For weber carbs recommend keeping local worth Danny at weber performance. . Top Bloke, knows his stuff(recently started running with group nc) and Aussie. .

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#79 _Lazarus_

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 09:30 PM

Temporary thread hijack here. Please return to your seats and fasten your seatbelts.

Which one of those downdraught 2bbl Webers would be best for a mild 12 port 202 with factory manifold please ?

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#80 _J.A.W._

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 09:35 PM

As a straight V-jet replacement? (& yeah they are real basterds)

One off a late XD Foulcan - dirt cheap at the picka-part tip..

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#81 _Lazarus_

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 10:04 PM

Yes I know that the Ford ones are commonly used but I was looking at those nice shiny new ones in the link you posted. The prices seem very reasonable.

There is a guy online who supplies them rebuilt and ready to go for Holden 6's but he wants like $500 for them.

Are they a simple carb to rebuild ? I've done a couple of Holleys and played with single throat Strombergs before.

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#82 _J.A.W._

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 08:30 AM

Yeah, it makes sense.. if you get a fresh one you - wont need to scrape the mud-wasp spiderbait out of its orifices..

Might want to check out the adapter dramas though, anyone here currently running one?

Is Lynx still selling the adaption kits?

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#83 _J.A.W._

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 03:35 PM

Well Laz, these guys do still list a bunch of stuff -inc' some that may be applicable to your needs..

http://www.lynxcorp.com.au

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#84 _Lazarus_

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 04:54 PM

Apologies again, I should have started a new thread or done a Search for an old one on the subject.

Final note, remembered I had this in my Watch List and had a feeling it included the right carb number.

http://www.ebay.com....49#ht_235wt_942

Unfortunately the 34 ADM is not listed in the catalogue above.

More homework needed.

Carry on...

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#85 _J.A.W._

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 06:24 PM

Single 2-barrel carbs are really a cheap 'n' nasty kind of thing to have on an inline 6 anyhow, Laz..

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#86 _J.A.W._

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 11:41 AM

CFM calculator.. http://www.carburetion.com/Calc.asp

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#87 _rb3torana_

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:27 PM

Oh well this is what Ive ended up with lol. Hopefully it works lol, if nothing else it looks sorta tuff . Cheers

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#88 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:35 PM

JEBUS.

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#89 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

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Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 26 August 2014 - 09:40 PM

CHRIST

Now that is a Tablet

and now to work out Air speeds

also a great Job done there

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#90 _rb3torana_

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 07:19 AM

Yeah already worked out the airspeed, it will have........none until 5000rpm lol. Nah if it really plays up at low speeds I'll put a divider in the centre of the plenum to separate the front and rear cylinders. I think distribution should be ok. Here are the quick specs on the motor, stockish black motor head, 10.5:1 compression, 266@50 104lsa camtech, shitty commodore extractors which I will make a better set later and a 650hp ultra aluminium on a sheet metal manifold. Cheers

Edited by rb3torana, 27 August 2014 - 07:22 AM.

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#91 greens nice

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Name:Kevin
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Car:EH Holden
Joined: 01-November 08

Posted 27 August 2014 - 08:32 AM

Damn you don't fk around!
Have you still got the aus speed manifold from your boosted setup to compare with? I never had any success with it but would be nice to compare
So you'll be at 6 banger nats in 3 weeks right!?

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#92 _rb3torana_

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 10:52 AM

Nah I sold the aussiespeed manifold off. I tried to make the runners as close to the same length as possible. Depending on how it runs I may come out to warwick. Its still got 3.25 gears in it so not realy 1/8 mile gearing lol. Cheers

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#93 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 01:39 PM

Not sure how you're gonna stop it from banging on the body rails...

If it's a 12 port I'd be sticking some dividers in and cutting out the dead areas as per the finely crafted pic below. I'd also get a die grinder with a sharp edged carbide and stripe the entire floor at right angles to the flow direction with closely spaced shallow grooves. It'll probably work OK, but you'll need more than a stock black head to make use of it. At least spend an hour or two on the short turns; that alone will pick up the flow substantially.

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#94 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 06:08 PM

WHat are your thoughts on the internal radius of the corners, so floor to wall and wall to roof OJ?

I have heard there pretty important, and that you dont really want a square edge....Kinda makes sence as the edge is going to be a dead area the whole way around?

Solid engine mount on the passengers side will stop it banging

Cheers.

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#95 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 07:11 PM

I was thinking you could sit an old double-plugger between the side-rail and the manifold, so that the manifold was the engine mount..

I agree with what you said about the corner fillets, but if it's just a quick 'n dirty prototype then I guess it isn't the end of the world. I actually think something like this could be made to work, though I'd much prefer a pair of two-barrels instead of the single four.

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#96 _rb3torana_

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 09:19 PM

Oh well too late to make any changes now its fully welded. Cmon OJ its not that quick and dirty lol. Nah i understand why you would think that though. I was going to taper around the carb like you mentioned but what stopped me was the area that it would have to flow through between the outer wall and the divider is would be quite abit less than the 3 runners area.

To be honest though if it runs and drives ok with a bit of power and with good distribution I'll be happy. If not I might bite the bullet and buy something lol. Cheers

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#97 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

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Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 27 August 2014 - 09:30 PM

Practice makes Perfect.

Will be great to hear how she performs in any case.

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#98 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 09:57 PM

Oh well too late to make any changes now its fully welded. Cmon OJ its not that quick and dirty lol. Nah i understand why you would think that though. I was going to taper around the carb like you mentioned but what stopped me was the area that it would have to flow through between the outer wall and the divider is would be quite abit less than the 3 runners area.

To be honest though if it runs and drives ok with a bit of power and with good distribution I'll be happy. If not I might bite the bullet and buy something lol. Cheers

The quick 'n dirty comment wasn't meant to be negative, just that fabricated steel is a good, quick way of testing ideas. I've done the same, except mine were hideous looking. If you look at the cyl groups 123 and 456 you'll see that each has only one cylinder at full flow at a time. So you don't really need much more than the area of one runner between each group of three and the plenum. Hopefully it'll work so well that it'll spur you on to making an even better one...

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#99 _rb3torana_

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 07:24 AM

Yeah no worries, to be honest I reckon its going to be quite doggy because of the plenum volume but I guess well have to wait and see. Hopefully next week I'll know. Cheers

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#100 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 09:02 AM

Yeah no worries, to be honest I reckon its going to be quite doggy because of the plenum volume but I guess well have to wait and see. Hopefully next week I'll know. Cheers

You're gonna need BIG jets and lots of pump shot because of the plenum volume and the grossly oversized carb.