they look sick.
what difference are your expecting compared to the quads
Posted 06 July 2013 - 07:18 AM
they look sick.
what difference are your expecting compared to the quads
Posted 06 July 2013 - 11:43 AM
Quads were for the racecar... these are on the street car I believe with a different engine
Posted 06 July 2013 - 12:03 PM
Posted 13 July 2013 - 09:58 PM
so pig of a day to round off a pig of a week.
Sat the engine in the K frame earlier in the week and began to bolt the ancillaries on ready for install today.
ended up using bits off the race car to hurry things along.
Clutch and g'box went on well, but i struggled to bolt the pacemakers up. the passenger side just kept fouling the rails. I took a punt on the headers being bent in all their travels and bought a brand new set from Datto friday.
Waste of money that was, no difference at all.
Next failure was the drivers side wouldn't bolt up with the flexi steering coupling. so we tossed that in the corner for a minute. The drivers side sits against the sump too.
Pulled the mounts off, changed them for the Tuff Mounts out of the race car to see if that has any difference.
Nope.
rolled the engine under the car, dropped the shell down over the engine, k frame outriggers bolted straight up, gearbox crossmember fell into place, do you theink the front k frame to body mounts will line up?
Not a chance.
thrown it in for the day, bit not happy.
Posted 13 July 2013 - 10:13 PM
Posted 13 July 2013 - 10:59 PM
Hey mate, no fun at all! The trimming of the drip rail for MSD dizzy's is a common one, but the fitment of your extractors is a real bugger.
What part number are they out of curiosity? A few things with mine.....I'm running VN headed 304/308 to suit HQ Pacemakers because no-one did 1 3/4 primaries for VN heads in Toranas back then.
1 - The guy stipulated I would have to run a double uni to make it work which I did - no dramas on drivers side.
2 - Going back nearly 10 years now the high energy pans were a little different, and I remember quite a few people having drama's with Pacemakers fouling on the larger pan on the drivers side. So I took some measurements and sent them to high energy who made the pan to my specs which worked well. EDIT - From memory I'm sure I've spoken to someone who said the pro-circuit pans high energy were doing no longer fouled pacemakers.....not 100% on that though!!
3 - Finally I discovered I had to trim a piece of my passenger side k frame outrigger which I then fixed by welding in a piece of 3mm angle iron.
Sorry you've bumped into all this at this stage of the build mate, most upsetting!! Although now I think about it, I cut my drip tray after painting the car, and after some touch-up paint you wouldn't pick it.....not that anyone ever looks.
It'll be worth all the effort mate, hang in there!!
Edited by 355LX, 13 July 2013 - 11:00 PM.
Posted 14 July 2013 - 11:40 AM
Posted 14 July 2013 - 12:31 PM
Posted 14 July 2013 - 07:50 PM
Sorry to hear it.
Unfortunately nearly every piece of aftermarket conversion gear to suit torana's needs modding to fit.
Project is coming along awesome. Stick with it
Posted 15 July 2013 - 04:34 PM
Old headers are 5500 and the new ones are 5260
I've got the 5260 headers in mine and had to run the double uni joints. The factory rag joint rubbed real bad, but was always going to run double uni's so left the headers untouched,
Posted 16 July 2013 - 12:28 AM
Edited by 355LX, 16 July 2013 - 12:29 AM.
Posted 16 July 2013 - 09:52 AM
thrown in the towel.
That's it had enough.
got soaked again last night trying to dick with what should be a simple install.
Car has a leak the size of niagara through the brand new rare spares windscreen rubber. Shouldn't be surprised, nothing else i've bought from them works.
Had a gutful.
Pushing the lot into the corner for a few weeks to cool down, then i'll probable cash the whole lot in, down to the last screw.
weiner it, i'm done.
Posted 16 July 2013 - 10:30 AM
Edited by sibhs, 16 July 2013 - 10:31 AM.
Posted 16 July 2013 - 08:18 PM
I'm sure theres plenty of efi headed toranas out there with these extractors on them
Maybe its the mounts
Tuff don't make Torana mounts they just make 1 that they say suits HQ aswell... maybe thats the issue
Can you try some original Torana ones first ?
Posted 16 July 2013 - 08:27 PM
Posted 16 July 2013 - 10:10 PM
if you want you can push it into the corner at my place, ill look after it for you
Posted 16 July 2013 - 10:47 PM
Shouldn't be surprised, nothing else i've bought from them works.
Oh I am hearing you.
The amount of time you waste getting parts to fit just makes what should be an easy job a complete heartache. Its little wonder nos parts command such high prices. I put on a nos rh sill panel and nos rh 1/4 panel and it was a walk in the park. Went to fit the artists rough impression of a replica rhf floor pan and my 5yr old nephew could have made it better. Its a joke and if someone ever does it properly they will corner the growing restoration market.
Edited by LXSS350, 16 July 2013 - 10:48 PM.
Posted 16 July 2013 - 11:01 PM
Oh I am hearing you.
The amount of time you waste getting parts to fit just makes what should be an easy job a complete heartache. Its little wonder nos parts command such high prices. I put on a nos rh sill panel and nos rh 1/4 panel and it was a walk in the park. Went to fit the artists rough impression of a replica rhf floor pan and my 5yr old nephew could have made it better. Its a joke and if someone ever does it properly they will corner the growing restoration market.
^^^This, that place he's referring to is a farce.
Please, please somebody make some repro gear that actually fits, and doesnt look and feel cheap and nasty.
PS stick with it mate, its just another hurdle,and will make the end result a whole lot sweeter.
Posted 17 July 2013 - 09:14 AM
After 35 years in the industry nothing surprises me any more, Just give it a break and in a few day thing won't seem so bad later on. your run things around in your head and the answers turn up. Slow down the pace, do it once and do it well.
Did you use non hardening sealer on the front & rear windscreens? You could use a second uni and this will give you some extra room but from the photos I recon it would be tight even going this way. You could muck around for ages trying to get the extractors to fit so if different mounts don't help take pictures & measurements rip them out and sent them to a good exhaust centre and get them modified to suit.
I had two different brands in my hatch and both didn't fit, they hit every bloody part of the car and engine. In the end I sent both back and sent the car to our local exhaust centre and they made me 1 7/8" extractors and duel system all Jet hot coated for $2,500.00 but it was worth every cent in the end not to have any interference issues and when I fitted the power steering twelve months later it cleared by heaps.
Stick in there Welby.
Posted 27 January 2014 - 04:12 PM
Power twist came off and went under the bench. Recon SL/R rack in its place
Engine in without the box as i went looking for a bellhousing
Meanwhile refitted the carpet this time with underlay as well as the shiny metal stuff
Bellhousing found, blasted and painted.
M21 Box from ATC
Quatermaster hydraulic bearing and new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.
Posted 27 January 2014 - 05:35 PM
I do like the hydraulics idea
Did you check out the Genie version of those pipes
They claim to fit (using Torana mounts) inc power steer... not sure how they would know this though
They run 2.5" collectors and similar price to the Paceys
Tony rekons he's got a set down there but would have to find them in the koas.
Posted 27 January 2014 - 06:47 PM
I well remmeber the pain of fitting extractors in a LX, jigging engine mounts to get extra clearance and even then having to modify the pipes and that was 28 years ago, good on ya Pacemaker still don't fit
Posted 27 January 2014 - 06:55 PM
Good to see you getting back into it Welby.
Posted 27 January 2014 - 09:22 PM
didn't play with them Datto.
I'm already down a second set of pacey's and they are in. no need for further pain at this stage.
need to go back to the hatch and measure the distance from the flywheel to the thrust bearing., Just seems to be a huge gap on this one .
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