Just reach up with a long screwie and ark it out.
Cheers.
Flywheel bolts
Started by
hanra
, Jul 13 2012 08:50 PM
80 replies to this topic
#77
Stinga
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- Car:HD Holden ute, and sedan, UC torana
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Posted 05 August 2012 - 04:45 PM
i meant what are you holding onto the starter with? who has a bellhousing on while fitting a flywheel?
#78
orangeLJ
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Posted 06 August 2012 - 09:37 AM
cable ties and duct tape.
#79
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 06 August 2012 - 03:01 PM
Just my 2c on rattle guns, been thru a few workshops over my years on the tools
& I dont as a rule use rattlers for anything to be torqued, air rachet then out
with T/wrench. Been in more than a few shops with air lines pissn air or the
compressors not up to supplying enough pressure for 18 odd mechanics or using
puny 1/4" fittings & lines. & then ya got circus advisors jumping up n down
to get it out quick as,had 1 come-back in around 12 years & wasnt a torque related thing.
It was coz the customer was too tight arsed to replace the part I reported was buggered
& have been asked to "bodgey" things up just to get it out or make the customer happy, which I wont
do as my rep/name means a lot to me,at least. So I get labeled as too slow for dealership
work but I prefer to consider myself as thorough. Then theres the guys going hell for leather
as their only interested in finishing quick as so's to earn bonus for coming in under time.
& some puss buckets today you cant even get a gun into even to get the flywheel off, like
Elantra's for intance, you cant get the box out without dropping the K-frame. You just loosen
the K-frame bolts to drop it a little, pop the shafts & shove the box over & support it leaving
you only 6-8" gap to work in. For these I made a bracket to hold the flywheel from turning &
take off with a breaker bar & refit with locktite & a T/wrench.
I'm about to head back to a shop that has a barely adequate compressor, 1/4" lines/fittings &
the biggest peeve I got is trying to get bloody wheel nuts off after being to a tyre shop, cant
& mostly have to crack the nuts with my 3ft breaker bar 1st. Buggered if I know how the customer
was going to change a flat with just the pissy tools in the car.
I better go now as I've seen too much dodgey sh!t both dealer & customer related to go on about.
J
& I dont as a rule use rattlers for anything to be torqued, air rachet then out
with T/wrench. Been in more than a few shops with air lines pissn air or the
compressors not up to supplying enough pressure for 18 odd mechanics or using
puny 1/4" fittings & lines. & then ya got circus advisors jumping up n down
to get it out quick as,had 1 come-back in around 12 years & wasnt a torque related thing.
It was coz the customer was too tight arsed to replace the part I reported was buggered
& have been asked to "bodgey" things up just to get it out or make the customer happy, which I wont
do as my rep/name means a lot to me,at least. So I get labeled as too slow for dealership
work but I prefer to consider myself as thorough. Then theres the guys going hell for leather
as their only interested in finishing quick as so's to earn bonus for coming in under time.
& some puss buckets today you cant even get a gun into even to get the flywheel off, like
Elantra's for intance, you cant get the box out without dropping the K-frame. You just loosen
the K-frame bolts to drop it a little, pop the shafts & shove the box over & support it leaving
you only 6-8" gap to work in. For these I made a bracket to hold the flywheel from turning &
take off with a breaker bar & refit with locktite & a T/wrench.
I'm about to head back to a shop that has a barely adequate compressor, 1/4" lines/fittings &
the biggest peeve I got is trying to get bloody wheel nuts off after being to a tyre shop, cant
& mostly have to crack the nuts with my 3ft breaker bar 1st. Buggered if I know how the customer
was going to change a flat with just the pissy tools in the car.
I better go now as I've seen too much dodgey sh!t both dealer & customer related to go on about.
J
#80
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
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Posted 12 August 2012 - 10:26 PM
The 3/8 bolts dont have enough clamp force if you are making decent torque, they can stretch and cause fretting. Changing up to 7/16 UNF and ARP bolts will fix it, Mick
#81
rexy
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Posted 27 November 2016 - 09:46 AM
Recently swapped flywheels on the back of a red V8.
My old Gregory's manual says to use thread sealer:
IMG_5637.JPG 170.91K
1 downloads
IMG_5638.JPG 117.61K
1 downloads
Doesn't specify what though.
I ended up using a set of ARP pro bolts that I had lying around. Nice large head for clamping and easier to torque as the head size is larger than the std bolts 11/16. They recommend loctite 242 which nearly no one stocks. The 243 is the replacement product and doesn't require surface prep like the 242 does. Side by side the ARP bolts are a much nicer item than the standard ones.
Couldn't find a torque listing on the ARP site for the Holden. Ended up using 75 lb/ft.
My old Gregory's manual says to use thread sealer:
IMG_5637.JPG 170.91K
1 downloads
IMG_5638.JPG 117.61K
1 downloadsDoesn't specify what though.
I ended up using a set of ARP pro bolts that I had lying around. Nice large head for clamping and easier to torque as the head size is larger than the std bolts 11/16. They recommend loctite 242 which nearly no one stocks. The 243 is the replacement product and doesn't require surface prep like the 242 does. Side by side the ARP bolts are a much nicer item than the standard ones.
Couldn't find a torque listing on the ARP site for the Holden. Ended up using 75 lb/ft.
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