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My newer Monaro


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#176 rodomo

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 12:19 AM

Sorry, my blue.
V8 are differnet to 6

#177 _jabba_

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 12:21 AM

Mate i must admit, the extent of your work was like, extreme, i was like thinking what the f*ck, but looking at your latest pic its looking bloody good. You got bigger balls than me mate  good on ya. Love Monaro's so its bonus eye candy for me


No way, my sills could really do with the treatment your car got. I'm to scared to remove them because im worried id end up with a dead monaro, i wouldnt have the skill to get everything lined up again and my welding is horrable :). Next time your in town tho haha ;)...

Oh and your cross member is not lining up, could it be because you got the cross member bolted into the wrong holes on ur subframe?? I know with the LJ Torana the subframe/chassis rails have half a dozen holes for the different cross member positions.


I did try the most forward bolt holes, the gearbox mount comes close to lining up but the g/b sump sits on the x-member so the mount way off touching it. upside down also doesnt seem to work :(. I might have to cut the sump shape into x-member if i cant work it out, maybe they just suppied the wrong x-member for that gearbox. Ill have to get the ruler out and measure my other HQ and see how much clearence i have, because i can see it hitting on the tunnel if it mounts to the stock location.

Can you lift your engine off the front mounts and have the plates that bolt to the engine on the front side of the rubber mounts?
E.g move the engine forward?

This may already be, but I can't see in the pics.


Theres only three bolt holes for the mounts to install in, the metal adaptors were labled passenger and drivers side but maybe they were out of some yank car, ill see if that will make any difference.

#178 _bones_

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 07:00 AM

That crossmember is to suit a Turbo 350. A Turbo 400 crossmember doesn't have that tang but will have plates welded on either side underneath to box in the channel. The plates are approx 300mmx150mmx3mm and would be touching the top corner of the wheelie bin if placed in the same position as the Turbo 350 crossmember pic.
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#179 Tiny

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 09:02 AM

Ahh thank god for bones!

I was going to say my crossmember came out of a 6 cyl and we had to put a 10mm plate under the gearbox mount to get the box into roughly the right country!

Also... The standard sump hit the crossmember too with the engine mounts and spacers that were in the car... I always wondered why the old sump looked like shit up front!

Now ive got a BIG morosso winged oil pan and i didnt hear any problems fitting it in this time ( with the crossmember.... FARK the exhaust pipes are close to it!).

Dont be too scared to have a go at those sills mate, I want to see how to do them cause mine needs it done! LOL!
Even if your very careful how you cut them, and then end up paying someone a little to help weld them back in i think you'd regret it if you left them and then they came up with rust ( like mine :cry: )

Keep it up Jabba going to be a beast!

#180 _jabba_

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 11:51 AM

Ahh awesome, thanks bones :). I'm pritty sure i know what your saying but do you have any pictures just to be sure. It sounds kind of like the xmember for my celica 5 speed conversion in my other HQ.


Haha, i dont want to create more work for myself :P. I think ill just stick to the small patch repairs i'm doing now and just drill some drainage holes and pump them full of lanolin oil on a regular basis, the whole car will be getting lanolin oil through it so hopefully stop any future rust!

I think you better get stuck into yours tho, take lots of photos so then i have something to go off for when im ready to do mine, rofl :).



Thanks
Damien

#181 _bones_

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 03:44 PM

Sorry, I don't have any pics of a Turbo 400 crossmember.
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#182 _jabba_

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Posted 01 January 2008 - 10:59 PM

Ok well i got interupted mid way through my floor repairs, see this thread.

Ill let the photos do the speaking.

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I found this in the there, *shrug*.
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#183 _jabba_

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 09:54 PM

I finally bit the bullet and bought a gas regulator and rented a E size bottle of argoshield, what a difference that makes to welding. the welds are penetrating better and looking nicer. My welding still isnt anything flash but the results are 100% better than gas-less :).

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Only one small bit to go then grind, paint and seam seal :rockon:.




Damien

#184 toryman76

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 10:23 PM

the floors looking good jabba. suprised you stuck it out this long with gasless wire!! i used it on one patch and couldnt stand the crap so went and got a bottle of gas too. far better welds with far better penetration and you can actually see what your doing! oh and its not messy ;)

#185 _jabba_

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 10:34 PM

Yep, ill never go back... Controlling the weld is alot easyer too...

Now lets just not tell the other half i spent money ;).

#186 _jabba_

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Posted 09 January 2008 - 09:33 PM

The floor is done, woot. :rockon: :rockon:.

Before

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Edited by jabba, 09 January 2008 - 09:35 PM.


#187 toryman76

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Posted 10 January 2008 - 12:40 PM

looks awesome jabba. i think its about time i bought some of that (POR15) stuff for my beast!

#188 Bart

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Posted 10 January 2008 - 06:07 PM

Mate thats a great job, nice one, if you ever do this kind of welding again i would recomend using a Henrob, i just welded mild steel a week ago and the weld beed is so small it requires very little grinding, next time i do welding on panels ill be using the Henrob.
Anyhow like i said great job :spoton:

#189 _jabba_

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Posted 10 January 2008 - 10:36 PM

POR15 is expensive but if its as good as they say it is, then its worth every cent!

How different is welding with a Henrob to welding with a Mig. I think i read on one of streetneets pages that he uses the Henrob to weld his floors in, and then hammers the weld while its still glowing to 'forge the steel'. Very interesting reading anyway.

#190 _jabba_

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Posted 10 January 2008 - 10:49 PM

I really should stop updating this every day, people might think i dont have a life!

Welded up the pin holes in the dash and one small hole under where the window sits.

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The usual POR15 treatment

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I ran out of por15, so ill have to scuff the shine off it to do a second coat when i buy some more.

#191 Bart

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Posted 10 January 2008 - 11:52 PM

Henrob is a specialised tourch which uses oxy/accetalyne

#192 _jabba_

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 07:59 AM

. .

Edited by jabba, 11 January 2008 - 08:13 AM.


#193 _jabba_

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 08:12 AM

and you manually feed in the welding material??

I think ill stick to the mig for now anyway, i'm finally getting the hang of it. I worked out why the welder was spitting alot, i had the wire speed turned up to much. I turned the knob a whole 4mm down and now i get a really nice steady arc, and its so much easyer to see what i'm doing to boot! My welds are sitting nice and flat now, not just building up on the surface. I couldnt get these kind of results with the gasless no matter how much i adjusted it!

Edited by jabba, 11 January 2008 - 08:14 AM.


#194 Bart

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Posted 11 January 2008 - 06:42 PM

yep you manually feed

#195 _jabba_

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 04:55 PM

Today I repaired the rusty radiator support, it had the usual rust under the battery tray. I used a single headlight support for the donor, it had rust in another area so I wasnt ruining any good parts.

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Removed from the donor support

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The rusty areas were stripped back, rust converted and then covered in weld through primer.

Edited by jabba, 12 January 2008 - 04:58 PM.


#196 Tiny

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 06:18 PM

Can ya weld through the paint without problem?

I was taught to clean back the area before welding so as not to contaminate the weld while your welding, gives a much nicer finish too!

On another note... I had a bit of a look at our Torana today... and i should send it up Jabba... You'd have a field day! EASY as compared to what your doing!!

Cheers!

#197 _jabba_

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 06:42 PM

Can ya weld through the paint without problem?

I was taught to clean back the area before welding so as not to contaminate the weld while your welding, gives a much nicer finish too!

On another note... I had a bit of a look at our Torana today... and i should send it up Jabba... You'd have a field day! EASY as compared to what your doing!!

Cheers!

Yep with weld through primer you can, its designed to be painted on to metal on metal joins and conducts electricity. I wouldnt say anything that i've done is the right way to do it though because i've never been shown how, just going off other peoples threads and pics on the 'net :). I've never welded anything in my life before i bought the mig and monaro!

haha :).
Have you started your torry yet, i havent seen anything since the thread when you first bought it...

Edited by jabba, 12 January 2008 - 06:45 PM.


#198 Tiny

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 06:49 PM

Nah i havent touched it till today..

We're considering selling it actually.. just not going to have the time to do it!

Good stuff about the primer! i didnt know that!

#199 _jabba_

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Posted 12 January 2008 - 08:27 PM

If you do sell it at least you still have the monaro, that would be a bucket load of fun anyways :).

#200 Tiny

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Posted 13 January 2008 - 07:11 PM

Yeah thats it mate!

The munro will never go, just gotto keep maintaining and fixing it!




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