Thanks Guys, haha Craig I did think about that and knew there would be a proper way but wasnt too fussed
Clints LH Project
Started by
_Viper_
, Mar 27 2006 10:51 PM
307 replies to this topic
#252
MODNIZD
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Posted 12 August 2013 - 09:31 PM
Looking good Clinty! Ill have to come say hello again.
#253
_Viper_
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Posted 12 August 2013 - 11:55 PM
Thanks Phil, yea drop by the workshop any time 
Small update actually, got the Tank pretty much finished, just goto clean up a couple of the welds and give them a polish then fit.
I went to a bucks night the night before so didn't get out of bed until midday hence not getting that much done. Targa West runs right past our workshop this weekend so I properly wont get much done this week either.
But when I do get a chance I might even weld in some triangles into the corners of the flange where its missing so its a full width all the way around... Will get it in the car and decide if im going to keep it polished or scotchbrite it.
#254
View GaragePosted 13 August 2013 - 07:01 AM
Nice!
I scotch brited the welds and edges as a quick and dirty way to clean up the welds, and polished the rest. It gets dirty easily but doesn't look awful and easy to clean
#256
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Posted 08 September 2013 - 05:05 PM
Finished fitting the Tank cover today, After doing so and taking a step back I think my exhaust pipes are too long, I'll try have a play with photoshop and cut them back.... What do you think? and cut on a 45' angle like they are now or square?
My list to complete before going over pits is as follows:
-Finish the wiring for the thermo fans (All I need to do is find a wiring plug to suit the temperature sender I have)
-Temp gauge on the dash is not reading correctly (investigate, altho this could be done after pits)
-Get and fit a new chrome heater fan as I left mine on the back table and the patio leaked and the chrome was crap and rusted :/
-Re-route handbrake cable (had a workshop fit the cable to suit the disc brakes years ago but it rubbed on the tailshaft! Ive had it tie-wired to hold it away but I dont think pits will like that idea)
#257
Obey 1
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Posted 08 September 2013 - 05:29 PM
That has got to be the shiniest drop tank cover I have ever seen !!
I would leave the pipes and see if they grow on you, once cut there is no going back.
I would leave the pipes and see if they grow on you, once cut there is no going back.
Edited by Obey 1, 08 September 2013 - 05:32 PM.
#258
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Posted 08 September 2013 - 08:41 PM
Lets see if it stays shiny, I chose Stainless as alloy scratches and looses its shine so easy so hopefully this stays maintainable. I wonder why other drop tanks are not made from it? its not really that expensive.
#260
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 08 September 2013 - 09:09 PM
The original tanks were made for race cars so weight was a priority. Since then most tanks have been made to copy the race cars.
In terms of looks I prefer to use stainless where possible.
#261
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Posted 08 September 2013 - 09:46 PM
I wonder how much of a weight difference there would be, You would need to use a thicker alloy sheet for the same strength right?... I made this one with 2mm Stainless I know im missing the top and any baffles but it was quite light. The 120lt would add much more weight hehe.
I'll stick with the pipes as is for now... see if they grow on me... I sort of wish I did the tank first actually as If I was to re-do it I would put the pipes a little wider apart so its more of a even spacing between the outside of the body and the tank. Maybe a touch lower too... altho its easy for me to change the height.
#262
Peter UC
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Posted 09 September 2013 - 01:01 PM
Aluminium is a third the weight of steel and if you use a reasonable grade it is around 2/3 the strength, so the tanks will still be lighter.
#263
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 09 September 2013 - 06:18 PM
Pipes look perfect. Angle looks much better than a straight cut, and length is spot on.
Nice tank!
#264
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Posted 23 October 2013 - 12:09 AM
Ok a month has gone past, Ive done all the things on my list:
-Finish the wiring for the thermo fans (All I need to do is find a wiring plug to suit the temperature sender I have) Didnt find a plug but made do with single connectors for each pin and some heat shrink, it looks neat enough
-Temp gauge on the dash is not reading correctly (investigate, altho this could be done after pits) Fixed, after testing various things turned out the sender was dead, replaced and works fine now
-Get and fit a new chrome heater fan as I left mine on the back table and the patio leaked and the chrome was crap and rusted :/ Well have not really done this, just stuck the old one in for now, I did modify the heater fan wheel to suit the cut down air box tho
-Re-route handbrake cable (had a workshop fit the cable to suit the disc brakes years ago but it rubbed on the tailshaft! Ive had it tie-wired to hold it away but I dont think pits will like that idea Re-drilled one of the mounting holes and now has a decent gap away from the tailshaft
Borrowed a set of Dragway 5-spoke rims with 185's to go over pits with, looks awful with the flares
Speedo suddenly stopped working, after investigating I pulled the extension housing off and found the speedo gears locating clip had broken and the gear had wandered down the shaft... new clip and all good
I think she is ready to attempt going over the pits... Will see if they pick on stuff like the hole cut in the bonnet, digital dash and who knows what. But at least ill have a definative list then. Plates will be mine!!!
#265
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- Name:Craig
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Posted 23 October 2013 - 12:47 AM
Good luck Clint!!
I'm almost there too, it is pretty nerve racking not knowing what they'll pick on.
Hopefully you'll get there first time, cause after seeing your Gemini I'm sure you haven't cut any corners on this either!
#266
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 23 October 2013 - 01:49 AM
Viper, on 08 Sept 2013 - 19:38, said:
I wonder how much of a weight difference there would be, You would need to use a thicker alloy sheet for the same strength right?... I made this one with 2mm Stainless I know im missing the top and any baffles but it was quite light.
The Brown Davis tanks are made from 1 mm marine grade aluminium. Lighter, cheaper and easier to work with than stainless.
#267
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Posted 30 November 2013 - 12:31 AM
Really? 1mm wow that is thin...
Well I finally had a go at going over the pits during the week, was not expecting to pass but just wanted to get the list so I can make a plan of attack and well it Didnt quite pass... my list is as follows:
-Fix oil leak in diff
-Engineers approval for chassis kit
-Engineers approval for upgraded brakes
-Engine modification permit required (Cam and extractors)
-Engine number is missing after machining, need to apply for a new one
-Oil leaks on engine
-Engineers approval for the 9"
-Need a park brake light on the dash
-Tyres permited
So not too bad, not much actually wrong bar the pesky oil leaks... Will get onto an engineer and get the rest sorted asap!
#268
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Posted 01 December 2013 - 05:26 PM
Ok well I was going to do this later but through while the diff is half apart may as well do it now to make room for my Normal (big) wheels And fix the flare fitment
I had the guards cut out and flares fitted years ago before I was confident enough to do it myself, I was worried he didnt cut enough out back then. Members from this forum told me to get him to redo it or you will regret it later but I was too nice and didnt say anything.. and well yeh Regret it now but have learnt abit since then so can do it myself.
Here how the flare sits atm
I don't like how they sit at the front.
Or at the back
So ill get the glass out and fix those bits and respray the flares.
Took the flare off, removed the springs and jacked the diff right up until it touched the floor, I allowed for 295/50 15's the dash line is the minimum amount needed, I went another 10mm further with the second solid white line, this would have been fine but it would have had a uneven scollop in the arch so Decided to cut abit further so its a continuous arch. Ive actually got to cut out abit towards the rear as you can see in the pic of the flare fitted it sticks out past the flare.
Ok so the reason I was under the rear at all was because the diff was leaking between the carrier and the housing and was making a very loud whaling noise when on part throttle so I think the settings need to be changed maybe, so it had to come out.
I found some decent pitting on about 6 teeth, is that fine or should I really replace the gears, could that cause the whining?
Also this was in the car when I bought it so no idea what it is actually, has 31 spline axels, 3.7:1 ratio but not sure what the center is? has 4 pinions and a rectangle block in the middle with shims... The car was going to be a drag car and the guy said he set it up really tight. I dont know tooo much about diffs but yea curious as to what sort of center it is?
As I was under the car I started getting carried away with idea of pulling the diff out, sandblasting, smoothing and painting it... fitting coil overs and adjustable tubular arms... had to slap myself abit and concentrate on only doing what I need to get it on the road and licensed so I can actually get out and enjoy it for awhile!
Edited by Viper, 01 December 2013 - 05:31 PM.
#269
_nowaynicko_
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Posted 01 December 2013 - 08:49 PM
Cool thread mate.
You have put some great work into your torry.
And I am deffo stealing your front brake setup!!
#270
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Posted 01 December 2013 - 09:01 PM
I don't know much about diffs at all. What I can tell you is that I recently had my diff built with all new parts, and it was noisy as hell when costing along. Quiet on exhalation but noisy on back off/costing. The diff guy pulled it apart thinking it may have been alignment. When checked it was fine. Turned out it was the actual gears that were noisy. He changed the brand of gears, set it back up, and all was good.as for the pitting, I have no idea, sorry I can't be of more help.
Good luck with your engineer:)
Good luck with your engineer:)
#271
Posted 02 December 2013 - 07:46 AM
I've used gears with worse pitting and haven't had any issues, I wouldn't be too worried about it as long as its not causing any of the surfaces to lose metal
#272
_mumbo_
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Posted 03 December 2013 - 07:28 AM
Stop moving the Finnish line , just get it regoed already so you can make the next cruise
#273
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Posted 03 December 2013 - 09:24 PM
Haha Im trying Kev, I get so tempted to do more... But I needed to cut the guards either way as my normal wheels scrubbed pretty bad and it looks horrible with the 185's! I was hoping to pass pits then just do the guards when I wanted but least this will get it done faster.
The diff howl was horrible also, was giving me the shits in the small amount of time I have driven it.
#274
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Posted 04 December 2013 - 07:22 AM
You can work on a registered car to and you can drive it in between 
I've been doing it for years
I've been doing it for years
#275
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Posted 04 December 2013 - 10:25 PM
Well that was the original plan but the mean man at the pits said no.
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