PROJECT PAPAYA - A VERY FRUITY RESTO THREAD
#51
Posted 17 January 2011 - 09:39 AM
I'll wait to see what matt suggests in regard to reinforcement plates. Easily done though and I have some nice metal plate kicking around that will be perfect for the job :-)
#52
Posted 17 January 2011 - 09:51 AM
#53 _nial8r_
Posted 17 January 2011 - 02:47 PM
Red lines being the plate ( on the inside ) and the black lines the stitch welds
now to wait and see how it should be done, when Matt pulls his finger out so i know and can store it in my memory
#54 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 17 January 2011 - 04:32 PM
#55 _Kush_
Posted 17 January 2011 - 09:23 PM
90 degree angles are the worst enemy of stress-points. Make sure you have a nice gentle radius on each corner.
#56
Posted 19 January 2011 - 09:50 PM
This was my first car in 1990. Purchased as a hot 6 and then converted to a mild 253.
Torana1.jpg 131.23K 3 downloads
In 1991 it was wrapped around a Nissan Pulsar, tree, brick wall and 2 box trailers. I still don't know how I walked away from that one! The other side was just as bad!
Torana2.jpg 99.62K 3 downloads
2 years and 2 more Toranas later, I bought this one from a car yard on Parramatta Rd in Sydney. It was a totally original Mandarin Red L32 manual SL/R, with original donk and all. Sadly I don't have any pics of it until I started to bastardise it.
Out went the 253 and manual box, which sat in my parents garden to rot then be dumped. Out went the original seats for Commodore ones. On went flares. In went a 308 with Stage 2 TH350 trans. On went Chrome Yellow paint.
Torana3.jpg 53.01K 3 downloads
Torana4.jpg 56.44K 2 downloads
Torana5.jpg 25.28K 3 downloads
It looked pretty good when I think about it. It went hard. Used to chirp the rear wheels when shifting. I blew 4 diffs in it, and while changing the last one my spanner slipped off the nut and hit my front tooth, shattering it. That was the final straw and after finishing the diff center replacement, it was promptly sold and I never owned another Torana, until now......
I still feel guilty about bastardising that SL/R..... which is truly why I have chosen to buy another L32 manual SL/R, and restore it back to 100% original condition. When it's all done, nothing will top the amount of pride I will have in it.
So there you go..... the story behind Project Papaya!
#57 _Liam_
Posted 19 January 2011 - 10:14 PM
#58 _ls1lj_
Posted 19 January 2011 - 11:56 PM
Cheers
Ben
#59
Posted 14 February 2011 - 04:20 PM
Again, I want this SL/R to be as per factory, circa 1976, so this is the kinda thing I have to do. In all honesty I love this kind of work, so it was a nice job for me to take on.
Shaved rail and standard rail lip held in plce with a couple of spots....
005.jpg 124.3K 2 downloads
The same rail with the lip fully welded in place....
025.jpg 126.73K 3 downloads
And with welds dressed.....
027.jpg 134.75K 2 downloads
And the same on the other side, for good measure....
024.jpg 136.2K 3 downloads
028.jpg 136.4K 4 downloads
Both sides came out just as I had imagined.... PERFECT!
.....next will be the fitting of replacement battery tray and same panel on opposite side of engine bay.
#60 _nial8r_
Posted 14 February 2011 - 06:25 PM
The rails have come up very well and with a lick of etch on them i doubt anyone would ever know they have been repaired/replaced except all of use reading and watch your build your doing really well, keep it up and dont forget the pic's
#61 _Leakey_
Posted 18 February 2011 - 03:33 PM
As I said to you, I'll keep an eye out for anything that might
be good for your machine, if you dont already have it.
I will certainly be asking for some welding advice!!!
Look forward to the next update.
Cheers, Mark
#62 _1ARC_
Posted 18 February 2011 - 05:26 PM
#63
Posted 18 February 2011 - 06:51 PM
John, will do over the weekend OK.
#64
Posted 04 April 2011 - 12:19 PM
Anyway..... Welded in a new battery tray.
BEFORE:
PS_before.jpg 82.76K 20 downloads
AFTER:
SDC12291.jpg 91.43K 16 downloads
And the same panel on the opposite side.....
BEFORE:
DS_before.jpg 82.41K 11 downloads
AFTER:
SDC12293.jpg 102.39K 18 downloads
SDC12298.jpg 104.84K 11 downloads
Then I clamped and welded the radiator support back on.
SDC12300.jpg 90.84K 9 downloads
And spot welded aaaaallll the bits and pieces together.
SDC12302.jpg 107.12K 7 downloads
SDC12309.jpg 101.6K 5 downloads
The I rubbed it all back with some wet & dry.....
SDC12327.jpg 94.27K 7 downloads
And gave it a hit of PPG etch Primer.
SDC12335.jpg 102.25K 12 downloads
SDC12332.jpg 93.32K 8 downloads
And now I'm ready to leave it for another month... ... and then remove the subframe nd start stripping the underside and get the whole front end ready for paint. That's for another day......
#65 _Kush_
Posted 04 April 2011 - 12:31 PM
Is that a chassis number I spy? How'd you go about getting that put on there?
#66 _mick74lh_
Posted 04 April 2011 - 07:28 PM
#67 _nial8r_
Posted 05 April 2011 - 11:47 AM
#68
Posted 06 April 2011 - 10:01 AM
Rad support lined up really well with the chassis rails and inner skirt / battery tray, and I was pleased with my work ( of course ). The inner guards were a PITA however, as I think they were lower than their true position, which was probbaly a result of the front ender it must have had years ago. I got there though, and trial fitting of the front guards was perfect!
I had a panel beater repair the chassis number panel. All done legit. I didn't want to touch it myself!
#69
Posted 23 April 2011 - 08:30 PM
I wanted an HR block 253 that was cast as close as possible to that which is correct for my car. I had been told that about 3 months prior to compliance date is about right, but finding that would truly be a miracle. This one is an HR engine number block, cast in the same month and year as my SL/R. If you can't find the exact, that that will bloody well do me as "close enough"!!!
PIC.....
IMG_0757.JPG 133.46K 5 downloads
I've also started to strip the interior from my SL/R. All the dash and stuff is pretty straight forward.....
SDC12404.jpg 150.29K 3 downloads
However..... when it comes to wiring and auto-electrics, I panic and think OMFG what have I done. I guess i will worry more about this in years to come when I'm trying to refit it!!
SDC12403.jpg 157.35K 2 downloads
As always.. more to come. Bought some parts from a guy up north and I have to make a road trip to pick them up next weekend
#70 _nial8r_
Posted 24 April 2011 - 12:59 PM
this is what i need
and this is the left overs. theres enought to get 5 Torana's running lol
what the plans for the donk ?? just a freshen up or some go fast bits
#71
Posted 24 April 2011 - 01:40 PM
#72
Posted 14 May 2011 - 07:23 PM
With my engine bay repairs completed and suitably in etch primer until I'm ready to smooth it all out and prime, I felt it necessary to trial fit my front panels. I had been reading a LOT of members resto threads, and doing some research into panel alignment, and I started to get a bit worried about how mine would line up, given the nature of the repairs I had done so far.
My suspicions were true, and I soon found that the front apron didn't like the alignment of the aftermarket radiator support rust repair section. The bolt holes on the very bottom were not lining up too well. A little bit of adjusting soon got that right.
123.JPG 212.55K 8 downloads
Then I decided to hang the front guards. Both guards I had were the originals off the SL/R. Both were rusty and both had the lip rolled in a less than ideal manner. The drivers side guard had shocking panel alignment.... as you can see here...
129.JPG 195.25K 1 downloads
I decided to seek out replacement guards, and soon picked up something half decent off eBay for $50 ish. It looked OK. The lip hadn't been rolled and it only had minor rust in the usual place. An easy repair I thought. Previously I had wrecked a UC, and I wisely cut out the bottom of both front guards, as they were MINT. Here you can see the guard i bought and the decent bit off the UC.
150.JPG 212.85K 3 downloads
Next I maked out the section I wanted to remove from the new guard, and the same from the UC guard. Chop chop and oh oh....
151.JPG 219.78K 1 downloads
The next pic shows the 2 sections of front guard that I had removed. On the top is the UC guard. It was IMMACULATE on the outside, with a little rust on the rear. Below it is the new eBay guard section, rooted on the outside and starting to be on the inside too.
Here is a closer view of the "GOOD" guard section. Despite the corrosion you can see there, this piece of guard is excellent! So from here I had a plan..... to take the best bits from both sections of front guard, and make one totally good section of guard.
So I cut "a piece from here and a piece from there" (a quote from Mad Max)... and this is what I was wanting to achieve....
And this is it.... perfecto!!!!
So I lined up the replacement section with the existing guard, and ......
Welded it in place, obviously!
And while you may think that this is a huge weld with a bit of guard attached, when I trilal fitted it to my SL/R, with front apron, it was SO DAMN PERFECT that I had to crack a beer, sit back and go.... "FWOOORRRRRR!!!"
That'll do me for now..... more to come, when I can be assed! ;-)
Edited by notna, 14 May 2011 - 07:33 PM.
#73 _nial8r_
Posted 14 May 2011 - 07:47 PM
i had a go today on all the pissy little rust holes ( i hate them kind of repairs ) inside the door shuts and to my disbelief i had it knocked over by 1pm from a a 9am start and even with 2K etch back over the repairs i pretty friggin worried when it comes time to put my supprot back on that nothing is going to line up. maybe thats why im avoiding it
#74
Posted 14 May 2011 - 07:53 PM
I didn't get around to dressing my welds. My neighbours HATE me... I do all this shit on the front driveway, and it echo's accross the road badly!
#75 _sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 14 May 2011 - 07:58 PM
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