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Overheating Problem -Blocked Cooling System


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#126 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 04:10 PM

firstly confirm your running temp with a probe thermometer.
correct me if im wrong but i think straight gas motors can run a little more initial timing but must still be limited close to the original max advance so if your dizzy has not been graphed, get it done now as 15 deg would be too high for a stock 173 and i would, for the mean time at least stick with 6 deg or around 10 deg if it is done.
a slight enrichment should cool it. again not sure on the gas thing.
twin thermos not a bad idea.
a bigger radiator may be needed running straight gas (you are running the stock one now right?)
it still sounds like the cooling system has not been ruled out of the equation.

#127 _73LJWhiteSL_

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Posted 16 March 2007 - 10:43 AM

Yes this sarga is still continuing, and yes I imagine your sick of seeing it and reading it, and i tell you what i am sick of it as well.

I drove to Adelaide and back Weds, Thurs this week, and the temp started at 180F, but the longer I drove the higher the temp went. Its definately not loosing water, when it hit 230 - 240 F I poured cold water over the radiator and opened the cap, and the radiator was completely full.

I am gonna borrow a big 6 blade engine fan of Dandy Radiators, and try that, but its really looking like I am gonna have to fork out for a bigger radiator. :cry: :cry: :cry:

Steve

#128 Tiny

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Posted 16 March 2007 - 11:50 AM

Ummmmm.... you opened the radiator cap while the temp read around 240F!? (ok.. after pouring the water over it.. still would have been boiling)

At that temp the water.. even if it had the perfect ammount of coolant should have been steam mate.

You've got a drama.. Can you trust that gauge? I'd suggest borrowing a laser thermometer to confirm the temps before you go too mad!

Good luck!

#129 _73LJWhiteSL_

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Posted 16 March 2007 - 11:54 AM

The water was bloody hot i will say that much, it sorta spat at me, so i put the cap back on and poured more water over the radiator and then opened it again.

I trust the gauge cause the whole flipping car was hot. It had to be at least 40 degrees in the car driving home, all the metal fittings inside the car (door handles, gearlever etc) were all hot to touch.

Steve

#130 Tiny

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Posted 16 March 2007 - 12:59 PM

No worries Steve, I know the feeling of a hot interior! shits ya with old cars hey..

Have you tried turning on the interior heater and fan to use that core like a little extra radiator? I wonder if doing this, and noting down what happens with the temps might give you some more idea of whether your radiator is too small or what not.

Alternatively.. winter is just around the corner :P

#131 _on the limit_

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Posted 16 March 2007 - 02:34 PM

G'day, i have'nt read all 9 pages, so some one may of suggested this already. My lc 5ltr was always running hot. I got the radiator flushed out on 2 occasions, new hoses, thermostat & housing, flushed the block out in the car 3 times & bigger thermo fans. Still running hot!! :furious: Ended up pulling the motor out to freshen it up 1 month ago, pulled out the welch pugs & the 2 plugs up the back were dry!! ended up removing about 2 handfulls of scale of the block (like small gravel) Flushed it out again, new welch plugs, new coolent & its running 20 - 25 degrees cooler. I'm as happy as a pig in shit!!! anyway, its abit extreme, but maybe an option!

#132 REDA9X

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Posted 16 March 2007 - 04:01 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=13370

read these it will help.

#133 _73LJWhiteSL_

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Posted 17 March 2007 - 12:22 PM

It has been suggested to pull the welsh plugs before and check the back of the block, and personaly if its that or $300+ for a new radiator I think I would find the motivation to pull the motor out and to do the welsh plugs (and replace the sump gasket at the same time!).

Thanks for the links guys.

Most of them talk first about increaseing the coolant flow. So would i be able to get a smaller pulley to fit on the water pump? Or did Holden just make the same sized pulley for the water pump?

I assume i could reaplace the water pump as well... its only $50 for a genuine one. I would never put a non genuine one in again... that caused overheating problems ages ago. Its definately running a genuine water pump.

Could i get a high performance pump as well?

Thanks

Steve

#134 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 17 March 2007 - 01:31 PM

Steve, Steve, Steve......sorry to hear this saga is still going. Replacing the water pump?.....Remember to decide if water flow is adequate or not, monitor the temperature of the water exiting the radiator, if the water coming out is similar temp to what is going in, then extra flow wont help.




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