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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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#1 _judgelj_

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 12:34 AM

Well, made a decision to scrap my current project and move on with something i have wanted for a while. Picked up this coupe all the way in NSW and drove it home. Was a cu%t of a drive but got home in the end after a few mishaps along the way. I must say though, never again will i drive all the way back from NSW, i don't know how i did it and i don't want even want to imagine doing it again.

All in all car is actually pretty good. Very happy with the interior and body in general, as well as the exterior trims. The good thing about this car is that it is complete and registered. This means i can actually enjoy something for once instead of having it sit in the garage waiting to be finished. The idea behind this was to be a work in progress with a quick freshen up in the very near future. Like i said i like the fact that i can actually drive it, and it still turns many heads in it's current condition. I will gradually work on it and make small improvements, but overall there is not much that needs to be replaced. I have made up an extensive list and everything will pretty much get pulled apart and repainted, with the exception of the headliner and carpet which will be replaced (already have new ones). As for purchases, it really doesn't need anything, perhaps some new glass (pm me if you have windows for sale) and some chrome door trims as well as drip tray moldings. The grill is probably one of the best ive seen and will end up going to Vinny's to be refinished (anodised i think) along with the headlight surround. Tail lights are pretty good and will need a clean up, and some new silver stripes drawn on the lenses. Cars came with many goodies, and had a V8 in it about 15 years ago, or so i am told. I'm currently negotiating with the NSW RTA to get some more information which is proving difficult.

The car is a bit of an XU1 mockup which i quite like, has a few goodies like fuel cap, bob tail, gtr trim, pearled gtr steering wheel. Seats are absolutely 100% immaculate, and from an LJ GTR if i am not mistaken. Car is a 202, 500 holley, auto but will soon be fitted with manual gear and a 3.36 LSD, all of which i have sitting in the garage. It came with 6x9's in the parcel shelf which will have to go as they cant be flush mounted, will hide them somewhere and fit my brand new parcel shelf cover and kick panel trims.

I think that's about it, ill probably get stuck into it real soon, want to have it ready for summer. Absolutely love driving it as is but cannot wait until it's finished. The only thing i am concerned about is repainting it. Definitely needs a respray as it lacks gloss, but not sure how to go about it as i can't do it right away and don't want it to sit stripped for months on end. I was thinking about finishing the interior but instead of removing the windscreen, tucking the new headlining in to the rubber as much as i can just for the time being until the windows comes out and the car gets painted. That way i can just tuck in the headliner properly when it's done.

driving home... speedo got stuck, fuel gauge couldn't decide where it wanted to be (bad sender perhaps??). Brake booster shit itself, car overheated once but bought some coolant from the servo and never happened again. throttle cable came off its bracket and couldnt start the car for 2 hours after parking on a hill. great trip hey!!

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how do they finish the steering wheel like that?

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home sweet home

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what could it be?

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think its an LJ dash. 2/73 and 11/71 + late model amp meter

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dont even know why i bought these. they were cheap tho!

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Yeah so thats about it. dash will get a nice clean up and paint, satin black is the right colour isnt it? the only thing is i'm not sure what the extra light is for? factory cutout but the red lense looks to be a home job. Not going to bother changing the later VDO gauge but will have to take off the chrome ring it doesnt look right. Anyone have ideas on how to restore the clear lenses and what to paint the needles with?

As for installing the dash i have NO idea, could someone shed some light? im guessing i would need an oil pressure sender, amp sensor of some sort and temp sender? are these found on the car or aftermarket purchases? also what about the RPM gauge what do i do there!

First thing on the cards is the booster. Will be taken off this week and sent away to get done, will be able to stop for the first time woohoo! Will put in the manual shortly too, very excited. Little but confused though as im not sure how to set up the clutch and bearing thing.

Thanks
Jacob

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#2 _judgelj_

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Posted 29 May 2012 - 09:37 PM

Dropped the booster off at the shop today.. bloke will give me a ring back and let me know what it needs. interested to find out as prices vary greatly with most of them being on the dear side. i noticed two washers fall off the studs on the back of the booster, each of the four nuts had a washer and spring washer behind them yet there were two significantly larger washers there as well. They fell off and im not sure where they went or why there is two? ill give it a paint when it gets back. im thinking black or silver. what is a good method for painting with rattle cans, longevity of the finish in mind. Should i use degreaser to wash it after a light sand (is it the same as wax and grease remover) and spray enamel straight over the top? or should i lay a primer down first and sand it with various grits until smooth?

Ill be putting the dash in just for now so i can get sell what i dont need, can anyone advise on what is going to be compatible in the loom and what is not? i.e, rpm, oil pressure etc.

and some more pics

what do you guys think about slime line plates on an LC. not sure how mine would look?
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need to relocate the speakers somewhere
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Cheers

Edited by judgelj, 29 May 2012 - 09:40 PM.

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#3 Ice

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Name:Gene
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Posted 29 May 2012 - 09:47 PM

Is that bruces old car did you buy it of him jacob

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#4 _judgelj_

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Posted 29 May 2012 - 11:27 PM

sure is pal

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#5 Ice

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 12:07 AM

very nice car indeed

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#6 _judgelj_

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Posted 31 May 2012 - 10:48 PM

Yeah shes great. Got heaps of good bits and an excellent starting point.

Finished my discussions with the RTA, there is nothing there (limited records) to suggest it was ever registered with a V8. Bummer! Poor bloke didnt even know that the engine prefix was an indication of the type of motor and the car it came out of!

Anyway pick up my booster tomorrow and might start my wiring loom for the dash in the meantime.
So far this is my plan
- Replace oil switch with sender
- Replace temp switch with sender
- Attach amp gauge to alternator somehow?
- Use existing fuel gauge wiring
- Connect rpm gauge to negative side of coil (how do i connect it to the shaft looking thing on the back)
- Re attach brake and high beam lights where necessary.

Still not sure about extra wiring and what the extra light is on my dash...

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#7 S pack

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Posted 31 May 2012 - 11:46 PM

Yeah shes great. Got heaps of good bits and an excellent starting point.

Finished my discussions with the RTA, there is nothing there (limited records) to suggest it was ever registered with a V8. Bummer! Poor bloke didnt even know that the engine prefix was an indication of the type of motor and the car it came out of!

Anyway pick up my booster tomorrow and might start my wiring loom for the dash in the meantime.
So far this is my plan
- Replace oil switch with sender
- Replace temp switch with sender
- Attach amp gauge to alternator somehow?
- Use existing fuel gauge wiring
- Connect rpm gauge to negative side of coil (how do i connect it to the shaft looking thing on the back)
- Re attach brake and high beam lights where necessary.

Still not sure about extra wiring and what the extra light is on my dash...

G/day Jacob

The tachometer has three male spade connectors on the back, one for +12V, one for the trigger wire to the negative post on coil (you will have to install this wire as it isn't in the standard harness) and one for an earth.
I presume the shaft looking thing you mention is the speedo cable connection.

The handbrake & brake fail warning light goes to the lens at the top centre of the 1973 instrument cluster. The lower lens is not used on the 73 cluster. Your amp gauge doesn't look like it has provision for the generator warning light so maybe do what Eric (Ribz0) did with his dash and put the GEN warning light to the lower lens or the upper lens, whichever you prefer.

You won't need to modify the high beam or indicator lamps, they will plug straight into the GTR cluster.
Also make sure you disconnect (make redundant) the TEMP warning light test wire (Green) running from the bulb holder to the ignition switch.

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#8 _hqlden_

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Posted 31 May 2012 - 11:53 PM

Just googles gtr dash torana to see about the light and what would u know my lj is there. WOW

Ps its a brake fail light that got added in 73

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#9 _hqlden_

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Posted 31 May 2012 - 11:58 PM

We have it in ours

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#10 _judgelj_

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:43 AM

Dave you are right, for some reason i was thinking the tacho was on the right and speedo left. It is the speedo cable connection my mistake. So if the lower center lens is not used what was it there for originally? Is this perhaps a LC cluster with LJ gauges?

What gauge wire should i be using? As for the oil, temp do i need to install extra wiring?

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#11 _judgelj_

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 06:14 PM

Went and picked up my booster yesterday, can't complain. Not bad at $300 and he even sprayed it too!

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Chucked it in the car with not much hassle and wow what a difference, still a bit touchy but i would rather more brakes then no brakes. funny thing i might add was when i went for a little road test to refuel i couldn't understand why it was missing so bad (awesome idle though). car would not make any power and just spluttered its way to the servo. open the bonnet and hello one of the leads were off, that will teach me to forget things!!

One thing i noticed was that the dashs brake light is permanently on. Theres a wire than plugs up to a little stud thing just underneath the MC and between the two brake lines. When i pull it off the light goes away, whats this?

Cheers

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#12 Obey 1

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:08 PM

^{Hi Jacob...not familiar with the little Toranas but I am sure it will be the same thing as on my LX}
^{The wire is connected to a Brake Warning Switch. Remove that wire and then undo the warning switch with a spanner.}
^{This should reset the piston between the two brake pipes and the light should go off.}

^{Have you had any Brake probs ??Loss of fluid..there should be a reason why the the light has come on !}
^{The light comes on when you have had a failure in one of your brake circuits and this moves the piston internally thus putting the light on.}

Edited by Obey 1, 02 June 2012 - 07:10 PM.

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#13 _judgelj_

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:17 PM

^{Have you had any Brake probs ??Loss of fluid..there should be a reason why the the light has come on !}
^{The light comes on when you have had a failure in one of your brake circuits and this moves the piston internally thus putting the light on.}

That sounds a bout right now that you mention it... Does brake booster failure count as one of these problems? It came on around the same time i was driving with a leaking booster and applying immense pressure on the pedal to stop.

Cheers

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#14 Obey 1

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:20 PM

Not 100% sure about the booster....
perhaps reset the switch and have a good look at your brakes and lines to see if anything is leaking and see if the light comes back on

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#15 _judgelj_

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:27 PM

Well it did come on at that time so would make sense but will definitely have a look, i appreciate that. will give it a go tomorrow, however i am a bit unclear about what i am unscrewing. the stud thing that i remove the write from or do i need to follow the wire to other way until i find a connection and unscrew that?

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#16 Obey 1

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:31 PM

Yep..the stud thing that the wire is connected to. on the brake proportioning valve.(between the two brake lines)

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#17 Obey 1

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:52 PM

This might help !!

Edited by Obey 1, 02 June 2012 - 07:54 PM.

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#18 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 12:12 PM

that's great information there. ill give it a go shortly!

anyway, spent the last two days fitting this
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which was purchased for a measly $200 several months ago. had it sent to Jay at Gearex who fitted new shims and spider gears however only the carrier was sent so i had to adjust the crown and pinion clearance at home. i had a friend help who painted the crown and adjusted it until there was a nice even wear pattern though after pulling it out from another diff i found the oil had some flakes in it and the paint on the crown wheel was worn off completely and the surface polished. this would have happened only after minimal driving in the other car and would indicate to me it was adjusted incorrectly. i've since put this in the LC and my question is how bad does this have to be before i go pulling it out and taking it to a shop to adjust correctly. what is the worst that can happen and how likely as the oil was extremely clean and the flakes were tiny and primarily on the bottom. the viscosity of the oil was still good as opposed to the diff oil i drained before hand which was so full of flakes it had turned into a sludge.

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The underneath of the car is surprisingly clean, it must have been painted at some point and looks great. i did notice two plates with new looking bolts and i wondered what they were... they are to the left of the tail shaft in the above pic just behind the cross member, anyone know what the plate is for? im assuming something inside but it looks quite new.

anyway went in good with the exception of the two smaller bolts that had to be used in place of the long bolts on the previous diff. what do people use here as the bolts i purchased from the shop had a rather large head and although on fit in with a socket the other could only be screwed a 1/4 turn at a time which is not only irritating but impossible to get some tension in the bolt as you run out of room. if anyone has the same thread bolt with a had smaller than 14 perhaps 12 i would be interested as i cannot find anything in the shops.

apart from that had to adjust the mixtures a little as it has been running progressively worse since getting it home. i thought it may have something to do with getting the booster fixed and repairing the vacuum leak but can't seem to get it running correctly. right now it will idle at the very least but has a terrible flat spot every time you punch the pedal and will bog down as soon as you remove your foot after giving it some stick... also i find the the throttle pedal is very hard and would like to get it back to being a little flappy with more resistance towards the end of its travel, any ideas?

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#19 S pack

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Name:Dave
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Car:73 LJ
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Posted 13 June 2012 - 12:50 PM

that's great information there. ill give it a go shortly!

anyway, spent the last two days fitting this

which was purchased for a measly $200 several months ago. had it sent to Jay at Gearex who fitted new shims and spider gears however only the carrier was sent so i had to adjust the crown and pinion clearance at home. i had a friend help who painted the crown and adjusted it until there was a nice even wear pattern though after pulling it out from another diff i found the oil had some flakes in it and the paint on the crown wheel was worn off completely and the surface polished. this would have happened only after minimal driving in the other car and would indicate to me it was adjusted incorrectly. i've since put this in the LC and my question is how bad does this have to be before i go pulling it out and taking it to a shop to adjust correctly. what is the worst that can happen and how likely as the oil was extremely clean and the flakes were tiny and primarily on the bottom. the viscosity of the oil was still good as opposed to the diff oil i drained before hand which was so full of flakes it had turned into a sludge.

The underneath of the car is surprisingly clean, it must have been painted at some point and looks great. i did notice two plates with new looking bolts and i wondered what they were... they are to the left of the tail shaft in the above pic just behind the cross member, anyone know what the plate is for? im assuming something inside but it looks quite new.

anyway went in good with the exception of the two smaller bolts that had to be used in place of the long bolts on the previous diff. what do people use here as the bolts i purchased from the shop had a rather large head and although on fit in with a socket the other could only be screwed a 1/4 turn at a time which is not only irritating but impossible to get some tension in the bolt as you run out of room. if anyone has the same thread bolt with a had smaller than 14 perhaps 12 i would be interested as i cannot find anything in the shops.

apart from that had to adjust the mixtures a little as it has been running progressively worse since getting it home. i thought it may have something to do with getting the booster fixed and repairing the vacuum leak but can't seem to get it running correctly. right now it will idle at the very least but has a terrible flat spot every time you punch the pedal and will bog down as soon as you remove your foot after giving it some stick... also i find the the throttle pedal is very hard and would like to get it back to being a little flappy with more resistance towards the end of its travel, any ideas?

G/day Jacob.
The two new looking bolts appear to be front passenger seat mounting bolts.
Maybe you need a lighter throttle return spring on the carb or linkage???
Probably best to talk to Jay @ Gearex about your diff concerns.

Cheers
Dave.

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#20 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 02:18 PM

i might PM him...

the same bracket and bolts appear on both sides, ill have a look when i take the seats out. and as for the throttle, i haven't had a good look at it but that is a start i will check it out tomorrow. the pedal on my lj is quite flappy and would tighten up closer to the floor just about where it would kick down a gear.

cheers

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#21 _Hamster_

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 05:20 PM

have u sold your 4 door yet mate?

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#22 S pack

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Name:Dave
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Posted 13 June 2012 - 07:17 PM

i might PM him...

the same bracket and bolts appear on both sides, ill have a look when i take the seats out.

cheers

Definitely the bolts that secure the seats to the floor pan.

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#23 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 June 2012 - 10:18 PM

have u sold your 4 door yet mate?

yeah pal

cyaaa

and yeah dave had a look i think you are right, everything looks funny when the diff is 2 inches above your head and you are working in the dark.

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#24 _judgelj_

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:07 PM

Well got some of my trims sorted and ready to go in!

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I wanted to ask what i can do to strip my dash cluster and lower dash section back to bare plastic without damaging the texture. I have heard of using oven cleaner but would not know if this is safe. Essentially i want to paint them with satin black vinyl paint but do not know how to go about it.

P.S. The LSD worked exceptionally well, big thanks to Jay from Gearex, mate i dont know what you did but the car would not hesitate to step out, even with light throttle work, cheers!!!

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#25 debkar

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 05:26 AM

Hi Jacob

Great looking car, awesome color.

What manual box are you installing? Don't forget to check to make sure you have spigot shaft bearing in the crank end that suits the manual box you have.

Also, I have just converted my LC 2 door from factory auto to manual and had to remove the auto inhibitor switch as well.

Keep up the good work,

Regards Simon