Lone Ranger LC 2door
#151
Posted 21 March 2015 - 08:20 AM
Great spot Dave, you tell us things we don't want to hear but I'm so glad you do. Thanks
Marty
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#152
Posted 21 March 2015 - 08:56 AM
Thanks for the detailed response dave, appreciate it. Do you have a pic of a pre march 70 upper bump stop that is mounted to a bracket assy on the chassis rail? Is this somthing i could add?
Oh well 1 step forward, 2 steps back, shit happens.
Sorry mate, pics of the 1969 rail mounted bump stop bracket are hard to find.
LONA CK (John Gong) is most likely to have a pic but why would you want to cause yourself future grief. You will have all the car show experts telling you "mate your LC is a 69 model because of the front suspension and 69 models don't have a compliance plate so therefore those ID tags don't belong on that body shell yada, yada, uada........"
BTW you will need to find a crossmember from an LC built between March - December 1970.
The post 1970 crossmembers have a shorter brake pipe retaining bracket on the drivers side.
Edited by S pack, 21 March 2015 - 09:03 AM.
#153 _mikecatts_
Posted 21 March 2015 - 01:28 PM
Bad news andrew.. I can get my hands on some 69 inner upper guard brackets/stops.. I havnt got a spare early front end.. I only have an LJ one.. Ure welcome to if needed..
#154
Posted 21 March 2015 - 01:40 PM
Bad news andrew.. I can get my hands on some 69 inner upper guard brackets/stops.. I havnt got a spare early front end.. I only have an LJ one.. Ure welcome to if needed..
Cheers mike, I'm not too fussed about my car being period corect (it's only an S and has no tags anyway) I am however concerned about making it safe. When you get a chance can you show myself and everyone else what the 69 upper gaurd bracket / bump stop looks like. I would prefer this option first given the amount of time I spent restoring my front end. Thanks
#155 _mikecatts_
Posted 21 March 2015 - 07:29 PM
here you go..
The ones I can get for you have better rubbers.. this pic is of my Sebring orange 4/70 LC GTR.
Are you using a brake proportioning valve/splitter? I would if your not to fussed about being authentic, But if you want to keep close your car shouldnt have one.. you are after the "double" holder as LJ had the single holder..
Andrew, If you go the way of the upper bump stops.. They have to be welded on.. It will do some damage to your paint... Have a thought....
It will be easier to weld on the bump brackets to your front end, change the bottom arms or what ever needs doing to get right.. Might even be drilling a hole.. I dont know as I havnt got that far yet,, and re do the KBS... I have some here you can take and use. plus that little curled one you need.
Attached Files
Edited by mikecatts, 21 March 2015 - 07:34 PM.
#156
Posted 21 March 2015 - 08:04 PM
#157
Posted 21 March 2015 - 08:21 PM
#158 _Agent 34_
Posted 22 March 2015 - 06:02 AM
Andrew,
I was in the middle of doing the front brake 4 spot conversion on the race car it had ONE top control arm with the box on top which had us all F@#$@#K and we through that it was off a later model UC or LX., the other side was a standard one as per LJ.
we could not work out how or why it was there or for what purpose.
I now know that it'a 69/70 model LC upper control arm. and that i can stay we through that there was some sort of race car technical set up stuff.
#159
Posted 22 March 2015 - 03:17 PM
Andrew,
I was in the middle of doing the front brake 4 spot conversion on the race car it had ONE top control arm with the box on top which had us all F@#$@#K and we through that it was off a later model UC or LX., the other side was a standard one as per LJ.
we could not work out how or why it was there or for what purpose.
I now know that it'a 69/70 model LC upper control arm. and that i can stay we through that there was some sort of race car technical set up stuff.
Safe to say we all learnt something from this saga, thanks for everyone's input.
#160
Posted 28 March 2015 - 07:49 PM
Picked up the new running gear for the LC today, its a XQL prefix 202 with an Aussie 4 speed, pretty much bog stock and was removed from a VB commodore, however more than likely started life in an LX torana. Removed the head when I got it home and was happy to find a virgin bore, the extractors also got thrown in with the deal. Engine and box will probably need a little freshen up but I think its a good starting point...cheers
Attached Files
#161
Posted 28 March 2015 - 08:30 PM
#162
Posted 28 March 2015 - 08:39 PM
Great score Andrew,
an extractor gasket, and you are set.
#163 _duggan208_
Posted 29 March 2015 - 12:23 AM
What are you going to do on the 202? lucky to get a virgin, may as well go and buy a lottery ticket with that kind of luck.
regards
#164
Posted 29 March 2015 - 09:33 AM
What are you going to do on the 202? lucky to get a virgin, may as well go and buy a lottery ticket with that kind of luck.
regards
At this stage I don't plan on doing a great deal to the motor, just want to get it in and running so I can pass inspection... I need to change the sump over to to suit lc and will put new valves in to run unleaded.
Yes very happy to get a virgin, we actually got two 202s of the same bloke, went halves with darway. He scored a virgin with a yella terra head, $150 each, happy days.
#165 _duggan208_
Posted 30 March 2015 - 12:27 AM
Time for a lottery ticket.
regards
#166
Posted 23 April 2015 - 03:56 PM
So I've opted to run the slightly larger 3 core HQ radiator to keep things nice and cool...picked up a barely used ADRAD example and went to work cutting down the brackets to fit between the rails, a couple new mounting holes and very happy with the fit. Also fitted up a set of twin craig davies thermo fans, hopefully clearance between the engine and thermo's wont cause me too much grief. cheers
Attached Files
#167
Posted 23 April 2015 - 04:09 PM
Nice fit. Can't be too much room to spare between the rails and radiator?
Edited by S pack, 23 April 2015 - 04:09 PM.
#168
Posted 23 April 2015 - 04:22 PM
#169 _duggan208_
Posted 24 April 2015 - 12:04 AM
Yeah, thats going to a RCH from the engine, especially if you have a big steel balancer.
Regards
#170
Posted 05 October 2015 - 02:33 PM
Well haven't the last 6 months just flown by...and I have achieved sweet F#!K ALL. Time to pull my finger out, I originally planned to do this car in 3 years....and I've just reached the 2 year mark.
Rolled the car out the garage today, gave the car a quick clean and it has already helped get some motivation back. All I have done recently is fit up the recon booster and new master cylinder. I also restored a couple LC under dash's I had lying around and have started work on a centre console.
I've just placed and order with C&G upholstery, getting the roof lining, kick panels, handbrake and shifter boots. Will probably go to rare spares next week and buy the rubber kit so I can get all the glass back in hopefully in the not so distance future.
Cheers
Attached Files
#171
Posted 05 October 2015 - 04:57 PM
She's looking nice Andrew.
I think you may be missing the plastic ring that retains the ignition switch in both of these lower instrument panels.
#172
Posted 05 October 2015 - 05:15 PM
#173
Posted 05 October 2015 - 07:15 PM
You definitely have an eye for detail dave....correct you are, they tend to break easily, hopefully some super glue will fix the problem. Cheers
Plastic welding will most likely be better and stronger.
#174
Posted 08 October 2015 - 03:10 PM
Do you need lettering Davis? I've just made the LC decals if interested.
Looking Great!
Marty
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#175
Posted 08 October 2015 - 03:29 PM
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