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hi i was just wondering if any one could help me out -

Started by _alisha_ , Feb 03 2011 09:04 AM

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#26 _Quagmire_

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 11:43 PM

gees the spelling police will have a field day with you two :tease:

engine has been changed over and not "reported" to the rego boys yet
no biggie everyone over here does it
(no annual rego inspection)
if you can't see it then get a rag with thinners on it and start wipeing small areas on the p/s rail
(near the front)
they will soon appear and your paint will disappear :cry:

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#27 Toranamat69

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 02:43 AM

This pic I borrowed from another thread clearly shows where the chassis number is stamped on these - the ones I have seen are stamped very clearly on the LC/LJ's.

Posted Image

BTW, Welcome.

Matt

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#28 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 06:23 AM

While your looking at the back of the flutes ,to see if their welded in ,look up at the backside of the booster bracket bolt,they don't bog the under side of the guard . Does it have a 4 speed , sports dash with four small gauges and door trims with a silver section ?
If the tags are gone the chassis number may be gone too ,to another car ,check under where the number should be for a square welded section , it may be tarred over .

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#29 _BATHURST-32D_

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 06:54 AM

it looks to me that you have a adelaide built 1969-70 lc gtr, it was at no time a xu1 other than a mock-up, you really just need to prove that it was a gtr, and the best and only way you can do this 100% is by doing this,,,

step 1 inside the car under the dash on the passengers side strait behind that triangle bracket you have taken a pic of there will be 6 spot-welds 3 at the top and another 3 about 6-8mm under the top ones

step 2 if these spot-welds are original markings you will then have a true blue lc gtr, then all you need to do is see what year it is 69 or 70, if is a 69 model it will have the front bump stops welded to the inner guard and rail and your front top wish bone want have a rubber stop

step 3 i have seen 1969 lc gtrs and s model cars with-out a inner guard number has they never held the adr tag, behind the brake booster,,, but this was more common on a exsported car than an aussie sold car.

i hope you can sort this out by the info i have given you,, if not good luck with what ever you do
cheers gong

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#30 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 06:46 PM

Had another idea, before you paint strip where the body number should be.

Get some 1500 grit wet and dry sand paper, a stiff rubbing block and some dishwashing liquid in water.

Rub the area with the paper wrapped around the stiff block using the dishwashing liquid water stuff, rub it for 10 seconds or so and then dry it off

If theres even the slightest indentation still there where the numbers used to be that method will show it up, and then you can just hand buff it again afterwards and no one will be the wiser.

Cheers.

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#31 S pack

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 08:40 PM

Had another idea, before you paint strip where the body number should be.

Get some 1500 grit wet and dry sand paper, a stiff rubbing block and some dishwashing liquid in water.

Rub the area with the paper wrapped around the stiff block using the dishwashing liquid water stuff, rub it for 10 seconds or so and then dry it off

If theres even the slightest indentation still there where the numbers used to be that method will show it up, and then you can just hand buff it again afterwards and no one will be the wiser.

Cheers.

Better than that, remove the passenger side front wheel and remove the dirt and grime etc etc where the chassis number should be and see if there is any indication of a number stamped in the panel or if the panel has been tampered with.

It is possible that the car had suffered front end damage in the past and was repaired with a new passenger side wheelhouse panel and GTR fender and the repairer didn't stamp the chassis number into the new panel.

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#32 _alisha_

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 10:51 PM

thanks heaps everyone its crazy how you all know all this :lol:

im starting to get paranoid that i bought a stolen car :cry:

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#33 Ice

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 11:38 PM

thanks heaps everyone its crazy how you all know all this im starting to get paranoid that i bought a stolen car

If your not sure pm me i can come and look at the car i know enough about them by now
gene,

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#34 _Quagmire_

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 12:25 AM

thanks heaps everyone its crazy how you all know all this im starting to get paranoid that i bought a stolen car
If your not sure pm me i can come and look at the car i know enough about them by now
gene,

i don't know if i'd trust this guy at my house let alone in my suburb :stirpot:

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#35 Ice

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 01:20 AM

Its ok quag on the way there i will come around your place first and :shoot:

u

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#36 _Quagmire_

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 04:29 AM

lol sorry for the :threadjacked:

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#37 enderwigginau

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 10:33 AM

Does the poor girl really need a front lawn full of Torana's to help out??

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#38 Ice

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 02:12 PM

Does the poor girl really need a front lawn full of Torana's to help out??

Better than a front lawn full of ricers

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#39 _alisha_

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 03:12 PM

it looks to me that you have a adelaide built 1969-70 lc gtr, it was at no time a xu1 other than a mock-up, you really just need to prove that it was a gtr, and the best and only way you can do this 100% is by doing this,,,

step 1 inside the car under the dash on the passengers side strait behind that triangle bracket you have taken a pic of there will be 6 spot-welds 3 at the top and another 3 about 6-8mm under the top ones

step 2 if these spot-welds are original markings you will then have a true blue lc gtr, then all you need to do is see what year it is 69 or 70, if is a 69 model it will have the front bump stops welded to the inner guard and rail and your front top wish bone want have a rubber stop

step 3 i have seen 1969 lc gtrs and s model cars with-out a inner guard number has they never held the adr tag, behind the brake booster,,, but this was more common on a exsported car than an aussie sold car.

i hope you can sort this out by the info i have given you,, if not good luck with what ever you do
cheers gong

think i will try this and then if it checks out i will start the paint removal . thanks for the offer of coming to check it out i will keep it in mind .

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#40 _alisha_

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 01:36 AM

Hi guys john here (Alisha�s fianc�') sorry to disappoint ,

Alisha has told me about this site so I just have been catching up on all this unbelievable info and thought I would give you guys an update to what I have found .

Start with the VIN -
the VIN that Alisha posted is of a plate located on the driver�s side (wrong spot) it has been cut of something and welded on. I thought that the car might have been in an accident and the welded on VIN may have come from the damaged panel. Ill probably end up removing it.
I have had a look under the wheel arch for the stamping and there is no compressions from the reverse side to indicate that the panel is stamped -don�t want to start sanding the paint or removing it as it looks like we are going to have to sell the car. Would anyone know if there is a way to find out what the VIN was originally?

make model-
originally I thought it was a 72 lc but now it looks like the dash has been changed to a 72 dash due to the park break indicator light (still I�m probably wrong ) in the centre of the dash? .
The gtr linkage gear is spot welded but has had a repair done to it. it looks like the pikey that had the car before Alisha smashed the 202 block around in the engine bay when it was going in - heater equipment housing smashed as well and a dent on the bonnet release suggests he didn�t have a engine hoist !
Did the gtr have a different fuel line setup? Or different tank? Like the xu-1 setup?
The car currently has lj rear tail lights I know it�s a small thing but would like to change them to lc if anyone knows someone that would like to do a swap.

the flutes on the quarter panel-
as far as I can tell they are not welded in they are one piece which is strange since I think the passenger side has been replaced

engine -
currently a 202 will get the engine number but don�t think it will help. On the rego it details a 186 with the number provided above but it looks like the shell and motor are not a pair
(should be a 161 2640 engine? i think but prob wrong again )
Car has currently got a holly on it but I have the triple strongberg carbie setup which I�m going to put back in when I get new needles and seats.

gear box is an all aussie 4 probably leave it as that unless I got a per spec engine I would change it to an Opel

if any one wants to know anything else just let me know.
Going to give it a good clean tomorrow might take it down the beach and get some good pix

will keep you all informed. and thank you all for all the good info and all the help . and a front lawn full of toranas is never a bad thing .

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#41 _BATHURST-32D_

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 05:56 AM

if you are going to now sell the car,,, then dont cut the welded number of it has it seem to be the only thing that they can use to give the car rego,,, without that proof the car will only be good for wrecking.

cheers gong

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#42 _alisha_

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 10:17 AM

if you are going to now sell the car,,, then dont cut the welded number of it has it seem to be the only thing that they can use to give the car rego,,, without that proof the car will only be good for wrecking.

cheers gong

Oh ok so even though the number is not for the car it doesn�t matter? As long as it�s on the rego.

The block number is weird as well 0L714985

thanks again for all the help very much appreciated .

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#43 rodomo

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 12:00 PM

The block number is weird as well 0L714985

QL maybe?

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#44 S pack

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 12:55 PM

The block number is weird as well 0L714985

QL maybe?

I reckon you'd be correct Rob, the little stroke on the bottom of the Q is prob just hard to see.

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#45 Collo

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 01:34 PM

Yeah would be QL I'd imagine. Kingswood block.

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#46 _alisha_

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 08:24 PM

yeah i gave it a bit of a polish and its a QL

if any one is intrested in the car it is going to be sold by offer. pm me for any info required

regretful sale but hopefuly will get a new project soon

thanks again for all your guys help

Edited by alisha, 06 February 2011 - 08:27 PM.

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#47 rexy

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 09:45 PM

Yes, I would be moving on your more than likely previously stolen car before its owner recognises it and attempts to reclaim it.
I dont think there is any other likely explanation for what you have described with its ID other than a bodge attempt to cover up a theft.
Good luck...

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#48 _alisha_

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 10:26 PM

Yes, I would be moving on your more than likely previously stolen car before its owner recognises it and attempts to reclaim it.
I dont think there is any other likely explanation for what you have described with its ID other than a bodge attempt to cover up a theft.
Good luck...

yeah thanks for that ................

have fun in your kia

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#49 Ice

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 10:32 PM

Yes, I would be moving on your more than likely previously stolen car before its owner recognises it and attempts to reclaim it.
I dont think there is any other likely explanation for what you have described with its ID other than a bodge attempt to cover up a theft.
Good luck...

yeah thanks for that ................

have fun in your kia

Dont worry about that alisha some people never grow up aye rexy