65 replies to this topic

[ls2lxhatch]

Rorym, Dangerous and slr5640 have posted pictures steering arms and stub axles.

I have collected the photos and other suspension information onto this page..

[76lxhatch]

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=46368

edit: a bit slow!

Edited by 76lxhatch, 12 January 2011 - 05:51 AM.

[yel327]

I find it hard to believe that tonners use a different KPI to all other HQ-WB. Particularly when very early 1-tonners didn't actually use a different stub to other HQ's. As far as I know the only difference is the heat treatment to make them stronger. Just like tonners used bigger axles than other salisbury diffs (for strength).

Correct about the KPI angle HQ to WB was the same part, but as the molds wore out a new part number was issued the only change made was to the tonners which were heat treated
the A9X has the best bump steer characteristics but use standard height springs as car will be roughly 100mm off the ground with the car being lowered by HQ stubs Mine the bottom of subframe was 100, on the money just legal
use lower spring to much camber and illegal anyway

As discussed in another thread, I believe the change in part number isn't anything to do with a mould wearing out. It is due to the change in calipers mid HX. I still have to grab a HQ-HJ stub and put next to a HZ-WB stub and take a picture of the difference.

Out of interest, how much are the Harrop replica A9X steering arms? Are A9X arms close to L34 arms?

About $350 new a pair. Somebody posted images of all 3 steering arms ( LH, UC and A9X ) some time ago. The difference is quite noticeable by eye.

Chopper, $350 a pair is not that bad at all!

[ls2lxhatch]

There is no reason why you can not enlarge the hole in the LX LCA to the same size as the hole in the UC LCA. I guess it depends on which shocks you plan to use. The larger hole does make it easier to use an internal springs compressor.

If you are using UC steering arms then I would want the UC LCA with the steering arm stops. However if you are also fitting the K-MAC front mount adjustable swaybar then you have to remove the steering arm stops from the UC LCA.

The Harrop arms do not have the steering stop like the factory arms so it probably does not matter with LCA you use.

[76lxhatch]

Gillock or PBR calipers were fitted at the same time ie to HQ and depended on where manufactured and what was in stock from suppliers at the time or at least this is what I have been led to believe maybe someone can correct me on this

There are at least four different types calipers used HQ-WB, plus of course the early four wheel drum models

[yel327]

Hi Yel327

Parts guy at GMH told me the reason for the number change was molds wearing out, as there were several part number changes of the life of the HQ- WB and not just the two or three variations I would tend to agree with what I was told

Thinking about it I would suggest (don't know for a fact)

Standard HQ to WB disc braked stub axle PBR caliper Part NO xyz

Standard HQ to WB disc braked stub axle Gillock caliper Part NO ZYX

Drum braked Stub axle Part NO Dumb arse

One Tonner heat treated caliper ( may not have different part number as heat treatment post casting ???) Part NO XYZ

There was NO difference between RTS and Non- RTS stub axles, at least that I know of

Gillock or PBR calipers were fitted at the same time ie to HQ and depended on where manufactured and what was in stock from suppliers at the time or at least this is what I have been led to believe maybe someone can correct me on this

I did post this up in another thread, but they go like this (from memory):

HK-HJ drum brake except 1-ton (or to whenever drum brakes stopped being used, I think it was late HJ);
HK-mid HX disc brake except 1-ton;
HQ-HJ drum brake tonner;
HQ-mid HX disc brake tonner (used on L34);
Mid HX-WB disc brake;
Mid HX-WB disc brake tonner (used on A9X).

The description in the HX catalogue where the stubs change is based upon calipers. The later stub was used with the combination cast iron and alloy calipers. The earlier stubs were used with (discussing HQ on only) cast iron PBR and Girlock.

From memory the HQ-HJ disc brake stubs were one of the few items where the LH side one was an even part number, this was because they originated on the RH side in the HK series. Or something like that!

[76lxhatch]

A lowered spring will be heavier duty anyway, drop tank won't bring it down noticeably (especially if you can't afford to fill it!)

[76lxhatch]

Huh? Stub axles go on the front, drop tank is at the back of the car...

[76lxhatch]

Huh? Stub axles go on the front, drop tank is at the back of the car...

My point is, if the HQ stub is one inch lower, and I got sport lows (lets say that they drop the rear 1.5 inch) the rear would be lower than the front. Which is why I was asking I might be better off just getting the Standards, as I don't know how much the sport lows drops the car, especially with a full tank of fuel/full rear of people.

Didn't mean to confuse.

Ah ok, I think that if you lower the front at all then you should put lower springs in the back as well - it won't end up lower than the front. I'm a fan of somewhere around what King Springs call "low" (i.e. not super low or ultra low etc), normally around a 1 inch drop which will still give enough clearance and maintain some ride quality (these will be heavier springs though as required with less travel). Remember also that with flares you'll generally end up with bigger tyres on the back which will also be bigger diameter so you this will add extra rake which you want to dial out a bit.

[76lxhatch]

Why do you want to go Commodore stud pattern? Will be hard to get wheels in the correct offset, I'd suggest just using bigger studs with HQ pattern