402 replies to this topic

[madtoranajzedded]

Thanks potta.havnt done much of late.the
firewall is starting to look great.just needs
some fine filler putty in areas to tidy it up.
Done the 2 corners of drs where had pinholes
It amazed me how much rust is between skin
and dr shell right along bottom.would have to
take skin off to fix..been thinking what i
could use that could work its way down into
the rust and slow it down.best i could think
of is plain old cavity wax.tried a dr on
just to see how the line is and isnt too bad.
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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 06 March 2018 - 11:18 PM.

[madtoranajzedded]

Started on lower fender replacement on lhs
needed abit of attention on lip at bottom as
was rounded instead of sqare ..lol..fixed
that.used por metal ready and por'd end of
sill and surrounding area.i buggered up
cutting rapair section and had a gap of
about near 5mm at far rhs but gap gets less
towards other end had to mig it up.grinded
then filed it..just need to put more primer
on rear then can weld on..
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[madtoranajzedded]

Ariel gone..hehe.skills are improving.
getting confident with welding and where it
was once a pain attempting something i quite
enjoy it now..
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[madtoranajzedded]

Gee im bloody happy how that one came out
at the end.bugger all warpage.trimmed the
sheep ear it had on corner makes it look
better.
I might change other side one as not really
happy with it nor the rear sill i done..
thought it was okay till welded and grinded it
back..the frOckin thing has the wrong contour
On the radius and would reqire a strip 3mm of
bog right along it..im going to ask this dude
who has one off a donor if he will swap my
nos visor for it.has to be long enough to do
both sides though..first pic can see how
much there is to trimm off sheepy ear 😂
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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 07 March 2018 - 06:49 PM.

[lc2dr]

Hey Maz,

Just caught up on your posts... It's coming along nicely mate - well done!  

 

Brings back memories of fixing the same rust holes...

 

Cheers,

Jeff

[madtoranajzedded]

Hi guys...
doing the epoxying and the rusty areas ive
completly forgotten about fabbing up some
engine mounts and putting the donk in to see
where i have to do any clearance mods Dammit!!
As im just about to buy the paint for bay.
Pretty easy to get side tracked with these
builds.if it wasnt for a dude asking me a question id probably only realised after
painting it..so im quite relieved atm..phew

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[madtoranajzedded]

Wow..these jz donk take abit getting in there.
buggered if i know how the others done theres.
Ive had to take sump off to get motor in
with the glide attached.and fair dinkum the
block was sitting on the kframe and hitting
on tunnel..had to take it out as the bloody sensor in sump wouldnt clear the k frame then had to take 2 studs that sump nuts go on.
i can see where i have to massage the tunnel..will show pictures shortly.der got
her down in there but thinking what the heck
im going to do about the sump.maybe front
sump is an alternative or dry sump??..i dont
have the faintest what degree the motor has
to b i sorta just go by eye lol..it must be close..
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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 10 March 2018 - 02:33 PM.

[madtoranajzedded]

Sitting on kframe lol.and where its hitting tunnel..you can probably just see it on
lap top..i cant b focked pulling it out again
Feel like ive done a syd to hob winding that
leveller..lol..
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[madtoranajzedded]

Once i get more clearance on tunnel .i can
set angle of engine then think about how im
going to do those mounts lol.when look at
pics above of engine mount on krame they dont
line up..would yous cut them off and move
them bacl in line so they are level??

[madtoranajzedded]

Been mucking about with no real progress.ive
taken all the pan out which is 61mm thick
not 63-64 i put in the dry sump thread,as ive
been looking at a dry sump from dailey to see
whether its worth getting .their billet pans
are 50mm thick so only gain 11mm.put motor
back in and put some small chocks of wood 50mm
thick under block to see if the 10mm gain
helps.it does but bugger all .the sump would
still need another 10 mm for clearance and
Im not sure the angles right.dont even know
what its spose to b at.but if its right im
tempted to take 10 mm off the kframe and shes
right.i have 5mm clearance in tunnel.
i will cut kframe mounts off and move
rearwards so they are in line the enge mount
holes..bought some 5mm flat bar 120mm wide
to make the plates but will source the rubber
Mounts from crs or use tuff mounts bush type.
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[madtoranajzedded]

This is what im thinking.if angle is right
cut 10mm off for clearance if it not ill go another say 5-7mm.ive ordered a digital angle
protractor to get engine on right degree.atm
there 10mm clearanc to firwall and 120mm from
Water pump to rad support.once i have angle worked out and clearance.i can do mounts.
But until then ..zilch..
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[lctriples]

Maz, wonder if you can get a custom sump made/fabricated to suit project as I presume cutting k frame is last resort. You could almost "mock" one up out cardboard and take to a fabricator, check out "PAC PERFORMANCE" website, might give you some ideas. stick with it mate, you are doing a great job! Cheers paul

[madtoranajzedded]

Opened her up to have a little geezer.its not going to get done looking at it hey.
i will fab up another top piece and make it rounded.still needs to go up at rear and the whole motor a little more.if i go up 10 i
will have 10mm clearance at front kframe.but
atm the angle of engine and box looks like its lower than where the diff yoke would b if i
draw an imaginary line.ive got to get
an old diff and bolt that up and what the go
is.im out of my depth here but having ago.
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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 15 March 2018 - 12:55 AM.

[madtoranajzedded]

Sorry Paul..yeah im not really keen on
cutting the kframe so cut the tunnel first.
They have a cast pan that is 61mm thick at
rear for the sump.at front its only 45mm.
I have thought of using a front sump but
Unsure what the go is with the steering rack
im sure they lower it and that puts the
geometry out of wack a little.ill look into
a custom sump .one fella i was chatting to
his rear sump was highy modified and his
kframe is cut and new floor aswell..
his times are well into the 8s..heres the
cast pan what sump goes on..pretty wierd
setup.

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 15 March 2018 - 01:29 AM.

[madtoranajzedded]

Well that little protractor rocked up and
engine was 2. Something out.ive got it to
1.65 deg neg going for 0.0 deg and gearbox
snout it about 3mm from touching tunnel lol.theres a 40mm block under gearbox rubber.
One thing i have known is because shes low in the arse all the tunnel will have to b
modified,but didnt think it was going to b
this much 😮.engine has to come back out as
the tabs on side of block are hitting tunnel.
To get guage to 0.0 the arse end is 70mm off
the ground .dont know what that would equate
to at the box maybe another 20 .im making
a mess 😃
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[madtoranajzedded]

Hey Maz,

Just caught up on your posts... It's coming along nicely mate - well done!  
 
Brings back memories of fixing the same rust holes...
 
Cheers,
Jeff

Thanks Jeff ..didnt see your post buddy.

Ive got my hands full lol..

[Heath]

Toight like a toiger.

Don't have any real advice... when the going gets tough, just keep getting stuck in there, haha. I haven't done this shit before. We're all learning! I would think that some minor adjustments in the K-frame may not be all that big a deal, but it depends on whether a small change in the right section will give you an adequate advantage.

[rexy]

CRS/ Waddington front end might solve your problems?

[madtoranajzedded]

Hi guys.long time no see.shes still sitting there.
Have done bugger all just little bits.ive actually
just lost interest but will plug along with it.
Thought id update some things ive done.have replaced
the drivers side guard lower replacement panel as
wasnt happy with it and done the other side lower sill
which i wasnt happy with either, and the rear qtr lower panel lol which i got halfway through and noticed its
the wrong profile.so redoing that.i guess this is the
reason why ive lost interest..anyway heres some pics.
Hopefully showing you guys can get me motivated again.

Cheers

[madtoranajzedded]

Welded the bonnet hinge brackets on and used some
reface over the areas where i have grinded the spot
welds back..that reface is brilliant
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[madtoranajzedded]

I sanded just about all the reface off.so much easier
than skimming bog over it by hand.
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[madtoranajzedded]

Was dejavu with the rares panel again but this this i
split the panel and added a bigger piece of metal so
it wasnt short.came up better this time.less warpage
and better underneath where it meets the sill
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[madtoranajzedded]

The other side..used reface again to get it flat.i
bought a workqip putty gun to do the job no way would
it spray through a 2.5 tip so i bought an ani gun with
a 3.5 tip..works spot on.
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[madtoranajzedded]

Used the eastwood dent puller on 2 areas on the lower
valance panel.need a better setup than the pins.prick
of a thing trying to weld on too long on dwell with
welder it would melt the pin.wouldnt mind a hook on
end dent puller so i could weld washers.yank too
hard on the pins trying to get dent out they break
i guess using a little heat with torch would help it
better..been too gun shy to use it at this stage
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[madtoranajzedded]

Smear of bog works wonders.thought i had some pics of
it finished in epoxy.came up okay in the end.
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