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LS2 Hatch build

Started by _LS2 Hatch_ , Oct 06 2012 07:57 PM

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389 replies to this topic

#201 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 04:02 PM

Thanks SmartE, wheels are really becoming an issue to me at the moment. I will put the Momo's back on later this week for now, then change in good time.

By the way, I read your build the other day, that's one tough looking car! Hopefully it's almost there too

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#202 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 05:29 PM

Holy shit.

How did I not notice you've shaved the handles. LOVE IT!!

Looks all gangsta with the stockies too :ph34r:

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#203 hawk

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Name:steve
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Posted 20 August 2013 - 11:20 PM

Looks great what shocks and springs are you running it sits perfect.

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#204 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 07:04 PM

I have been copying a certain other Torana thread idea.
Thoughts??? Did they get any better?
No need to tell me the masking was crap, it's not meant to be final, but you get the drift.
(Thanks for the idea Jeff)

image.jpg 110.54K 8 downloads

image.jpg 96.71K 7 downloads

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#205 _greenmachine215_

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 08:04 PM

Bit slack on the choice of colours bloke!
where's the hyper green, pink, and orange options....

Keep them silver, they look a bit backyarder with the black unlesssss you polished the rims then done the black spokes?

Edited by greenmachine215, 22 August 2013 - 08:06 PM.

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#206 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 08:27 PM

Sorry Marc, ran out of magenta paint

Thanks for heads up. The last thing I want to do is make it looked half assed.
My wife still says go buy some others, but I want to wait until bubs is born before blowing too much more coin on it

How did you go with your diff?

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#207 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 08:39 PM

By the way. My tacho is reading exactly half the revs it should. It's an autometre gauge . Does anyone know what my issue is and how to rectify it? The loops on the back are still in tact and not cut as you would for a 6 or 4 cylinder. I was told they come to suit 8 cylinders and wouldn't need calibrating.
Help

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#208 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 08:46 PM

That car is so sexy.

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#209 _greenmachine215_

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:26 PM

My wife still says go buy some others

Sounds like you got a wife most blokes would want! If she says go buy wheels, mate you don't question it! Go and get a set.
Lets face it babies don't need much for entertainment, I had a handful of hundreds and thousands chucked on the tray of my high chair as a kid!

Weld magnums with black centres!

Can't wait to see it with a new set of rims, and tell the wife she's a bloody champion!

Edited by greenmachine215, 22 August 2013 - 11:29 PM.

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#210 BIG KEV

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Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:46 PM

Flares are like wings ....lol

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#211 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:20 AM

I have been copying a certain other Torana thread idea.
Thoughts??? Did they get any better?
No need to tell me the masking was crap, it's not meant to be final, but you get the drift.
(Thanks for the idea Jeff)

image.jpg

image.jpg

Glad my idea worked for someone else

As for if they got any better....wellllllllll......lol.. I still prefer a more billet-type wheel, but guess the darker center does help a tad at least?

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#212 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:26 AM

By the way. My tacho is reading exactly half the revs it should. It's an autometre gauge . Does anyone know what my issue is and how to rectify it? The loops on the back are still in tact and not cut as you would for a 6 or 4 cylinder. I was told they come to suit 8 cylinders and wouldn't need calibrating.
Help

Remember that the tach signal out of the PCM for the LS is like a 4 cylinder output basically, so your tach might need to be set for that..

(At least it is on an LS1)

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#213 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 06:14 AM

So your suggestion is to cut both loop wires and set for 4 cylinder? If I do this and it doesn't work, can I just rejoin them? I don't want to stuff it completely

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#214 orangeLJ

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 07:03 AM

I like it!

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#215 _mumbo_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 07:24 AM

You need a tach adapter both MSD and Autometer make them because you have multi coils

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#216 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 07:29 AM

No, you should not need a tach adapter...

And yes, you could always solder the little wires back together if you needed too.

I did a quick look on google and found this too about possible weak signal out of the PCM to run an aftermarket tacho..

http://www.lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm

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#217 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 07:55 AM

that link says to set it to 4 cylinder mode, which means cut the wire loops on the rear.

I might call my auto elec and Eagle Performance where I bought the tacho from and see what both have to say.

Thanks for the link Jeff.

Mumbo, did you use the adapter on yours? Did you try to set to 4 cylinder first?

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#218 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 08:13 AM

Yep.... I knew about the 4 cylinder output issue before...came across it when I was trying to get my factory tacho to work, along with my aeromotive fuel pump controller.

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#219 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 09:02 AM

so did you just set to 4 cylinder Jeff, or did you put the resitor in as instructed in the link?

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#220 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 09:12 AM

I set the cluster to 4 cylinder and away I went. (and it needs to be on 4cyl no matter what, the resister and 12 volt supply is to boost the signal from how I take it)

I do use a dakota digital tach adapter, but to run my fuel pump, not the tach..it has a few adjustable outputs, one of which is a 'through' signal basically which passes the input signal out in the same form it enters ,and have that running my tach. one of the outputs I have switched to 8 cylinder mode so to speak, and use that to run the pump controller. I have tried it directly from the PCM to the tacho too and that worked as well. (but didn't leave it that way...trying to keep things neat and not have wires splitting leaving the PCM and going two places. Instead I have the one wire comnig out going right to the dakota box, then the outputs from it go to where they need to)

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#221 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 11:27 AM

If the tacho is reading steady but only registering half the rpm then the only problem you have is the wrong signal count as Jeff said. The 4, 6 and 8 options just tell the tacho how many pulses there are to one rpm.

The pull up or pull down resistor is only required if the tacho is erratic or not receiving a signal at all.

When I connected my VDO tacho to the LS2 ECU it did nothing as the voltage of the tacho signal was too low for the VDO tacho to register the pulse. I added a resistor connected to a 12v source to the circuit to boost (pull up) the voltage of the tacho signal high enough for the VDO tacho to see.

For example if the tacho signal wire outputs a pulse on 2v and your tacho requires a pulse in the range of 3v to 6v then you use a resistor that allows 1v or more to flow into the tacho signal from the 12v source.

If the signal voltage was too high then you would put a resistor between the tacho signal wire and the tacho to reduce (pull down) the voltage.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 23 August 2013 - 11:39 AM.

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#222 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:43 PM

Thanks for the in put guys. I have spoken to my auto elec and he has told me just to convert to 4 cylinder as most of you had said. My tacho dosen't have loop wires so I just need to go to the autometre web site and find out how to do it. The auto elec seemed to think it may have to be done by the engine tune guy with his lap top.

I will check it out latter and let you know my out come.

Thanks to all once again.

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#223 stevemc32

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 04:09 PM

My AutoMeter tacho has a set of dip switches just inside the cover for the lighting and a little sticker indicating where the switches should be set for 4 6 or 8 cylinders. If yours is similar I can get a photo of the sticker if you need it.

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#224 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 23 August 2013 - 04:16 PM

Ok, I have now read the calibration instructions that came with the gauge (didn't realse I had them). I just have to remove a plastic cap and move a switch as it describes. I also have read the "service operations manual" for the computer. Andy York remarks were 100% accurate. It reads, and I quote

" this is a 2 pulse/rev output which may correspond to a 4-cylinder setup in some tachometer or transmission controllers. Note the signal is a low voltage square wave, some tachometers or transmission controllers may need a pull-up resister to read the signal. This detail is left to the user, however the following circuit has worked with numerous devices- the resistor value may need to be changed if your device does not read this output properly."

As my gauge is not erratic, I should just need to flck the switches. I will do that this weekend and test next week when I get my radiator back.

One more time, thanks to all for yor help. Maybe this will be usefull to others also

Thanks Steve, looks like they are the same, and I now have it sused. Cheers

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#225 WA1TNC

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Car:HX ute(daily) LH Torana(Harrop Blown LS1) in the build
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Posted 24 August 2013 - 05:41 PM

Yep, I had watched or read something ages ago about this & when I fitted mine I saw the little switch & I somehow remembered to throw it on 4cyl mode & away she went.

Cheers Nig.