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tuff 72 4 door


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#76 _jpd86_

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 07:29 PM

make sure the car itself is square,it probably won't be factory stuff isn't great. more importantly make sure the track of the car is square and parallel ,its nothing for a factory car especially this old to be 5mm or more out ,my brother and i put a rear clip in his hilux was out of square 12mm, I'm told apparently this was within toyotas tolerances 



#77 turboman

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 12:41 AM

have you measured your diff to see that the brackets for the 4 links are welded in the correct position,id say that is what is causing the issues by offsetting the diff too much to one side

#78 orangeLJ

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:51 AM

Yeah, nothing is 100% on them from factory.

Every car is different. And I'm yet to come across one that is perfect in terms of being square/symmetrical/ measurement perfect.

#79 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:22 PM

hi guys..i wouldnt know jarryd if the car is square,with the old banjo with the 13x7 hotwires both tires use to rub on the inside of guard so gmh got the housing right.when i removed the original tubs you could see that there was more room in between the chassis rail to tyre than the rhs.

 

the brackets turboman are in correct position.the frame was jigged with housing, mcdonaldbros have done a pretty cool job,very

happy with there work

      

for some reason i got different measurement with it off the ground to when i put it down.i wound the track locator bar over an extra 3mil to

the right i have now 22mm lhs clearance to the rh sides near on 20 .so i have even less of a gap to the guard - tire etc on the right hand side.

 

i dont think im gunna know what the issue is orangelj probably till the diff centre, tailshaft, box motor.heres pics of the right hand side

 and left hand side

 

 

   Attached File  ljzedded 199.jpg   564.56K   4 downloads



#80 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:25 PM

probably one way to fix it would be put a spacer on the lhsAttached File  ljzedded 198.jpg   583.18K   4 downloads



#81 N/A-PWR

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:39 PM

I would worry about that when you get it moving Maz,

with movement, tyre flex, body flex, cornering under power, rim flex etc, you will then know if it does rub. Dave I



oh, and steel flex



#82 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:41 PM

this is where i am going to take out more from the outer guard.which should of been done the first time around,this will help in theclearance department .this should of been done first time around as the top of tub was smaller than the lower sectionAttached File  ljzedded 200.jpg   587.82K   5 downloads



#83 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:53 PM

i was thinkin about when she launches dave if she twists and the tire hit on inside tub-rail etc.

 

the other thing was that the rear would not be square to the front...would be to the right

 

or one square one not



#84 N/A-PWR

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:09 PM

Had a bit of a look around Google for Drag Racing wheel Tub Clearance Rules, to see what they suggest, but was only finding 2 - 3" above the tyre minimum clearance - will look later Maz 



#85 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 08:28 PM

thought i might put some pics up on trimming the lip off firewall. can still see the line as left about 2mm of top panel

lip so there wont be a gap when i go to weld it up.the bottom panel stick out about 3mm more than the top so you need to push it in so you can grind the topAttached File  ljzedded 311.jpg   583.3K   7 downloads



#86 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 08:41 PM

starting to hammer and dolly the remainig bit of the lip down to meet bottom.got arm stuck in the heater hole doing this hahaAttached File  ljzedded 310.jpg   590.59K   4 downloads



#87 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:01 PM

used a long block of wood and jammed it in between the radiator support panel to push the bottom panel level with the top above firewall so i could

dolly it.panel is very strong in this area and need to make a couple cuts so  it doesnt pull the top panel forward after welding.getting thereAttached File  ljzedded 313.jpg   586.15K   4 downloads



#88 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:08 PM

had to take the bonnet hinge support off to get into corner,didnt really want to do this but its done now :)Attached File  ljzedded 307.jpg   576.67K   7 downloads



#89 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:12 PM

need to shrink these photos.all these posts lol.Attached File  ljzedded 309.jpg   95.49K   4 downloads



#90 N/A-PWR

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:17 PM

Good Job Maz,

 

If get the Program IrfanView,

 

I can guide you to shrink your Photo's.



#91 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:22 PM

took this pic in the dark,nearly done grinding. all i need now is a welder :D  Attached File  ljzedded 314.jpg   587.97K   5 downloads



#92 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:28 PM

im absolutley hopeless on these things dave.i will need more than a guide.have noticed when i zoom in

 

on camera they seem to come out smaller.



#93 N/A-PWR

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:33 PM

Get it now Maz,

 

simple as using your keyboard,

 

and let us know when done.



then you can fit 19 pictures into one post



#94 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 05:37 AM

to anyone that wants to do what maz has here,,, removing the lip, the best way to do this job is to weld from the inside before removing the lip,,, here is a pic of the part i mean.

 

post-29243-0-62246300-1379511502_zpsc697

 

once you weld along this channel then cut of lip and makes less grinding and less blow holes.

cheers gong



#95 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:05 PM

Hi john.when i thought of doing it that way was thinking how am i going to get the the 2 panels flat with each other.did you do any hammer and dolly.this is what they look like with without lip,Attached File  ljzedded 315.jpg   61.33K   4 downloadsAttached File  ljzedded 316.jpg   77.21K   3 downloads



#96 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:33 PM

no hammer and dolly needed if you done it the way i have showen,,, you grind only then cut out side lip off.

 

cheers gong



#97 N/A-PWR

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:37 PM

and Maz has made his pictures smaller, great job.



#98 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 04:12 PM

thanks john.looks like ive gone the hard way about it but will still end up with a good result :D

 

 

Dave  :spoton:

 

here's a question .what would be the best 10 amp gas-gasless welder i can buy,wanted a 15 amper but iwould have to wire the shed out

as there is no power in there atm,dont want to do this yet.ive got the money to but want to save the coin for all the rear fabwork i'll be

getting around feb nxt yr

 

cheers



#99 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 06:30 PM

thanks john.looks like ive gone the hard way about it but will still end up with a good result :D

 

 

Dave  :spoton:

 

here's a question .what would be the best 10 amp gas-gasless welder i can buy,wanted a 15 amper but iwould have to wire the shed out

as there is no power in there atm,dont want to do this yet.ive got the money to but want to save the coin for all the rear fabwork i'll be

getting around feb nxt yr

 

cheers

or how about getting a sparky to put a 15a plug or something in the meter box and getting 2 20 metre leads to reach.will that work

would save then as im hearing that the 10a welders arnt that good,i could use my brudders 15a

 

my brudder has a 15 welder,



#100 N/A-PWR

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 06:35 PM

16 amp fuse/plug outlet in my meter box,

 

and then you are all go Maz.

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