Um, I just flicked through this again and I can't work out why this has been going on for so long and after all the advice only now yuou found chuncks in the radiator??? Did you flush the hoses and block and back flush it while you had it out being cleand, or did you just clean the radiator and stick it back in?
Overheating Problem -Blocked Cooling System
Started by
_73LJWhiteSL_
, Nov 21 2006 05:01 PM
133 replies to this topic
#102
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 24 December 2006 - 02:34 PM
Did cleaning the rad help at all? You put the elec fan in front of the rad? perhaps have the engine fan on hand to fit as well if you venture too far from home on a hot day.
#103
_1uzbt1_
_1uzbt1_
-
- Guests
Posted 24 December 2006 - 02:38 PM
Did you get it flushed out or did you get the tank taken off?Flushing rads when overheating and blocked is not worth jack,unless of course coin is a prob.It may get rid of any loose junk but any hard blockage will remain.
It never ceases to amaze me that people go through hell trying to fix a cooling prob and they do the rad last,it does 99%of your cooling.
It never ceases to amaze me that people go through hell trying to fix a cooling prob and they do the rad last,it does 99%of your cooling.
#104
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 24 December 2006 - 03:00 PM
Ok the first time I tried to flush the radiator i removed it from the car and stuck a hose in all three openings and pumped the water through quite hard. Obviously when i looked in the top i didn't look hard enough, cause the second time I looked I could see large chunks jammed in most of the tubes visable through the cap opening.
I took it to the radiator place and had the tanks removed and the whole core cleaned out. It did help the cooling when the car was moving, it didn't seem to keep getting hot when i was moving anymore, but was still a problem at idle.
When I got the radiator back I then stuck the garden hose in the heater hose and stuck my hand over the bottom hose of the radiator till the water ran out of the thermostate housing. I also jammed my finger into the thermostate housing to try and get a bit of preassure in the block as well when i was flushing it. I also flushed the heater core and gas converter seperately, and the block seperately. Not much crap came out. After flushing it I reinstalled the radiator and stuck one of those sock filters in the top radiator hose. I have cleaned that out twice now and found a small amount (tablespoon worth) of chuncks.
As I said in my last post i am fairly confident the problem is fixed now, but i will need a hot day to test it out.
Steve
I took it to the radiator place and had the tanks removed and the whole core cleaned out. It did help the cooling when the car was moving, it didn't seem to keep getting hot when i was moving anymore, but was still a problem at idle.
When I got the radiator back I then stuck the garden hose in the heater hose and stuck my hand over the bottom hose of the radiator till the water ran out of the thermostate housing. I also jammed my finger into the thermostate housing to try and get a bit of preassure in the block as well when i was flushing it. I also flushed the heater core and gas converter seperately, and the block seperately. Not much crap came out. After flushing it I reinstalled the radiator and stuck one of those sock filters in the top radiator hose. I have cleaned that out twice now and found a small amount (tablespoon worth) of chuncks.
As I said in my last post i am fairly confident the problem is fixed now, but i will need a hot day to test it out.
Steve
#105
gtrboyy
-
- Members
-
- 3,255 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Location:SYDNEY,NSW
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 24 December 2006 - 05:26 PM
I needed a 16in thermofan & vk radiator to keep my old 202 cool,worked well & never overheated after that even on the hottest days.It was heavily modified though.
#106
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 24 December 2006 - 06:09 PM
actually the radiator does about 60% with engine oil coming in second at around 25%, then there is the fuel itself etc etc, but lets not get down and out about it.It never ceases to amaze me that people go through hell trying to fix a cooling prob and they do the rad last,it does 99%of your cooling.
73LJWhiteSL; pls come back and let us know how you get on.
p.s. is it running ok in traffic, car parks and idling away etc.
#107
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 26 December 2006 - 09:36 AM
This is a bit harsh on Steve here, he was looking at everything before simply throwing some money at it. I dont think at any time he or people that responded to the thread ever had the idea that the radiator was not the primary medium through which heat is exchanged from the engine to the environment. The exact %s of where the heat is exchanged depends on airflow across the motor/sump itself~10% and a small amount due to hot body radiation and conduction to parts like the transmission, there is no other way for the heat to be transferred from the engine.It never ceases to amaze me that people go through hell trying to fix a cooling prob and they do the rad last,it does 99%of your cooling.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 26 December 2006 - 09:40 AM.
#108
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 January 2007 - 10:53 AM
Still having overheating problems, but i think its improving. Over the last few days i have been delivering yellow pages and had to tow a heavy trailer with the car on days that were in the mid 30s. It was gettting quite hot, around 220F again, but thats probably got more to do with the load i have been towing.
I have removed the mesh that I had infront of the radiator and have seen little difference, if any from removing it. Today I am gonna try and get the thermo fan hard up against the radiator since theres a slight 3/4" gap between the fan and the radiator and see if that helps. If shes still too hot I am gonna block off the holes either side of the bonnet striker plate and make sure all air going through the grill is going through the radiator.
Steve
I have removed the mesh that I had infront of the radiator and have seen little difference, if any from removing it. Today I am gonna try and get the thermo fan hard up against the radiator since theres a slight 3/4" gap between the fan and the radiator and see if that helps. If shes still too hot I am gonna block off the holes either side of the bonnet striker plate and make sure all air going through the grill is going through the radiator.
Steve
#109
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 January 2007 - 12:35 PM
If the extra load of a trailer makes it overheat(this can only be when you are moving) then you need more radiator and or more airflow, have you refitted the engine fan(thats what they are good at doing, providing flow when the motor is loaded)keep the elec fan in front of the rad....... see if that gets you through the hotter periods?
#110
rodomo
-
- Members
-
- 18,070 posts
To advertise here, call 13TORANA
- Name:R - O - B Dammit!
- Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
- Joined: 10-December 05
Posted 13 January 2007 - 12:03 AM
Extra load means more throttle. More throttle means more combustion pressure.
Is it O.K stationary? Like will the temp come down if its left to idle and the fan is running? I'll try to see if I can borrow the T.K. tester Winton weekend and I'll bring the Rangie fan.
Is it O.K stationary? Like will the temp come down if its left to idle and the fan is running? I'll try to see if I can borrow the T.K. tester Winton weekend and I'll bring the Rangie fan.
#111
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 13 January 2007 - 01:25 AM
^ you thinking a crack.
#112
rodomo
-
- Members
-
- 18,070 posts
To advertise here, call 13TORANA
- Name:R - O - B Dammit!
- Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
- Joined: 10-December 05
Posted 13 January 2007 - 07:36 AM
I've been leaning that way all along since he cooked it. Head gasket and or crack.
#113
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 January 2007 - 10:26 AM
Rodomo, I have got most of the next few weeks free during the day, so i am happy to come around and use that T.K. tester any day you are happy to. Just let me know.
It would probably be preferable to find out about the head & gasket before Winton.
My one objection to the cracked head/blown head gasket theory is the car doesn't seem to be down on power at all... but maybe its just a slight leak or something.
Steve
It would probably be preferable to find out about the head & gasket before Winton.
My one objection to the cracked head/blown head gasket theory is the car doesn't seem to be down on power at all... but maybe its just a slight leak or something.
Steve
#114
FastEHHolden
-
- Members
-
- 5,114 posts
Steptoe
- Location:Central Coast NSW
- Joined: 16-November 05
Posted 13 January 2007 - 11:42 AM
you can cut the base out of a 1.25L coke bottle...jam the neck of the bottle into the the top of the radiator and fill to about 1/2 way up the bottle and run the engine....if you have a combustion leak you will soon know from the bubbles..a bit at the start is normal and a bit after the themostat opens too but a healthy engine will stabilize.
This is a mammoth thread..and whilst I have read most of it..its a bit hard to keep up with it all.
Do you think your temp guage is accurate? especially considering the top came off the sender?
Or did you replace it after that happened?
I'm not going to try and start up a new argument RE clutch and viscous fans....suffice to say they are 2 different things..and its all to do with the amount of drive they transfer....If your hand was to make contact with the holden viscous fan...it would hurt like hell..but the fan would stop.
If your hand hit a Horton clutch fan that was locked up....start looking for your fingers and let your bleeding stumps do the walking for a surgeon.
I can see that terminology gets mixed and matched..and I too cringe when things get incorrectly labelled...(favourite at the moment is "Pinking" Vs "Pinging")..but unfortunately an internet argument wont set the world straight.
This is a mammoth thread..and whilst I have read most of it..its a bit hard to keep up with it all.
Do you think your temp guage is accurate? especially considering the top came off the sender?
Or did you replace it after that happened?
I'm not going to try and start up a new argument RE clutch and viscous fans....suffice to say they are 2 different things..and its all to do with the amount of drive they transfer....If your hand was to make contact with the holden viscous fan...it would hurt like hell..but the fan would stop.
If your hand hit a Horton clutch fan that was locked up....start looking for your fingers and let your bleeding stumps do the walking for a surgeon.
I can see that terminology gets mixed and matched..and I too cringe when things get incorrectly labelled...(favourite at the moment is "Pinking" Vs "Pinging")..but unfortunately an internet argument wont set the world straight.
#115
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 January 2007 - 12:14 PM
I had to replace the sender cause the top came off it. I have taken the tempreture gauge in to be check by a gauge place and they said it was working perfectly.Do you think your temp guage is accurate? especially considering the top came off the sender?
Or did you replace it after that happened?
Thanks for the suggestions people.
I do apologies that this thread has gotten so huge, but the simple fact is i have had minimal money over the last 12 months and i can't afford to just throw money at the car, unless i know its gonna fix the problem.
I will see if i can do the bottle test sometime over the next few days. I have just spent the morning mounting the thermo fan as close to the front of the radiator as i can. I will see if that makes a difference as well.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 13 January 2007 - 12:20 PM.
#116
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 13 January 2007 - 02:49 PM
keep the thread open till its fixed i say.
if you have ruled out the cooling system by way of no blockages internal or external, cap is good, water pump ok, fans working etc yhen its time to look elsewhere,
engine, test compression and leak tests as above.
also timing.
evolution has turned pinking into pinging.
if you have ruled out the cooling system by way of no blockages internal or external, cap is good, water pump ok, fans working etc yhen its time to look elsewhere,
engine, test compression and leak tests as above.
also timing.
evolution has turned pinking into pinging.
#117
FastEHHolden
-
- Members
-
- 5,114 posts
Steptoe
- Location:Central Coast NSW
- Joined: 16-November 05
Posted 13 January 2007 - 04:53 PM
cringe..I think vicky verka
but I would rather not debate it....I 'll bet Chopper is getting regular updates on this one.
but I would rather not debate it....I 'll bet Chopper is getting regular updates on this one.
#118
rodomo
-
- Members
-
- 18,070 posts
To advertise here, call 13TORANA
- Name:R - O - B Dammit!
- Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
- Joined: 10-December 05
Posted 14 January 2007 - 09:49 AM
"Pinking" can be caused by engine running hot.
#119
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 17 January 2007 - 01:53 PM
gday all,
I took the car in to get the cooling system checked today. The cooling system has been checked and according to the computer there is no sign of Hydo Carbons in the cooling system. So i guess this rules out cracked head or blown head gasket.
The guy also stuck one of them temp guns on the coolling system and it was showing around 180 - 190F at the top hose and 145 - 150F when the temp gauge was saying around 230F.
So now i have the following things to look at
-Adjust the timing. Its currently at 12 degrees advanced. I am going to drop it to 6 and increase it to 18 and see if that makes any difference.
-I am going to take it to the gas place and get the carb tuned. The computer said it was running rich at idle.
-Get the whole cooling system cleaned.
Steve
I took the car in to get the cooling system checked today. The cooling system has been checked and according to the computer there is no sign of Hydo Carbons in the cooling system. So i guess this rules out cracked head or blown head gasket.
The guy also stuck one of them temp guns on the coolling system and it was showing around 180 - 190F at the top hose and 145 - 150F when the temp gauge was saying around 230F.
So now i have the following things to look at
-Adjust the timing. Its currently at 12 degrees advanced. I am going to drop it to 6 and increase it to 18 and see if that makes any difference.
-I am going to take it to the gas place and get the carb tuned. The computer said it was running rich at idle.
-Get the whole cooling system cleaned.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 17 January 2007 - 01:53 PM.
#120
Tiny
-
- Administrators
-
- 10,018 posts
Oh My, Don't you post alot
- Name:Tiny
- Location:Sydney
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 17 January 2007 - 02:28 PM
So.... Have you checked the accuracy of your temp gauge?
is it a mechanical gauge? Do you have one you could swap it for to see if all this is caused by a dodgey gauge?
Cheers
is it a mechanical gauge? Do you have one you could swap it for to see if all this is caused by a dodgey gauge?
Cheers
#121
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 17 January 2007 - 03:34 PM
145-150F? temp of bottom hose?The guy also stuck one of them temp guns on the coolling system and it was showing around 180 - 190F at the top hose and 145 - 150F when the temp gauge was saying around 230F.
Based on what you have described, only your gauge is the problem?
#122
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 17 January 2007 - 03:59 PM
The gauge is just the standard GTR cluster one, so no its not a mechanical one. When the guage was showing ~230F, and when he stuck the gun on the sender it said around ~250F. But he said its hard to tell there where the water jacket is.
I have had the guage tested by an instrument repairer and according to them there is nothing wrong with the gauge. I am sure the sender is the correct 180F sender as well.
I am wondering if it is worth putting temp senders in the thermostate housing and top and bottom hoses with a switch so the same gauge can show what each sender is saying. That might give me more info about what temp the water is getting to where.
Steve
I have had the guage tested by an instrument repairer and according to them there is nothing wrong with the gauge. I am sure the sender is the correct 180F sender as well.
I am wondering if it is worth putting temp senders in the thermostate housing and top and bottom hoses with a switch so the same gauge can show what each sender is saying. That might give me more info about what temp the water is getting to where.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 17 January 2007 - 04:03 PM.
#123
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 17 January 2007 - 04:38 PM
Steve, get yourself a basic accurate thermometer to test the temp of the water in the top tank of the rad (just taking the rad cap off) when your engine is at running temp This will allow you to make some calibration of your gauge.
You can buy a basic digital probe for $20 that can put in the top tank when the engine is at running temp, or you could buy a basic 0-110C alcohol thermometer, cheaper.....but easier to break.
Yes putting the same sensor in different places is really the only way to find out what happens when on the road, but really was hoping you'd have it sorted before resorting to that. Was the person who tested the temps for you of not much help otherwise, or did they make any suggestions?
I take it you haven't resorted to putting the eng fan back on yet?
You can buy a basic digital probe for $20 that can put in the top tank when the engine is at running temp, or you could buy a basic 0-110C alcohol thermometer, cheaper.....but easier to break.
Yes putting the same sensor in different places is really the only way to find out what happens when on the road, but really was hoping you'd have it sorted before resorting to that. Was the person who tested the temps for you of not much help otherwise, or did they make any suggestions?
I take it you haven't resorted to putting the eng fan back on yet?
#124
rodomo
-
- Members
-
- 18,070 posts
To advertise here, call 13TORANA
- Name:R - O - B Dammit!
- Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
- Joined: 10-December 05
Posted 18 January 2007 - 12:11 AM
Glad to hear its not the head 
Does this mean I cancel the TK tester?
Does this mean I cancel the TK tester?
#125
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 18 January 2007 - 01:14 PM
I haven't put the engine fan back on yet DA, cause its a pain in the bum to put on and off without pulling the radiator out. The guy who tested it suggested several things.
-Check and adjust the timing (make sure it wasn't running to advanced or retarded)
-Put the orginal engine fan back on
-Twin Thermos
-Bigger Radiator
-Get the carb tuned again (it was running a little rich at idle)
-Set the thermo to come on earlier (Bit hard with the thermo switch i have as its already set nearly as low as possible)
Since yesterday, i have set the thermo as low as i can, and have fiddled with the timing. The timing was set around 10 degrees advanced, i tired it at 6 degrees, and then at 15 and it seems to run fine at 15, but i don't see a lot if any difference tempwise.
Yes thanks for the offer Rob, but I don't need the T.K. tester anymore.
Steve
-Check and adjust the timing (make sure it wasn't running to advanced or retarded)
-Put the orginal engine fan back on
-Twin Thermos
-Bigger Radiator
-Get the carb tuned again (it was running a little rich at idle)
-Set the thermo to come on earlier (Bit hard with the thermo switch i have as its already set nearly as low as possible)
Since yesterday, i have set the thermo as low as i can, and have fiddled with the timing. The timing was set around 10 degrees advanced, i tired it at 6 degrees, and then at 15 and it seems to run fine at 15, but i don't see a lot if any difference tempwise.
Yes thanks for the offer Rob, but I don't need the T.K. tester anymore.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 18 January 2007 - 01:16 PM.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
