make sure the car itself is square,it probably won't be factory stuff isn't great. more importantly make sure the track of the car is square and parallel ,its nothing for a factory car especially this old to be 5mm or more out ,my brother and i put a rear clip in his hilux was out of square 12mm, I'm told apparently this was within toyotas tolerances
tuff 72 4 door
#76 _jpd86_
Posted 01 March 2014 - 07:29 PM
#77
Posted 02 March 2014 - 12:41 AM
#78
Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:51 AM
Every car is different. And I'm yet to come across one that is perfect in terms of being square/symmetrical/ measurement perfect.
#79
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:22 PM
hi guys..i wouldnt know jarryd if the car is square,with the old banjo with the 13x7 hotwires both tires use to rub on the inside of guard so gmh got the housing right.when i removed the original tubs you could see that there was more room in between the chassis rail to tyre than the rhs.
the brackets turboman are in correct position.the frame was jigged with housing, mcdonaldbros have done a pretty cool job,very
happy with there work
for some reason i got different measurement with it off the ground to when i put it down.i wound the track locator bar over an extra 3mil to
the right i have now 22mm lhs clearance to the rh sides near on 20 .so i have even less of a gap to the guard - tire etc on the right hand side.
i dont think im gunna know what the issue is orangelj probably till the diff centre, tailshaft, box motor.heres pics of the right hand side
and left hand side
ljzedded 199.jpg 564.56K 4 downloads
#80
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:25 PM
probably one way to fix it would be put a spacer on the lhs ljzedded 198.jpg 583.18K 4 downloads
#81
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:39 PM
I would worry about that when you get it moving Maz,
with movement, tyre flex, body flex, cornering under power, rim flex etc, you will then know if it does rub. Dave I
oh, and steel flex
#82
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:41 PM
this is where i am going to take out more from the outer guard.which should of been done the first time around,this will help in theclearance department .this should of been done first time around as the top of tub was smaller than the lower section ljzedded 200.jpg 587.82K 5 downloads
#83
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:53 PM
i was thinkin about when she launches dave if she twists and the tire hit on inside tub-rail etc.
the other thing was that the rear would not be square to the front...would be to the right
or one square one not
#84
Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:09 PM
Had a bit of a look around Google for Drag Racing wheel Tub Clearance Rules, to see what they suggest, but was only finding 2 - 3" above the tyre minimum clearance - will look later Maz
#85
Posted 24 August 2014 - 08:28 PM
thought i might put some pics up on trimming the lip off firewall. can still see the line as left about 2mm of top panel
lip so there wont be a gap when i go to weld it up.the bottom panel stick out about 3mm more than the top so you need to push it in so you can grind the top ljzedded 311.jpg 583.3K 7 downloads
#86
Posted 24 August 2014 - 08:41 PM
starting to hammer and dolly the remainig bit of the lip down to meet bottom.got arm stuck in the heater hole doing this haha ljzedded 310.jpg 590.59K 4 downloads
#87
Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:01 PM
used a long block of wood and jammed it in between the radiator support panel to push the bottom panel level with the top above firewall so i could
dolly it.panel is very strong in this area and need to make a couple cuts so it doesnt pull the top panel forward after welding.getting there ljzedded 313.jpg 586.15K 4 downloads
#88
Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:08 PM
had to take the bonnet hinge support off to get into corner,didnt really want to do this but its done now ljzedded 307.jpg 576.67K 7 downloads
#89
Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:12 PM
need to shrink these photos.all these posts lol. ljzedded 309.jpg 95.49K 4 downloads
#91
Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:22 PM
took this pic in the dark,nearly done grinding. all i need now is a welder ljzedded 314.jpg 587.97K 5 downloads
#92
Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:28 PM
im absolutley hopeless on these things dave.i will need more than a guide.have noticed when i zoom in
on camera they seem to come out smaller.
#93
Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:33 PM
Get it now Maz,
simple as using your keyboard,
and let us know when done.
then you can fit 19 pictures into one post
#94 _LONA-CK_
Posted 25 August 2014 - 05:37 AM
to anyone that wants to do what maz has here,,, removing the lip, the best way to do this job is to weld from the inside before removing the lip,,, here is a pic of the part i mean.
once you weld along this channel then cut of lip and makes less grinding and less blow holes.
cheers gong
#95
Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:05 PM
Hi john.when i thought of doing it that way was thinking how am i going to get the the 2 panels flat with each other.did you do any hammer and dolly.this is what they look like with without lip, ljzedded 315.jpg 61.33K 4 downloads ljzedded 316.jpg 77.21K 3 downloads
#96 _LONA-CK_
Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:33 PM
no hammer and dolly needed if you done it the way i have showen,,, you grind only then cut out side lip off.
cheers gong
#97
Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:37 PM
and Maz has made his pictures smaller, great job.
#98
Posted 25 August 2014 - 04:12 PM
thanks john.looks like ive gone the hard way about it but will still end up with a good result
Dave
here's a question .what would be the best 10 amp gas-gasless welder i can buy,wanted a 15 amper but iwould have to wire the shed out
as there is no power in there atm,dont want to do this yet.ive got the money to but want to save the coin for all the rear fabwork i'll be
getting around feb nxt yr
cheers
#99
Posted 25 August 2014 - 06:30 PM
thanks john.looks like ive gone the hard way about it but will still end up with a good result
Dave
here's a question .what would be the best 10 amp gas-gasless welder i can buy,wanted a 15 amper but iwould have to wire the shed out
as there is no power in there atm,dont want to do this yet.ive got the money to but want to save the coin for all the rear fabwork i'll be
getting around feb nxt yr
cheers
or how about getting a sparky to put a 15a plug or something in the meter box and getting 2 20 metre leads to reach.will that work
would save then as im hearing that the 10a welders arnt that good,i could use my brudders 15a
my brudder has a 15 welder,
#100
Posted 25 August 2014 - 06:35 PM
16 amp fuse/plug outlet in my meter box,
and then you are all go Maz.
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