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[MODNIZD] 71 LC 4 Door


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#26 _studricho_

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 10:38 PM

studricho sent me some good detail. :)

Car came from Salvage Auctions. Had a good look at it last night. Its come off the road and hit a barbwire fence and a Tree sideways. There is dirt everywhere under the car. Got it home for about $3000. Seeing a front cut was $2500 think I did alright.

Going to try and get it running tonight. The guy cut out all the good stuff straight through the looms, boost controler, turbo timer and unbolted blow off valve.


You should be able to make a plate to cover the blow off valve hole and for the rest you can just go through the electrical drawings I sent. they are pretty hard to read.

If you need any further pictures just let me know.

Youngy

For you information my might UC hatch back has come a very long way from the trip to newcastle. Many little bugs have been sorted and it now pulls even harder.

If I had the coin I would so hit up the drags on the 10th.

#27 Heath

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 11:02 PM

Just weld over the blow off valve boss amd make up a tuned length dose pipe :tease:

#28 MODNIZD

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 01:46 AM

Started on the skyline tonight. Put it out the back and started pulling the wiring appart. Its been cut up to fit all the things he putted out after crashing it. It turns over but no fuel pump... so need to sort out that.

How does the RB25 5 speed compare to the Trimatic size wise? Worth going a T5 or Supra box? Dont want to cut the tunnel up.

#29 _patch_

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 09:35 AM

braaaaaaaaa zutututututu braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa zututututututu errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr boom.


hahaha. wish all ricers can go boom! :gun:

#30 Heath

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 10:05 AM

I believe the later Skyline manual box is pretty good, how much choppy choppy is involved I'm not sure. Is a T5 or a W58 really that amazing anyway? From what I've driven and heard from friends and on forums, they are all 'fine' but everything has its limit. The torque ratings are probably available somewhere on the internet.

#31 355LX

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 10:09 AM

Started on the skyline tonight. Put it out the back and started pulling the wiring appart. Its been cut up to fit all the things he putted out after crashing it. It turns over but no fuel pump... so need to sort out that.

How does the RB25 5 speed compare to the Trimatic size wise? Worth going a T5 or Supra box? Dont want to cut the tunnel up.


Phil not sure about clearance but going away from the rb25 box will not only cause you more work and $$'s in adapting, but also be a step backwards. They are perfectly suited to your motor and will take a hiding.

#32 _studricho_

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 12:03 PM

I ended up cutting up my tunnel just to give me more room. I had it almost in there with the old tunnel, but it left little or no room if I ever needed to pull the gearbox out.

In hindsight I'm very glad that I did modify the tunnel as I did have to remove the gearbox to rebuild it. Some idiot assume that there was oil in the gearbox from the half cut.

By the way, they are a pretty good gearbox like others have said.

Make sure you mark out all the wiring as this will make your job impossible later one. When you get the engine out change things like rear main seals, clutch, timing belt and check the water pump. All the hard to get at things later on.

#33 _studricho_

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 01:16 PM

I think that worked. I've attached a picture of what the modified wiring for the rb25 into basically any car. It contains pin out numbers from the ecu that will help you.

Posted Image

Here's a direct link for you below.

http://yfrog.com/6brb25torana037j

Edited by studricho, 03 July 2010 - 01:20 PM.


#34 MODNIZD

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 01:15 AM

Arrr so pissed! Spent about 3 hours on Saturday pissing around trying to sort out why the feul pump wasnt working... then gave it 12v and tried turning it over. Wont start, checked for spark... nothing, pulled out imobalizer, still nothing, then pulled off pass kick panel, NO ECU! HE CUT IT OUT! Arrgg. So now on the hunt for a ECU and Engine Loom. Once I get the car going ill pull out the motor and running gear but want to get it going first.

Cheers for the wiring drawing Paul.

#35 LJ RB30

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 06:21 AM

How does the RB25 5 speed compare to the Trimatic size wise? Worth going a T5 or Supra box? Dont want to cut the tunnel up.
[/quote]

Don't know how this compares to a Trimatic.
I strongly suggest that when you get the motor running that you drive it to see the condition of the box.
I started with a Supra box kit from CRS (MANUALS ARE MORE FUN!) had to grind the crap out of the bell housing to get clearance , nice box, no issues but it only did about 1000 miles before removal so don't know how it would have survived (maybe will be a future test!). After making 390rwhp with the clutch slipping on the dyno my tuner suggested a box upgrade as well as the clutch. I bought an R33 box from a wrecker untested (first mistake) took 3.5 monthes to fit it (second mistake) on initial start of the car i knew straight away the box was not healthy (was still on blocks at this time) frOcking spewin! Only get a 3 month warranty from the wrecker. As for fitting it, the Supra stick comes through the standard hole, but the R33 stick is about 5" back. Here is a pic of the stick with the stock hand brake lever & hand brake with 3" taken out of it.

Posted Image

The top of the tunnel was stretched by by laying some rod on to of the box & jacked it up! I made my own cross member. I have the motor set back as far as possible with only the seam behind the rocker cover flush with the firewall. I have had issues with Hardy spicer tailshaft yokes, to the point of saying DON'T use them unless your only going to drive like a nanna!! Any other questions i can help with let me know.

#36 Heath

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 11:21 AM

The top of the tunnel was stretched by by laying some rod on to of the box & jacked it up!

:spoton:

#37 MODNIZD

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 04:04 PM

Cheers Trevor, so what engine mounts are you using? CRS as well?

Yeah I plan on getting it running then going up and down the street a few times.

I don't know if it will pass the pits with the shifter so far back. I should be able to move the hand brake back a bit too.

Sourced a ECU, now just need the loom. Also bought a Greddy RS BOV. On the look out now for stock BOV for the pits.

#38 _mumbo_

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 06:53 PM

You should see if you can have a look at Trevors car it goes hard and i think he does his own work good bloke to get ideas of

#39 LJ RB30

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 09:57 AM

Cheers Trevor, so what engine mounts are you using? CRS as well?

Yeah I plan on getting it running then going up and down the street a few times.

I don't know if it will pass the pits with the shifter so far back. I should be able to move the hand brake back a bit too.

Sourced a ECU, now just need the loom. Also bought a Greddy RS BOV. On the look out now for stock BOV for the pits.


As Mumbo said (thanks for the rap mate) i made 99% myself cose at the time no one was making these bits. Yes i doubt the pits will like my version of the hand brake, i looked at moving the mounting of it back as well but decided it was easier to shorten the lever. I must let you know my car is no longer registered & has not been over the pits here, i started building it in Adelaide with the intention of being street legal, it has a cat, canister, small filler neck. I got it running over here(not long before the missus had the twins!!) still on SA rego but then headed straight for the dyno then the drags! This of course distracted me from the aim of getting it over the pits. Even took it for a thrash around Wannerro on a tuning day a month or so ago (bloody good fun) but this highlighted a brake issue so now putting R33 calipers on it. PM me if you want a look, i'm in Chidlow.

#40 MODNIZD

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 10:39 AM

Cheers Trevor. I will take you up on that offer. Maybe in a few months, I am off on holiday with the mrs soon.

I have been reading up and it looks like I should be able to get it in there without to much trouble. There is a Green LJ with a RB25DET in it with stock intake and still has the low mounted turbo by the looks of it.

Yeah the hand brake might be a bit of a problem.

I was originally going to put the big HSV Brakes on the front of it but after seeing the Skyline R33 Turbo brakes I might do that instead and get the VL/VN diff re drilled for Nissan 5x114. Then put in a remote booster.

#41 MODNIZD

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 02:55 PM

ECU in my hands... now just for the loom or a plug. :)

#42 LJ RB30

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 05:46 PM

Cheers Trevor. I will take you up on that offer. Maybe in a few months, I am off on holiday with the mrs soon.

I have been reading up and it looks like I should be able to get it in there without to much trouble. There is a Green LJ with a RB25DET in it with stock intake and still has the low mounted turbo by the looks of it.

Yeah the hand brake might be a bit of a problem.

I was originally going to put the big HSV Brakes on the front of it but after seeing the Skyline R33 Turbo brakes I might do that instead and get the VL/VN diff re drilled for Nissan 5x114. Then put in a remote booster.


Might catch up at the drags in a few monthes. Why redrill for nissan? You got some mags already? I'm putting the Nissan calipers on VT disc's with hub adaptors & getting a mate to water jet cut some caliper adaptors (getting a spare set as well, when he pulls his finger out!). AS for diff's, VL's dont have drain plugs, not sure bout VN but VS definetly do. After breaking several axles i got 31 spline billets from Final drive, then frustrated after stuffing another (new) LSD i wanted to put a LOKKA in it but they only do a 28 spline for the BW78 frOck frOck frOck!!! So currently has mini spool which i dont like.

#43 MODNIZD

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 02:19 AM

That sounds good Trevor. I plan to take the bike down again on a Wednesday and try and get into the 10s. Let me know when you head down next.

I would be intrested to see your brake setup too, and if you dont mind tag onto the end of some of those mounts :)

So VS? Didnt all VS have IRS?

#44 _Viper_

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:50 AM

Nope some VS had solid axels, all VN-VS solid axels rear brakes are the same I believe

#45 MODNIZD

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 08:54 PM

Picked up a Loom today as well as a stock BOV. So ill clean up the loom tonight and put it in the car tomorrow if the weather holds out.

#46 fatslr

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 09:17 PM

Hey Phil
Good to see you are getting stuck into it again i was hopeing you would go the V8 but can understand your reasoning for the turbo 6 keep up the posts.

Garth

#47 _studricho_

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 11:28 PM

Just to inspire you Phil.

My car weighs 1,300, runs the 3.55 diff, 235/17 tires, 5 speed, 3" exhaust, hi flo-cat, K&N filter and 12 PSI booast.

It run a best of 13.8 down the quarter.

Imagine how quick it would get your LC along.

#48 orangeLJ

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 11:38 AM

And paul wasnt giving it assloads off the line either! so it will scoot in an LC!

#49 _studricho_

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 11:46 AM

And paul wasnt giving it assloads off the line either! so it will scoot in an LC!


I was talking to my neighbour that yesterday arvo and he said that I needed to kill it off the line.

I was finding very hard to find that balance between loosing traction and hooking up due to the fact that I couldn't even hear my car.

#50 _AD_75_

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 04:44 PM


And paul wasnt giving it assloads off the line either! so it will scoot in an LC!


I was finding very hard to find that balance between loosing traction and hooking up due to the fact that I couldn't even hear my car.


The only way to overcome this i've found is to get a good tacho with a shift light, but you probably don't care much for one of those if you hardly ever use the car at the drags much.




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