If it wasnt for fords,most mechanics would have to close their doors.

Posted 17 January 2013 - 10:22 AM
If it wasnt for fords,most mechanics would have to close their doors.
Posted 17 January 2013 - 07:30 PM
Good to hear... I'll have to drop in next time I'm in the hills...
Posted 17 January 2013 - 09:43 PM
Posted 04 February 2013 - 08:51 PM
Posted 25 February 2013 - 07:33 PM
did a bit more body work but the heat wasn't helpful
stripped the outside of the doors,
inside will be rust repair then wet rub to paint
first bit but more hidden under the door seal
thought it would be easier to cut full section out at the bottom and fold new piece to fit
welded and ground back
notice area along the edge that was hidden
messed around with the diff as well
need to remove the pinion shaft as shown, how ever the locking bolt was broken and the main pin section stayed in place
so had to drill and grind the broken pieces to get shaft out
the shaft out I can remove the axles so I can get them restudded for 6 stud pattern
this shaft had quite a lot of wear so replacing it
worked out the rear disk brakes for the diff as well
Ford ED brackets (modified) and calipers, this gives me a hand brake on the caliper. easier the internal shoes I thought
the disks are Nissan Pathfinder, vented 308 mm
pics once the axles come back with new studs, they are Pajero
Posted 17 March 2013 - 07:26 PM
work seems to getting slower, had to do a few jobs on my GTR that were annoying me
also a lot of work like brake brackets/rotors take time but don't show much done
tidied up bonnet ready to fit and paint
thought I would give the grill a bit of character, usually just all same colour as body
this door is waiting on bailey channel, the window reg was siezed with rust and glass jamming on bailey
bloody metal strip on bottom of glass came of so had to refit, good stuff sicaflex
going back together
the easiest door I have fitted, even thought it is quite heavy
Posted 31 March 2013 - 07:17 PM
going back together, 2 drs now and I fitted bonnet and grill to check alignment and gaps after my cutting/welding and panel bashing
good enough for a Bedford
then I started the bit I hate most, rubbing down with wet n dry
almost done, I will clean it off tomorrow, hope it's good and maybe paint
Posted 16 April 2013 - 08:22 PM
finally did some spraying, had to replace compressor motor
collected all left over silver colours and mixed to use as base coat and check finish on sat
then scuffed back wit 600 and painted with Sable Metallic
not real happy, 3 small runs to fix before I rub back and coat again then top with clear
not sure I like the colour now, only used it as was a wrong match supplied and been sitting on shelf for 4 yrs
thought it would be darker
options, paint roof white to contrast
black out around wheel arches
black out around door windows
SLR type stripe
GTR type bottom black out
happy with front brakes though
BEFORE
AFTER
still have work out connection to brake line
weight difference almost 5 k gm, before 21.6 after 16.7
Posted 02 June 2013 - 11:08 PM
finished olive harvest couple weeks back, built sheep race last week but still have to prune, spray weeds and plough
while running business
but managed bit on Bedford last week end and today
starting to look like truck again
Posted 09 July 2013 - 08:44 PM
I have a little problem with radiator,
looks OK from here, Ford V8 one I had laying around
not much clearance due to extra pulley grooves on injected motor, even with standard Holden 6 radiator there is not enough room for fan as it needs a spacer so blades don't hit bottom pulley
thinking of making fibreglass shroud ducting down with electric fans, can't put them behind the radiator as the power steer pump, air con and alternator will all be in way
Posted 09 July 2013 - 09:49 PM
I moved the engine back between the seats in the Bedford van I had - plenty of room then for a radiator - plus it gives better leg room in the cab
Posted 09 July 2013 - 10:28 PM
I moved the engine back between the seats in the Bedford van I had - plenty of room then for a radiator - plus it gives better leg room in the cab
looked at that but then need to mod engine cover and engine mounts
how far back?
how did you do the 2 side engine mounts?
reposition posts on cross member or extension bracket?
Posted 10 July 2013 - 06:50 AM
It was a small block chev and I just used a HQ engine crossmember and made up an adpater to bolt the crossmember to the frame from some 100x50 RHS - thats going from memory from 20 years ago. Moved it right back so the front of the engine was behind the front of the seats.
Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:47 PM
I think I have it figured
the engine mounts are welded at front of cross member and bend forward, they are a triangular post, wider at bottom
so if I cut them off and swap sides, put left on right etc
and weld at back of cross member they will lean back
then with the width of the crossmember and the leaning of mount it should move engine back about 180 mm
that should be plenty to fit stuff at front
the cross member for gear box has a selection of holes and I can just move that back to a suitable set
will get some pics on week end when I start
I am hoping I don't have to take motor and box out, just move side ways, not likely though
Posted 07 August 2013 - 10:07 PM
Just read your thread. Great work! Love the old bedfords.
Posted 07 September 2013 - 11:52 PM
great stuff, Bedfords are awesome, Im in the process of doing a cf beddie swb. Iplan on something like "yellow peril" or "easy roller" in regards to style of flares. Ill put a bed and fridge in mine, one or two sunroofs...
good job
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