476 replies to this topic

[Liz Clare]

Sorry Liz, yes "Air Dam" is just the old skool name for a front spoiler.

Thanks for that, Andrew, I kinda thought maybe that was it but after I asked my stupid question.

 

I guess they call it a dam because it sort of collects the air and directs it...like a water dam perhaps? Sounds good right

 

Funny about the parts/service manual, makes it difficult to restore your car to factory original, that's for sure.

 

I think Brad is onto something with the black car plus black is also my favourite colour

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Shiney005]

Back to the chrome smile for a minute, after trawling through my files, my best guess is it was not fitted to LX SL/R, A9X, LX SS, LH G.Pack, LH Plus Four, or any other four cylinder LH. It was on all S and SL in LH and LX, it was on all L34s and it was on some LH SL/Rs, including 3.3, 4.2, and 5000.

 

As far as the nosecone blackouts go without the front spoiler, I believe it was still painted black, but only to the chrome strip, or to where the chrome strip would be if not fitted with one. In the case of SL/R 5000s, the whole bottom section was painted black.

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Edited by Shiney005, 15 December 2017 - 01:07 AM.

[CI 0308]

Back to the chrome smile for a minute, after trawling through my files, my best guess is it was not fitted to LX SL/R, A9X, LX SS, LH G.Pack, LH Plus Four, or any other four cylinder LH. It was on all S and SL in LH and LX, it was on all L34s and it was on some LH SL/Rs, including 3.3, 4.2, and 5000.

As far as the nosecone blackouts go without the front spoiler, I believe it was still painted black, but only to the chrome strip, or to where the chrome strip would be if not fitted with one. In the case of SL/R 5000s, the whole bottom section was painted black.
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Here is a picture of my late 77 hatch with the original factory paint (I know the spoiler is SLR type) had the black but no chrome trim.

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[Shiney005]

Happy to stand corrected, and I was going to do it myself this morning. I was actually talking to a mate last night who worked for Holden in the 70s and 80s and he had the same view. After looking back at my pics, it seems the Torana S that I was looking at might be an SL. 

I do however have a few pictures of (claimed) one owner, unrestored SL/Rs that don't have it. It just goes to show how many of these had a hit in the front over the years and had the nosecone repaired or replaced.

 

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I just noticed the top "survivor" has no badges or stickers.

Edited by Shiney005, 16 December 2017 - 10:05 AM.

[Liz Clare]

Happy to stand corrected, and I was going to do it myself this morning. I was actually talking to a mate last night who worked for Holden in the 70s and 80s and he had the same view. After looking back at my pics, it seems the Torana S that I was looking at might be an SL. 

I do however have a few pictures of (claimed) one owner, unrestored SL/Rs that don't have it. It just goes to show how many of these had a hit in the front over the years and had the nosecone repaired or replaced.

 

1 owner.jpg

 

22309069_10155072319597749_7672557910362344527_n.jpg

 

post-664-0-50687400-1344257386.jpg

 

I just noticed the top "survivor" has no badges or stickers.

I remember when that car in the top pic was for sale and I think the write-up said that there'd been a minor front end repair. Explains the absence of stickers and letters perhaps.

 

Lots of minor bingles over a 40+ year history is normal I guess just makes it a bit hard to know what is exactly correct.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[hanra]

Yeah LH SL & SL/R got the “SLR Smile”

VC and VD models.

Edited by hanra, 16 December 2017 - 11:51 AM.

[CI 0308]

Yes my mates early unrestored 74 LH 5000 has it.

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[Liz Clare]

It's getting close now. Looking to get the correct spark plug leads.

 

I've looked at Brad's build thread as a reference for my car seeing as Brad's car is spot on. I noticed he used "Lectric Limited" leads direct from the USA. Are these correct for my hatch as well?

 

There are some black leads on eBay but is there a reason not to buy those? rubbish quality perhaps?

 

Why didn't I sort this out sooner, seem to be rushing things at the last minute..oh well. Any help here is much appreciated

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Redslur]

The burgundy and white 5000's in Shiney's post above have both definitely been repainted.  The SLR stripes are very wrong.

[Ando]

Hi Liz,

 

I've also purchased the Lectric Limited leads. I think it's as close as one can get at the moment unless you have them custom made. 

 

Here's a vintage photo of a Holden 308 for reference.

 

To me it looks like an early pre-pollution LH Torana 308 with the remote exhaust preheat choke & water heated manifold.

Also note the red distributor cap, red over-spray etc. 

 

Cheers Ando

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Edited by Ando, 17 December 2017 - 08:36 PM.

[Liz Clare]

Hi Liz,

 

I've also purchased the Lectric Limited leads. I think it's as close as one can get at the moment unless you have them custom made. 

 

Here's a vintage photo of a Holden 308 for reference.

 

To me it looks like an early pre-pollution LH Torana 308 with the remote exhaust preheat choke & water heated manifold.

Also note the red distributor cap, red over-spray etc. 

 

Cheers Ando

Thank you very much, Ando.

 

I will indeed buy a set of the Lectric Limited leads but also probably get a normal set while I'm waiting for delivery. Pretty keen to get it on the road now. 

 

Thanks for pointing out the distributor cap colour, something else I never noticed before.

 

I've also seen a bit on the Forums about the factory overspray but my engine & gearbox box were painted a while ago so I missed that boat, not overly worried though.

 

Thanks again for the info and great reference photo.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

 

308 posts!

Edited by Liz Clare, 17 December 2017 - 09:06 PM.

[308 Sunbird]

Liz l got some of those Packard leads from Lectric Limited a few years ago and you wont be disappointed.

The latest date stamp they do is last quarter 1974 or you can get them undated.

[Liz Clare]

Liz l got some of those Packard leads from Lectric Limited a few years ago and you wont be disappointed.

The latest date stamp they do is last quarter 1974 or you can get them undated.

Yeah, have just been looking at them. I'm thinking about ordering the 1970 leads and trying to make the numbering into a 76. I would be assuming that the length of leads for a 308 is standard across all years. Is that right?

 

Might get a set for the XU1 at the same time.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[hanra]

My leads are un-dated. 

[Liz Clare]

My leads are un-dated.

Yes, I noticed that Brad. I was thinking I'd have a go at making a date coded set but if it didn't work then just remove my attempt. Still unsure about that. Will just put the same leads on now while I decide and wait for new ones to arrive.

Cheers,

Liz


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[Liz Clare]

Ready to organise the engine bay decals so I'm asking for some help. Here's a pic of a few that I already have.

 

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I'm unsure what the yellow "Wylie Automotive Products" decal is for so I'm hoping for some help here.

 

Also, where does the yellow LSD decal go? I thought I had seen one on the inside of driver's door but seems an odd location for a diff reference.

 

I'm planning on buying a wiring loom set, wiper motor and beware of fan decals from Torana rpa as well.

 

Am i forgetting anything? Hope not.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[308 Sunbird]

Hi Liz l don't think the brake mastercyl  filling decal came along until well after your early 76 car also i don't think they

had any emissions/tune decals as well until after the July anti pollution engines, that one reads- adjust carby solenoid which you do not have,

red Lucas decal is for heater fan, never seen the Wylie decal before and not sure about the LSD sticker- they were in the drivers side

door jam in earlier models?

Edited by 308 Sunbird, 19 December 2017 - 07:21 PM.

[Liz Clare]

Hi Liz l don't think the brake mastercyl  filling decal came along until well after your early 76 car also i don't think they

had any emissions/tune decals as well until after the July anti pollution engines, that one reads- adjust carby solenoid which you do not have,

red Lucas decal is for heater fan, never seen the Wylie decal before and not sure about the LSD sticker- they were in the drivers side

door jam in earlier models?

Thank you Stuart, I appreciate the help.

 

These last minute bits and pieces are doing my head in.

 

I bought some radiator hose clamps from Rare Spares...don't bloody fit.

 

Bought some metal clips from eBay, for the TORANA letters...don't fit either.

 

Stripes are on car but guess what...one has obvious join and a crease from manufacturer in it..not sure if it will be possible to remove it without damaging the paint..

 

Cheers, (I think?)

 

Liz

Edited by Liz Clare, 19 December 2017 - 08:41 PM.

[Shiney005]

Welllll, it was all going too smoothly anyhow Liz.

[Rockoz]

Turps to help dissolve the adhesive.

Hair dryer to soften up the sticker vinyl.

If you use the hairdryer to soften up the sticker you should be able to get an edge going to lift and pull.

You will work out what the right amount of heat is pretty quickly.

A heat gun if used poorly has a good chance of burning the paint. Hair dryer shouldnt get that hot.

Its great if the adhesive comes off with the sticker, but dont worry if it doesnt. The turps will clean it up without a problem at the end.

Sometimes it works better if you have a rag soaked in turps and hold it against the sticker for a while before trying the heat.

If you use a hair dryer and turps only, you shouldnt damage the paint at all.

Try different combinations of heat and turps and you will eventually find a way that works best for that particular sticker.

No guarantees the same process will work for the next one if you ever have to do it again.

[Liz Clare]

Turps to help dissolve the adhesive.

Hair dryer to soften up the sticker vinyl.

If you use the hairdryer to soften up the sticker you should be able to get an edge going to lift and pull.

You will work out what the right amount of heat is pretty quickly.

A heat gun if used poorly has a good chance of burning the paint. Hair dryer shouldnt get that hot.

Its great if the adhesive comes off with the sticker, but dont worry if it doesnt. The turps will clean it up without a problem at the end.

Sometimes it works better if you have a rag soaked in turps and hold it against the sticker for a while before trying the heat.

If you use a hair dryer and turps only, you shouldnt damage the paint at all.

Try different combinations of heat and turps and you will eventually find a way that works best for that particular sticker.

No guarantees the same process will work for the next one if you ever have to do it again.

Thank you so much, Rob.

 

I'll pass on your instructions to the workshop. Hope his wife doesn't mind him using her hair dryer (I don't have one).

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

Welllll, it was all going too smoothly anyhow Liz.

Yeah, I thought so too, although I wasn't game to say it out loud

 

Oh well, I think things could be a lot worse..

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Liz Clare]

G'day,

 

I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a professional who puts stripes on cars. I've been told by the resto guy that this would be the best idea IF? I can get a replacement stripe from the manufacturer.

 

Any help is much appreciated.

 

Picking the car up early in the new year, dodgy stripe and all..

 

Cheers,

 

Liz

[Bigfella237]

Google is your friend, Liz!

 

First three hits were:

 

Scott's Mobile Striping, Newcastle - 02 4942 1476 - 0417 431 784

Paul's Auto Striping, New Lambton - 0417 676 401

The Sign Shop, Maitland - 02 4934 4899

 

That last one does full vehicle wraps too...

 

 

Edited by Bigfella237, 22 December 2017 - 06:44 PM.

[Liz Clare]

Thanks Andrew,

 

Yes I should've just googled it, just thought someone might have had some experience with one particular place. I'm feeling a bit off my game today..

 

Cheers,

 

Liz