My Hatchback Rebuild
Started by
_Barman_
, Apr 14 2008 06:54 PM
548 replies to this topic
#26
_Barman_
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Posted 18 April 2008 - 08:08 PM
Ive got a SL/R with flares and it looks great ,but you dont see too many unflared hatches nowdays.. still like the manderine or valecia... got to make up my mind by tommorrow , buyin paint in the AM...
#27
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 12:21 PM
Drama saturday, My dog (3yr old male Rotti with nuts) jumped our fence and then tryed to jump another and got hung up,wire through toes and dislocated rear leg, hes OK now after 160 clams at the vet,
anyway got primer done and ive decided to go with velecia orange, guide coat and colour Sunday
anyway got primer done and ive decided to go with velecia orange, guide coat and colour Sunday
#28
_Brewster_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 12:28 PM
How long did that rubbing back with sand paper take you?
#29
_Barman_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 12:44 PM
Most of it i done with a wire wheel on 5" grinder and then i used 600grit wet and dry, didnt take long at all 2days
#30
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 02:28 PM
Couldnt wait, primer dry guide coat rubbed and colour on..
didnt do engine bay im not happy with prep work yet..
didnt do engine bay im not happy with prep work yet..
#31
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 04:38 PM
Looks the goods mate. Wish i hada done under mine a bit better now, might have to give it a flick while its pulled apart again 
But yeah yourse looks real good so a bit of inspiration there.
But yeah yourse looks real good so a bit of inspiration there.
#32
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Posted 20 April 2008 - 04:50 PM
Painted and refited fuel/ charcoal canister/ brake line today looks good sorry no pics, maybe later
#33
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Posted 22 April 2008 - 07:53 PM
Cleaned the inside and rubbed it back primer and painr soon..
#34
_evilsim_
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Posted 22 April 2008 - 09:02 PM
Whoah ... Nice work Baz. I better come around and check it out.
#35
Toranavista
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Posted 26 April 2008 - 10:42 AM
Looking good 
#36
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Posted 27 July 2008 - 03:58 PM
Talked to a lad today (in the pub) about my toranas,
he says ive got some old parts lyin around my place, come and have a look,if you want
(damn near broke my neck to get there)
he had a heap of vals eh and in the scrub i spotted a canadian f100,
it had the 9 inch 3.70-1 LSD ref pic
and then he says i think theres a couple of those in the shed, got them aswell
2.75-1 and 4.0-1 open centres (in a bucket)
for FREE Made my day
Thanks Baz
he says ive got some old parts lyin around my place, come and have a look,if you want
(damn near broke my neck to get there)
he had a heap of vals eh and in the scrub i spotted a canadian f100,
it had the 9 inch 3.70-1 LSD ref pic
and then he says i think theres a couple of those in the shed, got them aswell
2.75-1 and 4.0-1 open centres (in a bucket)
for FREE Made my day
Thanks Baz
#37
_HatchmanSS76_
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 11:58 AM
Quick update , just absolutly flogging the mig with badge holes and some cracks in the doors, Thinking about welding all the seams, but ive heard its not good as it stiffens body too much, any thoughts, (ive got the mig for 3weeks.pics later.
Bit late now I supose as you have put paint down, sorry I've only just notice the thread.
Adding some extra welds on the seems will help stiffen it up more. Thats what they did on the race cars. Don't weld the the full length (continuous) of the seems as the body does need to flex a little and if you weld the full length of the seem it will surely crack the welds at some point. With the seem welds broken it may only break some of the welds and not keep going like it would if it was continuous.
I like your rotisery.
#38
myss427
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 01:50 PM
I have had mine fully seam welded for over 10 years, no cracks yet!
#39
MRLXSS
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 01:55 PM
looking great barman!!! Great colour choice!
#40
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 03:05 PM
Gotta love an orange hatch !!!
#41
_HatchmanSS76_
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 04:01 PM
I have had mine fully seam welded for over 10 years, no cracks yet!
Well that stuffs that theory
Maybe your not driving it hard enough
#42
myss427
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 04:36 PM
Its only a weekend warrior, so when I drive it its usually sideways.
#43
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 28 July 2008 - 09:14 PM
The reason that seams are usually stitch welded is to prevent a crack travelling the length of the seam. If a crack appears in a stitch welded seam it will usually be limited to a single one inch weld. If the weld runs the length of the seam then eventually the crack will also travel the length of the seam.
#44
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Posted 17 August 2008 - 08:01 PM
Well ive come into some money and ive got some ideas,
Wilsons flares,
service trans,
reseal 9"bushes etc
stroker crank/ bottom end kit
service my L34 heads
hoppers brakes, Do they come in torana stud patern?
wheels, show wheels "streeters" Does anyone have thes on a flared hatch?
If so what back space and off set do i need?
Ive started on diff, Pics later
any sugestions.....im probably going to get most of my machining work(block bored and cleaned and cam brgs) (heads etc)and tranny work in Rocky can anyone recomend someone???
Baz
Wilsons flares,
service trans,
reseal 9"bushes etc
stroker crank/ bottom end kit
service my L34 heads
hoppers brakes, Do they come in torana stud patern?
wheels, show wheels "streeters" Does anyone have thes on a flared hatch?
If so what back space and off set do i need?
Ive started on diff, Pics later
any sugestions.....im probably going to get most of my machining work(block bored and cleaned and cam brgs) (heads etc)and tranny work in Rocky can anyone recomend someone???
Baz
#45
RIM-010
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Posted 17 August 2008 - 08:12 PM
Stay flareless With big wheels. The Streeters, IMO, are more suited to the more classic shaped cars... Pre-HQ stuff. I'm fairly sure that you can get Hoppers brakes in Torana stud.
Tim
With big wheels. The Streeters, IMO, are more suited to the more classic shaped cars... Pre-HQ stuff. I'm fairly sure that you can get Hoppers brakes in Torana stud.Tim
#46
GML-31
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Posted 17 August 2008 - 08:24 PM
Seeing rory doesnt seem to have answered you....Reasons why?? replace it with rubber or "Super pro" please explain rorym
They can melt from the extractors especially if they are not HPC coated, better with rubber or a 2nd metal knuckle joint
#47
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Posted 17 August 2008 - 08:27 PM
Stay flareless
Tim
no way, I wanna see flares
anyway, its you thats forking out the dough, so it is your decision in the end
#48
_Barman_
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Posted 17 August 2008 - 08:28 PM
Ive got "Pacemaker" extractors where can i get them HPC coated?
Baz
Baz
#49
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Posted 18 August 2008 - 09:24 AM
Well ive come into some money and ive got some ideas,
Wilsons flares,
service trans,
reseal 9"bushes etc
stroker crank/ bottom end kit
service my L34 heads
hoppers brakes, Do they come in torana stud patern?
wheels, show wheels "streeters" Does anyone have thes on a flared hatch?
If so what back space and off set do i need?
Ive started on diff, Pics later
any sugestions.....im probably going to get most of my machining work(block bored and cleaned and cam brgs) (heads etc)and tranny work in Rocky can anyone recomend someone???
Baz
SWEEEEEEEET!!!
If you go 10" wide on the back, and you have a standard length diff. 5" Backspace is what you want. If you get a sorter diff etc take it off the backspace (1" shorter each side, means 4" Backspace)
Pretty sure i am right, if im not someone will correct me!
Can't wait to see this project progress!!!!!
#50
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Posted 18 August 2008 - 03:40 PM
And for the front?
18x8 Streeter 4.75" BS 5-108
Is this 5stud 108mm patern?
I copyed thfrom the show wheels site is this what i need for the rear.?
thanks
Baz
18x8 Streeter 4.75" BS 5-108
Is this 5stud 108mm patern?
I copyed thfrom the show wheels site is this what i need for the rear.?
thanks
Baz
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