

 

Regards Mando.

[kimbo]

The diff is 20mm shorter than standard and the shocking mounts have been moved in 15mm each side.

The rears are 17x10s with 4.5in offset. If I had my time over I might have gone 5in as potentially I might rub a bit on the flares. I have heaps of inboard room. The tires are Toyo Extensa HP II 315/35R17.

The fronts are 17x 8in rims with Falken 245/17R17 tires.

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[Shiney005]

I think yours had a narrowed diff housing Mando?

 

 2015-01-01 00.00.00-86.jpg   149.26K   9 downloads

[kimbo]

I think yours had a narrowed diff housing Mando?

2015-01-01 00.00.00-86.jpg

Mine is 1420 from mating surface to mating surface.

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[jeffblanco]

Hi guy's,

the front wheels are as just scrub are 235/45/17 the wheels are 643.3mm.

 

Are your front car in Kimbo wheels are getting 245/?/17 what.

 

The need new ones be 235/40/17 the wheels are 619.8mm hit the photos I showed.

I have look others tyres to find 620mm or 630mm the body hit. 

 

 DSCN0631.jpg   210.42K   5 downloads

 

 DSCN0632.jpg   170.57K   3 downloads

 

Regards Mando.

Edited by jeffblanco, 22 April 2024 - 03:14 PM.

[kimbo]

Hi guy's,
the front wheels are as just scrub are 235/45/17 the wheels are 643.3mm.

Are your front car in Kimbo wheels are getting 245/?/17 what.

The need new ones be 235/40/17 the wheels are 619.8mm hit the photos I showed.
I have look others tyres to find 620mm or 630mm the body hit.

DSCN0631.jpg

DSCN0632.jpg

Regards Mando.

Sorry Mando. My mistake. The Fronts are 245/40R17. That seem in the wheelwell has been folded over. It will be tight but should be OK. Fingers crossed. I will know for sure by the end of the week as the Kframe will be installed and I can fit the front wheels.

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[jeffblanco]

Thanks Kim,

I would what tyres you get any scrub the body.

I am told size 245/40/17 will get 628mm when you get the same.

 

 

Regards Mando.

[kimbo]

Thanks Kim,
I would what tyres you get any scrub the body.
I am told size 245/40/17 will get 628mm when you get the same.


Regards Mando.

I believe that 245/40r17s are OK as long as that seam in the wheelwell is cut off or folded.

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[kimbo]

KFrame and motor gearbox assembly went in today  20240425_173702.jpg   88.42K   5 downloads  20240425_170703.jpg   90.2K   8 downloads

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[Bigfella237]

That looks awesome, kimbo! Getting real close now.

 

One small observation... You shouldn't really block off all of those heater hose fittings on the thermostat housing and water pump.

 

There needs to be some water bypassing the thermostat when it's closed, either via the heater core or via a bypass hose directly from the manifold to the pump, otherwise the coolant can't circulate.

 

There's two main problems with that:

 

Firstly, thermostat opening will be delayed because it has to rely on heat being conducted along the stagnant coolant to open, whereas, with a bypass hose (or an 'always on' heater core), there is at least some coolant circulating past the thermostat, even when it's closed; and

 

Secondly, different parts of the engine heat up at different rates, so without any circulation you will have near-boiling coolant around the exhaust ports in the cylinder heads, while the coolant in the radiator may be freezing cold, which isn't good because when the thermostat does eventually open the hot parts of the engine get dunked in cold water, plus the thermostat will sense the cold water and snap closed, starting the whole cycle over again!

 

Some thermostats have a bleed hole with a little jiggly thing in it, but that's there to allow any air trapped below the thermostat to escape, it's not big enough to act as the sole bypass circuit.

[kimbo]

That looks awesome, kimbo! Getting real close now.

One small observation... You shouldn't really block off all of those heater hose fittings on the thermostat housing and water pump.

There needs to be some water bypassing the thermostat when it's closed, either via the heater core or via a bypass hose directly from the manifold to the pump, otherwise the coolant can't circulate.

There's two main problems with that:

Firstly, thermostat opening will be delayed because it has to rely on heat being conducted along the stagnant coolant to open, whereas, with a bypass hose (or an 'always on' heater core), there is at least some coolant circulating past the thermostat, even when it's closed; and

Secondly, different parts of the engine heat up at different rates, so without any circulation you will have near-boiling coolant around the exhaust ports in the cylinder heads, while the coolant in the radiator may be freezing cold, which isn't good because when the thermostat does eventually open the hot parts of the engine get dunked in cold water, plus the thermostat will sense the cold water and snap closed, starting the whole cycle over again!

Some thermostats have a bleed hole with a little jiggly thing in it, but that's there to allow any air trapped below the thermostat to escape, it's not big enough to act as the sole bypass circuit.

Thanks mate. Those were just temporary for when I ran the cam in. I used a heat gun to check temps all over the place when I did this and it hung in there nicely

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[jeffblanco]

Thanks Kim,

I would what tyres you get any scrub the body.

I am told size 245/40/17 will get 628mm when you get the same.

 

 

 

Regards Mando.

Hi Kim,

I think I get the 245/40/17 would be 645mm NOT I thought to be 628mm.

My tyreman see to be 235/45/17 643.3mm in my original tyres where they say the new tyres will be 235/40/17 619.8mm.

The seam wheelwells were before long for.

I hope you will get after you new tyres when see.

 

Regards Mando. 

[kimbo]

Hi Kim,
I think I get the 245/40/17 would be 645mm NOT I thought to be 628mm.
My tyreman see to be 235/45/17 643.3mm in my original tyres where they say the new tyres will be 235/40/17 619.8mm.
The seam wheelwells were before long for.
I hope you will get after you new tyres when see.

Regards Mando.

Hi Mando, my tires are 627mm and now that they are fitted they seem to clear body and suspension OK. The folded seam is very close but it misses. The front of the flares hit when the wheel is turned which is a flare fitment issue that I think can be rectified OK.

Also hoppers brakes fit the wheels about 8mm further out which makes things worse. If I had my time again I think I would have machined the rims to 4.75 in offset instead of 4.5 in.  20240427_194644.jpg   53.49K   3 downloads  20240427_194152.jpg   75.44K   3 downloads  20240427_154557.jpg   58.98K   3 downloads  20240427_193042.jpg   51.14K   3 downloads

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[Bigfella237]

~ The front of the flares hit when the wheel is turned which is a flare fitment issue that I think can be rectified OK. ~

Yeah, but most people do that BEFORE they're painted!

 

(Sorry, couldn't resist)