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#101 N/A-PWR

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 06:54 PM

the socket is to be changed, as the electrician didn't have the 15 amp one at that time. ^



http://www.gmh-toran...e-4#entry854131



#102 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 07:00 PM

thanks heaps dave,what will that set me back roughly, a couple 100 ?

 

 

 

that goes back to page 4 lol


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 25 August 2014 - 07:02 PM.


#103 N/A-PWR

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 07:06 PM

Get a Mate Electrician do it for a Carton Maz,

 

as he will have some spare parts around to do the job.

 

 

and yes,

 

when referring to another post,

 

especially when it disappears to the last page,

 

I link them to the current post hey.



#104 _PB.72.LC_

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 08:21 PM

nothing like a tubbed torana!! nice car bud, cant wait to see more progress..



#105 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 31 August 2014 - 05:17 PM

Thanks Pete  slowly getting there  :D  made a little panel to put over the heater hole.not going to weld it in,just going to

weld some small bolts on inside and add a couple in the middle ,will  run some lead or bondo around it

incase i put the heater back in down the track.she gets pretty cold down here lolAttached File  ljzedded 318.jpg   96.74K   6 downloadsAttached File  ljzedded 320.jpg   46.54K   10 downloads  some holes ready to weld up.there's heaps of them to do


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 31 August 2014 - 05:19 PM.


#106 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 September 2014 - 03:58 PM

bloody hell thats dear.just had a sparky up here about putting socket and switch on meter box,which he will install nxt tues.

500 bucks for 40mtrs of 30amp lead + socket.and 200 to install the socket.will be able to run a good welder but sheesh i

didnt see that coming

 

actually the lead must be bigger than 30 cause i said i want it capable of running 30amp welder.i think he said

it drops something like 2volts in 50 mtrs


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 24 September 2014 - 04:11 PM.


#107 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 04:53 PM

hi guys.sparky just left and now i can weld  :D  just a couple pics what he has done.put in a couple circuit breakers.a socket for lead which

i can run through the house at a later date as it was going to cost a fair bit more to do everything straight away .dig trench to shed .

board,fittings and wiring the shed for lights etc.

            

   so now the fun begins.havnt used a welder in a couple decades and only a novice at best.now i need to buy some 0.23 wire, helmet

clamps.and a couple thingy's.just got to pick it up from ole mans. its a cig 200 running argon.

  we have kennedy's welding supplies down here and cig.would they have spot welder attachments that you put on end.like

eastwoods have got

 

 


Attached File  ljzedded 352.jpg   577.44K   5 downloads      

Attached File  ljzedded 353.jpg   177.57K   5 downloads    cheers



#108 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 06:27 PM

Hi guys.went on a little trip this morning and headed to northern tasmania to pick up an scuttle panel with my brother peter.it was good to get away for the day even though it was along drive 600 k round trip it was quite enjoyful and couldnt of asked for a better day.once we were there the first thing we spotted was an slr 6 cyl which was pretty much buggered.cancer was right through it pete grabbed the nose cone and rear bumper and i found an lj boot which i grabbed for a spare for $50.also seen a nice worked lj 4dr in lone oranger.and lol and behold there was a march 73 cyan blue xu1.which we wernt alowed to see but 5 mins before we left the young fella went inside and came out with his ole man and opened the dr and there she was .in the build butwhat a beautiful site it was absolutely spotless .hasnt seen the light of day since 89.i think it would be up there with one of the best examples left.didnt take all the covers off.didnt want to push my luck as was pretty lucky to see it as not many have in quarter of a centuryAttached File  torrie pics 024.jpg   95.92K   3 downloads

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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 05 October 2014 - 06:33 PM.


#109 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 04:06 PM

Hi guys.got the scuttle panel off today in one piece.took a little while but got there.i now know what you mean mike catts about you didnt want

to sell me the whole scuttle panel.as they are hard to come by and would seem a waste to cut a good one up.i dont want to cut this one

up lol.

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Edited by madtoranajzedded, 07 October 2014 - 04:07 PM.


#110 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 18 November 2014 - 05:07 PM

finally my spot weld drill bit rocks up and the wrong size..pffft.anyhow perservered and got the scuttle panel off without any dramas

just needs a tidy up ready to weld in,still got to do one corner. was very important the i got this lined up perfect with the bonnet

  very pleased with the outcome :)Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 005.jpg   187.32K   2 downloadsAttached File  maz's fabricatoin 008.jpg   191.9K   1 downloads

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#111 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 18 November 2014 - 05:18 PM

couple moreAttached File  maz's fabricatoin 003.jpg   181.95K   5 downloadsAttached File  maz's fabricatoin 001.jpg   178.62K   5 downloadsAttached File  maz's fabricatoin 010.jpg   181.88K   4 downloads    cheers



#112 stevemc32

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Posted 18 November 2014 - 10:08 PM

Nice work Maz!

 

Good to see some solid progress.



#113 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 19 November 2014 - 06:32 PM

thanks steve.been looking at it for too long mate and thought i better do something.just going around it at things i can do and when i make

the trip to my fathers to pick up welder i will be able to get straight into it.i have some por 15 to do underneath the scuttle.plenum i think its called.

i dont know how the heck im going to get it cleaned in there.a sand blaster would be handy..

 

will have ago at doing  sills under rear dr.. my brother or cuz has used a jack there and pushed it all up ...both sides lol

 

little corner i done earlier.Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 011.jpg   185.02K   3 downloads

 



#114 Potta

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Posted 20 November 2014 - 05:59 PM

I wondered why you didn't use the whole scuttle now I see what you're doing, very nice.

 

Looks like a great fit.



#115 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 20 November 2014 - 10:39 PM

thanks craig    i think ive fitted it too well lol.i have to have a gap i think between panels for weld to penetrate.

 

at first was going to buy the window channel off ebay but after my brother bought one it was rather hard to do.for me anyway

 

and found it much easier just take it all out.i just put the replacement one over the top of the old one and lined it up with the grille vents

 

worked really well.

 

i have a sill here from waddingtons but has lines going through it.hopefully heath or mark will give me another one so i can continue

 

pic of what happens when you dont put the jack under a car properly.same on other side and front guards too lol   Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 013.jpg   172.12K   4 downloads   cheers

 

 

 

 



#116 N/A-PWR

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 03:51 AM

Mate that's not good Maz,

 

if you didn't need another thing to fix dammit.

 

What is the distance between the 4 link tubular frame on the inner side of the wheel,

 

to the outer guard edge?

 

I measured my standard 4 door from chassis rail to guards edge being 400mm ( 15.75").

 

Was just curious to see if your frame should be further towards the centre of the Torana to allow wider wheels.



#117 N/A-PWR

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 03:53 AM

post-45764-0-99288500-1393491111.jpg

http://www.gmh-toran...e-3#entry812954

 

in this picture Maz, the 4 link adjustment position seems offset to the 4 door rails hey:-

 

post-45764-0-69348200-1416486820.jpg

http://www.gmh-toran...e-5#entry870377


Edited by NA-PWR, 04 January 2016 - 04:07 AM.


#118 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 04:14 PM

She has been one gigantic stuffup from the get go Dave.all sorts of areas that engineer didnt take into consideration

if i was to mention all, the list would extensive.

 

heres a few

 

(1) clip was positioned 2 inches rearward to where it was suppose to be

(2) because of that 4 link arms were too short to reach clip to housing,along with track locator bar

(3) clip was made too wide too allow minium clearance between tire to inner rail

(4) if height is raised tailshaft will hit tailshaft loop lower bar

(5) top coil over tube is in wrong position as top of coil over lean rearward 10 deg.

 

along with the dodgy work.bird dropping welds.tubs in crooked.gaps filled with offcuts and sikaflexed so i couldnt

see and damage to panels was enough to give me depression.this is why i bought the 2 dr to ellieviate some

buildup in the brain.

 

 

You are spot on Dave that the rails should have been shorter ,14'' is the measurement from outside of rail to

inner lip.

 

there is a measurement back through here somewhere.measured from c pillar to clip and its near exact

 Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 042.jpg   564.12K   2 downloads



#119 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 04:33 PM

how the tire sits in wheel well

 

Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 041.jpg   637.29K   1 downloads



#120 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 04:37 PM

reason for tire not being wider is it was going to be regd and a 10 is all i could go.the tape is where more sheet

steel will be removed to allowa little bit more room

Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 043.jpg   666.82K   2 downloads

 



#121 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 04:46 PM

Crazy Low  :)

Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 036.jpg   797.42K   4 downloads



#122 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 05:00 PM

going lower frees up room either side of guard arch.aswell as tail shaft loop melodramas.but mydilemma is whether to stretch guard

either side to allow a 28.this is where im stuck i dont wont to go 2+ inches rearward as then i will be on the 3rd set of 4 link arms.

track locator + top coilover bar will have to protrude into boot to keep the car low..i like the look of the roundness of guard arch and

stretching either side i wont have to get another set of arms .

 

moving the door arch forward an inch might be a bit hard for engineer if he can do it.

Attached File  maz's fabricatoin 038.jpg   773.35K   3 downloads



#123 N/A-PWR

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 05:09 PM

OK Maz,

 

thank-you for the pictures and your pain,

 

great to know the '69 2 door S' is is the stress reliever.

 

 

Now if you can do it while she is apart,

 

get your Engineer to approve the new idea of cutting the clip bar that supports the coil over's out

 

(as this needs to move anyway to preposition the shocky angle),

 

and get the clip adjustment area brought closer together, which may effect the shocky position too,

 

then re-weld the separation bar back in at the new shorter distance, and put the new shocky mounts in,

 

then you will have heaps of clearance for Rego, and also allow for wider rims as needed in the Future.  :spoton:

 

 



#124 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 05:26 PM

yeah i was thinking that but i will have to cut off the rear 4 link brackets for link arms and remake brakets for the brake calipers

then slide brackets onto the housing it will all have to be jigged bud.which is money money money.

 

there will be no rego bud.rta's have looked here and went off at kooistra who done it.+ now laws have tighten up even more that you cant even do full tub :o

 

i will show ya a pic of what i mean


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 04 January 2016 - 05:30 PM.


#125 N/A-PWR

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 05:29 PM

Far out,

 

it was just so the whole assembly is a few inches closer and parallel together.

 

I don't know how much all this would cost, but in work, it is just cutting, moving and re-welding 10 sections.

 

 

Edit:-

 

I suppose then, just get her Rego, and worry about the finer stuff later.  :furious:

 

Oh and don't do any of this to the 2 door.


Edited by NA-PWR, 04 January 2016 - 05:33 PM.





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