I am considering respraying my car & I would like to get myself a quality spray gun, could anyone please advise on a particular brand.
Anyone tried the gravity feed guns from Supa Cheap they are about $90.00
thanks
Garry
Spray Gun
Started by
_SLR5000_
, Dec 19 2005 06:54 PM
52 replies to this topic
#2
_JBird_
_JBird_
-
- Guests
Posted 19 December 2005 - 09:07 PM
They are "ok" for normal jobs e.g spraying your bonnet. However to do a job properly a better spray gun is needed - super cheap is the bare minimum, that is, it blows air. Primer is thicker than the colour coat, and the colour coat is slightly thicker than the clear coat, so you'll need a gun that has options for different tip sizes. More importantly a good compressor e.g 3HP and 60Litre tank, with about 15CFM will do for a spray job. I recommend you borrow one from kennards hire or something - make sure you check the amp rating just to make sure you can run it using a normal power point (if you are doing it at home).
Look to spend 200+ bucks for a decent spray gun, as long as your not gonna make a career out of spray painting "star" guns or "devil bliss" guns can be had. The gun should be able to handle 55PSI+and at least 15CFM, otherwise forget about it as the spray wont "fan" out enough to cover a decent area or will come out splotchy. Forget about suction feed, go for gravity feed guns as well. Dont forget to buy a mask to protect your lungs.
I recommend Iwata w300 or W400, they are around 400 bucks. But you really get what you pay for - and if your mates are willing to spray their car too, you can always chip in for it.
good luck,
James
Look to spend 200+ bucks for a decent spray gun, as long as your not gonna make a career out of spray painting "star" guns or "devil bliss" guns can be had. The gun should be able to handle 55PSI+and at least 15CFM, otherwise forget about it as the spray wont "fan" out enough to cover a decent area or will come out splotchy. Forget about suction feed, go for gravity feed guns as well. Dont forget to buy a mask to protect your lungs.
I recommend Iwata w300 or W400, they are around 400 bucks. But you really get what you pay for - and if your mates are willing to spray their car too, you can always chip in for it.
good luck,
James
Edited by JBird, 19 December 2005 - 09:11 PM.
#3
_SLR5000_
_SLR5000_
-
- Guests
Posted 19 December 2005 - 09:27 PM
Thanks James that is very helpful information. I have a 2.5HP belt driven compressor, do you think this will be suitable?
thanks
Garry
thanks
Garry
#4
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 19 December 2005 - 09:35 PM
Buy your gun from an auto paint store, you'll get more bang for your buck, and the right size tip for the paint your using.
#5
_JBird_
_JBird_
-
- Guests
Posted 19 December 2005 - 09:36 PM
I believe so. 3HP is sufficient, however 2.5hp is ok. There will be times it needs to catch up especially if your putting it on 55PSI+ i believe. Your spray job will be very slow, so make sure you pace yourself and the compressor, do small parts of your car at a time and allow your compressor to catch up. I suggest panel by panel.
I am pretty sure it will do. However someone else should confirm, my info should only be used as a guide. I think LCBoi did his own spray job.
I am pretty sure it will do. However someone else should confirm, my info should only be used as a guide. I think LCBoi did his own spray job.
#6
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 19 December 2005 - 10:29 PM
Painted BMXer's car with 2.5 HP compressor, and a spray gun recommended at the auto paint shop. Works OK. I paint with about 40psi of pressure which works for me, more paint on the car than in the air. Also, don't forget to buy a decent water trap.
For what it's worth, I also found painting a whole car to be much better for improving your technique rather than just parts. Heaps more time/area to perfect your technique.
For what it's worth, I also found painting a whole car to be much better for improving your technique rather than just parts. Heaps more time/area to perfect your technique.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 19 December 2005 - 10:30 PM.
#7
_SLR5000_
_SLR5000_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 06:06 AM
Thanks guys for the advice. Yella looks like you did a great job on the BMXer's car! Is that acrlyic paint?
#8
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 07:47 AM
Yup, acrylic. I love my acrylic, it is so forgiving. You have to be a bit more precise with 2-pack. BMXer paid a guy to buff it. After my recent attempts at buffing, was prolly a good thing, but I'm getting there, just more practice. For those that haven't attempted buffing with lambswool, they are right about always keeping the buffer flat, i.e. don't dig the edges in!
#9
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 08:02 AM
With the buffer, on the upside, if you do burn through, the bonus is you can always sand it back and repair it with acrylic! Can't do that with 2 pac.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 20 December 2005 - 08:03 AM.
#10
_JBird_
_JBird_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 08:51 AM
Thats true hehe.With the buffer, on the upside, if you do burn through, the bonus is you can always sand it back and repair it with acrylic! Can't do that with 2 pac.
Except don't really need to buff all that much with 2pac, just a hand polish will do. Well as a guide around 50 PSI will do, but its all about experimentation. With spray guns you'd rather have more than less, because if 55 is too high, you can drop it down to 40 etc. What pressure depends on how hot the day is, What ratios youve mixed your paint and thinners in and the quality of the paint...experiment on the underside of a panel or spare sheet metal.
On a side note, after an acrylic paint job the paint will stay soft due to the layering method of applying - so its important you don't cut and polish straight away. As a guide it should be okay after a month for definite.
Good Luck
James
#11
ToRunYa
-
- Members
-
- 2,073 posts
No Longer A Contributing Ninja/Member.
- Name:Em
- Location:Bumf*ck Idaho
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 20 December 2005 - 08:53 AM
have used one of those supashit auto gravity guns (MAD TWIN PACK!!) to do the bro in laws datto, just had to buy some decent nozzles for it.
didnt have any troubles only a air comp. that couldnt keep up, but got there eventually. I would definalty get a good gun from the paint supply shop, just purley for the extra quality/availibility of parts as i really dont think this supatool one will last long.
didnt have any troubles only a air comp. that couldnt keep up, but got there eventually. I would definalty get a good gun from the paint supply shop, just purley for the extra quality/availibility of parts as i really dont think this supatool one will last long.
#12
_JBird_
_JBird_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 08:54 AM
That looks like a great job Yella Slur. As I said, 2.5Hp should work ok, practise and experiment. Working with acrylic helps - if you stuff up a rag of thinners will do the trick.Painted BMXer's car with 2.5 HP compressor, and a spray gun recommended at the auto paint shop. Works OK. I paint with about 40psi of pressure which works for me, more paint on the car than in the air. Also, don't forget to buy a decent water trap.
For what it's worth, I also found painting a whole car to be much better for improving your technique rather than just parts. Heaps more time/area to perfect your technique.
#13
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 11:14 AM
Thanks for those tips Jbird. I'm finding with painting there is always more you can learn. Good gun helped heaps, everything adjustable, including air pressure, on the hand piece.
Done a few bombs before that, but they were nothing to write home about, don't even think we bothered buffing them. Might get over my obsession with all things shiny one day.
Heaps of practice really is the other key to good paint above and beyond a good gun. Be prepared for a few disasters along the way.
Done a few bombs before that, but they were nothing to write home about, don't even think we bothered buffing them. Might get over my obsession with all things shiny one day.
Heaps of practice really is the other key to good paint above and beyond a good gun. Be prepared for a few disasters along the way.
#14
REDA9X
-
- Inactive
-
- 0 posts
Removed
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 20 December 2005 - 03:25 PM
Get a gravity feed gun , tust me they are much better than suction, and it's the capacity of your tank and it's output that matters, 50l and 13 CFM is good. I painted my car and I'm happy
#15
_SLR5000_
_SLR5000_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 06:49 PM
Thanks for the tips & advice you have all been very hepful, when I have a go I will let you know how things turn out. Fingers crossed 
Red with your A9X did you paint the sides of car all red then put your black strip's straight over the red paint?
Red with your A9X did you paint the sides of car all red then put your black strip's straight over the red paint?
#16
_JBird_
_JBird_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 07:09 PM
Mate it is most likely masking tape or vinyl. You tape off the areas you don't want painted. Masking paper/Masking tape combination will definitely need to be used in order to avoid overspray into the inside of your car your tyres, etc. With black on red, it can be sprayed over the the top. But you'll get a better looking job if you taped off the areas you want black (after you primed and sanded) paint everything red. Peel off the tape/vinyl carefully and finally mask and tape off the red areas and spray black over the top. Experiment.Thanks for the tips & advice you have all been very hepful, when I have a go I will let you know how things turn out. Fingers crossed
Red with your A9X did you paint the sides of car all red then put your black strip's straight over the red paint?
Good Luck
James
#17
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 08:51 PM
Hey JBird, you seem to be in the know. How do you do flush joins of different colours? I know going over top of a colour with the black you get a lip, does this other way stop that so it is smooth at the colour transition? Are there other ways to achieve the same result, i.e. sand/feather back once you've masked for black?
#18
_jimjet61_
_jimjet61_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 10:12 PM
The bigger the compressor tank/cfm the better. allows time for the air to cool a little b4 going through the water trap. More chance of it to condense and not end up on your paint job. Also stops the pressure from dropping off as you paint large areas. If you buy a gun, get one with 3 adjustments, fan, paint supply and head pressure. With that combination you should be able to do a presentable job with a fairly cheap gun. I run 60psi at the compressor regulator and then adjust it down at the gun. With the proper adjustments you will save youself lots of money in wasted paint that blasts off into the atmosphere and ends up on your floor and everything else in your shed. Never used a gravity feed gun, so can't comment. Although not a painter, have sprayed lots of things from farm machinery, boats, trucks and cars, with all types of guns and have normally been satisfied with results. You can get pretty decent results with a spray can if you just follow the instructions, and the same applies with spraying. Read them. Don't try and cover it with one coat. There are some pretty good books that you can get from your local library. Recently just painted the torrie in 2 pac but would recommend acrylic, for ease of application, and less gear needed, and it is so forgiving. Finally where do u live? If W.A. you could borrow my gun, and would help out if possible. Have some Photos of paint job at this site Jimjets Junk Have a go, and good luck Jim.
#19
_jimjet61_
_jimjet61_
-
- Guests
#20
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 10:17 PM
Just reminded me, there is a Gregory's book on Spray Painting and another on panel beating at Supercheap. Each book is $18 from memory.
#21
_Pete_
_Pete_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 December 2005 - 11:44 PM
Yella, one way to go about avoiding a built up edge is to clear the entire car (or even just the panels that you've applied another colour to) and then block the car down flat and re-clear.
Its sounds like a lot of work (which it is) but its really the only way to have a flawless black on a different colour edge. The same process is used when painting flames etc
or alternatively you could make sure your black is thin enough to just cover the existing colour and just live with the surface variation. All depends on how particular you want to be. I'm sure GTR's XU1s A9X SLR's etc all had a distinct paint edge from the factory.
For spray gun recommendations, the guns i use are a Star77 suction feed with a 2.0 mm tip for primers/putty (both acrylic & 2K) i have an old Iwata Gravity feed with a 1.8mm tip for acrylic colours and clears, a Blue-point 1.4mm(Snap-on) gravity feed which i use for 2K colours and clears.
different circumstances call for different guns but if you get a basic set-up consisting of a 2.0mm suction feed for painting your primers and a reasonable quality gravity feed gun (which i find nicer to use) for your colours and clears you'll be on your way to paint your car.
Although you can use a $600+ devilbiss Gti gun and your paint will still turn out like s*** if you haven't got it straight and well prepped.
Its sounds like a lot of work (which it is) but its really the only way to have a flawless black on a different colour edge. The same process is used when painting flames etc
or alternatively you could make sure your black is thin enough to just cover the existing colour and just live with the surface variation. All depends on how particular you want to be. I'm sure GTR's XU1s A9X SLR's etc all had a distinct paint edge from the factory.
For spray gun recommendations, the guns i use are a Star77 suction feed with a 2.0 mm tip for primers/putty (both acrylic & 2K) i have an old Iwata Gravity feed with a 1.8mm tip for acrylic colours and clears, a Blue-point 1.4mm(Snap-on) gravity feed which i use for 2K colours and clears.
different circumstances call for different guns but if you get a basic set-up consisting of a 2.0mm suction feed for painting your primers and a reasonable quality gravity feed gun (which i find nicer to use) for your colours and clears you'll be on your way to paint your car.
Although you can use a $600+ devilbiss Gti gun and your paint will still turn out like s*** if you haven't got it straight and well prepped.
#22
_JBird_
_JBird_
-
- Guests
Posted 21 December 2005 - 10:15 AM
I am not a spray painter either by any means, but my friends and I get bored in sydney. They all have pretty bomby cars and I like to practice on them when they get off road (run out of rego and can't pay for new rego - realities of being students). You will get the colour coat to stick really well onto the panels if your primer coat is perfect. Spending hours sanding (use one of those blocks with the handles) with a guide coat to help you find all the high and low spots. Make sure its dead straight and the primer is 'raw'. If you get that right the paint will stick really well. The difference with 2pak and acrylic, much easier to sand acrylic. So make use of that.Hey JBird, you seem to be in the know. How do you do flush joins of different colours? I know going over top of a colour with the black you get a lip, does this other way stop that so it is smooth at the colour transition? Are there other ways to achieve the same result, i.e. sand/feather back once you've masked for black?
Using Pete's method, clear, sand, reclear will give it a nice finish without noticeable raise edges. But if your doing an overall black on red theme everywhere, it will take forever, so enlist some help or just live with it. After a cut and polish people wont even take notice of it.
I would definitely recommend getting some books on it, just so you have something to go by step by step.
Cheers
James
#23
REDA9X
-
- Inactive
-
- 0 posts
Removed
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 21 December 2005 - 02:11 PM
Yes the car is all red with black over the top. Buy some good quality 3M thin blue tape, it's like vinyl for doing the stripes and get their blue masking tape too. DON"T skimp on tape, trust me.Thanks for the tips & advice you have all been very hepful, when I have a go I will let you know how things turn out. Fingers crossed
Red with your A9X did you paint the sides of car all red then put your black strip's straight over the red paint?
#24
_SLR5000_
_SLR5000_
-
- Guests
Posted 21 December 2005 - 05:32 PM
Thanks again for replies! Red if I can get my car to look as good as yours I will be very pleased. I will buy the 3M tape you mentioned.
Yella i picked up the spray painting book from Supa Cheap $19.95 & that also seems to have some very useful tips.
When I get stuck into the job I will post some pictures, as long as it dont look like crap
Yella i picked up the spray painting book from Supa Cheap $19.95 & that also seems to have some very useful tips.
When I get stuck into the job I will post some pictures, as long as it dont look like crap
#25
_Eddie_
_Eddie_
-
- Guests
Posted 23 December 2005 - 02:40 PM
Hi, I am painting my car as well. A couple other things to take heed of:
1.) Humidity: Don't paint over 75% or your paint may start blistering and popping up in about 2-3 years time. If you have a controlled environment ie. a spray booth it won't matter. Check the www.bom.gov.au for current humidity temps in your area every time before you paint. Definitely don't paint when it's raining outside.
2.) Thinners: Make sure you use premium thinners for your top coats for glossy finish and follow the paints thinning ratio instructions.
3.) Good surfaces: Etch prime bare metal. Make sure surface is clean with a wax n grease remover that leaves no residue. If your old paint looks dodgy or suspect - get rid of it.
4.) Finish - very import to see how the paint is coming off the gun. Make your first coats thin. Make your last top coats nice and thick with out it running. This is will give it a deep and solid finish. If your last coats aren't thick enough they will come out dusty looking, grey looking or spotty. If you over do it, you may get orange peel. Find the balance. Lastly, use heaps of clear coat.
1.) Humidity: Don't paint over 75% or your paint may start blistering and popping up in about 2-3 years time. If you have a controlled environment ie. a spray booth it won't matter. Check the www.bom.gov.au for current humidity temps in your area every time before you paint. Definitely don't paint when it's raining outside.
2.) Thinners: Make sure you use premium thinners for your top coats for glossy finish and follow the paints thinning ratio instructions.
3.) Good surfaces: Etch prime bare metal. Make sure surface is clean with a wax n grease remover that leaves no residue. If your old paint looks dodgy or suspect - get rid of it.
4.) Finish - very import to see how the paint is coming off the gun. Make your first coats thin. Make your last top coats nice and thick with out it running. This is will give it a deep and solid finish. If your last coats aren't thick enough they will come out dusty looking, grey looking or spotty. If you over do it, you may get orange peel. Find the balance. Lastly, use heaps of clear coat.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
