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HEATER not working / Fog


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#51 LX2DR

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 05:55 PM

In Rob's defence i think the lines are as per original on this car.

Posted Image

Also the thermostat housing isnt tapped! so if its original thats how it has always been.

But, if you want to you could swap the thermo housing for tapped one , drill the hole in the pump and run the heater hoses down the RH side.

Mine isnt as original, but there is more than enough hoses and crap on the LH side of engine as is, i prefer it my way for tidyness.

"Your drip problem"

Just thinking :fool: is your AC working? are you using it?

Your AC is an under dash type i think? pic of LH under dash would help.

Is the condensate drain blocked on this unit? should have a drain hose on the bottom of it somewhere? to let the water out.

Edited by LX2DR, 03 May 2009 - 06:01 PM.


#52 _Courage_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:15 PM

LXDR2 - yep that is exactly how mine is setup.

With the fog/drip - this is a leak in the car only happens when it rains, it is not related to a heater/ac issue.

So where does this leave us? I have all tubing set correctly, the heater flap is working, the fan is working.

The water inside the tubes isn;t getting that warm at all.

Some people are saying that the pump NEEDS to be drilled .. is this the only way that I can get my heater working correctly? .. To the best of my knowledge the heater has never worked .. ever.

Remember mine is a 4/74 car

#53 76lxhatch

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:20 PM

The water inside the tubes isn;t getting that warm at all.

It won't heat then, you're getting warmer (pardon the pun)

#54 _Courage_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:29 PM

Hi Josh, Yes I do have a basic understanding of thermodynamics - thanks for the tip :P

LXhatch .. mmmmm


Come on guys, this water needs to be warm to heat the core. Its not getting warm at all. I've had the car running for 20 mins and tested it. No good. Pump is fine, preasure is fine. All tubes are connected fine. There is no blockage and the flap is fine.

Leaves two things right? Either drill or thermo.

Is it an engineering issue with Pump needing to be drilled and connected or is it possibly an issue with the thermo stat?

I don't think the Thermo would cause this though even if it is in open position there would be and influx of heat still or my car would overheat very quickly.


(also I previously indicated that the temp light was broken. I was wrong, it is just a little faded. The temp light works fine

#55 _Lxrana_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:45 PM

+1 on the thermostat. If your pipes aren't getting hot it's not opening. The heater in my Torry is warm as after only 5 minutes. Pm me if you need a hand Joel.
Cheers Anthony.
Ps you probably still have my number in your phone from all the times I accidentally called you after picking up the nose cone off you.lol

#56 _Courage_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 08:45 PM

OK so far i have 2 for thermo and 2 for drilling.

I believe drilling would fix the issue, but I think it might be extreme.


I imagine the method is the same for changing a thermo on any car?. Unbolt house, pull out junk one, give a clean up, drop in new one, bolt up.. TADA! I can't see any sign of a gasket..so not required yeah?

Anyone wanna guestimate the cost of a thermostat? I recon around $30 yeah?

#57 rodomo

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 08:48 PM

DON'T DRILL THE HOLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wait 5 mins and read my next post!!!!!!!

#58 rodomo

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:00 PM

The water is drawn out of cavity "A"
Travels through the inlet manifold, then the heater core and enters cavity "B"
(A+B are not connected to each other)

Posted Image

Then it flows through the hole on the front of the head, through an internal elbow that is not connected to any water jacket, and into the block.

Posted Image

Then, through another internal elbow in the block, also not connected to any water jacket.

Posted Image

And ends up being drawn into your water pump via A HOLE THAT IS ALREADY THERE!!!!

Posted Image

Edited by rodomo, 03 May 2009 - 09:04 PM.


#59 ToRunYa

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:00 PM

jol, u are banned from drills! plus ya homebrand one wouldnt do the job. replace the thermostat and go from there...

#60 _Courage_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:03 PM

Hi all. Ems .. shud up :P ..

Rob - what can i say mate, you are a superstar. Thank you so much for spending the time in putting that together for me. Absolute legend!

#61 rodomo

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:06 PM

These holes and cavities can block up over time, as can your heater core.

#62 _Courage_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:13 PM

Rob - only issue i have with the holes being blocked up is that there is good water preasure at every part of the cycle in and out. Its all good and strong. If there was a blockage then surely the preasure would be weak or no there at all.

Edited by Courage, 03 May 2009 - 09:19 PM.


#63 rodomo

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:26 PM

Change the thermostat and see what happens, if anything, it is stuck open or not there at all.

#64 _Courage_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:38 PM

Cheers thanks all.

I will be changing the thermo - hopefully tomorrow and see whats happen.

Watch this space

#65 rodomo

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 10:21 PM

I imagine the method is the same for changing a thermo on any car?. Unbolt house, pull out junk one, give a clean up, drop in new one, bolt up.. TADA! I can't see any sign of a gasket..so not required yeah?
Yes, there is a gasket.
Anyone wanna guestimate the cost of a thermostat? I recon around $30 yeah?
More like $20 tops.



#66 _Courage_

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 10:35 PM

Cheers Rob remind me to drop ya round a 6 at some stage

#67 Rockoz

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 11:40 PM

While you are at it Jol, take the housing off the front of the motor and check for blockages in the water ports.
It wont take much more while you are at it.
Because there seems to be a flow problem because the hoses arent getting hot, I still think you may have a blockage, and thata the only place you havent checked by the sounds of it.

#68 76lxhatch

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 07:35 AM

The drilling opens up the pump to a good flow of heated water which in turn heats the core.

I think therein lies the flaw in your logic though; you said you already have plenty of flow so this wouldn't have any effect on the temp. +1 for the thermostat

#69 Rockoz

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 12:30 PM

But he has said that the water in the radiator hose is hot, and that it isnt so hot in the heater hoses.
If the water isnt moving through the hoses, or moving only a little then this would be the case.
If there was no blockage in the system then all of the hoses would be at the same or very close to the same temperature.

Im voting for a blockage.

#70 VitcLJ

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 06:23 PM

Agree with above. its probably a blockage in the lower pipe.

If you want the quick easy fix then drill the pump shift the hose and plug the bottom pipe.

If its important that you keep the original setup you may have to go to the extreme of removing the head to clean out the crap (sometimes wires and the like wont shift it). Its your choice and it may just need the removal of the thermo housing. And the water pump to get to the blockage from both ends.

In all this You keep mentioning the thermostat. Its my understanding that the thermostat only affects the water flow to the radiator. The heater system is a seperate path that's why the bottom pipe goes to the suction side of the pump thats also why the heater (When new and no blockage) works long before the thermo opens.

If you water temp gets up high enough to feel it in the pipes them I would say the thermo is probably doing its job.

But hey its your call. I am a bushy at heart and take the easiest way out in these situations.

Dammed if I would go to the trouble of removing all the hardware to get the channel from the pump to the bottom pipe cleaned out let alone consider removing the head, But thats me you do what you think is best.

#71 _Courage_

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 10:09 PM

Hi all.

Ok I changed out the thermo. Took here for a spin.. i found the car to have a bit more guts then usual (NFIY) but alas it did not fix the heatihng issue.

The heater is still not working, but the thermostat was older then me (literally) so I have no issue with the change.

Sooooo I now am convinced of a blockage.

I ran a little suck/blow test and i think there is a blockage on the secondary pipe although there is water flowing through it when i DC any section of the pipe if there is a block at the return point then the water will be stationary and not cause heating (right???)

My thought now is to remove the section above the pump that the thermo is a part of. What is this called? as no doubt i'll need a gasket for it.

#72 _Courage_

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 11:12 PM

Have been told the gasket i need is a lower thermostat housing gasket .. confirmation?

#73 rodomo

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 12:05 AM

Draw a pic of this and take it with you.

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#74 _Courage_

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 01:18 PM

Printed it out .. off to see repco tonight.

I am just wondering... is there any chance at all that I am missing a heater core??.. I tried to get into the box last night but couldn;t find a way without taking out dash/console

#75 76lxhatch

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 04:18 PM

If you can see the metal tubes that the hoses connect to then you have the core, its all one piece.




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