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Polishing aluminium


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#26 LX 0076

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Posted 27 January 2008 - 04:38 PM

Have the wiper arms and motor/fan covers just been polished or chromed ? Nice work on all those items Jeremy. Ive got a multi tool with scotch brite belt and mop wheel, what polish / compound should i use to get your type results.
Thanks Jayson. :spoton:

#27 _Herne_

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Posted 27 January 2008 - 05:30 PM

Hi Jayson

Every item you see on that table has been polished this includes heater motor coversv and wiper arms.

I will leave it to Jeremy to tell you what compounds he uses.

Cheers
Herne

#28 _j7723_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 09:42 AM

^ have you ran a pump with the ribs removed before? Does it create any problems?
I thought the 253 was sold?

ALX76 I have run a water pump on my old motor like this and have one for my new motor and it runs a 471 supercharger and have had no problems :spoton:
After all the water pump only job is to move water not cooling

#29 _j7723_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 09:48 AM

Have the wiper arms and motor/fan covers just been polished or chromed ? Nice work on all those items Jeremy. Ive got a multi tool with scotch brite belt and mop wheel, what polish / compound should i use to get your type results.
Thanks Jayson. :spoton:

Jayson if you can give me a photo of this multi tool I can advise you better but for now use the white polish block on you soft wheel and if you do your wipper arms stay away from the scotch wheel as the metel is thin and you will mark it also time is the bigest thing it takes a while :rockon:

#30 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 10:05 AM

ALX76 I have run a water pump on my old motor like this and have one for my new motor and it runs a 471 supercharger and have had no problems :spoton:
After all the water pump only job is to move water not cooling

Cheers, was more concerned with bearing failure with the ribs removed but you have had no probs with that.

#31 _j7723_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 10:15 AM



ALX76 I have run a water pump on my old motor like this and have one for my new motor and it runs a 471 supercharger and have had no problems  :spoton:
After all the water pump only job is to move water not cooling

Cheers, was more concerned with bearing failure with the ribs removed but you have had no probs with that.

I did cover the holes in the water pump so that no dust got into the bearing as for heat I was not worryed as they get hot all the time :spoton:

#32 _Herne_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 11:55 AM

Have the wiper arms and motor/fan covers just been polished or chromed ? Nice work on all those items Jeremy. Ive got a multi tool with scotch brite belt and mop wheel, what polish / compound should i use to get your type results.
Thanks Jayson. :spoton:

Jayson if you can give me a photo of this multi tool I can advise you better but for now use the white polish block on you soft wheel and if you do your wipper arms stay away from the scotch wheel as the metel is thin and you will mark it also time is the bigest thing it takes a while :rockon:

Hi Jayson

these white polishing blocks Jeremy speaks of are available at Bunnings and all good hardware stores. There is also a courser brown one available and for all I know there may be different grades but I am unsure of this. The blocks would measure somewhere around 6" to 8" each, they are not expensive and from memory maybe $20.00? per bar.
Jeremy has suggested to use the white only - good advice for sure but if you experiment with the brown then use it first and finish off with the white and finally something like Purple polish by hand. Its a dirty messy job thats for certain.

Have fun

Cheers
Herne

Edited by Herne, 29 January 2008 - 11:56 AM.


#33 Orange SS

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 12:19 PM

The polish bars are called Rouge: and are commonly used in high school metal work classes and by jewellery polishers.
(Rouge - A product traditionally made of iron oxide, pulverised and graded, used in jewellery work. the finer grains are called rouge (French for "red") and are used for polishing steel and precious metals. Rouge is often mixed with a binder and caked into a bar form for easy application to a buffing wheel)

I use it on my mags every 6 months or so, firstly the darker, then white followed by some autosol. It works great, and is long lasting.

#34 _j7723_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 12:54 PM

The polish bars are called Rouge: and are commonly used in high school metal work classes and by jewellery polishers.
(Rouge - A product traditionally made of iron oxide, pulverised and graded, used in jewellery work. the finer grains are called rouge (French for "red") and are used for polishing steel and precious metals. Rouge is often mixed with a binder and caked into a bar form for easy application to a buffing wheel)

I use it on my mags every 6 months or so, firstly the darker, then white followed by some autosol. It works great, and is long lasting.

thanks orange ss grate to know what I use I have never bothered to find out I will say autosol will put in fine marks in top jobs so try purple or miorror finnish both are at rear spares :rockon:

#35 LX 0076

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 03:30 PM

I would love to post a photo of my multi tool but i am possibly the worlds worst computer driver i kid you not! It is a machine that attaches to one side of your bench grinder, you can buy sanding belts, linishing belts,scotchbrite belts etc. You see old guys at hardware store open days sharpening sciccors, polishing golf clubs etc,etc. I once rebuilt a trail bike and used the scotch belt to roughly polish the aluminium swing arm and forks. Worked ok on these big beefy items. With the wiper arms do i need to remove the silver with paint stripper or similar, or just polish away with the rag wheel and white rouge. Thanks to Jeremy, Herne and Orange SS on this one, really appreciate it guys.
Jayson

#36 _Herne_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 03:41 PM

Thanks to Jeremy, Herne and Orange SS on this one, really appreciate it guys.
Jayson

Hi Jayson, I reckon thats why we are all members of this forum, to help each other out :) Although at times we can bag each other out pretty well too lol.

Cheers
Herne

#37 _j7723_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 04:20 PM

jayson is your soft wheel like the ones in the photo of my buff ?

#38 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 04:31 PM

I would love to post a photo of my multi tool

is your soft wheel like the ones in the photo of my buff ?

The topic still is polishing alloy right?

#39 _j7723_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 04:55 PM

I would love to post a photo of my multi tool

is your soft wheel like the ones in the photo of my buff ?

The topic still is polishing alloy right?

as I have said the people that cant polish chrome


My girlfriend hates chrome :tease:

#40 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 05:00 PM

Better not, this topic is already a sticky...

#41 LX 0076

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 05:41 PM

Exactly the same with the tapered spindal Jeremy

#42 _why-psi_

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 07:39 PM

heres my aluminum polishing.
from this
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to this
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never polishing again.

#43 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 January 2008 - 07:54 PM

How rewarding is the before and after eh?

#44 _j7723_

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 08:02 AM

jayson use the white polish on the soft wheel and the paint will buff off or you can paint strip but I just buff off the paint :rockon:

nice job why psi

#45 LX 0076

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 04:07 PM

Purchased white polish and new cloth buff, will try this weekend. If i can work the camera and computer i will try and post pics! Actually ill get my seven year old daughter to do that for me :tease:

#46 _j7723_

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 05:17 PM

cool cant wait to see your work :rockon:

#47 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 01:03 PM

Ok guys, heres a quick tutorial of how to polish aluminium BOMBER STYLE!!!

Please note, although no explosives are used in the polishing of this aluminium, i still dont guarantee anything, read the disclaimer.

Ok, Start off with a nice brand new thermostat housing.
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Take a real good close look at the job, and note any imperfections, casting flash pin holes, and things like that that wont look to good later. Heres a couple of trouble spots i noted.

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See the casting flash in this pick, also notice how deeply pitted the factory cast is.

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This bit Is also a bit of a problem area, although not as big. Strait out of the box it had these ugly sanding marks, aswell as a bit of flash here and there, this all must be removed.

So first tool off the rank is my 3" air sander.

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I started off with an 80g sanding disk on it, then went to brown scotch brite, then red. If i had a blue one i woulda used that to but im all out.

The 80g sanding disk was used to remove the casting flash i noted before, aswell as some other little imperfections. Then i used the scotch brite pads to remove all the rough cast finish so it was all nice and smooth, and looked something like this.

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Next tool off the rank was my Handy Dandy 6" random.

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I started sanding the Item with 180 grit, then went to 320 grit, then 800 grit. Make sure that you completley remove scratch marks from the stage before with each stage. So with the 180 you get rid of the scratch marks from the 3" sander, then 320 gets rid of the 180 scratch marks, then 800 gets rid of the 320 scratch marks. You end up with something that looks like this.

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Next its time for the actual polishing.

I just use Josco wheels on my 6" bench sander, everything you need is available from bunnings.

I start off with a T shirt material buff with the brown compound.
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Then i go to a calico buff with white compound.
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And there ya go. Pwetty, in probably a bit over half an hour and just about no manual labour.

Cheers.

#48 Heath

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 01:17 PM

omg that is horny as!!! Thanks DJ!

#49 _j7723_

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 08:45 AM

top job and for my next a brake boster will let you know how it comes out

#50 MRLXSS

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 08:52 AM

wow, that seems easy as! If only i had all the tools at my disposal to use!




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