
#26
Posted 23 November 2012 - 06:33 PM
how do I connect them in? been told I have to use electric on second axle but when I asked RTA guy he couldn't say
can I use disk on 1 and drum on the other or both disk/drum
might have to talk to local engineer
I am going to use Torana master cyl and booster, the Bedford master is only 3/4"
#27
Posted 23 November 2012 - 06:40 PM
the front

the back

so turned it into a soft top

no going to repair the sections under the roof and the roof then put it back on,
#28
Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:44 PM


but not that easy as you would expect

once I had cut the rust out, 3 pieces over welded
so 1

2

3

then treat with metal conditioner and etch primer

will think about the roof for a while
#29
Posted 04 December 2012 - 08:55 PM




viewed from inside and out
found a bit more to fix, easier

cut bit off the chassis ready for extension
about a 100 kgms and tow hitch hanging off bit of 2 mm plate with 8 tack welds holding it to chassis
it's wonder it held with the stuff I used to tow

#30
Posted 13 December 2012 - 08:23 PM
has been ground back and coated with metal conditioner ready to etch prime

repaired the roof frame by plating over the original after cleaning back to metal, plus few holes when rust removed
full chassis vehicle so roof strength not critical
front right

front left

back right

back left

back top left, cut out and replaced

#31
Posted 13 December 2012 - 08:30 PM
#32
Posted 14 December 2012 - 08:35 AM
Edited by yel327, 14 December 2012 - 08:35 AM.
#33
Posted 14 December 2012 - 10:55 AM
I think I would be sourcing another turret and either unpick the skin and plugweld it back on or cut and join it through the pillars.
#34
Posted 14 December 2012 - 07:56 PM
You've made a difficult job harder by cutting the roof off with a grinder instead of drilling out the spotwelds.
I think I would be sourcing another turret and either unpick the skin and plugweld it back on or cut and join it through the pillars.
have look at the pics of the roof, there was a ring of rusted metal with holes for about 70% of the perimeter, I cut through this to remove it. (it was about to come off by itself
also the spot welds holding in on are in the gutter, never find them
doubt it I would find another any better, very common fault
Edited by limo, 14 December 2012 - 07:58 PM.
#35
Posted 14 December 2012 - 08:00 PM
#36
Posted 14 December 2012 - 08:06 PM
#37
Posted 14 December 2012 - 08:07 PM


I used a LC roof to cut strips for backing and fill, same vintage metal, additive content and thickness
#38
Posted 14 December 2012 - 08:11 PM
Fibre glass if available would be my pick? Like early Landcruiser. Rivet on. Or, make a mold/mould using your old skin?
to buy $500
to make would need to repair mine enough to get full shape and then work out mounting flanges/tabs
I am practicing my welding and metal work, starting on my XU1 next
#39
Posted 14 December 2012 - 08:15 PM

#40
Posted 14 December 2012 - 08:19 PM
Just a thought about the roof, surely you could make a Torana roof skin fit? Might be a bit of cutting and welding, but you're going to have to do that anyway.
hers the roof repaired ready to weld back
I used a LC roof to cut strips for backing and fill, same vintage metal, additive content and thickness
Maybe I'm not so silly after all?
#41
Posted 14 December 2012 - 09:06 PM
Nup....................sorry..................you've won me with the repairs...............speshly cos your usin HOLDEN panel to fix it!
spose I should say it's from the same wreck I have been cutting up for about 4yrs before you pick on me again for cutting up Torans
#42
Posted 15 December 2012 - 08:36 PM
#43
Posted 17 December 2012 - 07:20 PM
it's tight and rigid


I have dressed the weld back and cleaned up, hardest part was the ridge that runs around the base
when I cut roof off I cut along this edge leaving a raised section so when the roof went back it rested inside, less couple of mm to weld
also this rim was missing in few places due to rust
could have ground it all off and welded to flat base but why do it wrong just be easy
bare metal

#44
Posted 17 December 2012 - 07:26 PM
It was only a toy Torana anyway.
actually it was an excellent car until a drag racer got it, (grandpa LC 4dr SL passed on to young lad, he tricked it up then moved on so drag guy got it)
only bit of rust was 50 cent piece size LH lower back quarter
gutted it, cut out dash, rear parcel shelf, section in front of windscreen
then welded up every hole in the shell
changed his mind and did same to a 2 dr and offered me the 4 dr $300
best bit I later found it had LSD and HQ front discs
Edited by limo, 17 December 2012 - 07:31 PM.
#45
Posted 17 December 2012 - 08:28 PM
#46
Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:37 PM
That's all history now limo, now its a rust repair supply.
yeah but useful, parts to Sydney, Perth, ACT, Adel for other forum members and what I have used
about 12 cars and counting so far
#47
Posted 19 December 2012 - 08:03 PM
#48
Posted 24 December 2012 - 08:06 PM
still good, 1/2 hr of stirring and sprays OK

also worked out front hub and disc rotor, fitted Ford Econovan Maxi 6 stud hub and with bit of machining should be able to use Pajero rotor and caliper
pics to follow
couple of dents to get to


had a win with the diff
bought a F100 8.8 diff couple of weeks back ($250 from wrecker) and have been looking for a LSD centre at the right price, best from USA
but needed to know spline size, 28 or 31 and I was checking today and it's a LSD
BARGAIN
Still have to take axles out to change stud pattern to 4WD 6 stud
#49
_stretchlc_
Posted 26 December 2012 - 07:18 PM
#50
Posted 26 December 2012 - 08:38 PM
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