that should have read 3 3/8th backspace
a set has come up... 8" with 4.5" backspace... would these absolutely fit?
the fronts have 3.5"
Also... for Perth people... after waiting way too long for my brother's boss to do my diff rang Final Drive in Oconnor
$400 to mod the housing (i bought bracketry kit from mc donald bros) and fit new top arms
$200 to mod axles and re-drill the rotors
Rang everywhere for blank rotors and everywhere said the same thing (need to order 50)
The Mc Donald bros kit was $160 delivered
Just thought i'd add that for Perth people!
Fitting a R31 Skyline B/W diff to LH/X
Started by
_rorym_
, Aug 10 2008 11:00 AM
310 replies to this topic
#201
DanWA
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Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:47 PM
#202
_mad350_
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 07:12 PM
dose any one know the axle lenghts of the skyline diff?
#203
_Torrie_Man_
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Posted 08 March 2012 - 06:54 PM
Am i going to run into problems fitting commodore rear brakes to a skyline diff?
#205
_abtorana_
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Posted 09 March 2012 - 12:49 PM
type in
MR-SPARESin "seller search" on ebay,says he can drill any pattern in these CNC machined rotors
regards adam
#206
_Torrie_Man_
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Posted 09 March 2012 - 10:31 PM
ahh ok, anyone got any luck with the blank rotors yet? My parts guy had no luck. He was also told minimum of 50 to do blanks.
#207
MR77LX
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Posted 12 March 2012 - 05:54 PM
Hey Guys,
Great thread with heaps of info!
Just a quick question and sorry if it has already been spoken about.
I want to order a set of Show wheels. 17x7 fronts and 18x8 rears.
What size backspace do i need for an LX torana with flares. 4.5" all round?
I have 290mil hopper stoppers brakes at the front and R31 Diff at rear (28 spline)
Thank You
Great thread with heaps of info!
Just a quick question and sorry if it has already been spoken about.
I want to order a set of Show wheels. 17x7 fronts and 18x8 rears.
What size backspace do i need for an LX torana with flares. 4.5" all round?
I have 290mil hopper stoppers brakes at the front and R31 Diff at rear (28 spline)
Thank You
#208
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Posted 24 August 2012 - 02:20 PM
hi guys has any one got pick of how to mod the propotional valve please and anything else i need to do for the disk rear?
#209
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Posted 13 September 2012 - 09:03 AM
has anyone in NZ done this mod????? message me please
#210
TUF 308
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Posted 14 September 2012 - 04:25 PM
hi guys has any one got pick of how to mod the propotional valve please and anything else i need to do for the disk rear?
http://www.gmh-toran...lhx-rear-discs/
Just do this conversion, Much better pedal feel than standard torana booster anyday.
#211
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Posted 11 May 2013 - 10:27 AM
Ok so ive noticed people in this thread saying their diff builders have turned down the r31 diff and said go with a vn diff?
Soo... I should disregard the r31 diff as an option? or...
Also, to go down this path, what cost am i looking at for each thing i need to get done for the conversion?
Thanks.
#212
Posted 11 May 2013 - 05:57 PM
I think someone here suggested it was because with the VN diff having to be narrowed they could place the cast centre in such a position as to use the maximum amount of axle tube both sides for welding the upper mounts to. This isn't a big difference:
(The above is R31, note by keeping the original position it keeps the driveshaft fairly central). Personally I think if they're that concerned about welding to the cast steel then they're not the right person to be doing so. Once the mounts have been removed there is no other difference between a VN housing and an R31 housing other than it has already been shortened for you!
The other possible issue is converting the R31 axles from four to five stud; again this can be done by a suitable competent person with the right equipment. If you really don't like the idea then you can just get aftermarket axles.
The attraction of the R31 unit is less modification - if you plan on narrowing it then it doesn't matter which one you start with, they will require equal amounts of work.
(The above is R31, note by keeping the original position it keeps the driveshaft fairly central). Personally I think if they're that concerned about welding to the cast steel then they're not the right person to be doing so. Once the mounts have been removed there is no other difference between a VN housing and an R31 housing other than it has already been shortened for you!
The other possible issue is converting the R31 axles from four to five stud; again this can be done by a suitable competent person with the right equipment. If you really don't like the idea then you can just get aftermarket axles.
The attraction of the R31 unit is less modification - if you plan on narrowing it then it doesn't matter which one you start with, they will require equal amounts of work.
#213
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Posted 12 May 2013 - 09:47 AM
im currently most the way through my skyline install. its working out great and cheaper.
the guy at diff r us Auckland changed the mounts re drilled the axles and rotors all for 1300.
havnt done the hand brake cables yet. or drive shaft. but i dont see anything been to much of an issue.
just keep talking to people on here. they will help you where ever they can.
#214
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Posted 15 May 2013 - 02:09 PM
So i just got a reply from kreative engineering:
"This std diff width for the LX is 1435mm, I can shorten a borgy down to this size (changing width can affect price). If you supply, bare LX housing, and stripped apart borgy (left centre in we will R&R for jigging), you can cut off bracket and grind up borgy smooth if capable. Cost will be $1150 for shortening, install bracketry, respline axle, supply and fit wheel bearing kits. Add $125 more for us to de-bracket borgy and grind up."
Is this a good price? Also, the skyline diff is about the right size without shortening correct? So if i supplied a diff that didn't need to be shortened i gather the cost would drop a fair bit?
#215
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Posted 15 May 2013 - 03:30 PM
Yes, yes and yes.
#216
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Posted 15 May 2013 - 03:40 PM
McDonald Bros do a bracket kit you can buy to save you having to cut the ones off the Banjo ... might be nice to start with new metal
http://www.mcdonaldb...tbracketry.html
R31 housing is the right width... should be plenty of those about
People used to rob the 4.11 centres out of them and leave the housings at the wreckers.. .so if you can find one bare.. .and cut the brackets off... might save you some coin too
R31 diffs come in Pintara and Skyline configuration... basically Pintara are 25 spline and weaker.. Skyline are 28 same as Ford and Commodore (Stronger)
Of course then you need to decide on brakes and axles.... depending on what stud pattern your using
28 Spline axles are readily available... if your going with Commodore or Ford pattern they will be easy to get. If your going with HQ or Torana you'll need to get them modified to suit
Commodore LSD's are fairly easy to find in 4 pinion design at a sensible price on ebay (sadly no new avail genuine atm) but you can spring for a Harrop Trutrac if your cashed up
Just my 1c ... I'll probably add the other 1c later
#217
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Posted 15 May 2013 - 05:46 PM
Are the skyline diffs centered with evenly lengthed axles.. as in the diff center is centered so the drive shaft isnt on weird angles?
So i would then need to sort out my axles for HQ stud pattern. Ive read that adapting the r31 rear disc brakes isnt too hard?
Currently i have a pair of banjo axles that have had the ends enlarged and redrilled for HQ stud pattern. At the time they weren't cheap. will they still fetch a decent return?
#218
Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:19 AM
All the Borg Warner axle lengths are different so that the driveshaft is more centred (equal length axles means the driveshaft has to be offset) and the R31 is no exception. Its only a small difference to original and doesn't cause any issues with the driveshaft.
The R31 brakes will go straight on as long as you don't narrow the diff (they will foul on the shocks if you narrow it). You just need to adapt the hand brake cable and brake lines etc - all the information is in this very thread, go back over it for more info and photos. The only thing is apparently replacement discs are a little harder to get now.
The R31 brakes will go straight on as long as you don't narrow the diff (they will foul on the shocks if you narrow it). You just need to adapt the hand brake cable and brake lines etc - all the information is in this very thread, go back over it for more info and photos. The only thing is apparently replacement discs are a little harder to get now.
#219
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Posted 16 May 2013 - 02:40 PM
my guy had no issue with filling in the r31 axle pattern and re drilling them to HQ
and just got some new sky line rear disks (yes with skyline pattern) and drilled a HQ pattern on there as well (lots of holes but it works)
#220
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Posted 16 May 2013 - 10:28 PM
R31 diffs come in Pintara and Skyline configuration... basically Pintara are 25 spline and weaker.. Skyline are 28 same as Ford and Commodore (Stronger)
Just my 1c ... I'll probably add the other 1c later
Would that make the Pintara diff a BW75 and the Skyline diff a BW78?
#221
dattoman
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Posted 16 May 2013 - 10:31 PM
Nope
They are both BW75's
So are Commodores
#222
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Posted 16 May 2013 - 11:09 PM
Nope
They are both BW75's
So are Commodores
So not all 4pinion 28 spline VL-VS diffs are BW78 (BTR 78 Series) same as R31 Skyline.
#223
dattoman
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Posted 16 May 2013 - 11:43 PM
No Commodore diffs are BW78's
They are all BW75's... unless its a VZ ute.. .then you got a 78
Skylines are 75's also
Fords have 78's in them
Its written on the crownwheel
0575 for a 75 series
0578 for a 78 series
#224
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Posted 16 May 2013 - 11:58 PM
So Holden's publications (Example I have in front of me is VP/VQ Volume 2) would be incorrect in stating in the specifications;
"Rear Axle Assembly ........ BTR Engineering 78 Series"???
#225
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Posted 17 May 2013 - 01:11 AM
I believe so yes
Would you like me to email you my spreadsheet ?
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