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Fitting a R31 Skyline B/W diff to LH/X


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#176 76lxhatch

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 10:26 PM

that's not the issue, I can geet the connection changed, my only worry is will the brakes work with said master cyl/booster setup.

Easiest way would be to change the flare nut on the hard line at the rear to a metric one. Normal stuff about changing proportioning valve to suit rear discs and removing residual pressure valve apply but you can keep the existing master.

#177 _tyre fryer_

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Posted 22 July 2010 - 12:19 AM


that's not the issue, I can geet the connection changed, my only worry is will the brakes work with said master cyl/booster setup.

Easiest way would be to change the flare nut on the hard line at the rear to a metric one. Normal stuff about changing proportioning valve to suit rear discs and removing residual pressure valve apply but you can keep the existing master.

That's exactly what I needed to hear, and the stuff with the prop. valve goes without saying, luckily I have a VERY good brake good that is always happy to help.

Paul, I'll give them a ring tomorrow and see if they can price match, might even get a price war going on between the two.

#178 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 26 July 2010 - 06:13 PM

got my diff back today,

ready to go, total cost was $957.

this included

rewelding the bracketry redrilling axles and rotors, new pinion bearings, and also setting it up correctly with the LSD center i provided. Pretty happy with the results.

Took them 2.5 weeks like they said it would. No problems.

i have a question though. What tailshaft are you other boys using??? is there an easy solution, or do i need a custom shaft?

#179 76lxhatch

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Posted 26 July 2010 - 09:18 PM

Just get a suitable rear yoke welded on to your existing driveshaft (it will need to be cut slightly shorter so not a problem) and have it balanced, cheap enough

#180 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 05:06 PM

Since I'm running a 9inch ATM, it'll probably be too short. might have to find a standard shaft then.

#181 _keg006_

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 05:53 PM

Hi Chmois hatch, can i ask you where you got your diff done? Which diff did you supply them? And roughly how much did you shorten them by. I got some crazy prices quoted as of yesterday. One diff place refused to do a uc torana to B/W. I plan on keeping a commodore pattern and brakes.

Cheers

#182 76lxhatch

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 06:43 PM

Since I'm running a 9inch ATM, it'll probably be too short. might have to find a standard shaft then.

The flange on the BW adds extra length (requiring shorter shaft) compared to a U bolt type yoke - hopefully you may just squeak in if they cut the weld off on the lathe to avoid losing too much length

#183 UCMatt

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 11:33 AM

Hi Chmois hatch, can i ask you where you got your diff done? Which diff did you supply them? And roughly how much did you shorten them by. I got some crazy prices quoted as of yesterday. One diff place refused to do a uc torana to B/W. I plan on keeping a commodore pattern and brakes.

Cheers


I would be interested to hear what others experience was like with UC B/W conversions. The UC upper arms are much closer together (~280mm V ~400mm) than the LH/LX, placing the upper mounting points over the cast housing. Using 2 short VN axles and centering the housing, still places the majority of welding over the cast steel housing, which I suspect will cause problems when it comes to engineering.

Cheers
Matt

#184 _rorym_

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 11:52 AM

got my diff back today,

ready to go, total cost was $957.

this included

rewelding the bracketry redrilling axles and rotors, new pinion bearings, and also setting it up correctly with the LSD center i provided. Pretty happy with the results.

Took them 2.5 weeks like they said it would. No problems.

i have a question though. What tailshaft are you other boys using??? is there an easy solution, or do i need a custom shaft?


Both of mine were custom made for the Toploader to B/W.
R

#185 _brett_32i_

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 09:11 PM

no problms welding housing if its done by a profesional.

#186 _@milco@_

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 03:41 PM

i have spoken to two different engineers here in vic and one had told me he will not cert the diff conversion due to the axels being redrilled have you guys had any issues? has any one else completed this exact conversion and had it fully engineered in vic?

#187 76lxhatch

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 07:42 PM

I had no problems here. What do the guys do with the Commodore axles, I doubt they all run Commodore wheels?

#188 _markbeath_

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Posted 26 November 2010 - 10:48 AM

Just to clarify as it was asked before, im building a 355 stroker with a 5 speed and really like this conversion but just want to make sure its strong enough if built right?

#189 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 26 November 2010 - 12:46 PM

The short answer is probably, which 5 spedd do you have?

There are many variables involved including

Engine torque
First gear ratio
Tyres/Slicks
Driving style
Diff centre
Welding quality and upper arm bracket design

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 November 2010 - 12:47 PM.


#190 _markbeath_

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Posted 29 November 2010 - 10:11 AM

The short answer is probably, which 5 spedd do you have?

There are many variables involved including

Engine torque
First gear ratio
Tyres/Slicks
Driving style
Diff centre
Welding quality and upper arm bracket design


Well i'll be building the everything over the next year but will most likely have the Tremec TKO.

The car will running street tyres and run mainly on the street with the usual occasional track/strip.

#191 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 29 November 2010 - 11:08 AM

Had you said a W58 then I think the gearbox would be the weakest link in the drivetrain.

On street tyres you should not have any problems with the BW78. However I would replace the BW LSD with a Lokka or KAAZ.

#192 DanWA

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 11:59 AM

What sort of offset/backspacing can you run with these diffs?

Hoping to get VL Calais rims on atleast for the beginning but i've got my eye on some 8.5" convo pros that fit perfectly on a VH

#193 _@milco@_

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 12:16 PM

i have 15x10" rims with 5" back spacing on my lx sedan and and i still have room on the inside but with the l34 flares i have very little room on the flare side,

i will be getting my rims changed to 4.75 back spacing as this a better backspacing for a lx sedan

but there is heaps of clearance inregards to the diff.

#194 DanWA

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 01:20 PM

yeah i did search before hand and people were generally flared like rory's etc

i'm not into flares so i'm trying to work out what i can get under the stock guards

#195 DanWA

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 02:56 PM

15x8.5 with a 3 3/8 backspace is one set i've been looking at

#196 76lxhatch

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:08 PM

Those might just fit with flares, but I'd say no chance without. I have 15x10s and had to get them modified to increase the backspace from 4.25" to 5.25" to fit nicely. At a rough guess you're going to want an 8" wheel to be around the same (5" maybe a touch more) backspace to fit well with unflared guards and the standard width Skyline diff.

#197 DanWA

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:23 PM

ok might just need to stick to vl calais rims until i can order some custom backspaced rims

#198 DanWA

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:27 PM

cheers by the way!

#199 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 January 2011 - 09:17 AM

You will need at absolute minimum 4" backspace with 8" rims without flares

#200 DanWA

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 05:37 PM

mmmm plenty of 8" pro stars around with 4.75" backspace




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