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Flywheel bolts

Started by hanra , Jul 13 2012 08:50 PM

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80 replies to this topic

#26 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 03:23 PM

I looked at that, doesnt look like it would leave much material around the ooutside of the flange??

Cheers.

This crank is 7/16 UNF. See pic...

(Ps. I try to stay out of the loctite / which sealer type threads as there is more than one way to skin a cat...but...you can see some in the pic so there is my 2 cents)

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#27 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 03:27 PM

drill the crank flange to 7/16 unf, and use '351 Nascar' ARP bolts, direct fit, no shortening and cost $25-30 bucks to replace them.

Got a part number? I've always thought there has to be a better way than shortening bolts to suit.

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#28 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 03:33 PM

...Get a thread gauge and measure the threads stretch...

Not familar with this. Can you elaborate. Pics would even better.

Cheers.

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#29 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 06:16 PM

Cheers Ned, that looks alright.

Cheers.

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#30 greens nice

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:25 PM

Got a part number? I've always thought there has to be a better way than shortening bolts to suit.

350-2802

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#31 hanra

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 08:57 PM

You guys do the bolts up to 65ft lb as per the w/shop manual?

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#32 _judgelj_

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:26 PM

i just use grade 8 HT 3/8x1" UNF with loktite and they are fine. for most people it is only a mild application.

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#33 greens nice

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:48 PM

i just use grade 8 HT 3/8x1" UNF with loktite and they are fine. for most people it is only a mild application.

these will be even worse than the BMC ARP bolts. literally no clamping area

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#34 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:26 AM

350-2802

Thanks.

You guys do the bolts up to 65ft lb as per the w/shop manual?

I do them up to ARP spec.

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#35 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 08:42 AM

Kevin it really depends what the application is for. Racing is a different story. my mechanic uses the rattle gun and loktite for most cars, and he has been in the industry for 25 years.

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#36 orangeLJ

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 10:40 AM

Not familar with this. Can you elaborate. Pics would even better.

Cheers.

measure is probably a misleading term.

"guage the threads stretch" is probably a better way of putting it-

stolen from a random ford forum post that came up on google-

[url="http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/q2/1i/use-thread-gauge-1.2-800X800.jpg"]http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/q2/1i/use-thread-gauge-1.2-800X800.jpg[/url]

By using a good set of thread guages, you can physically eye off the stretch.

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#37 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 18 July 2012 - 11:21 AM

measure is probably a misleading term.

"guage the threads stretch" is probably a better way of putting it-

stolen from a random ford forum post that came up on google-

[url=

By using a good set of thread guages, you can physically eye off the stretch.

Ok i see. I'd suggest not using that to gauge the threads stretch.

IMHO for flywheel bolts the only real way to do it is to measure length the bolt length before assembly, and then measure when you tear down. Bin if bolt has deformed plastically (IIRC the ARP limit for length increase is .0005")

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#38 orangeLJ

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 09:55 AM

image didnt work that time around-

Posted Image

I've never had an issue with reusing flywheel bolts, or from using this method to look for deformity.

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#39 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 03:08 PM

I don't claim to have golden eyes or anything, but I've found most of the time you can actually see when It's time to replace the flywheel bolts, it's pretty much the same I find with head bolts.

I've re-used flywheel bolts with loctite - no probs
I've re-used flywheel bolts with GMH thread sealant - no probs
I've used new high tensile bolt shop bolts (for piece of mind I wouldn't do that again) with GMH thread sealant but - no probs
I've used ARP bolts with loctite - no probs

The bolt shop bolts were even fitted for a year of hard cruising - the stroker spins up to 6k real quick and didn't have any issues at all.

I just make sure: Clean threads, clean surfaces, loctite and do up to specs in star pattern.

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#40 dattoman

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Posted 19 July 2012 - 03:49 PM

Some bolts are torque to yelid and need to be replaced each time
Such as Rodeo/Gemini

Many people wouldn't know so don't do it

Old Holdens however can be re-used as long as they have not been stretched or damaged
I use loctite on the Dastun race engine
I use 12.9 cap head screws and dril a hole in the side of the head and lockwired them after torquing
They never come loose nodays

I did spit a flywheel off once before I started lockwiring and using the capheads
But I believe the factory bolts I used were slightly too short for the fabricated alloy flywheel and a big overrev downshift was the blame... they were loctited in though

I don't have dowels either... not enough room for them on this crank

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#41 turbotrana

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 01:13 AM

On cast iron flywheels I just add 4 extra 10mm 12.9 grade cap head bolts inbetween the existing stock bolts. That makes 10 bolts in total and solved my problem rattling the bolts off.
When I put an alluminium flywheel on I just used the original 6 bolts and no problems. The ally did assist in the harmonics side of things.

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#42 _rb3torana_

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 07:14 AM

Do dowels really stop the flywheel coming loose when using stock bolts?

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#43 wot179

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 09:56 AM

Kevin it really depends what the application is for. Racing is a different story. my mechanic uses the rattle gun and loktite for most cars, and he has been in the industry for 25 years.

Sounds like a pro.

Hang on to that one.......

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#44 orangeLJ

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 10:08 AM

+1 to the above.....

May as well do them up with a shifter and a length of pipe...

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#45 Heath

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 10:51 AM

^ lmfao

I'm not sure if it's already been said, but holding a flywheel onto your average normal motor is one thing, taking it along for the ride of the back of a 202 that sees 6000rpm + often is another matter.

If it doesn't have vibration problems, I don't think there's anything scientific to it.

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#46 _judgelj_

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 06:33 PM

Sounds like a pro.

Hang on to that one.......

Obviously you're a clever individual. Easy to pass judgment, but until you build your own 9sec race cars from scratch i would probably lay off the sarcasm. Just a thought?

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#47 debkar

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 07:15 PM

Do dowels really stop the flywheel coming loose when using stock bolts?

I use stock NOS Holden bolts (have some sets still) and two dowels each engine. Not 100% sure the dowels are what works, but have never had a loose flywheel in some high revving engines,

This is current engine it is manual just no spiggot shaft bearing fitted in this picture. Black crank used in this one had one dowel standard.

Regards Simon

Posted Image

Edited by debkar, 31 July 2012 - 07:18 PM.

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#48 wot179

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Posted 31 July 2012 - 09:35 PM

Obviously you're a clever individual. Easy to pass judgment, but until you build your own 9sec race cars from scratch i would probably lay off the sarcasm. Just a thought?

Well,my last one only ran 10.86,so I spose I should just shut up.

I obviously have no idea at all.