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Ghetto FJ40 Rust Repair

Started by _Inj gtr202_ , Oct 05 2012 12:14 PM

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78 replies to this topic

#51 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 03:42 PM

So after that little set back I eventually got to paint the chassis.

Posted Image

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#52 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 03:47 PM

I then tried my luck with the first bit of sheet metal replacement.
I decided to start with the body mount brackets, as both sides where stuffed.

Also my first go using gasless mig wire, man I have a millon burns from the splatter!!!

Posted Image

Edited by Inj gtr202, 29 November 2012 - 03:49 PM.

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#53 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 09:21 AM

Also a quick question regarding the paint.
I purchased a cheap can of rattle can etch primer to put straight over the bare metal after I do my welding and panel repairs.
Will I now have to go back and rub it off before I throw the proper primer on?
The Primer I'm using can be seen on the first page of this thread.
cheers

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#54 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 09:40 AM

Yes.

Should wipe off with thinners.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 30 November 2012 - 09:42 AM.

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#55 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 09:52 AM

Yes.

Should wipe off with thinners.

cheers

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#56 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 04:51 PM

Done a bit of work.
Rear Sil panel was cactus.

Posted Image

So I used what I could off the old one to trace a template for the new one.

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#57 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 04:53 PM

Welded the 2 round bits to a big square bit and trial fitted it.

Posted Image

Seemed to be ok so I cut a new bit of floor panel and welded them together.

Posted Image

This project is taking way longer than expected.
I had no idea how much rust was in this old hulk.
Guess I'm way past the point of no return so it's either Git r done or cut my losses and dispose of it.

Edited by Inj gtr202, 02 February 2013 - 04:56 PM.

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#58 _Agent 34_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 05:26 PM

that's some serious repairs - it must have been driven through the salt water.

u seem pretty handy with the welder and metal fabrication part through.

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#59 _Hamster_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 05:32 PM

been waiting for an update!

Looks good, i would keep it myself, nothing beats an old landcruiser. Once you've fixed it all up it will prob last 100 years or more!

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#60 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 08:27 PM

that's some serious repairs - it must have been driven through the salt water.

u seem pretty handy with the welder and metal fabrication part through.

I'm guessing the previous owners never cleaned it after they went off road. The chassis rails where full of mud and crap and anywhere where water can penetrate and sit was/ is completely rooted.

I'm not bad with the heavy stuff, but you might say I will be best mates with body filler by the time I'm done with the external (visual) panels.

been waiting for an update!

Looks good, i would keep it myself, nothing beats an old landcruiser. Once you've fixed it all up it will prob last 100 years or more!

The wife loves em, so once it's all fixed I dare say we will keep it. How long the rust stays away is anyones guess, I literally have no idea when it comes to painting etc..

Edited by Inj gtr202, 02 February 2013 - 08:27 PM.

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#61 Heath

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:27 PM

Doing a very nice job mate. Glad my 40 doesn't have these problems!

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#62 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 07:01 PM

Doing a very nice job mate. Glad my 40 doesn't have these problems!

They are definitely more fun to drive than they are to fix.

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#63 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:54 AM

Different colour and diesel.
I'll be happy if mine turn out like this one

http://www.ebay.com....=item4170857022

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#64 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 03:23 PM

Does this count as progress?

Figured this thing ain't going anywhere in the near future and I'm sick of being so dependent on the weather to work on it.

The rear floor is proving to be a major hurdle. The wreckers want $150 just for a small cut out of another wrecked 40.

I'm getting quotes for a whole rear tub assy, If the price comes back anything sensible I'll be ditching this rusted out p.o.s for a new tub.

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#65 yel327

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 03:42 PM

They are definitely more fun to drive than they are to fix.

Geez, I'm not sure about that! My old 1974 FJ40 was a beast, but fun to drive is not how i'd describe it! It was basically a stock FJ40 with 327 Chev and 15x8 rims with 11R15 tyres. Used to wheelstand in 1st and would run off the speedo on sand. It was very good offroad, used to make Hiluxes, most other 'cruisers and Pajeros etc look silly but most of it was because it had bulk torque and power and was a SWB.

But, 4 wheel drum brakes, manual steering, clunky old 4spd, no A/C and the fact you cannot get comfy seats into them due to the space between the fuel tank and the steering wheel make them pretty agricultural. After driving later stuff I think I'd be going for a GQ/GU ute with an LS1 or 2 in it or if you want a SWB a shorty GQ or Maverick with a V8. Ride on coil spring comfort, power steer, air, front discs, much better seating etc. I think i'm getting old!

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#66 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 07:50 PM

But if you purchased a Nissan you would be a homo.

Toyota is a much better option

80 series, or if you want SWB a Bundera.

Cheers.

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#67 _imj411_

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 08:08 PM

I scored a fj70 Shorty for $300 not a Bundy its a real Landcruiser the bundys had Hilux drivelines, it needs some love that's for sure heaps of rust. My dad does not think it is that bad and is worth fixing, cheers Aaron.

Edited by imj411, 22 March 2013 - 08:14 PM.

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#68 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 08:28 PM

Leaf or coil?

Reason i mentioned bundy is cause it runs coils all round and 80 series diffs bolt in....

Cheers.

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#69 _imj411_

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 08:45 PM

Leaf unfortunately, so the Bundys have a benefit, damit, cheers Aaron.

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#70 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 09:00 PM

Yep, and move around nicely if the trails i was going through in one this arvy have anything to say....Some shit you wouldnt take a D9 Bulldoser through this think walked through without even clicking the lockers in...

Edited by Bomber Watson, 22 March 2013 - 09:01 PM.

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#71 _Lamo_

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 10:59 PM

Leaf or coil?

Reason i mentioned bundy is cause it runs coils all round and 80 series diffs bolt in....

Cheers.

80# diff do not just bolt in Bomber. The spring mounts are wider. I have a Bundera and a 40 sitting in the back yard. I was temped to graft the 40 body onto the Bundera frame.

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#72 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 07:09 AM

Geez, I'm not sure about that! My old 1974 FJ40 was a beast, but fun to drive is not how i'd describe it! It was basically a stock FJ40 with 327 Chev and 15x8 rims with 11R15 tyres. Used to wheelstand in 1st and would run off the speedo on sand. It was very good offroad, used to make Hiluxes, most other 'cruisers and Pajeros etc look silly but most of it was because it had bulk torque and power and was a SWB.

But, 4 wheel drum brakes, manual steering, clunky old 4spd, no A/C and the fact you cannot get comfy seats into them due to the space between the fuel tank and the steering wheel make them pretty agricultural. After driving later stuff I think I'd be going for a GQ/GU ute with an LS1 or 2 in it or if you want a SWB a shorty GQ or Maverick with a V8. Ride on coil spring comfort, power steer, air, front discs, much better seating etc. I think i'm getting old!

This is a 1982 model so it has front discs, under floor fuel tank (so it has comfy seats) split transfer case etc.. It's basically a 60 series with a 40 body...... rusted 40 body.

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#73 yel327

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 08:05 AM

You are laughing then! Only hassle is it is harder to get a Chev Engineered, so a blue 308 stroked to 350 or an injected Holden 350 is the way to go!

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#74 yel327

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 08:12 AM

But if you purchased a Nissan you would be a homo.

Toyota is a much better option

80 series, or if you want SWB a Bundera.

Cheers.

I almost bought a Nissan GU ute when I bought my Hilux 2 years ago, they were virtually giving them away. It was about $37k+gst or thereabouts for a brand new ST coil cab (I was looking at a leaf sprung back end one though) with steel tray, drive away. Problem was the boat anchor 4cyl diesel and manual box were to be immediately scrapped, and an LS1or2 and 4L80E conversion to go straight in. But it was still close to $25k with me doing all the spanner work for the conversion, so just not worth it. Made it as dear as a D4D V8 'cruiser, which itself was everything I wanted except it was diesel :-(. So I bought the next best thing, a V6 Hilux SR5.