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LC S Coupe Rebuild


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#26 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 06:41 PM

Hi Jacob

Great looking car, awesome color.

What manual box are you installing? Don't forget to check to make sure you have spigot shaft bearing in the crank end that suits the manual box you have.

Also, I have just converted my LC 2 door from factory auto to manual and had to remove the auto inhibitor switch as well.

Keep up the good work,

Regards Simon


Simon,

That's good to hear i was actually going to jump on here and ask a few questions. I might PM you for more detail but i thought the auto had no bush on the crank end therefore i would need a new one anyway? Can it be purchased from bursons easily enough? It will be an Aussie 4 speed, and i pretty much have everything required for the conversion minus a couple of bolts for the rat trap and shifter, i presume these will be easy enough to get?

#27 S pack

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 09:37 PM

Simon,

That's good to hear i was actually going to jump on here and ask a few questions. I might PM you for more detail but i thought the auto had no bush on the crank end therefore i would need a new one anyway? Can it be purchased from bursons easily enough? It will be an Aussie 4 speed, and i pretty much have everything required for the conversion minus a couple of bolts for the rat trap and shifter, i presume these will be easy enough to get?


G/day Jacob

I found out last year that GMH still service the crank spigot bush for the old red, blue & black 6's with manual transmission.
If your local Holden delaer doesn't have one in stock tell them to order one in.
Eagers @ Newstead here in Brissy keep them in stock so if your stuck PM me and I could get one for you.

#28 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 10:11 PM

Well i assumed Bursons would have one more than likely but Holden seem likes my best bet. Thanks for the offer, if no luck i will let you know but i hope it doesnt come to that. So am i right in assuming there is no bush there with the auto trans and i will have to purchase one? How much do they cost out of curiosity?

#29 S pack

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 10:18 PM

Well i assumed Bursons would have one more than likely but Holden seem likes my best bet. Thanks for the offer, if no luck i will let you know but i hope it doesnt come to that. So am i right in assuming there is no bush there with the auto trans and i will have to purchase one? How much do they cost out of curiosity?


The torque convertor has a stubby spindle type protrusion that sits into the recess in the end of the crankshaft where the spigot bush goes for a manual transmission.

Bursons might stock them aswell, can't hurt to ask.

From memory the guy at Eagers said they were approx $10.00 but he or I could be wrong.

#30 debkar

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 01:31 AM

The torque convertor has a stubby spindle type protrusion that sits into the recess in the end of the crankshaft where the spigot bush goes for a manual transmission.

Bursons might stock them aswell, can't hurt to ask.

From memory the guy at Eagers said they were approx $10.00 but he or I could be wrong.


Hi Dave and Jacob

Holden had them two years ago at $8.65, couldn't beat that price. Repco, same time was I think $15.65

Jacob, any help needed just PM me, conversion was quite easy, crossmember, talshaft, speedo, etc all same.

I did change speedo drive as I went from 2.78 to 3.90 ratio.

Regards SImon

#31 debkar

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 01:43 AM

Simon,

That's good to hear i was actually going to jump on here and ask a few questions. I might PM you for more detail but i thought the auto had no bush on the crank end therefore i would need a new one anyway? Can it be purchased from bursons easily enough? It will be an Aussie 4 speed, and i pretty much have everything required for the conversion minus a couple of bolts for the rat trap and shifter, i presume these will be easy enough to get?


Hi Jacob

If you are short parts, drop me a line, I'll see what I have.

I used a 4 cyl clutch pedal and cable for my car, so I don't need any of the rat trap

Regards Simon

#32 _judgelj_

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 09:26 AM

PM sent

#33 _judgelj_

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 09:45 AM

I just want to make sure it all goes to plan as im using my uncles hoist on a saturday and it must be gone sunday. If anything goes wrong ill be in big trouble!

Just to make sure this is the clutch setup i have, do they look about right?
Posted Image
Posted Image

Should there be a gap between the fly wheel and pressure plate?

#34 S pack

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 10:04 AM

That clutch set up looks correct for your car but hard to say 100% from pics.
That gap between the pressure plate mounting tabs and the flywheel is correct otherwise there wouldn't be any clamping pressure on the clutch plate.
Also hope you are going to get those rusty surfaces machined.

#35 orangeLJ

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 01:07 PM

The flywheel definitely needs a machine, the clutch you might get away with some emery and a light scuff up

#36 _judgelj_

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 02:10 PM

yeah flywheel will go in the next couple of days to get done definitely. does the pressure plate need machining or can i get away with some emery?

#37 S pack

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 03:05 PM

yeah flywheel will go in the next couple of days to get done definitely. does the pressure plate need machining or can i get away with some emery?


If the pressure plate is brand new and the rust hasn't pitted into the suface then some emery paper run over it should clean up the surface, however if it is used or there is rust pitting occurring then I'd have it checked and machined if it's suitable for reuse.

Edited by S pack, 20 June 2012 - 03:06 PM.


#38 debkar

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 09:00 PM

PM back, don't forget the clutch pedal over centre return spring, important to make the pedal return from the floor,

Good luck

Regards Simon

#39 debkar

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 09:07 PM

http://s671.photobuc...afilter=noflash


He that worked,

Edited by debkar, 20 June 2012 - 09:08 PM.


#40 _judgelj_

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 09:51 PM

oh thanks for that, and i just remembered, that's what i want!! does anyone have an electronic copy of the workshop manual, or photocopies of the rat trap assembly part? I have the LH manual which describes rat trap assembly but is it the same one as the LC/LJ?

#41 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 05:08 PM

Ok so i drilled out the snapped bolt in the flywheel and it is ready to be sent off and machined. At the same times i need to source some bolts. What have people done short of buying bolt kits as i have to obtain bolts within a day or so? I was thinking about going to the engineering shop with the bolt i drilled out and have them match the thread in high tensile. As for the flywheel to crank bolts i am not so sure this is as simple? Not even sure of the thread or length, help would be appreciated!

Same goes for the rat trap as i do not have the bolts to go with it.

#42 warrenm

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:04 AM

Was the broken bolt a flywheel bolt or pressure plate bolt? The pressure plate bolts are grade 8 3/8"unc ,with a long unthreaded section, replace the 4 as a set. The flywheel bolts are 3/8' unf. Use ARP 206-2802 kit which fits a Mini for the flywheel blots.

#43 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 June 2012 - 01:58 PM

you are a legend! yeah it was a pressure plate bolt. so can i buy both sets individually from the engineering shop or should i do that only with the pressure plate bolts and buy the ARP kit for the flywheel? Should i ask for them to suit a Mini or Holden 6?

Cheers

#44 warrenm

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 07:18 AM

The ARP flywheel bolts are to suit a "BMC A Series" ARP 206-2802, $24 at VPW.

#45 _judgelj_

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:42 PM

Had a chat to my mechanic and i'm confident in buying them individually from the engineering shop.

On a another note, today i received my headlining, door rubbers and 1/4 window seals so i must look at fitting them all shortly. Will fit the headlining, kick panels, parcel shelf and carpet in one go without removing the windscreen. How well will it fit without windscreen removed, can i get it done relatively well? I received it in ribbed and was thinking it would be roebuck, does anyone know which was fitted to what car?

Also will have to restore my center console, so far i will need to buy a surround, pattern sticker and i will make up my own gear stick surround and boot, the only thing i am confused about is installation? Do i just drill it straight into the tunnel? If so will silver self tappers suffice, were they exposed from factory or do i need some sort of plastic button cover?

Cheers

#46 S pack

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 10:36 PM

Had a chat to my mechanic and i'm confident in buying them individually from the engineering shop.

On a another note, today i received my headlining, door rubbers and 1/4 window seals so i must look at fitting them all shortly. Will fit the headlining, kick panels, parcel shelf and carpet in one go without removing the windscreen. How well will it fit without windscreen removed, can i get it done relatively well? I received it in ribbed and was thinking it would be roebuck, does anyone know which was fitted to what car?

Also will have to restore my center console, so far i will need to buy a surround, pattern sticker and i will make up my own gear stick surround and boot, the only thing i am confused about is installation? Do i just drill it straight into the tunnel? If so will silver self tappers suffice, were they exposed from factory or do i need some sort of plastic button cover?

Cheers


Hi Jacob

The only way to do the headlining properly is to remove the front and rear screens.
Not 100% sure about the correct vinyl pattern for your car however it seems LC's were generally trimmed with Roebuck headlinings but this may have changed to the herringbone pattern late in the 1971 LC model run. Pm John Gong (LONA CK), he will know for sure.

The three Console mounting screws are black.(blued just like on gun barrels etc) Phillips Pan head self tappers. Can't quite remember their exact size but either 1.5" or 1.25" x 8g, I think.
And yes they screw straight into the transmission tunnel and no they don't have any plastic caps to cover the screw heads.

Cheers
Dave

#47 _judgelj_

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 09:36 AM

I'm not too worried about originality but not sure how it will look as i have some sort of roebuck/long grain seating and similar gtr door trims. Oh and i realise it wont fit properly, i just wanted to fit it for the time being until the time to pain comes along so i am not removing the windscreens twice, if that makes sense?

That's interesting, thought they would tap the hole first and fit regular non self tapping screws from factory, but thank you anyway

Edited by judgelj, 26 June 2012 - 09:38 AM.


#48 S pack

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 03:54 PM

That's interesting, thought they would tap the hole first and fit regular non self tapping screws from factory, but thank you anyway


It's only sheetmetal, drill a 1/8" hole and screw in the self tapper..

#49 _judgelj_

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 07:13 PM

Oh i know that much just feel it's a bit 'untidy' for factory standards, but will do if that is the way it was done, doesn't bother me.

Cheers

#50 _judgelj_

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Posted 05 July 2012 - 11:46 AM

Ok well i've got a crap load of new stuff and stuff done so will get pictures up (broke 2 iphones so no camera). In the meantime, and before i do the manual conversion, what speedo gear will i need for a 3.36 from im guessing a 2.78 and where can i purchase it? cheers!




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