The wife recently got defected in her FJ40.
The truck is way too good to scrap so I'm having a crack at fixing it.
I've never done rust repair or pannel beating so I figured working on a truck which resembles more of a brick than a car would be a good learning project.
here is a couple of Vid's of the old girl on my recent camping trip doing the Vic/ SA boarder track.
Ghetto FJ40 Rust Repair
Started by
_Inj gtr202_
, Oct 05 2012 12:14 PM
78 replies to this topic
#2
_Inj gtr202_
_Inj gtr202_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 12:20 PM
The reason this topic is named "Ghetto" rust repair is because I have no shed and only 1 space for off-street parking.
So as you could imagin there is crap everywhere in my yard.
here are some pic's.
So as you could imagin there is crap everywhere in my yard.
here are some pic's.
#4
_Inj gtr202_
_Inj gtr202_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 12:27 PM
Now for the fun bit...
Pretty happy about it all as you can see
Pretty happy about it all as you can see
#5
_Inj gtr202_
_Inj gtr202_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 12:33 PM
My plan is to grind and clean as much as I can from the chassis rails and brace over the top with some heavy steel.
Clean and paint all the suspension brakets which where riveted on
Is powder coating a worth while thing to do on all the parts I can remove and replace? or is a product like POR15 a better way to go for all the parts..
Clean and paint all the suspension brakets which where riveted on
Is powder coating a worth while thing to do on all the parts I can remove and replace? or is a product like POR15 a better way to go for all the parts..
Edited by Inj gtr202, 05 October 2012 - 12:34 PM.
#6
yel327
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 01:21 PM
Hmmm. I'd have scrapped it with chassis rust like that! I've had a few of these old girls . My favourite was a 1974 which is a bit of a hybrid: with 4spd and 2F engine but had the old column, doors, blinkers, diffs etc. Sort of a transition model. It had a 327 Chev in it and used to wheelstand without any dramas!
I'd seriously consider finding another chassis though, that one is buggered!
I'd seriously consider finding another chassis though, that one is buggered!
#7
_Hamster_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 01:40 PM
Love the old cruisers, wanted to get one but to much hassel for me at this point in time. Plus the torana needs to be done first!
Goodluck ill be watching this one
Goodluck ill be watching this one
#8
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 07:18 PM
meh...drink more beer cans.....the bonus is you can use the empties as rust repair panels 
#9
_Inj gtr202_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 07:39 PM
Hmmm. I'd have scrapped it with chassis rust like that! I've had a few of these old girls . My favourite was a 1974 which is a bit of a hybrid: with 4spd and 2F engine but had the old column, doors, blinkers, diffs etc. Sort of a transition model. It had a 327 Chev in it and used to wheelstand without any dramas!
I'd seriously consider finding another chassis though, that one is buggered!
I like this model cos it has the split transfer case and front disc brakes.
The chassis rust I have taken pics of is the only place I can find any... so I think it's worth the effort, just gotta hope the inspection people like my repairs.
Gonna get stuck in with the de-greaser and scrubbing brush next week.
#10
_Inj gtr202_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 07:41 PM
what are peoples oppinion as far as powder coating??? just a bit of wank? or is it good stuff for rust prevention and will last forever?
anything that comes off I want to go back on bullet proof
anything that comes off I want to go back on bullet proof
#12
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 08:03 PM
just kbds or po15 itwhat are peoples oppinion as far as powder coating??? just a bit of wank? or is it good stuff for rust prevention and will last forever?
anything that comes off I want to go back on bullet proof
powder coating can crack and expose metal from what i read
#13
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 08:21 PM
I may be able to help re protective coatings being my thing hehe.
Powder coating is the absolute worst thing you could possibly use for this application, besides perhaps bare steel that you have urinated on....Would be about in the same ballpark.
Ultimate: Brush a 2k epoxy mastic coating over it. Something like Protec Barrier EMH-375 would be ideal. Suitable for salt water immersion if the substrate is abrasive blasted to AS 3, but a basic wire wheel job and slap it over it will never move. Two coats lasts under the foot of a drill rig getting constantly blasted with mud/grit at 500-2000psi for over 12 months so im happy with the product.
I havnt actually used the KBS/POR-15 products myself, so cant treally rate them. I DO intend to get sample pots of both, and paint up a few little panels, plus a few other panels with some of my more usual products i use (like the EMH-375 above) and abuse the shit out of them over a 12 month period or so and post the results, but dont hold your breath.
Somethting else to consider would be a good 2k epoxy primer with either an epoxy or polyurethane top coat. Similar prep to the EMH, again shouldnt ever move. Polyurethane is prettyer but will chip a bit easyer, but the correct products are still suitable to salt water immersion etc.
Just for the record, by salt water immersion i dont mean a quick beach run, i mean the bottom of cargo ship hulls or the legs of an offshore drilling rig lol, so will be more than ample for your situation.
Ghetto method would be an Alklyde resin single pack primer with an industrial enamel over it, probably the cheapest/easyest method as you can legally and safely spray such products with minimal protective equipment and will still hold up REALLY well with minimal prep (wire wheel)
Cheers.
Powder coating is the absolute worst thing you could possibly use for this application, besides perhaps bare steel that you have urinated on....Would be about in the same ballpark.
Ultimate: Brush a 2k epoxy mastic coating over it. Something like Protec Barrier EMH-375 would be ideal. Suitable for salt water immersion if the substrate is abrasive blasted to AS 3, but a basic wire wheel job and slap it over it will never move. Two coats lasts under the foot of a drill rig getting constantly blasted with mud/grit at 500-2000psi for over 12 months so im happy with the product.
I havnt actually used the KBS/POR-15 products myself, so cant treally rate them. I DO intend to get sample pots of both, and paint up a few little panels, plus a few other panels with some of my more usual products i use (like the EMH-375 above) and abuse the shit out of them over a 12 month period or so and post the results, but dont hold your breath.
Somethting else to consider would be a good 2k epoxy primer with either an epoxy or polyurethane top coat. Similar prep to the EMH, again shouldnt ever move. Polyurethane is prettyer but will chip a bit easyer, but the correct products are still suitable to salt water immersion etc.
Just for the record, by salt water immersion i dont mean a quick beach run, i mean the bottom of cargo ship hulls or the legs of an offshore drilling rig lol, so will be more than ample for your situation.
Ghetto method would be an Alklyde resin single pack primer with an industrial enamel over it, probably the cheapest/easyest method as you can legally and safely spray such products with minimal protective equipment and will still hold up REALLY well with minimal prep (wire wheel)
Cheers.
#14
limo
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 08:59 PM
take a full pictorial record of before, during and after repairs, before painting
I have found it easier to get the defect removed for rust repair
inspectors also have a habit of scraping off paint to check the metal underneath, happened to me couple of times when I didn't have the pics
also I have taken cars in for check before painting
I have found it easier to get the defect removed for rust repair
inspectors also have a habit of scraping off paint to check the metal underneath, happened to me couple of times when I didn't have the pics
also I have taken cars in for check before painting
#15
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 09:03 PM
If he follows my advice re paint the inspector is going to need more than a screw driver to remove the paint......An oxy might do it
Cheers.
Cheers.
#16
limo
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 09:14 PM
yeah I had an inspector take a screw driver to a stretch limo to check the repair along a seem where the paint had cracked
held my breath and said yes sir it has been fixed
held my breath and said yes sir it has been fixed
#17
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 09:18 PM
I can understand why they would do that, after all its easy enough to bog a hole and flick some pressure pack black over it.
So yeah, i agree taking picks along the way is a great idea.
Cheers.
So yeah, i agree taking picks along the way is a great idea.
Cheers.
#18
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 10:23 PM
good old tar(the black shit) will work too
it's a bitch to remove (took me six months out of the game to rid my hands totally of that shit lol) and it don't mix with white bathrooms/doors
but as i suggested earlier....just weld it fish oil it have it inspected then add your "protective" coating
it's a bitch to remove (took me six months out of the game to rid my hands totally of that shit lol) and it don't mix with white bathrooms/doors
but as i suggested earlier....just weld it fish oil it have it inspected then add your "protective" coating
#19
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 10:26 PM
Tar based epoxies are no longer legal in australia sadly due to the government being frOckwits.
Hence i swapped to mastics, luckily the mastics seem to be working better.
Cheers.
Hence i swapped to mastics, luckily the mastics seem to be working better.
Cheers.
#20
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 October 2012 - 10:37 PM
wtf?....Tar based epoxies are no longer legal in australia sadly due to the government being frOckwits.
Hence i swapped to mastics, luckily the mastics seem to be working better.
Cheers.
guess i should use this 10 litres i got left wisely then
#21
_Inj gtr202_
_Inj gtr202_
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Posted 06 October 2012 - 10:36 AM
I may be able to help re protective coatings being my thing hehe.
Powder coating is the absolute worst thing you could possibly use for this application, besides perhaps bare steel that you have urinated on....Would be about in the same ballpark.
Ultimate: Brush a 2k epoxy mastic coating over it. Something like Protec Barrier EMH-375 would be ideal. Suitable for salt water immersion if the substrate is abrasive blasted to AS 3, but a basic wire wheel job and slap it over it will never move. Two coats lasts under the foot of a drill rig getting constantly blasted with mud/grit at 500-2000psi for over 12 months so im happy with the product.
I havnt actually used the KBS/POR-15 products myself, so cant treally rate them. I DO intend to get sample pots of both, and paint up a few little panels, plus a few other panels with some of my more usual products i use (like the EMH-375 above) and abuse the shit out of them over a 12 month period or so and post the results, but dont hold your breath.
Somethting else to consider would be a good 2k epoxy primer with either an epoxy or polyurethane top coat. Similar prep to the EMH, again shouldnt ever move. Polyurethane is prettyer but will chip a bit easyer, but the correct products are still suitable to salt water immersion etc.
Just for the record, by salt water immersion i dont mean a quick beach run, i mean the bottom of cargo ship hulls or the legs of an offshore drilling rig lol, so will be more than ample for your situation.
Ghetto method would be an Alklyde resin single pack primer with an industrial enamel over it, probably the cheapest/easyest method as you can legally and safely spray such products with minimal protective equipment and will still hold up REALLY well with minimal prep (wire wheel)
Cheers.
Thanks Bomber,
Here is what the Paint shop has recomened for the Boby, 2K primer ( acrylic urethane primer) then going to paint acryilic on top.
For the chassis where can I get the stuff you suggested? (Protec Barrier EMH-375) putting it on with a brush seems much more practical to me as I'll be doing it laying on the brick pavers.
loving the advise and suggestions guy's keep em coming...
I'm about to start scrubbing 30years worth of shyte from the underbody... (and drink a westy or 2
)
Edited by Inj gtr202, 06 October 2012 - 10:39 AM.
#22
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 06 October 2012 - 07:18 PM
Its very very strange that they suggested you use a urethane primer directly over the bare steel..........I would be inclined to go epoxy-urethane-top coat, urethanes arnt really designed for use directly over bare steel.
As for where to buy the pootech, well, your in Adelaide, its made in Adelaide
. Go straight to the factory. I was there a few years ago for a training seminar and visited it, #@$^%& if i know where it is though, was drunk 99% of the time, we were staying at Larges Peir or some suburb like that and it was bout a 10 minute drive to the factory??
Cheers.
As for where to buy the pootech, well, your in Adelaide, its made in Adelaide
. Go straight to the factory. I was there a few years ago for a training seminar and visited it, #@$^%& if i know where it is though, was drunk 99% of the time, we were staying at Larges Peir or some suburb like that and it was bout a 10 minute drive to the factory??Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 06 October 2012 - 07:19 PM.
#23
_Inj gtr202_
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Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:34 AM
Its very very strange that they suggested you use a urethane primer directly over the bare steel..........I would be inclined to go epoxy-urethane-top coat, urethanes arnt really designed for use directly over bare steel.
As for where to buy the pootech, well, your in Adelaide, its made in Adelaide
Cheers.
Didn't happen to be around March (about 4-5 years ago) when you did the training course did it??? I was walking the dog wearing a Torana T-Shirt and some drunk dudes stopped me as I walked past the Peir for a chat (I live near by).... One of em had "when your hot your hot" or "Torana the Great" tattoed on his arm.... would be hell random if you where one of the guy's with him.
I went to the PPG supplier (CARE). Told them what I was doing and that is the stuff they gave me... I was assured that it will be a hard undercoat and I can put on whatever top coat I like.
Protec is at Gillman (very close to me) I'll check em out on Monday.
cheers
Edited by Inj gtr202, 07 October 2012 - 10:43 AM.
#24
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 07 October 2012 - 12:18 PM
Mate im the guy with the when your hot your hot tattoo on my arm.
Now that is frOcking random.l
Cheers.
Now that is frOcking random.l
Cheers.
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