Would it be suggested that I Loctite these bolts and torque to spec? Or is that a bad idea???
Flywheel bolts
Started by
hanra
, Jul 13 2012 08:50 PM
80 replies to this topic
#1
hanra
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Posted 13 July 2012 - 08:50 PM
#2
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 13 July 2012 - 08:51 PM
Just torque should be fine.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#3
_ljxu1torana_
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Posted 13 July 2012 - 10:31 PM
defently use loctite on the flywheel bolts.Would it be suggested that I Loctite these bolts and torque to spec? Or is that a bad idea???
#4
UCgazman
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Posted 13 July 2012 - 10:56 PM
Loctite couldn't hurt, it sucks if they vibrate loose....
#5
warrenm
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 08:03 AM
Loctite them.
#6
_PeteXU1_
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 07:36 PM
I torque all the bolts up to spec then back them out one by one and loctite them.
#7
_Yella Fella_
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 07:55 PM
Should not reuse flywheel bolts. Use new bolts.
#8
_PeteXU1_
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 09:27 PM
Never heard of having to use new flywheel
bolts every time?
bolts every time?
#9
_ljxu1torana_
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 10:04 PM
why did you tighten up the flywheel bolts then took them out,then put loctite on them.it does not make any sense to me.I torque all the bolts up to spec then back them out one by one and loctite them.
#10
_PeteXU1_
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 10:23 PM
The idea is to pull the flywheel up against the crank flange and make it as easy as possible to tighten the bolts with the loctite on them. Loctite starts to go off under pressure and can give an inaccurate torque reading.
When I say one by one, I mean after they are all tight, only take out one at a time to apply loctite and re-torque.
Can't remember where I learnt this from...
When I say one by one, I mean after they are all tight, only take out one at a time to apply loctite and re-torque.
Can't remember where I learnt this from...
Edited by PeteXU1, 14 July 2012 - 10:26 PM.
#11
rodomo
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 10:53 PM
Another fred. Posts #25 & #26
http://www.gmh-toran...knocking-noise/
http://www.gmh-toran...knocking-noise/
Edited by rodomo, 14 July 2012 - 10:55 PM.
#12
gassd6
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Posted 14 July 2012 - 10:59 PM
i use to loctite mine but would always come loose after awhile, i was told by a 20+ year GMH mechanic not to use it as it acts as a lubricant when it heats up. he told me it was never use from factory so it doesnt need any. i brake cleaned the crank threads ran a tap to clean an up new bolts in dry torq up and they never came loose again.
#13
Redslur
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Posted 15 July 2012 - 06:30 PM
I have always been a fan of using loctite on flywheel bolts. Never let me down! My engines always get driven hard (6500rpm) and never had a problem.
#14
Rob2408
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Posted 15 July 2012 - 08:13 PM
My understanding is that bonding,sealant or lubricant type products can allow the bolt to be over-tensioned, even when using torque wrenches and prescribed tensioning sequences. Over-tensioning may result in the bolt stretching and then potentially coming loose.
It is common for OEM manuals to state that the reuse of bolts is not permitted, particularly when bonding, sealant or lubricant type products are used in the assembly process.
It is common for OEM manuals to state that the reuse of bolts is not permitted, particularly when bonding, sealant or lubricant type products are used in the assembly process.
#15
_PeteXU1_
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 05:20 PM
As an example, It's a bit tough with the old Holden 6 to use new bolts every time anyway.. They are not available new and whilst the ARP bolts to suit BMC fit, they are near useless - have you seen how small the head clamping area is on the bolt?
I was using the BMC bolts when my flywheel came loose.
I was using the BMC bolts when my flywheel came loose.
#16
greens nice
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 06:19 PM
As an example, It's a bit tough with the old Holden 6 to use new bolts every time anyway.. They are not available new and whilst the ARP bolts to suit BMC fit, they are near useless - have you seen how small the head clamping area is on the bolt?
I was using the BMC bolts when my flywheel came loose.
drill the crank flange to 7/16 unf, and use '351 Nascar' ARP bolts, direct fit, no shortening and cost $25-30 bucks to replace them.
#17
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 06:45 PM
I looked at that, doesnt look like it would leave much material around the ooutside of the flange??
Cheers.
Cheers.
#18
_tryhard_
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:00 PM
I've never had one come loose but with my last motor everyone told me to use 350 chevy ones & I have stuffed a crank up stripped the threads out of 2 holes. I always use blue loctite I rev it hard from 3000 to 7800 rpm speedway motor 230 hp at wheels I won't use bigger bolts again I'll stick with the standard ones & tourqe them t0 55 foot lb with loctite. 30 years and no trouble I always tighten all the bolts then loosen them 1 at a time fit loctite and then tension up
#19
_Mint_
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:16 PM
personally i wouldnt loctite them..but i would replace them with ARP flywheel bolts...GMH stock bolt rated at 60,000psi..ARP bolts rated at 180.000 psi !!!
#20
_PeteXU1_
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:36 PM
drill the crank flange to 7/16 unf, and use '351 Nascar' ARP bolts, direct fit, no shortening and cost $25-30 bucks to replace them.
Done, done and done, although I'm still not convinced new bolts are needed every single time. How many times have the standard bolts been used, reused and reused again ? At $30, though, they are cheap enough for piece of mind.
#21
greens nice
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:53 PM
I looked at that, doesnt look like it would leave much material around the ooutside of the flange??
Cheers.
still shitloads mate.
the crank in my car has 2 flywheel holes HELICOILED to 7/16.
some numpty stripped a thread and retapped it in a witworth thread
flywheel has never loosened on my car.
#22
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:56 PM
Cool, i'll investimagate this further.
I assume i'll get shouted at using a hand drill and tap
Cheers.
I assume i'll get shouted at using a hand drill and tap
Cheers.
#23
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 09:43 AM
I think the thing people are missing here is the condition of the original bolts.
There is a difference between a good condition bolt and a poor condition bolt.
Get a thread gauge and measure the threads stretch. If the bolt it overly stretched, turf it.
If the bolts all measure up OK (i.e. very little stretch) then I say re-use them.
I'm running standard flywheel bolts on explosion proof flywheels in both my orange LJ and the purple track car (both spun 6000+)
The ARP bolts that suit standard threads are useless. They may have an excellent resistance, but the heads just dont have the surface area to ensure they "lock" when done up IMO.
There is a difference between a good condition bolt and a poor condition bolt.
Get a thread gauge and measure the threads stretch. If the bolt it overly stretched, turf it.
If the bolts all measure up OK (i.e. very little stretch) then I say re-use them.
I'm running standard flywheel bolts on explosion proof flywheels in both my orange LJ and the purple track car (both spun 6000+)
The ARP bolts that suit standard threads are useless. They may have an excellent resistance, but the heads just dont have the surface area to ensure they "lock" when done up IMO.
#24
warrenm
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 09:50 AM
I'm another using 7/16" ARP bolts, & they are used more than once.
#25
_Ken_
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Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:27 AM
I always put all bolts in and pull them up firm .Then I remove one bolt place loctite on it place it back in and torque the bolt up . Then I remove bolt from the oppostie side to bolt just done and do the same. I use a loctite that has a heat resistance can't remember number . The reason I pull bolts firm , is so no loctite can run between fly wheel and crank .I've always done this and never had a flywheel come loose yet .
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