gday all,
it appears I have a blocked radiator or cooling system, seeing as today was a bit of a hot one and the tempreture guage just kept going up and up and up. A radiator place quoted me $88 to flush the radiator or $189 to flush the whole system.
Car is LJ running Stock 173, with extractors, straight gas and electronic Dizzy.
Steve
Overheating Problem -Blocked Cooling System
Started by
_73LJWhiteSL_
, Nov 21 2006 05:01 PM
133 replies to this topic
#2
REDA9X
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 05:23 PM
Pull the radiator out, turn it upside down and flush it out through every hole. Remove the thermostat and flush the block then back flush through the bottom hose as well. Take off the heater hoses from the waterpump as well and flush the heater in both directions. Keep doing it until it's clean. Look in the radiator though and see if any bits of metal flake have clogged the cores, if they have, you need to get it professionally cleaned. If not it should be ok to reconnect everything, fit a new thermostat and fill with coolant. If it doesn't remove much crap, then start looking at other causes.
#3
_Herne_
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 05:41 PM
Dont forget to remove the two ?? drain plugs on either side of the V8 block and reverse flush the block. You may well be surprised at what comes out.
Herne
Herne
#4
REDA9X
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:05 PM
If you can get them out that is. You could end up causing more dramas than you need removing those as they corrode in.
#5
_timbotorrie_
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:08 PM
run the engine with a bottle of flush in the system first and then jam the hose in every orifice 
#6
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:19 PM
Once you have flushed the system you should consider fitting a filter to the top inlet to catch bits before they block the radiator core.
There are three types I am aware of.
http://www.coolfilter.com.au/
http://www.mako.com.au/auto/tefba.htm
A woven filter sock.
I have used the coolfilter and currently have a woven sock filter but I can not find a link for them.
There are three types I am aware of.
http://www.coolfilter.com.au/
http://www.mako.com.au/auto/tefba.htm
A woven filter sock.
I have used the coolfilter and currently have a woven sock filter but I can not find a link for them.
#7
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:26 PM
YES, Both of those are good suggestions. I recomend using the flush for sure, but do a backflush on it first to get rid of the majority, put in the flush solution and run it for a few days then do the backflush again.
#8
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:28 PM
^^ if your going to use a filter make sure your hose clamps are TIGHT,i use a tefba filter,when i first fitted it and a bit of pressure built up it blew the top rad hose off,i guess the brass filter inside poses a bit of a restriction.
#9
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:44 PM
Once you have it radiator & block flushed out & everything checks out ok,consider doing a few things like drilling two small holes in the thermostat,fitting a 5 blade plastic fan & making up a shroud if you haven't already,also the tefba product is a good idea & will filter out alot of junk.
I had to pretty much do all the things listed above when I put my v8 in yet when I had a worked six all it needed was a vk radiator & a 16in thermo for the very hottest of days.
I had to pretty much do all the things listed above when I put my v8 in yet when I had a worked six all it needed was a vk radiator & a 16in thermo for the very hottest of days.
#10
_gtrtorana_
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:47 PM
I flushed mine recently as I had the head off and saw that the water jackets were full of scale. I used a product that you add to coolant that has little pellets in it(these pellets disolve over time). I believe it is made by bars leak. You leave it in coolant for about 200kms and then flush system. It made a difference in my car, it did not fix overheating issues but it did buy me more time in traffic. I by-passed heater when I used this product.
#11
Struggler
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:57 PM
That Bars product is mainly sand. Leave it in the cooling system for a week or two then flush it all out. It does an amazing job of cleaning the scale etc out of the block. I highly recommend it.
#12
_nunganunga_
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Posted 21 November 2006 - 08:11 PM
$88 bucks aint too bad a price for a proper cleanout. You might be able to squeeze him a bit for cash. A cooler thermostat is a good idea for lpg.
#13
_LX8VD69_
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Posted 22 November 2006 - 12:07 AM
i was watching myth busters a little while ago and they were talking about how coke eats calcium and some friends of mine and i were thinking we wonder if it would eat the calcium deposits that block radiators? i mean if we put a conny on the bottom out let of the radiator and filled it full of coke and left it for a couple of days i wonder if that would clean it out. seeming how you need to flush your radiator any way you should try it
#14
TerrA LX
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Posted 22 November 2006 - 01:23 AM
maybe just use the acid type in coke, diluted of course.
#15
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 22 November 2006 - 05:19 AM
Just going back a step, how did you/someone decide that the radiator was blocked? A bit of stuff floating around in the top of the rad doesn't mean its blocked. Basic test, pull bottom radiator hose off, if water from engine and radiator isnt all on the ground within 5 secs, ie it oozes out over 30 secs or so, you have a restriction
Radiator shops are infamous for recommending a flush of the whole system regardless of the problem.
Id go the route of the bars reactor stuff 1st, looks like the weather is going to be cooler the next few days so you can possibly run the motor for an hour or so with the stuff in there without overheating while it does its work.
Radiator shops are infamous for recommending a flush of the whole system regardless of the problem.
Id go the route of the bars reactor stuff 1st, looks like the weather is going to be cooler the next few days so you can possibly run the motor for an hour or so with the stuff in there without overheating while it does its work.
#16
Tiny
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Posted 22 November 2006 - 07:25 PM
I wouldnt reccomend drilling the thermostat. That's old school tech 
I know for chev engines you can buy a high-flow thermostat. When open it flows alot more water than the normal ones. I'd go for a 160 degree high flow (if you can get em for yours!) and follow the tips above!
I know for chev engines you can buy a high-flow thermostat. When open it flows alot more water than the normal ones. I'd go for a 160 degree high flow (if you can get em for yours!) and follow the tips above!
#17
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Posted 22 November 2006 - 07:28 PM
Yes the high flow thermostats are available, I bought one for my car. The hole is simply larger.
#18
_Monkey_
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Posted 22 November 2006 - 10:23 PM
from the vpw web site,bought one of these myself...havent used it yet so cant really comment on its performance.HIGH FLOW THERMOSTATS
These High Flow Thermostats greatly aid the proper functioning of a high performance cooling system. They are engineered to warm the engine to a proper operating temperature without making it run hot enough to loose power. Also the �Balanced Sleeve� design is highly recommended for use with High Volume water pumps. With other thermostat designs, the increased flow generated by high volume water pumps can actually attempt to hold the thermostat closed. The �Balanced Sleeve� design equals the pressure exerted on the thermostat allowing its operation to be solely regulated by coolant temperature.
MILO-16400 160 Thermostat - Chevy / Ford $34.49
These High Flow Thermostats greatly aid the proper functioning of a high performance cooling system. They are engineered to warm the engine to a proper operating temperature without making it run hot enough to loose power. Also the �Balanced Sleeve� design is highly recommended for use with High Volume water pumps. With other thermostat designs, the increased flow generated by high volume water pumps can actually attempt to hold the thermostat closed. The �Balanced Sleeve� design equals the pressure exerted on the thermostat allowing its operation to be solely regulated by coolant temperature.
MILO-16400 160 Thermostat - Chevy / Ford $34.49
#19
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 22 November 2006 - 10:43 PM
Thanks for the tips guys.
In responce to DA, I don't know if the cooling system is blocked, but the fact is i nearly cooked the car back a few months ago, I must have bumped one of the heater hoses loose when replacing the extractors, and anyways the next day when driving the heater hose came almost all the way off, emptied the cooling system, the tempreture guage went off the clock, without me noticing, and the car got so hot it blew the top of the tempreture sender. Ever since then the car has run hot, and my assumption is when it got too hot its loosened all the baked on crap in the cooling system and clogged the radiator.
Steve
In responce to DA, I don't know if the cooling system is blocked, but the fact is i nearly cooked the car back a few months ago, I must have bumped one of the heater hoses loose when replacing the extractors, and anyways the next day when driving the heater hose came almost all the way off, emptied the cooling system, the tempreture guage went off the clock, without me noticing, and the car got so hot it blew the top of the tempreture sender. Ever since then the car has run hot, and my assumption is when it got too hot its loosened all the baked on crap in the cooling system and clogged the radiator.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 22 November 2006 - 10:44 PM.
#21
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 23 November 2006 - 12:06 AM
Yikes! Blew the top of the temp sender? radiator cap working okay?without me noticing, and the car got so hot it blew the top of the tempreture sender. Ever since then the car has run hot, and my assumption is when it got too hot its loosened all the baked on crap in the cooling system and clogged the radiator.
Steve
Its possible you have loosened up some gunk to send around but would rate the probablility as low.
Do do the basic test I suggested for blockage. This would also show up as a big difference in temp between top and bottom hoses when the temp gauge shows a high reading.........this symptom could have another cause, poor pump performance.
While you can throw money at the prob, which may eventually solve it, do some basic tests to see where the prob lies first may save you some cash.
Its possilble you may have done some engine damage, does the motor still have full power?
Was this the first time you have run the motor on gas in 35+ temps?
#22
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 23 November 2006 - 01:27 PM
When i say it blew the top of the temp sender, I mean the top plastic bit came off. No water came out just the top with the terminal on it came off.
I don't think i have done any engine damage the car seems fine, doesn't make any funny noises, and it doesn't feel down on power at all.
After it got hot i left the car sit for nearly 2 hours before fixing the hose up, replacing the sender and then starting the car and refilling the radiator at the same time.
The car has always run hot since i had it on gas, usualy stablizing around 190 - 200F, however ever since that incident it just gets hotter and hotter and hotter, if it sits too long.
I've got some of that bars stuff and i have drained the radiator and i am gonna give that a go for the 200ks it recommends and then pull the radiator out and flush the whole system out.
I've also got a 160F thermostate so i will try that next if this doesn't achieve much.
thank again
Steve
I don't think i have done any engine damage the car seems fine, doesn't make any funny noises, and it doesn't feel down on power at all.
After it got hot i left the car sit for nearly 2 hours before fixing the hose up, replacing the sender and then starting the car and refilling the radiator at the same time.
The car has always run hot since i had it on gas, usualy stablizing around 190 - 200F, however ever since that incident it just gets hotter and hotter and hotter, if it sits too long.
I've got some of that bars stuff and i have drained the radiator and i am gonna give that a go for the 200ks it recommends and then pull the radiator out and flush the whole system out.
I've also got a 160F thermostate so i will try that next if this doesn't achieve much.
thank again
Steve
#23
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 26 November 2006 - 09:46 PM
Well I've done 200ks with the Bars stuff. I think the car is running a bit cooler, but not completely sure as we haven't had a hot day to test it yet. I've just pulled the radiator out, flushed it with the garden hose and flushed the heater core, gas converter, and block with the hose. Hopefully this will solve my problems, otherwise i will stick the 160F thermostate in.
Steve
Steve
#24
TerrA LX
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Posted 26 November 2006 - 11:57 PM
well i pulled the block welsh plugs on a 130K motor the other day and there was mud, scale and even large flakes in the bottom in a layer about 1 inch thick (no concrete tho). that was after i had already flushed the motor with the hose thru the top and bottom radiator hose.
i strongly suggest going to the trouble of R 'n' R the welsh plugs if you dont know the history of your motor.
i strongly suggest going to the trouble of R 'n' R the welsh plugs if you dont know the history of your motor.
Edited by ALX76, 26 November 2006 - 11:57 PM.
#25
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 01 December 2006 - 10:10 PM
Don't think the flush has helped much. I might try the thermostate.
Steve
Steve
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