I have 8 inch rims with 245 eagers on the front of my LH torry. It darts left and right when it gets in the truck groves in the road. the steering rack and front end have been reconded , bushed and aligned. Does anyone have the same trouble or have I missed something.
Cheers Col
Tyres
Started by
_col_
, Jul 13 2010 12:03 AM
34 replies to this topic
#2
dattoman
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 12:35 AM
Has someone put HQ stubs and brakes on it ?
#3
_col_
_col_
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 12:49 AM
Not that I am aware off ? Will HQ stubs make a difference.
#4
View GaragePosted 13 July 2010 - 07:47 AM
HQ stubs with the wrong steering arms will give you bump steer.
What specs were used for the wheel alignment? Factory LH settings will be neutral or even negative caster from memory, but you'll want a fair amount of positive caster with wide tyres to avoid tram-tracking.
What specs were used for the wheel alignment? Factory LH settings will be neutral or even negative caster from memory, but you'll want a fair amount of positive caster with wide tyres to avoid tram-tracking.
#5
_col_
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 11:49 AM
I have sent the alignment to L34 factory specs,
caster deg -2 to 0 I have it at -1
camber deg -1/2 to 1 I have it at 1
toe in deg - .16 to + .16 I have it some there in the middle.
Do you know what caster deg would stop the darting?
thanks Col
caster deg -2 to 0 I have it at -1
camber deg -1/2 to 1 I have it at 1
toe in deg - .16 to + .16 I have it some there in the middle.
Do you know what caster deg would stop the darting?
thanks Col
#6
Posted 13 July 2010 - 01:03 PM
With all original LH suspension you may not be able to achieve a great deal, but if you could get to +1 caster and -0.5 camber you'd notice quite an improvement. The settings you are using won't be doing you any favours at all.
#7
_col_
_col_
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 06:32 PM
Thanks alot for the info, the front disc brakes are standard . I will change the caster and camber settings and go from there'.
Thanks Again
Col
Thanks Again
Col
#8
_col_
_col_
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 12:58 PM
I have been talking to the previous owner of the car and he tells me it has a HQ stud pattern. He told me the car was darting abit when it hit a bump in the road so it sounds like the HQ stud pattern may be the problem. Can anyone give me some advice on how to fix the problem. do I need to change the steering arms and if so what arms would I use?
Thanks Col
Thanks Col
#9
Posted 14 July 2010 - 01:22 PM
A9X style steering arms, Harrop (I think?) makes them still for extravagant prices.
You still want to alter the wheel alignment to something with a bit more caster to dial it all out, although that will make it a bit heavier to steer.
You still want to alter the wheel alignment to something with a bit more caster to dial it all out, although that will make it a bit heavier to steer.
#10
_col_
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 01:57 PM
A9X style steering arms, Harrop (I think?) makes them still for extravagant prices.
You still want to alter the wheel alignment to something with a bit more caster to dial it all out, although that will make it a bit heavier to steer.
Ok so apart from fitting a pair of A9X arms, If I adjust the Caster deg it should help.
Thanks for that
Col
#11
Posted 14 July 2010 - 02:53 PM
Catch 22 though is that adding caster will increase the bump steer because it will lift the front of the steering arms and thus the tie rod end. UC Torana arms are better than LH ones if you can't stretch to the A9X ones.
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=18228
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=18228
#12
_col_
_col_
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 06:49 PM
Ok. Thanks for the link it explains alot
Thanks Mate Col
Thanks Mate Col
#13
_col_
_col_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 11:33 AM
I emailed Harrops and I can get a pair of A9X steering arms for $361 delivered to the door. they are $ 155 each plus $20 postage, and of course $33 tax. I will go with the A9X arms to fix the problem thanks again for the great info
Col
Col
#14
Posted 15 July 2010 - 04:06 PM
Sounds good, just make doubly sure you actually do have HQ stub axles before spending the money!
#15
_col_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 07:45 PM
how can you tell by looking at the stub axles? is there a big differance between LH and HQ Thats obvious to look for.
#16
dattoman
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 08:17 PM
Brakes will be vented
Thats a good start
Thats a good start
#17
Posted 15 July 2010 - 08:26 PM
^ Measure the diameter of the disc to make sure they are full size, should be 11 inches
#18
_col_
_col_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 09:15 PM
the disc's are vented. I will take a wheel off tomorow and measure the disc.
Thanks
Col
Thanks
Col
#19
_col_
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Posted 16 July 2010 - 11:17 AM
The disc's are 11 inches.Do you think it would be better to machine the disc down 6mm or fit the A9X arms? If i fit the A9X arms will this alter the clearance between the caliper and tie rod end ?
#20
Posted 16 July 2010 - 03:49 PM
If you machine the discs down and go back to Torana stub axles you will regain standard geometry and dial out a lot of the bump steer, but you'll lose some braking capacity.
If you go with the A9X steering arms theoretically you'll get the best of both worlds (as much as it applies here). Yes you will gain clearance between the tie rod end and caliper, the steering arms will drop it down a bit lower.
If you go with the A9X steering arms theoretically you'll get the best of both worlds (as much as it applies here). Yes you will gain clearance between the tie rod end and caliper, the steering arms will drop it down a bit lower.
#22
_col_
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Posted 16 July 2010 - 08:52 PM
Its the first time I have posted pics.I couldn't get the text Right but its a start.Are the calipers HQ?
Also abit off subject, but have you seen front sway bars set up like this before? Iam told it was a mod they did in the late 70's
Also abit off subject, but have you seen front sway bars set up like this before? Iam told it was a mod they did in the late 70's
#23
Posted 16 July 2010 - 11:19 PM
Yes HX/HZ calipers, basically same as HQ. Also its hard to tell from the pics but it looks like the steering arms might already have a considerable amount of drop, might be worth identifying them before proceeding? Normally this type of caliper is used with the UC slide pin which has a recessed bolt head for better clearance (some of the UCs had the same caliper with a narrower pad carrier for the thinner solid Torana rotors). How closely does the tie rod follow the angle of the lower control arm?
The front mount sway bar is common to allow better clearance for extractors/exhaust which would normally foul on the standard rear mount one. Looks like the brackets to the lower arm have been installed upside down (note the angle of the link pin and bushes).
The front mount sway bar is common to allow better clearance for extractors/exhaust which would normally foul on the standard rear mount one. Looks like the brackets to the lower arm have been installed upside down (note the angle of the link pin and bushes).
#24
dattoman
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Posted 17 July 2010 - 01:20 AM
Thats a Torana caliper body (the alloy part) with a cast iron bracket from a HX
Very common conversion
Looks like HQ-WB stubs and discs too
Old style Kmac bar ?
Seen them a few times... though not a fan of the mounts
Very common conversion
Looks like HQ-WB stubs and discs too
Old style Kmac bar ?
Seen them a few times... though not a fan of the mounts
#25
_col_
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Posted 17 July 2010 - 12:52 PM
[quote][/quote
I dont know if the steering arms are LH or UC ?
]This is the view with the car sitting level. the steering rack arms look to be sitting level, If I fit the A9X steering arms will this drop the steering rack arms and put a stop to the bump steer problem ?.
I dont know if the steering arms are LH or UC ?
]This is the view with the car sitting level. the steering rack arms look to be sitting level, If I fit the A9X steering arms will this drop the steering rack arms and put a stop to the bump steer problem ?.
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