Sure are..look like HT/HG ones to me..never seen LH ones..might be the same.
If using std headers...all drivers side are the same..passenger side you will need an LH or commodore that points down at a 45 degree angle to help clean the firewall...pretty easy to sus as all the other models point straight back at the firewall at 90 degrees. Plenty around
R
V8 Lc/Lj
Started by
_holdon_
, Sep 18 2006 08:06 AM
54 replies to this topic
#27
_JBird_
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Posted 09 November 2006 - 02:49 PM
When you move the Steering column 20mm to the right, do you have to modify any of the pedals? It looks pretty close..
If you move the column you can use std headers, std V8 on drivers and LH/Comm on Pass. side. Most of the extractors on ebay look like they go down at a 45 degree angle, so they would be alright to use too right.
Hey LHoon, You got a pic of how close your Astra rims sit to the shockies and inner guard (at the back). Anyone know what offset Astra rims are? My guess being 40P?
If you move the column you can use std headers, std V8 on drivers and LH/Comm on Pass. side. Most of the extractors on ebay look like they go down at a 45 degree angle, so they would be alright to use too right.
Hey LHoon, You got a pic of how close your Astra rims sit to the shockies and inner guard (at the back). Anyone know what offset Astra rims are? My guess being 40P?
#28
_JBird_
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Posted 09 November 2006 - 03:10 PM
Also for those wondering the CRS headers are the same as Jet-Hot and the same as Castle Auto Electrics.
#29
_LHoon_
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Posted 09 November 2006 - 03:26 PM
Sorry for the thread steal.....Hey LHoon, You got a pic of how close your Astra rims sit to the shockies and inner guard (at the back). Anyone know what offset Astra rims are? My guess being 40P?
I'm told the offset is +49.
I have a skyline BW diff, which is actually standard skyline length. So my diff is longer than a standard torana diff.
I've recently found out that the rims are 5x110 PCD whereas torana is 5x108. I originally thought they were the same. They still fit fine, but I'm not too keen on keeping them much longer now.
Back on track now.... I'm not sure if the pedals need modification. I didn't think so. Anyone else know? I will find out soon, when I move my column.
#30
_rorym_
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Posted 09 November 2006 - 05:39 PM
Nope...just move it over to within 2mm of the pedal..thats about the distance.
Rory
Rory
#31
_draglc_
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Posted 09 November 2006 - 09:38 PM
i also just moved the bottom of the column over about 1.5cm, easy to do!
A1
A1
#32
_holdon_
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 01:21 PM
this tread is getting somewhere!! 
cheers for all the input. its gonna stop from making stupid mistakes
cheers for all the input. its gonna stop from making stupid mistakes
#33
_draglc_
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 02:17 PM
dont worry mate, its not as hard as you think, will be easier now that ive done it.
A1
A1
#34
gtrboyy
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 11:37 PM
If you move the column all the way over like I to had because I was using a vs s3 block you can either modify the clutch pedal as it will touch the plastic shroud on the bottom of the column or take the shroud off.
If you want to modify the clutch pedal you can either bend the lip on the side to suit or cut the side of it,weld in a rod to strengthen it & then reweld lip back on to the side of the pedal.
The pedal will only touch the shroud when it is fully depressed & you have moved the steering column all the way over to the clutch pedal.
If you want to modify the clutch pedal you can either bend the lip on the side to suit or cut the side of it,weld in a rod to strengthen it & then reweld lip back on to the side of the pedal.
The pedal will only touch the shroud when it is fully depressed & you have moved the steering column all the way over to the clutch pedal.
#35
_JBird_
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Posted 10 November 2006 - 11:51 PM
Thanks Shane. 
Is it better if you attach the steering shaft to the crossmember with that thing CRS sell or just "dangling" with two knuckles (one at rack end and one at column end).
Is it better if you attach the steering shaft to the crossmember with that thing CRS sell or just "dangling" with two knuckles (one at rack end and one at column end).
#36
gtrboyy
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Posted 11 November 2006 - 12:48 AM
I would put the eng/box in & then set the steering column up as they go in different spots for different combinations as an early 308/trimatic-m21 you move the column over in the std bolt holes.If you using a 304/th700 it has to be moved over much further & the bolt holes have to be redrilled in the floor for the column.
If you were to fit a manual 304/getrag/6spd then you can only move column over as far as the clutch pedal will allow & then you modify the steering shaft/knuckles & rack to suit.If you go to a chev you may have to use a three knuckle set up because of the starter motor.I've found each car to be different,some simple & others requiring some fiddling around.
If you were to fit a manual 304/getrag/6spd then you can only move column over as far as the clutch pedal will allow & then you modify the steering shaft/knuckles & rack to suit.If you go to a chev you may have to use a three knuckle set up because of the starter motor.I've found each car to be different,some simple & others requiring some fiddling around.
Edited by gtrboyy, 11 November 2006 - 12:50 AM.
#37
_evilsim_
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Posted 12 November 2006 - 10:30 PM
In Queensland an LC / LJ can be road registered with no larger than 312 cubes ... with engineers aproval of course.So whats the max. cubes we can have for a N/A engine in a LC/LJ and what will it be reduced to when these new laws come in?? Also when are they expected to come into effect?
Cheers Jugs
Just got my Qld Mod plate today.
Will be cruising the streets in no time hahaha.
#38
_draglc_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 01:30 PM
Hey evilsim,
Where did you go to get it? What things were required to get the plate? What did it cost you?
Andrew
Where did you go to get it? What things were required to get the plate? What did it cost you?
Andrew
#39
_evilsim_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 02:28 PM
G'day draglc,
Firstly you must have an engineer check all modifications and provide you with a certified document saying all mods comply with Aust. standards ... my vehicle was done prior to my purchase of the vehicle and came with engineers cert. But to then get it passed Qld rego I had to take it to another engineer (Qld Roads approved) to go over it and provide me with a Mod plate. Mine was a little difficult as there are many mods ... eg. engine / gearbox / diff / chassis kit / brakes / steering / seats. I hope yours is easier.
Goodluck
*oh yeah cost for Qld engineers check + mod plate was $350
Firstly you must have an engineer check all modifications and provide you with a certified document saying all mods comply with Aust. standards ... my vehicle was done prior to my purchase of the vehicle and came with engineers cert. But to then get it passed Qld rego I had to take it to another engineer (Qld Roads approved) to go over it and provide me with a Mod plate. Mine was a little difficult as there are many mods ... eg. engine / gearbox / diff / chassis kit / brakes / steering / seats. I hope yours is easier.
Goodluck
*oh yeah cost for Qld engineers check + mod plate was $350
Edited by evilsim, 13 November 2006 - 02:29 PM.
#40
_chevy_253_torana_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 03:50 PM
i dont see why you have to go cutting up the steering shaft and changing the angle
a mate of mine pretty much the hq lj torana guru used to do v8 conversions years ago and tells me all i need is one lh knuckle where the lj one went
another thing is hatfields kit it supposedly is mandatory???
thats a load of shit if it is cause they almost made these in production and didnt bother really tweaking anything in the front end
a mate of mine pretty much the hq lj torana guru used to do v8 conversions years ago and tells me all i need is one lh knuckle where the lj one went
another thing is hatfields kit it supposedly is mandatory???
thats a load of shit if it is cause they almost made these in production and didnt bother really tweaking anything in the front end
#41
_JBird_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 03:59 PM
Ask an engineer if it is mandatory Chevy.
It is recommended though. I jack up one side of the LJ and I can't even open the door anymore...
Trial fit your V8 in with your "one-knuckle" approach and enlighten the rest of us - if it works then we can all rest easier.
It is recommended though. I jack up one side of the LJ and I can't even open the door anymore...
Trial fit your V8 in with your "one-knuckle" approach and enlighten the rest of us - if it works then we can all rest easier.
#42
_draglc_
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Posted 13 November 2006 - 08:47 PM
1 knuckle wont fit... and until youve done it yourself, theres no real point posting up what your 'guru' mate said.
2 knuckles, and it only just clears my extractors.
evilsim, sent you a pm.
A1
2 knuckles, and it only just clears my extractors.
evilsim, sent you a pm.
A1
Edited by draglc, 13 November 2006 - 08:48 PM.
#43
_jugs_
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Posted 15 November 2006 - 11:14 PM
G'day all, just wondering if you can buy the steering knuckles new from anywhere like coventry autos or are they all 2nd handys used?? Also in regards to a brake upgrade, would UC discs on the front of my LC be sufficient?? Also does anyone know of any good engineers on the South side of Brisbane that I can call?? As I need to ask questions about a twin turbo 8.
Thanks Jugs
Thanks Jugs
#44
_JBird_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 12:26 AM
Look on Ebay. Brand new they are around $110. Try a shop/holden spares...
Not to be rude or anything, but probably best to ask about UC discs in another section...or do a search. I don't think you will get away with using just the discs though, I'm sure they're bigger and you will have to use the appropriate caliper. I think OrangeLJ is doing the conversion soon. And I don't know what you mean by sufficient...Everyone has different braking standards, it also depends on what you use the brakes for. A TT V8, they most likely won't be 'sufficient'...Though in saying that I doubt you will be allowed to register that on the street - even in QLD. Best get a list of RTA Engineers from their website for your state and call.
My 2c...though A V8TT would sound like fun and be a great drag car. Until you've been in one with just a 'normal' V8, you probably won't think the same way. You lose traction too easily due to barely any weight over the rear wheels and I don't know about you but having such a taily car on the road is just plain stupid.
J
Not to be rude or anything, but probably best to ask about UC discs in another section...or do a search. I don't think you will get away with using just the discs though, I'm sure they're bigger and you will have to use the appropriate caliper. I think OrangeLJ is doing the conversion soon. And I don't know what you mean by sufficient...Everyone has different braking standards, it also depends on what you use the brakes for. A TT V8, they most likely won't be 'sufficient'...Though in saying that I doubt you will be allowed to register that on the street - even in QLD. Best get a list of RTA Engineers from their website for your state and call.
My 2c...though A V8TT would sound like fun and be a great drag car. Until you've been in one with just a 'normal' V8, you probably won't think the same way. You lose traction too easily due to barely any weight over the rear wheels and I don't know about you but having such a taily car on the road is just plain stupid.
J
#45
bryanw
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 09:01 AM
had 2 V8 lc gtr's at different times in the mid 80's
the warm 253 manual had std steering, cast manifolds. well looked std, I didn't do it.
manifold would rub on steering under hard exelleration on hard R/H turns only.
so it did fit, but not recommended. probably why they won't allow it!!
it also used to pop the bonnet to the safety latch as you hit second without lifting the exellerator, but sometimes only poped the drivers door to the second latch.
door was o/k, just open and shut it, the bonnet sucked though, you have to pull over in the heat of the battle.
the other was a red 308 auto with the 2 LH knuckle conversion, no problems.
didn't pop anything either?
don't waste the time looking at a TTV8 for the street.
only for a trailor queen!!!!
the warm 253 manual had std steering, cast manifolds. well looked std, I didn't do it.
manifold would rub on steering under hard exelleration on hard R/H turns only.
so it did fit, but not recommended. probably why they won't allow it!!
it also used to pop the bonnet to the safety latch as you hit second without lifting the exellerator, but sometimes only poped the drivers door to the second latch.
door was o/k, just open and shut it, the bonnet sucked though, you have to pull over in the heat of the battle.
the other was a red 308 auto with the 2 LH knuckle conversion, no problems.
didn't pop anything either?
don't waste the time looking at a TTV8 for the street.
only for a trailor queen!!!!
#46
_draglc_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 12:42 PM
jugs - ive been meaning to reply to your pm, just havent had the time sorry, i will write up my own guide for the basic conversion shortly, hopefully it will help a lot of you guys out.
also i have lh-lx slotted rotors and uc alloy calipers on my lc, there are pics on my cardomain site, link is below. jugs your welcome to come around and have a look at it, i cant help you with the conversion though because it was already done when i bought the car!
A1
also i have lh-lx slotted rotors and uc alloy calipers on my lc, there are pics on my cardomain site, link is below. jugs your welcome to come around and have a look at it, i cant help you with the conversion though because it was already done when i bought the car!
A1
#47
_dinglj73_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 03:35 PM
my car uses uc calipars lh/lx disc works great ,chassis kit was not required but that will also depend on engineer, also used standard exhaust manafolds do too having to pass decibell test and also found best for clearence
#48
_lurkin308_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 06:53 PM
i can vouch for only one lx nuckle and i have plenty of room and yes you have to put extra rails (chassis kit) but it dosent have to be the hadfield one
#49
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 07:48 PM
jbird the castle auto electrics headers are NOT the same as the CRS ones. 2 totaly different companys. check out www.castleauto.com.au
#50
_JBird_
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Posted 16 November 2006 - 08:42 PM
Sorry I thought they were. CRS get theirs through JET-hot don't they? Same with Castle-Auto? I looked at both web pages and it gave me the impression they are the same make, just different distributors.
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