HQ Statesman
#76 _nzstato_
Posted 05 December 2010 - 07:31 PM
The new bit was a bitch to weld in, I had to get into the boot and weld above, I also couldnt get my helmet on in the position I was in (had to do the old close your eyes and spot weld, naughty naughty). Needless to say I ended up with a few burns on my chest from dripping weld and a bit of a sunburn from the weld arc. Got it in solid though.
The top skin had alot of 'oil canning' from a previous repair (must have done it too hot) and because I don't have an oxy or a shrinking disc I employed a technique I learnt somewhere else. Take one of your buggered flap discs and mount it back-to-front on the grinder and use that to heat up the metal, then using a wet rag, quench the steel, easy. And we got the new bit in.
Other side with the old repair was a bit of a mess
Going through the motions...
#77 _wblje_
Posted 05 December 2010 - 07:45 PM
#78 _mick74lh_
Posted 05 December 2010 - 10:12 PM
You must be over the hump of the project now with the rust repairs and being able to actually move it under its own steam
#79 _nzstato_
Posted 06 December 2010 - 04:51 AM
Glad you are enjoying the vids, I've been a bit slack with them of late, need to get one up tonight. You are right in that I 'think' I'm somewhat on the downward leg with this project
#80 _nzstato_
Posted 06 December 2010 - 04:54 AM
#81 _Quagmire_
Posted 06 December 2010 - 02:15 PM
it's all the joys of an old car and dogey bros panel beating there m8t
if i search close enough i'm sure i'll find the same with mine
#82 _nzstato_
Posted 12 December 2010 - 06:12 PM
All of the bare metal areas you see had bog of varying thickness covering it
Stupid thing is that half of it didn't even need to be there, 5min of hammer and dolly work would have most of the dents out and whoever did the bog-work didnt follow the contours of the panels but tried to 'straighten' all of the curves out
Being such long panels it would be almost impossible to get them dead straight but I but I can make them a hell of alot better than this, there are a heap of dents across this panel (ex wife with a golf club?) which should come out with a hammer and dolly.
It's about this time that I wished they'd just fill the holes with bog rather than play with the mig..
(some old lead loading in this repair, a rust hole at the edge)
This car would have originally had a chrome strip running down the side, the mig repairs of the holes the chrome fitted into are less than impressive...
This dent in the rear had about an inch of fibreglass filler in it, I'll replace this section, it has began rusting at the bottom.
Soon after I bought this car it needed some rust repair to get a WOF, this is the result
They've brazed small sections in (which is good) but I'm less than impressed with how they line up with the roof section. I'm inclined to leave them there are smooth the area with fibreglass filler rather than mig new sections in since they are right in the area where the roof seam is and there is alot of lead loading around this region (anyone out there recken I should dig out the lead, fix it new and smooth it over in fibreglass?)
So this will definately keep me busy, at least I have a decent amount of time off over xmas/NYs to fix it up.
#83 _shadowmaster_
Posted 12 December 2010 - 08:22 PM
By the looks of it mate thats one really bad body. If you want to fix that body properlly your going to be up for some semi major repairs.
Anyway best of luck
#84 _nzstato_
Posted 13 December 2010 - 04:41 AM
Mate leave the lead there, i dont recommend digging it out. if you have allready played with that area you are bound to have removed at least some to the point where its not longer perfect so you if thats the case you will need to put some bog over it to finish it off but i would leave as much lead as possible there.
By the looks of it mate thats one really bad body. If you want to fix that body properlly your going to be up for some semi major repairs.
Anyway best of luck
Cheers for that, I really was leaning that way unless someone gave me a really good reason to dig it out. You're right that it is no longer perfect anymore (previous repairs have dealt to it already) so I'll take your advice and leave it be.
Considering the previous work I've done to it I think I'm a bit past semi major repairs, but this is definately going to take some work...
#85 _mick74lh_
Posted 13 December 2010 - 03:27 PM
#86 _nzstato_
Posted 14 December 2010 - 05:46 AM
Off to a liquidation auction for a local panel shop today, xmas might be coming early for me this year
#87 _nzstato_
Posted 14 December 2010 - 06:45 PM
Got some large engineering squares, shot hammers and a blue point speed file. Also included (not shown) was a fire extinguisher, assorted bolts/screws and a clock! all for $30 so I was happy enough. But I digress, back to the repairs
Except for some undercutting of some of the welds this repair has turned out well, it follows the shape in this section pretty close. You can see a heap of holes above, this is where a previous smarty pants has shifted where the badge sits on the pillar, tomorrows job me thinks.
I can really see how this becomes so expensive when you get professionals to do it, it's just so time consuming. Though in saying that there was a mk1 capri sitting in the panel shop where the auction was (it was bare metalled and I assume the customer hadnt picked it up yet) and some of the repair sections on it were VERY average. No wonder they went under.
#88 _nzstato_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 01:25 PM
Yummy
Much better
Here's some of the previous crap I've cut out
Backed her out of the shed to remove a bit more bog
this is why it is so crap lapping steel behind the hole is not a repair
Passenger sill isn't too bad, drivers is a bit worse for wear, reckon this is worth saving or best to replace the entire sill?
#89 _Quagmire_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 01:33 PM
at least you got some
someone tried to fix mine with a sedan still
so i go a 2 foot gap to fill later
#90 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 01:55 PM
Looking good though.
Cheers.
#91 _nzstato_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 02:46 PM
#92 _Quagmire_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 03:04 PM
which is the right length
i just have to get a lenght to fix mine and finish welding it up
but if you can get it made all the better
#93 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 03:06 PM
Cheers.
#94 _nzstato_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 06:53 PM
#95 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 20 December 2010 - 07:16 PM
Cheers.
#96 _nzstato_
Posted 23 December 2010 - 04:03 PM
Now to sort that rear 1/4, after cutting it out the whole thing looked pretty nasty...
Had to rebuild the support & fit an inner section
And I better fix its bum while I'm at it...
#97 _nzstato_
Posted 14 January 2011 - 01:07 PM
Been doing a bit of work in this area too, top of the guard was in pretty bad shape and there was rust under the lead seam
However I need some help, I'm trying to get the profile of this 1/4 right, should it be straight between the swage lines or is there a concave to it? The shape at the front by the pillar indicates a curve but I am unsure? Could someone with a statesman (Quagmire???) post some pictures with a ruler across the panel so I can work out the contour? Cheers guys
#98 _Quagmire_
Posted 14 January 2011 - 04:45 PM
#99 _nzstato_
Posted 14 January 2011 - 06:09 PM
if the parts car is still at joshes i'll try and get some photos tomorrow or next weekend (motorvation is on and i think he may be going to impress everyone)
Cheers mate, there's no rush for it as I'm going to be away from the shed next week.
#100 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 14 January 2011 - 06:31 PM
Cheers.
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