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LC S Coupe Rebuild


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#651 sibhs

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Posted 08 December 2014 - 11:15 PM

Soo, guess who had to get another road worth because their reg expired and was subsequently cancelled, lol whoops.

 

But anyway all done now. Locknut came loose on one of the rockers and stuffed me up on a trip this morning. Got a replacement as well as some regular 3/8 unf nuts to go on top. Managed to change the faulty door rubber, re mount the side mirror and syphon 1/2 a litre of oil out of the sump. So all going good-ish except for two things.

 

Firstly, my M/C is weeping and it looks like it has melted some of the engine bay paint, fantastic!! What can i do about this for now? Quick fix-ish type until i rebuild it. What seal is weaping exactly? Its from the back.

Also noticed this, ideas?
IMG_4720_zps6dfe4344.jpg

Hi Jacob,

I don't think there's a quick fix for M/C apart from putting a container under drip.

 

Could that be oil and water mixed gunk on radiator cap? Hope not!

 

Marty



#652 _ljxu1torana_

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 12:53 AM

it looks like a disese



#653 _judgelj_

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 12:01 PM

put posi locks on the rockers.

I didnt put posi locks but i did lock on some UNF nuts.

 

Oooh bit of gunk in that radiator time for an engine flush maybe

Brand new radiator and motor was flushed.

Hoping it's nothing sinister, but it's only on the top of the water level.



#654 S pack

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 06:54 PM

I didnt put posi locks but i did lock on some UNF nuts.

 

Brand new radiator and motor was flushed.

Hoping it's nothing sinister, but it's only on the top of the water level.

Oil floats on water remember.

Oil in the coolant normally presents as a creamy sludge on the radiator cap.



#655 _judgelj_

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Posted 09 December 2014 - 07:33 PM

Correct, although i thought it would be more of a film than brown crud. Could this be corrosion? 



#656 TerrA LX

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 08:57 AM

If it is not oily in consistency then I would hazard a guess it is the mud that settles at the bottom of the block.
I have seen blocks with over 25mm/1 inch of it.
I presume it is from rust scale broken down with heavy minerals and non filtered/distilled tap water (dirt/mud).



#657 _judgelj_

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 01:43 PM

That's what i was thinking. Didnt seem like oil to me more like the crud that sits in the block.

 

Is there a rear seal in the Big nut master cylinder than controls fluid leakage at the back of the piston?



#658 TerrA LX

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 04:10 PM

Knock a welsh plug out and have a look.

In the past I have removed the plugs and got the garden hose in there and flushed the crud out from the block.



#659 sibhs

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 05:14 PM

That's what i was thinking. Didnt seem like oil to me more like the crud that sits in the block.
 
Is there a rear seal in the Big nut master cylinder than controls fluid leakage at the back of the piston?



There's no rear seal, just the piston seals. Leaking at rear can be caused by pitted piston.
Honestly best to pull it off and get it rebuilt by a pro. I've heard of prices of $250 for sleeving and kit. I can't see how they do it for that price.
Just the kit cost me $200 which includes new pistons.
Marty

#660 _Agent 34_

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 06:41 PM

Jacob,

 

take the oil cap off and see if there is any there as well.

 

If you have been getting some heat cycles through the motor then will move on the crud on the bock.

 

Is the temp still OK?



#661 _judgelj_

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 09:38 PM

I saw the kit it was around $200 on ebay. I was thinking about a bit of silicone but i dont know... It's a bit dodgy. Funny thing is it never leaked until i pulled it off to paint.

Cleaned as much of the corrosion out as i could when i had the motor in pieces and welsh plugs out. Could just be a build of metal particles.



Temp seems ok'ish. A little higher than i would like but doesnt spike.



#662 S pack

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 09:49 PM

Only way to stop the m/cyl rear cup leaking is replace it and repair the m/cyl bore as reqd.



#663 _judgelj_

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 12:18 PM

Interesting, i wonder why it only started leaking after paint. Must be a coincidence. Ill price up a rebuild.



#664 _LHSL308_

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 02:40 PM

Interesting, i wonder why it only started leaking after paint. Must be a coincidence. Ill price up a rebuild.

Can happen mate.

 

I removed everything in my engine bay including the CRS hydraulic clutch master cylinder. It never leaked or played up before it was removed, then after it was put back in we found it was leaking. We took it to Hopper Stoppers for a rebuild which didn't cost much.



#665 _judgelj_

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 06:55 PM

Oh no way, that's new as well, cant see why it would start. Maybe they dont like being handled if on their way out. Ill call hoppers stoppers but ill also try Zeds in sunshine. See if they can quote over the phone.

 

Good experience with the mob in hoppers?


Edited by judgelj, 11 December 2014 - 06:57 PM.


#666 _LHSL308_

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 07:22 PM

Always a good experience at Hoppers mate. Their work is among the best but I would definitely get a quote first.

#667 _judgelj_

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 07:53 PM

I called them once found the bloke to be a bit rude. But who knows ill give them another bell.



#668 _judgelj_

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 07:19 PM

..


Edited by judgelj, 30 December 2014 - 07:27 PM.


#669 _LHSL308_

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 09:55 AM

Did you get it fixed Jacob?

On another note you up for a cruise on Tuesday.

#670 _judgelj_

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 10:25 AM

Not fixed, tried to put up a video of the car running now, didnt work.

 

This is the link.
http://vidmg.photobu...zps92yj37ry.mp4

 

Where you boys going.



#671 _LHSL308_

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 11:04 AM

Going for a cruise down to the Great Ocean Road to Aireys Inlet.

 

http://www.freestonesroadhaven.com.au/



#672 _judgelj_

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 11:23 AM

Wow too far for me but that diner looks awesome!



#673 _LHSL308_

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 04:33 PM

Yeah it is awesome. I'm sure we can find a seat for you if you want to come mate.

#674 _judgelj_

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 03:21 PM

So dropped the M/C off today to be rebuilt. Cost starts at $160 which seems reasonable providing it doesnt need re sleeving.

 

Asked the guy if my lack of initial brake peal could be a missing reaction disc and he responded with a very firm no. Said that if that was the case my brake pedal would operate 1" from the ground. At the moment there is a fair bit of play, but definitely doesn't engage one inch from the ground. Perhaps it was a leaky M/C all along?



#675 _judgelj_

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Posted 11 March 2015 - 09:09 PM

Also, the push rod in my booster slipped out whilst in the backseat of my ute. Is this bad?






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