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Project SLR5000 replica / LX Torana Sedan 77

Started by _livo74_ , Dec 16 2014 07:48 PM

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1102 replies to this topic

#101 ollie

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Posted 06 February 2015 - 10:24 PM

This thread has some serious progress... When I did my flares I used POR 15 and painted the weld seam from inside the boot. (it's black and a rust converter marine grade) worked well.
Usually the flares are fitted and then the cut is made so you can cut away as much as possible. Ie. I could have cut more off the rear and it would've saved a little scraping. But to reweld again is a pain... Worth a thought.
Biggest pain for me when welding it was the deadner contaminating the weld... Good luck!

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#102 _livo74_

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Posted 06 February 2015 - 11:10 PM

cheers for the advice om what you did.. but, more importantly..

i keep looking at my cut, and am presently pondering over and over..

why not cut more?! (before i weld, as you say)

it so fkn easy and reckon would take me quite literally ten minutes a hub.

..and then ??never rub.

so, importantly, is there a limit on how much can cut??

it's a bit deceptive when looking at above pic, but it's only a half thumb more to the "arch's" top/beginning..

..but..

more and more am reckoning still worth it for even more "anti-rub",

and have been considering cutting them back to there.

is there a limit?

read in one place it was 75mm max.

i already cut 70 to be safe.

------------------

deadener contaminating the weld was ANOTHER thing had no knowledge of.

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#103 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 06 February 2015 - 11:22 PM

Cut as close to the rear flares as possible. More is more!!

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#104 _victor_

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Posted 06 February 2015 - 11:24 PM

Hey Mat

Have you got your flares yet ?

I think until you do , don't cut any more.

Then you can match the cut with the flare & have a nice neat finish.

That way you get the max cut.

As the flare kits aren't all the same.

Victor

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#105 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 08:50 AM

daz, victor

i do have the flares, and had held up in place whilst marking cut line.

seemed like a friggin lot at the time!!, and enough to hide under flare so not very visible (unless viewed low down.)

but it's not the max.

and am risking missing an opportunity i imagine.

haven't ever been in a lowish tory running 8 or10's at back.

sound of rubbing against tyre probably not a great sound (and scary? and eventually expensive?)

will position flares again and be cutting max.

but first,

will go to lang lang show'n'shine tomorrow, and expect get to have a look at tory or two, to gauge theirs.

-------------------------

ollie mentioned last night, if had been light would of gone out and taken photo of right side flare..

would of seen has a thumb nail line already drawn/scratched in the primer showing an arc running right up to the arch,

where have been pondering cutting to.

read my mind he did.

Edited by livo74, 07 February 2015 - 08:55 AM.

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#106 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 08:54 AM

ps daz,

might not be in this position if had taken you up on your very polite offer of riding in your car.. (to judge hq brakes)

cuz, gave impression i live that way.

i do.. if consider lang lang up that way! ha!

(used to live in monbulk, and my daughter still goes to school at monbulk college, so am going thru to drop her off and pick her up ..every fkn day!!

every fkn day!!

....)

Edited by livo74, 07 February 2015 - 08:55 AM.

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#107 SS hatch

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 09:40 AM

stick a riser where your bump stop pushes in on top of the diff tube. Stops the diff traveling up further. Mines a piece of sch 10 pipe roughly 40-50mm from memory. Needs to be welded on at correct angle. This stopped my slight polishing issue with passengers in the back.

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#108 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 10:04 AM

cheers ss,

take it it affects travelling distance, but guess that's the idea!

anyone else done this?

"slight polishing issues" only slight? or sometimes hefty?

what width wheels are you running, and flared?

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#109 hawk

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 10:42 AM

Hey im from monbulk and my brother goes to school there haha. You might remember the red uc getting around town, that was me.

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#110 SS hatch

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 10:43 AM

265x15 on 10 inch rims flared.Now 275x17 on 10s only rubbed as a polish when passengers in back never cut the tires or harmed them only when brand new outside tip of tread nothing to write home about. Just set a new riser by removing old and jacking wheel up to where it was just getting close to inner guard then measured the gap at bump stop. Then made a calculated guess to how much rubber bump stop would compress .Made tube to suit.

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#111 SS hatch

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 10:45 AM

But that with standard track and offset close to standard these all come into play with posi of tire to guard.

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#112 ollie

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 11:27 AM

heres a thread back in 2007 when i lined up my rear flares, they can be mounted a different heights on different cars.. I prefer them not mounted too high.....

I recommend you put the kit on before cutting any more..

http://www.gmh-toran...s-sanity-check/

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#113 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 01:30 PM

Hey im from monbulk and my brother goes to school there haha. You might remember the red uc getting around town, that was me.

you underestimate the power of marijuana ha

sorry, been 6 years since lived there and can't recall.

daughters in yr12 so might know each other. good fkn school. daughter lucky to of found it.

265x15 on 10 inch rims flared.Now 275x17 on 10s only rubbed as a polish when passengers in back never cut the tires or harmed them only when brand new outside tip of tread nothing to write home about. Just set a new riser by removing old and jacking wheel up to where it was just getting close to inner guard then measured the gap at bump stop. Then made a calculated guess to how much rubber bump stop would compress .Made tube to suit.

think with riser you have solved many of the rubbing problems associated with wides. and you with 15's an all!

Edited by livo74, 07 February 2015 - 01:29 PM.

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#114 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 01:33 PM

heres a thread back in 2007 when i lined up my rear flares, they can be mounted a different heights on different cars.. I prefer them not mounted too high.....

I recommend you put the kit on before cutting any more..

http://www.gmh-toran...s-sanity-check/

remounting door/chucking on kit now. (will just be putting in smll holes, as serious finetuning needed when properly fitting.. as you know.

as said, previously lined up kit (without mounting) and made marks, but haven't/didn't take to the max to avoid any problems now/in future with wheel changes.

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#115 hawk

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 01:37 PM

Fair enough been 2 years since i lived there. My brotgers are year 11 and year 9 so maybe haha. I was on mcallister rd

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#116 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 03:55 PM

Fair enough been 2 years since i lived there. My brotgers are year 11 and year 9 so maybe haha. I was on mcallister rd

was an invermay man myself.

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#117 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 04:16 PM

what i would like to do.

.

(photo shopped to show effect of right door/guard cut-away)

----------------

but,

so as to be wussy, and not a trail blazer.. that cuts too much and risks having to get engineered?..

am probably just doing this.. (with adjustments of fglass to bring in a 3/4 of a cm)

Edited by livo74, 07 February 2015 - 04:28 PM.

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#118 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 04:39 PM

oh yer, and spot the fkn fault with my guard mould.

(and i've got three of them!!.., all with the same fault.

at least i can cut out the bad one, and cut out a good one from a spare, and fibre in/replace.

got three.. cus the bloke i bought it off was given wrong one, and resent wrong one another two times! classy)

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#119 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 07:19 PM

each to their own,

was going to piss me off seeing that guard sticking out,

..so off with it's head!

cutting back this far

requires leaving the under layer to fold over

door cut too

tomorrow,

will cut more off and by then have room for only one and a half adults in the back seat.

just kidding.

am finished this side till clean up and weld.

-----------------------

forgot to screw in rear of flare so is hanging off/away car in pic

Edited by livo74, 07 February 2015 - 07:24 PM.

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#120 slar

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 08:11 PM

This is how I done mine

Nice and tidy and has enough clearance for me

Cheers

Al

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#121 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 08:19 PM

same here, nice and tidy and has enough clearance for my 8's

can i have a pic showing your flares on for reference?

cheers in advance al

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#122 slar

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 09:20 PM

Here you go

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#123 _livo74_

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 09:44 PM

hmm, another one with no bolt closest to the door on the little flare.

was wondering if mine was a flaw originally, or an option to put in recessed bolt (if want) and cover it over..?

seems some have em and some don't. want it secured there thinking though.

cheers al

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#124 Bigfella237

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 09:55 PM

I don't think they're supposed to have a fourth bolt in the door section are they? That wouldn't look quite right with two bolts so close together.

If you were worried about pulling the flare in tighter then you might be better off fibreglassing something to the back of the flare and securing it from the inside?