1102 replies to this topic

[Shiney005]

It is going great Mat. Love your work.

[purrlx]

Nice work well done, welding to go now

[Bigfella237]

was thinking of doing that previously to the whole cars innards, even drilling holes to pour everywhere!

 

That's a good idea if using a rust "preventative" like fish-oil (or a modern equivalent), but as you said, some rust "converters" have acid that needs to be neutralized.

 

if you expose bare metal and are are outside getting moisture, prime/protect surface to protect from rust! can always EASILY sand off later if need to work/weld

 

There is such a thing as weld-through etch primer too, but I haven't bought any for decades so not sure if you can even still get it (or how many arms and legs they'd want for it)?

 

It can be used when welding two sections together (like the bonnet hinge reinforcement plates to inner guards) so you can prime each before assembly. You'll still burn a bit back off near the welds but it's better than having two bare metal panels stuck together (thanks Holden).

 

yippee!! two rears done ~ did't have physical template to replicate, just estimated. am quite happy (read: lucky)  

 

I don't think luck had much to do with it, like Ryan from WCC keeps going on about... 6 P's (Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance)!

 

You do nice work Mat, I reckon Ruts would be happy to put his name to that!

[SmacT]

Good advice on the rust converting/prevention. I just did this job myself and converted using an expensive, but good converter from a panel supply shop. I have also used Ranex and it works well, as long as you neutralise the acid before continuing. Just follow the instructions.

 

I bought weld-thru primer (UPol brand, green can - copper rich so the welder can arc) from the same panel supply shop (Supercheap, etc won't have it in my experience) at $23 a can - but it's bloody good stuff. 

 

I wire wheeled the surface rust off, converted, neutralised, then hit with weld-thru primer. I then primed again form inside the wheel arch/boot and will seam seal the weld sections from inside when the Epotech 408 has been laid down. Not saying that's all the right way, just how I did it.

 

Also, I have seen guys push the (stripped) body shell onto its side on a bed of tyres, but that can be dangerous if not propped up right. I just welded upside down, and covered myself properly before lighting the torch, so to speak. At least being outside, the fumes can blow away easier. :-)

 

Top job, especially as you're new to it and outside! 

[Shiney005]

The "Old School" ones on the same page are only $5 dearer and they look just like the standard ones.