91 replies to this topic

[LX2DR]

Hatch/Roo - I am not sure which panel this is you are referring too.. i guess its under the dash somewhere? I need to cut into a panel to see it??

Check Grahams (LX5008) project on his SS restore, he had to do the plenum as well and did a great job of documenting his work.
http://www.gmh-toran.......ic=5254&hl=
Important pics from his thread,

[REDA9X]

Lots of different bit's of information flowing around here. Lets deal with the issues. So far I see the original post says the fan works, but no hot air is coming out and that in the second post it appears hot water is not flowing to the heater core. Would that be right? The leak is most likely a seperate issue as the heater core is in the centre of the car.
Firstly, the water, it sounds like it is not going to the core, yet, I haven't seen if there is a tap fitted or not? Is it fitted? You said it's airconditioned, is it factory air or not? If it's factory air it should have a tap as I showed earlier, if dealer fitted or aftermarket, it may have a tap fitted also. Is there a tap? If there is a tap, check this first. If not, the core is blocked. Remove the hoses both sides and shove your garden hose in and flush it out both directions till the water flows clearly. Thermostat shouldn't be the problem at all. Is this a V8 or a 6? Check the fittings on the pump are not blocked also

[REDA9X]

To be clear the leak is not related to the heater issue in any way, the leak is an external issue.

Cheers Red, Yeah am gonna give it a flush out tonight. TO FLUSH IT, LEAVE THE HOSES ATTACHED TO THE CORE, REMOVE THEM FROM THE OTHER END AND SHOVE THE GARDEN HOSE IN

It is factory air.

What I am unclear of is where the pump is located - I can follow from the rad through the bits and bobs to the firewall and back out again.. so is the pump on the other side of the firewall? tHE PUMP IS THE WATER PUMP ON THE FRONT OF THE BLOCK IS IT A V8 OR A 6 I CAN PUT UP SOME PICS ONCE I KNOW WHAT ENGINE YOU HAVE

The heater core would be where exactlly? YOU SHOULD SEE 2 HOSES GOING TO THE FIREWALL, THEY SLIDE OVER THE PIPES GOING INTO THE HEATER CORE WHICH SITS INSIDE THE BLACK BOX IN THE CENTRE OF THE CAR UNDER THE DASH

When you say "tap" do you mean the sockets that the hoses connect to on the firewall? NO, THE TAP (LOOK ON THE RARE SPARES SITE AT THE PART NUMBER I SUPPLIED) SITS IN THE HOSE GOING TO THE HEATER CORE. IT WORKS LIKE A TAP AT HOME AND SHUTS OFF THE SUPPLY OF WATER TO THE HEATER CORE, NORMAL TORANAS DON'T HAVE THIS, FACTORY AIR ONES DO.

[rodomo]

I have added arrows to one of your pics.
These are your heater hoses and they appear to be connected correctly from what I can see.
DON'T drill your water pump.

Attached Files

•  heat2.jpg   86.17K   12 downloads

Edited by rodomo, 02 May 2009 - 11:08 PM.

[rodomo]

The water runs through the manifold to help vapourise the fuel.

Your temp light should come only while the engine is being cranked but not actually running. Kinda like a test to ensure the globe works in the dash.

Run the engine to operating temp. Feel the hose from the manifold where it enters the firewall.
It should be hot like the top radiator hose.
If it isn't, you have a blockage, probably the heater core.

Edited by rodomo, 02 May 2009 - 11:33 PM.

[rodomo]

might try that now man. thanks

Which bit? I've edited it twice!

[LX2DR]

^^ Definately not factory AC compressor^^

This is the complete factory system out of the car with AC Delco compessor and VIR system (Valves In Reciever)


Also your engine bay should look like this when assembled.


And for clarity the heater fan duct should look like this (large black box in the back left hand corner)

[rodomo]

Also the plot thickens.. Did the accessories test. All lights come on except the temp... Now that doesn't prove its the thermo .. but it also doesn't disprove it.

Read the post.
It only comes on while the engine is cranking.
It's a test function to let you know the globe in the dash is O.K.

Paul, his heater hoses run differently, your car is later I think?

Only 3 edits this time

Edited by rodomo, 03 May 2009 - 12:58 AM.

[LX2DR]

Rob - yeah when i crank it, it doesn't come on (thats what i meant by accessories sorry to confuse). - Maybe we are getting off the point a little though?

I have proven that water flows through all the hoses with good preasure. Its almost like its missing a heat transfer into the water thats in hoses beneath the thermo. I know I'm a newb to this but I can't figure out why the water isn't heating up when it hits the heater core. (i temp tested that water and its luke warm whilst the rad water would take your face off)


Paul thanks for the pictures mate, got a feeling yours might be an LX as i am not familuar with your set up.. both of yours have a straight run from your heater to the water pump, on of mine passes through the manifold on the other side then to the heater..

As the AC isn;t factory its probably of little value to anyone so I might tear it out now (looks shit) and see if i can identify what it came out of. ATM i only care about the heater

Yes knew the difference, water heated manifold vs my exhaust heated.
But the AC should be same same if it was factory.

Edited by LX2DR, 03 May 2009 - 01:27 AM.

[76lxhatch]

There is a good flow from the fan on both hot and cold. However when i switch to hot there is a little less preasure then cold.

If you're talking about air flow/pressure from the blower, it sounds more like the air flap could be at fault as mentioned in earlier posts. When the car is warmed up and the heater is on, is the heater box warm? (Regardless of whether warm air is coming out). Did you check the flap operation?

[VitcLJ]

Jol , I disagree with Rodomo. Your heater is connected to the two pipes that come from under the thermostat. These pipes are at basically the same pressure. they come from the same point )front of head) they are supposed to provide the flow for the inlet manifold warming. DRILL the waterpump and connect the heater to the top pipe of the thermostat housing and the water pump. Connect the manifold to the top and bottom pipes of the thermostat housing. You may have to get a tee to put in the top pipe.The bottom pipe is supplied via a hole in the head and a channel in the housing it is quite often blocked with scale and does not flow any water above a trickle. I reckon this will fix your problem
T